Tig Advise

[jpsilvia]

Hello GJ!!

long time lurker here. I just picked up a Tig Machine, Everlast PowerTig 185 and Finally got some tungsten in and decided to lay down some beads.

For some background, i have done O/A before many moons ago in H/S, and i have a Buzz Box, and a Mig welder, that im not super proficient in, but i try to make do.

this is on a scrap 3/16 thick coupon, using 3/32 filler, and 15ish CFM argon, and 3/32 2% lanthanated blue.
beads left to right in pic.

First bead i know was WAYY to hot, ran at 90amps (still using torch switch)
2nd i turned it down to 80
3rd i went down to 75ish amps I believe im traveling to slow, because its getting cherry red. then i dipped tungsten.

last bead was at 60 amps



any advise, tips or tricks?

Thanks!!

 

[dr_clyde]

Did you cool the metal between passes? The base metal temperature has a big effect on the input heat.

I would get some more scrap and try running longer beads. Consistency and timing are all important factors in getting a good looking weld. Just focus on keeping your torch and filler angle consistent, dips even and watch the edges.

 

[doojus]

If you follow the 1 amp per 1 thousandth rule, you need 185 amps for 3/16. Obviously we don't strictly adhere to the rule, but it's a good average, so you need more than 90 amps. If you're burning a 3/16 piece with 90 amps you're moving way too slow.

My advice would be to use more amperage but travel faster. Also use the pedal, you need more amperage at the start of the bead and less at the end as the work piece heats up, so you can't really do that with a switch unless you set up some fancy downramps on the welder's settings.




Other advice:

1) Prop your torch hand if you arent
2) Try some fillet or lap welds instead of just laying a bead on a piece of metal. That'll help you get into the habit of running straight beads
3) Try just doing an autogenous weld where you don't add any filler. Just get a puddle going and then step across your work piece. That'll let you get the torch movement down without worrying about filler

 

[yaidunno]

1) Prop your torch hand if you arent

^This^

If you welded that in the vise, you are already setting yourself up for shaky looking welds.

Take your time with it. Establish your initial puddle and vary your amps as needed from there. Your in control of 100% of the weld with TIG, so use that to your advantage. Where and when to add filler will take time to get accustomed to, so keep on practicing.

 

[Thumper68]

I'm in the same boat, I fired up the new tig last weekend and am so glad that I have been gas welding for most of my life, the motion is the same for the most part so I am mostly relearning settings and puddle control along with getting used to the peddle.

I need to pick up bunch of coupon material, all 3 kids want to learn as well.

 

[jpsilvia]

Did you cool the metal between passes? The base metal temperature has a big effect on the input heat.

I would get some more scrap and try running longer beads. Consistency and timing are all important factors in getting a good looking weld. Just focus on keeping your torch and filler angle consistent, dips even and watch the edges.

Honestly i dont think i let it cool off enough before attempting another bead

If you follow the 1 amp per 1 thousandth rule, you need 185 amps for 3/16. Obviously we don't strictly adhere to the rule, but it's a good average, so you need more than 90 amps. If you're burning a 3/16 piece with 90 amps you're moving way too slow.

My advice would be to use more amperage but travel faster. Also use the pedal, you need more amperage at the start of the bead and less at the end as the work piece heats up, so you can't really do that with a switch unless you set up some fancy downramps on the welder's settings.




Other advice:

1) Prop your torch hand if you arent
2) Try some fillet or lap welds instead of just laying a bead on a piece of metal. That'll help you get into the habit of running straight beads
3) Try just doing an autogenous weld where you don't add any filler. Just get a puddle going and then step across your work piece. That'll let you get the torch movement down without worrying about filler

Apologies, the material was 1/8 not 3/16. also i was standing when i did those, and i did have my torch hand propped on an adjacent table.

^This^

If you welded that in the vise, you are already setting yourself up for shaky looking welds.

Take your time with it. Establish your initial puddle and vary your amps as needed from there. Your in control of 100% of the weld with TIG, so use that to your advantage. Where and when to add filler will take time to get accustomed to, so keep on practicing.

Thanks!
i will try to set it up on a table so that i can weld from a seated position and try using the foot pedal

I'm in the same boat, I fired up the new tig last weekend and am so glad that I have been gas welding for most of my life, the motion is the same for the most part so I am mostly relearning settings and puddle control along with getting used to the peddle.

I need to pick up bunch of coupon material, all 3 kids want to learn as well.

Its been quite some time since i have done O/A, other then brazing some copper, aggreed about the motion, i feel i just need to get back into the groove.

Thanks for all the advise guys!!
i will try to run some longer beads and make some joins this evening and post results.

 

[doojus]

I run 160 amps on 1/8". It's all about travel speed.

Good video from Jody on the subject:

 

[jpsilvia]

I run 160 amps on 1/8". It's all about travel speed.

Good video from Jody on the subject:

that is a Great Video...Thanks for the Link!

 

[jpsilvia]

Made some more beads today...yea they were worse then the first time lol....Im just going to keep at it. But if anyone in the dfw area is open to help and or teach I'll be more then willing to compensate you for your time

Thanks!!

 

[WILD-BILL]

Did you opt for the upgrade pedal? I finally got one after having my 225 LX for a while and the control difference is amazing. Also, I highly suggest upgrade the ground clamp as the one supplied (if it's the same as what it was when I got mine) leaves a lot to be desired.

Both these upgrades made a vast improvement in the performance of my machine and my ability to control the puddel.

 

[DenisG]

Gotta ask. Are you using electrode negative or electrode positive?

 

[jpsilvia]

Did you opt for the upgrade pedal? I finally got one after having my 225 LX for a while and the control difference is amazing. Also, I highly suggest upgrade the ground clamp as the one supplied (if it's the same as what it was when I got mine) leaves a lot to be desired.

Both these upgrades made a vast improvement in the performance of my machine and my ability to control the puddel.

Yes i did get the foot pedal, i initially tried w/o to get a feel for the torch. yea agreed on the ground clamp, i will be upgrading it pretty soon.

Gotta ask. Are you using electrode negative or electrode positive?

Torch is on the neg side and ground clamp on pos side of the machine.

Thanks!

 

[doojus]

Yes i did get the foot pedal, i initially tried w/o to get a feel for the torch. yea agreed on the ground clamp, i will be upgrading it pretty soon.



Torch is on the neg side and ground clamp on pos side of the machine.

Thanks!

usaweld makes some good stuff for everlast welders. I've purchased regulator/tig torches/ground clamps from them for mine.

You'll notice a big difference in your bead stability with these lighter torches.

http://www.usaweld.com/Everlast-TIG-Torches-s/601.htm

 

[jpsilvia]

usaweld makes some good stuff for everlast welders. I've purchased regulator/tig torches/ground clamps from them for mine.

You'll notice a big difference in your bead stability with these lighter torches.

http://www.usaweld.com/Everlast-TIG-Torches-s/601.htm

Thanks! ill take a look.

I forgot to mention that im using the #4 Cup that came with the unit, i have a #6 and #7 coming in today, (this may be a really stupid question) what effect does that have?

 

[WILD-BILL]

Honestly, all I use is a WP 20 torch with a short Pyrex gas lense.

 

[shawnspeed]

X2 on the gas lens...your beads actually look cold , exept for the 1st one...what does the backside look like...you should see some of the puddle droop...