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Tiling a backsplash in kitchen

gygeneral

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I know its not a garage related question but I'm going to try and install subway tile on my kitchen backsplash. Question I have is that do you put anything on the drywall before cementing the tile or do you simply cement right over the drywall itself.

Thanks for the help
 
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rustyjames

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Since it's not a wet area you can use mastic which is much easier than using thinset. Priming isn't necessary on raw drywall, but if there's joint compound on it I would prime it. Even then it's probably not necessary.
 

Jinks

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We used a mastic & tilled right over painted drywall several years ago. No problems.

We also do the same thing to the bottom of cabinets under sinks. On the rare occasions there's a leak tile holds up better........:dunno:
 
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scottydosnntkno

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For a backsplash there’s zero benefit to using backer board like suggested above. It’s not a wet space, or a high traffic space (how often do you actually touch the backsplash? Just to clean it)

If it’s raw drywall, prime it. If it’s existing painted drywall your good to go. You can use “mastic” which is what everyone calls it but really it’s acrylic tile adhesive these days. The term mastic is wayyyy outdated. It’s not actually mastic anymore and hasn’t been in years.

It’s basically premised adhesive in a bucket, vs having to mix a bag of this set yourself.

Functionally there will be no difference between the finish installation of both. Thinset will be a little bit stronger, but again it’s not a high traffic area
 
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gygeneral

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ok thanks

Looks like if I primer the area then tile over that , its ok

That's what I wanted to know, i will look at those reference websites mentioned

Many thanks
 

usa#1

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If you are tiling around the sink area, I would coat the drywall in that area with red guard or similar product to waterproof the drywall.
 

TLGriff

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Read the directions on the mastic you intend to use. The stuff I used was intended for bare drywall. If it was painted, it needed to be roughed up with sandpaper before application.

Tom
 

yeldogt

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For a backsplash you can tile to the drywall -- it's not a wet surface.
 

CarBikeGuy70

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If you use Red Guard over your drywall you will have issues with the "mastic". A modified product - one that cures by a chemical reaction rather than by evaporation must be used.
Most tile adhesives are water based and thus will have drying issues when applied over a membrane of any nature. A modified thinset will work over the Red Guard but in a back splash it is overkill. Just a FYI- grout seals the tile joints from moisture, it is not intended to hold anything together. Space first course of tile up from the counter with some pennies. Then use a non sanded (for gap of 1/4 or less) caulking ( found in tile dept. ) to seal the gap. Caulking is used for any angled joint.
 

JRC3

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No need for any Red Guard, even in wet areas there are way better ways to do it properly. To me, Red Guard is just one step above bare drywall.

And no need for any type of backer other than drywall on a kitchen backslash. I've never had a single problem using either mastic or thinset on bare drywall. Painted surfaces too, just clean all dirt, oil or grease off. If it's glossy it will need to be scuffed and then cleaned.

Be sure to also grout where it meets the counter top and any inside corners, then once cured, apply a thin layer of clear silicone over the grout. Not only does this seal the corner, but it also keeps the grout from cracking and flaking out, and it will over time. It also looks best because the grout color is more consistent. The only exception to clear is when white or bisque matches the grout or countertop. Don't be sold by the color matching caulks and silicon the manufacturer markets, there is a use for them but it's not here and the results will be best without them.


How do you plan to transition from the tile to painted walls, like anywhere the tiles does terminate into a wall cabinet, door/window casing or backslash? Burnoose is probably easiest but something like Schluter Edge can be used if no bullnose is available, or if you prefer the cleaner look.
 
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gygeneral

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How do you plan to transition from the tile to painted walls, like anywhere the tiles does terminate into a wall cabinet, door/window casing or backslash? Burnoose is probably easiest but something like Schluter Edge can be used if no bullnose is available, or if you prefer the cleaner look.

I would like to use as you said a Schluter type edge. It will go from counter top to the ceiling so about 5ft.
Another question that just poped up is, do you tile first then install the range hood and shelves or do you install these and tile around them. I attached of the area in question. So you can see where the floating shelves are going to be on iether side of the range hood. The left side will **** up to some cupboards and the right side will be the Schluter edge.
 

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Justind97

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I would like to use as you said a Schluter type edge. It will go from counter top to the ceiling so about 5ft.
Another question that just poped up is, do you tile first then install the range hood and shelves or do you install these and tile around them. I attached of the area in question. So you can see where the floating shelves are going to be on iether side of the range hood. The left side will **** up to some cupboards and the right side will be the Schluter edge.

You're looking for a tile edge. You can find that at Home depot, lowes or any time supply place.

For the range, depends on your installation of the hood range and if you have tools to drill and cut the tiles.
Personally, I have the exhaust cut in the wall, tile first, then anchor through the tiles and hang the range. Silicone and seal up the sides against the tile.
 
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gygeneral

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I was thinking of tiling first then hang the hood on top of the tile for the simple reason if I ever have to replace that hood it would be possible. The kids bought an Ikea hood and for the price they paid versus what you can get at a big box store I'm wondering how good it will be. I don't have any experience with their hoods
 

ddawg16

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I tiled my backsplash a couple of years ago...

I used thinset on top of primer'd drywall....I already had the thinset...

As some noted above, don't worry about water. Those tiles are not going to have standing water on them. The only place water will get in is through the grout....and you're going to apply grout sealer when your done.....right?

One big suggestion....don't grout the edge between the counter and bottom tiles. Fill the bottom row with silicon caulk....the counter top will move ever so slightly in relation to the wall....and any grout between the counter and tile will crack.

This is my backsplash
 

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gygeneral

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JRC3

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The shelves you could either install the shelf and then tile up to it, or tile around the 3/4 and install the shelf when done. The grout around the 3/4 and it will stiffen it up rock solid. I would do the latter.

On the hood I would do the exact same thing, tile first. I would install some blocking behind the drywall where the hood screws will go.

Don't worry about the tile cracking, once set and cured it will be rock solid and support all that better than plain drywall. There will be three layers there- the drywall, thinset/mastic and then the tile. Just like plywood it becomes stronger being laminated. Big frameless shower doors are fully suspended by the wall with the tile sandwiched between the door hinge, that range hood isn't even close to that weight. And it's stationary.

Here are a some doors I've done where huge glass doors are done this way about 10, 8 and about 5 years ago and all these pics were taken this year. They are customers of mine whose homes I frequent. I always inspect my past work. I also did the exact same at my best friend's house about 10 years ago. Believe me, his wife would let me know if there was a problem.

Sorry, the hinge pics were taken of close up details, but you can see the tempered glass thickness and how the hinges contact the tile. Those hinges are fully supporting the full length 30" shower door. There's a pedestal sink in there too. I also do the same with shower grab bars. Everything gets blocking/studding in the wall behind drywall or tile backer.

My point is, don't worry about hanging any of that on the tile. I wouldn't bat an eye.
 

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gygeneral

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Sounds like I'm in good shape. Those 3/4 bars are welded to flat stock and those are lagged to a stud. Overkill I know, but she wants to put heavy dishes on them. As far as the hood I did put blocking behind the drywall to fasten to.

So I think it will be tile first then hang the stuff.

Many thanks :beer:
 

TLCObsession

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Tile first. I had a vent hood die 1 year after installing it. Couldn't find a motor (Chinese made) or a unit with the same profile, so I had to find enough tile to patch in so the new hood looked right.
 

JRC3

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I would probably put some one-sided foam tape behind the mounting flanges on that hood. First for vibration and rattle...Next to prevent drafting which might leave grease and/or dust accumulation where they meet.

Tile first. I had a vent hood die 1 year after installing it. Couldn't find a motor (Chinese made) or a unit with the same profile, so I had to find enough tile to patch in so the new hood looked right.
Yet another reason. When I do complete bathrooms I always tile under the vanity before I install it. Not only is it easier, but it makes updates easier too.
 

JRC3

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I used mussel bound membrane for kitchen and powder room backsplash. Very easy to install, and no issues after five years of use.
http://www.musselbound.com

Let's see what it does in 20, 50. Also, I wouldn't mount anything over something spongy like that. The best you could do is really work the grout in to adhere the tile to the backer. "The best!"

Stuff like that is cute on those flipper and DIY TV shows...That's it, that's my only accolade.
 

JRC3

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probably aimed to the DIY market , I wonder how easy it is to adjust tile after its placed?
Yeah, it's adjustable, I let my brother use it when we did one of his bathrooms. That "adjustability" comes with a price...Like I said, it's spongy, so it moves when you squeegee and sponge the grout. Luckily we only used it on the accent tiles above the wet area in his shower.
 

Mikhail

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Let's see what it does in 20, 50. Also, I wouldn't mount anything over something spongy like that. The best you could do is really work the grout in to adhere the tile to the backer. "The best!"

Stuff like that is cute on those flipper and DIY TV shows...That's it, that's my only accolade.

In 20 years it would time to remodel again! I didn’t had any problems with installation at all.
 
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