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Tig welding aluminum

Goat Driver

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Jan 7, 2015
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Lots of problems in all these photos, but in general the amps are too low for the cold aluminum. I'd have set peak amps to about 130 amps on those 1/8" pieces. Black sooty contamination in earlier photos looks like poor/no gas coverage. 1st weld photo shows insufficient cleaning setting. Any chance those first coupons were anodized aluminum? Are you running that machine on 120 or 240? You'll probably need 240 for any decent results on aluminum.

I'm no expert, in fact I'm a total noob at TIG and welding aluminum. But I was making decent aluminum welds within the first couple inches of my first try at both. I don't get why everyone thinks this is so difficult. I did have a fair amount of experience with an OA torch on steels before that though. To me, TIG technique seems almost just like welding with a gas torch. The right settings, preparation, and material are key. A foot pedal is mandatory, I think, for a beginner.

The last photo is best but still a ****** weld (no offense). Way too cold at the start. No penetration and little fusion with the base. Rod technique looks promising though once you get the heat figured out. Cleaning setting looks a bit too much but not that far off.
It didn't start working till near the end once the metal got warmed up. Aluminum ***** a lot of heat when it's cold. Gotta pump up the amps and get it hot much quicker, then ease off on the pedal / move faster as it progresses. No point continuing with the bead if you don't get a good puddle going at the start.

One other point--vision. You've really got to have a good sharp view of the puddle area. Maintaining the correct puddle in aluminum requires constant adjustment and if you can't see it clearly you can't adjust. You need a helmet with adjustable shade to get the best contrast. Since I'm an old fart with poor vision, I had to put a cheater lens in my helmet to get a sharp view. And I've got to get my face right down in there close to the work.


^^^^^Read what Gerald posted^^^^^



TIG was not that hard for me, maybe because for 3 years (about 30 years ago) I worked in a factory O/A brazing copper and brass connections on A/C, Heating and drink machine coils.

Watch the puddle and use the pedal, like Gerald said, until you get better at it.

I don't think it has so much to do with the type of aluminum that you are using. I have TIG welded everything from new 6061, 6063, 6351, cast aluminum crankcases, timing chain covers, aluminum screen door frames and even aluminum cook pots with decent results. The aluminum that you get at the "big box" stores is not some "alien" type of aluminum as some have noted. I have used aluminum angle and sheet aluminum from the "big box" stores with good success. Aluminum must be clean, don't use the same wire brush for your aluminum as you do for steel..get a dedicated stainless wire brush for cleaning the aluminum and use it only for that purpose.

I am by no means a pro welder but I do a little bit of aluminum TIG, 2-3 times a month..... some of my aluminum welding projects....

19MWinters1436_Feb_2013_zps9762b71b.jpg


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IMG_6228_Boat_Repair-copy_zpse76751b1.jpg

IMG_1131-Copy_zps80b949d2.jpg
 
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OP
A

Aquaticbob

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Really appreciate the tips both! I do need to plug into the 240 outlet I've got to get more amps out of it. I was welding on 120 amps on the sheet. It really does take all the power to get it to puddle up, and I can sometimes lack in patience. I'll be playing around with the settings a bit more, I think I need to get that taken care of first. Hoping I'll get some TIG practice time in soon, been busy with quite a few other things.
 

buildyourown

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If you want to practice with an underpowered torch, just preheat your material. Use a propane torch until it's too hot to touch.
 

Grinder Bill

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Not to hijack, but his thread has inspired me to switch to AC and give it a try again. However. it's also raised a question that applies to the OP's learning curve... I did alright welding a length of 1" round to 1/4" plate aluminum by cranking the amps to max (200A Miller) and upping the gas to 20scfm, using 3/32" 2% thoriated. No problem...

The question is about the torch. It's a Weldcraft WP17, which has been bought out and replaced by the Miller A150. The specs off the Miller website say its good for 150A DC and 105A AC.

105A AC isn't going to work for me, and, I suspect, the OP either. What are the issues associated with using a torch rated for 100A in 200A service? I doubt there's an electrical safety concern, probably more like thermal breakdown of the plastics, but it doesn't hurt to ask...

The next torch up is the Miller A200, but it's only rated for 150A AC. Can anyone recommend a better torch that's rated 200A AC?
 

mike13u

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Not to hijack, but his thread has inspired me to switch to AC and give it a try again. However. it's also raised a question that applies to the OP's learning curve... I did alright welding a length of 1" round to 1/4" plate aluminum by cranking the amps to max (200A Miller) and upping the gas to 20scfm, using 3/32" 2% thoriated. No problem...

The question is about the torch. It's a Weldcraft WP17, which has been bought out and replaced by the Miller A150. The specs off the Miller website say its good for 150A DC and 105A AC.

105A AC isn't going to work for me, and, I suspect, the OP either. What are the issues associated with using a torch rated for 100A in 200A service? I doubt there's an electrical safety concern, probably more like thermal breakdown of the plastics, but it doesn't hurt to ask...

The next torch up is the Miller A200, but it's only rated for 150A AC. Can anyone recommend a better torch that's rated 200A AC?

No issues if you run less than 150/105A on your 200amp machine. Higher amperage could burn the torch components. If you want to run more amperage, the torch you seek is the WP-26. That's if you want to stay Weldcraft. If you want to go with a CK, it is the CK-210. Both are air-cooled, 200amp, standard head torches.
 

Grinder Bill

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No issues if you run less than 150/105A on your 200amp machine. Higher amperage could burn the torch components. If you want to run more amperage, the torch you seek is the WP-26. That's if you want to stay Weldcraft. If you want to go with a CK, it is the CK-210. Both are air-cooled, 200amp, standard head torches.

Thanks for the lead on the CK-210; it's rated 200A DC&AC. I'll be sourcing one out.
http://www.ckworldwide.com/200-amps-ck210.html

The Weldcraft WP-26 has been re-branded as the Miller A-200: rated 200A DC & 150A AC.
https://www.millerwelds.com/pdf/spec_sheets/AY24-0.pdf
 
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I just had a thought about what you said about regrinding the tungsten, I used to be partners with a old Navy weldor. He always struck a arc on a piece of copper with the tungsten to ball it from what I remember on aluminum, I could be wrong as it was over 20 years ago! But I know that the tungsten tip is different between steel and aluminum.
 

dr_clyde

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I just had a thought about what you said about regrinding the tungsten, I used to be partners with a old Navy weldor. He always struck a arc on a piece of copper with the tungsten to ball it from what I remember on aluminum, I could be wrong as it was over 20 years ago! But I know that the tungsten tip is different between steel and aluminum.

This was much more common back in those days, especially with sine wave welders. In all honesty, it really doesn't matter what shape your tungsten point is. Just about anything will make a weld, and as long as the electrode isn't contaminated, it will work fine for most things. When it starts to matter a little more is on super thin or delicate welds.

The old sine wave machines don't have any sort of balance or frequency controls, so the tungsten would naturally ball up on the EP side of the arc. Balling up the tungsten just sped up the process.

On square wave machines, the ability to adjust balance made this less prevalent, but still the tungsten will take whatever shape the current dictates. If you have more amperage than the tip can handle, it will melt and ball up.

On inverter welders, you can weld AC with a pointed electrode, and it will stay pointed, depending on settings.
 

t100

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with the inverter machine, you grind the tungsten to a blunt point, and the DCEP part of the process will will ball up the tip, the only difference is the size of the ball is determined by the current.

again, don't use pure tungsten on the inverters.
 
Joined
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This was much more common back in those days, especially with sine wave welders. In all honesty, it really doesn't matter what shape your tungsten point is. Just about anything will make a weld, and as long as the electrode isn't contaminated, it will work fine for most things. When it starts to matter a little more is on super thin or delicate welds.

The old sine wave machines don't have any sort of balance or frequency controls, so the tungsten would naturally ball up on the EP side of the arc. Balling up the tungsten just sped up the process.

On square wave machines, the ability to adjust balance made this less prevalent, but still the tungsten will take whatever shape the current dictates. If you have more amperage than the tip can handle, it will melt and ball up.

On inverter welders, you can weld AC with a pointed electrode, and it will stay pointed, depending on settings.

Then maybe the OP is having trouble by using the wrong tungsten or is grinding it with something that is contaminating it?
 

sailah

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Not to hijack, but his thread has inspired me to switch to AC and give it a try again. However. it's also raised a question that applies to the OP's learning curve... I did alright welding a length of 1" round to 1/4" plate aluminum by cranking the amps to max (200A Miller) and upping the gas to 20scfm, using 3/32" 2% thoriated. No problem...

The question is about the torch. It's a Weldcraft WP17, which has been bought out and replaced by the Miller A150. The specs off the Miller website say its good for 150A DC and 105A AC.

105A AC isn't going to work for me, and, I suspect, the OP either. What are the issues associated with using a torch rated for 100A in 200A service? I doubt there's an electrical safety concern, probably more like thermal breakdown of the plastics, but it doesn't hurt to ask...

The next torch up is the Miller A200, but it's only rated for 150A AC. Can anyone recommend a better torch that's rated 200A AC?

I use a wp9 on AC up to about 130a and it's fine. My 17 air cooled does fine up to 150a AC but that's for short enough welds like a hobbyist would do. I only use a 26 on big jobs. I also run gas lenses really saves on argon and helps shielding.
 

sailah

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I just had a thought about what you said about regrinding the tungsten, I used to be partners with a old Navy weldor. He always struck a arc on a piece of copper with the tungsten to ball it from what I remember on aluminum, I could be wrong as it was over 20 years ago! But I know that the tungsten tip is different between steel and aluminum.

If you want to quick ball a pure tungsten electrode, set the machine to DC+ 35amps and hit the pedal holding the tungsten over steel copper whatever as long as it's grounded. It'll ball up quickly and predictably to when you can easily adjust the ball size.

Flip back to AC, adjust your amps and weld.
 
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Aquaticbob

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https://vimeo.com/122870200
cb4b0bac8b9e624a3adebece82c734d6.jpg


To bump an old thread, I've finally gotten a moment to sit down with the TIG and get a little practice in. So with the above video, this is the sound I'm getting regardless of where I set my settings it seems. Those are the settings I used in the video that are in the picture. I was at 115 amps (best I can do on 120v, my 220 is currently occupied). I need some help figuring out that sound and what it means. I cleaned the ever living daylight out of the aluminum. Brushed it real good with SS brush only for aluminum and cleaned with acetone until it wiped clean. 2% lanthanated 3/32" tungsten ground to a point with 1/8" stick out. Argon at 18 cfh

Tl;dr watch video and help me figure out what to do to make welding better on aluminum. 115 amps, view picture for other settings

Ps: **** iphone video filmed in vertical mode. You have been warned
 
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