To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Tig welding with Silicon Bronze rod

spv

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 6, 2010
Messages
301
I am currently doing a resto on a car from the 70's. I have a few small holes and surface blemishes that I am cleaning up and need to fill. I am thinking of using some Silicon Bronze to do the job. I think the risk of blowing a hole using standard mild steel filler is too great. The lower heat for Silicon Bronze might be the go. I will be hand filing and sanding afterwards to get a perfect finish. One goal of this resto is to avoid using all non-metal filler, including plastic/metal filler mixes. I also want to avoid Lead Solder if possible.

Any experience Tig welding Silicon Bronze for this purpose?
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

hotrodmetalgarage

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 18, 2010
Messages
80
Location
Western Illinois
I would use mild steel, and metal finish it. Just avoid putting too much heat into the piece.

You could use lead. Make sure you tin it right. It does take a lot more time, that is why Bondo replaced it. quick & easy. It doesn't mean bondo is nescessarily bad, but it depends on the car/application.

I wouldn't use silicon bronze for this. I have tig welded with it for some other applications, but it wouldn't be my first choice for what you have in mind.
 
Joined
Nov 21, 2007
Messages
613
We have run miles of both tig and mig on galvanized. It works well. I used it so I could to jack up the inches of weld per minute that our robots could lay down. Basically the part would be all mig welded then we would wrap the corners with a tig. It was used on a military application and they did the testing and had no issues with the process.
 

rdawson

Member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
7
I have used a lot of the Silicon Bronze and it works well. It should be OK for what you want to do but I wouldn't think you would have any problem using mild steel. That would be my first choice and using a heat sink would help.
 
OP
S

spv

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 6, 2010
Messages
301
I have used mild steel on the panel. I am concerned about holes as noted and in other repair areas warpage (I neglected to mention this). I have looked into the copper backing previously, but could not locate any vendors that sell this. All I could find was thin sheet, but nothing resembling a heat-sink. Additionally, the panel already has a small amount of bronze on it from a previous repair.

Is there any distinct reason why one should not use bronze in this manner? I see the "No" responses but nothing really stating why it is a "No". The area of concern is not structural, I do not want to put much heat into it, it seems like the logical choice?
 

rdawson

Member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
7
There's no distinct reason I would advise against it. It has been sometime since I've used any but I do seem to remenber it would become fairly hard on certain base metals. I'm an old retired aircraft welder so may have forgotten half of what I knew. If you wanted to make a copper heat sink flatten a peice of copper tubing. It wouldn't be very big but might work for what you have in mind.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

OccupantRJ

Well-known member
Joined
May 15, 2009
Messages
10,906
Location
Eastern North Carolina
I used the rod to weld up holes in my 40 Ford pickup. It worked quite well for me, using a simple portable tig setup on a Craftsman AC/DC welder. It has somewhat of a putty state during welding, which I felt worked well for filling holes. Cut a large copper plumbing fitting into pieces and flatten for a heat sink backer, if you feel you need one. I didn't even do that.
 

SWT Racing

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 13, 2009
Messages
137
Location
South Carolina
I would use mild steel, and metal finish it. Just avoid putting too much heat into the piece.

I would agree. I don't think helibrazing would be ideal for filling holes, but I've never tried it. Even though you are using lower heat, you may have to dwell at the area longer to wet out the Silicon Bronze, which may cause problems. Also, if you need to actually weld later, you will have to grind out all the Silicon Bronze.

What holes and/or "blemishes" are you trying to fill? Where are they located? Are these body moulding holes, accessory holes (such as on a firewall) or rust pin holes? Any pics?:bounce:
 

mike13u

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 1, 2008
Messages
616
Location
S.Florida
I have looked into the copper backing previously, but could not locate any vendors that sell this. All I could find was thin sheet, but nothing resembling a heat-sink.

Thats all your looking for with the backing, copper sheet. Just hit eBay
 

welder4956

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 8, 2010
Messages
3,053
Location
Birmingham, AL USA
I have used silicon bronze on a fender repair and thought it worked very well and was much easier to control from blowing through than steel filler. It does not take much current to establish a puddle, maybe 30-40 amps and it flows well on the steel. Here's some photos of a fuel filler opening I patched with it.

P4160026.jpg


P4160027.jpg


P4160028.jpg
 

UncleDirty

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 19, 2006
Messages
103
Location
Riverside Ca
Back in 1981 I wanted to fill the trim holes on my lowered VW, my high school metal shop teacher told me to TIG braze them using silicon bronze rod. I did and it worked great. :thumbup:
I have TIG brazed alot of holes since then, has always worked well for me.
 

Beaumont67

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 10, 2011
Messages
526
Location
St. Thomas, Ontario
This is a great information thread / with options shared:

Re Quote...
I am currently doing a resto on a car from the 70's.

Love to see a PHOTO, of the car in restoration !!
 

Frank The Plumber

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 19, 2011
Messages
2,644
Location
Chicago.
If you are going to roll the work the silicon bronze will most likely crack. Use the mild steel and the heat sink backer as these guys recommend. If you are having troubles you just need more practice at lower output.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom