Tilt-Up Framing - Max Wall Length

[DMurray]

Hi folks,

The design drawings for my new 26'x28' garage only show a single 2x6 top plate for the walls. I am taking this up with the designer because I think it will require me to put the trusses on 16" centres to meet code and therefore require several more trusses ($$).

I also see a single top plate causing a problem because I assume that a 28' wall is too long and heavy to build on the ground and tilt into place. I would think the framers would build two sections and use a second top plate to tie them together. Am I wrong in this?

Thanks

 

[joe--h]

What is the stud spacing?

 

[DMurray]

What is the stud spacing?

According to the drawing, 2x6 stud spacing is 16" OC.

 

[Hpozzuoli]

Once the walls are all up on that level you put the second plate on so you can tie all the walls together.

 

[firebirdparts]

I see that as really dumb. You're going to save $20? Why would anybody do that? just refuse.

 

[Yankeefarmer]

My 48’ long rear wall was framed flat and tilted up as one piece.

 

[Innovate1]

How tall are the walls? Mine are 14' high and 2 x 6 and the largest sections were 20'. They were raised by hand. Shorter height would allow longer and wall jacks or other techniques could also be used for longer/taller walls.

Only way you should do a single top plate is if the studs and trusses align. That usually means 24" wall stud spacing. Which local code may or may not allow. Double top plate makes it easy to tie the corners together and wall sections if they do any sides in multiple sections.

 

[DMurray]

Walls are 9 feet. I will insist that he add a second top plate to the design. Local code doesn't permit 24" wall stud spacing and I don't want to pay for the extra trusses to make them line up with 16" OC studs.

I don't know why he would have designed it this way in the first place. I think maybe he knows AutoCad quite well, but doesn't know much about framing carpentry.

I will have to cut down the wall studs by 1.5" because the roof peak was already at the max allowable height of 14.8 feet. I was going to have to cut them down anyway because the sill plate is on a grade beam 6" higher than the floor slab.

 

[theoldwizard1]

My 48’ long rear wall was framed flat and tilted up as one piece.

How many people lifting ?

One person with 4 wall jacks could probably do it. If it was also sheathed, it might take more wall jacks.

 

[Kaizen]

Walls are 9 feet. I will insist that he add a second top plate to the design. Local code doesn't permit 24" wall stud spacing and I don't want to pay for the extra trusses to make them line up with 16" OC studs.

I don't know why he would have designed it this way in the first place. I think maybe he knows AutoCad quite well, but doesn't know much about framing carpentry.

I will have to cut down the wall studs by 1.5" because the roof peak was already at the max allowable height of 14.8 feet. I was going to have to cut them down anyway because the sill plate is on a grade beam 6" higher than the floor slab.

Trusses don’t need to line up with wall studs on double top plate. Walls 16 on center and roof 24.


Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal

 

[nadogail]

To raise a big barn, you need a big crew.

 

[Yankeefarmer]

How many people lifting ?

One person with 4 wall jacks could probably do it. If it was also sheathed, it might take more wall jacks.

I don’t recall if it was one or two guys the day that wall went up. There was a Lull telehandler involved .

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

I will have to cut down the wall studs by 1.5" because the roof peak was already at the max allowable height of 14.8 feet. I was going to have to cut them down anyway because the sill plate is on a grade beam 6" higher than the floor slab.

Where are they taking the 14.8' measurement from? In my neck of the woods, it's taken from exterior grade.

A single top plate is ridiculous, he should know better. Be sure to bridge the 'layout plate' break with the top plate for maximum wall rigidity...4' minimum.
Cut your 'layout plate' to break on a stud, rather than having to add an extra $tud under the break.

 

[CraigStu]

Is it possible that a 2nd top plate is so standard that they don't show it in the drawings. I just looked at the pdf of the drawings for our 1.5 yr old house and there are no side views of walls framing. Maybe the printed drawings that the framers used have them, I don't know. There are several variations of crosshatch on portions of the walls and a chart saying what they mean, usually for bracing standards.

 

[spudley]

Maybe your "designer" skipped the double top to save you that 1.5" you need to cut for you height restriction?

 

[Zmann]

you give him too much credit
That "designer" would have no clue what a standard stud length was IMO
let alone care if you had to cut the studs once or twice lol

 

[dcg9381]

I don't know that my drawings show a double top plate, but here it is totally standard.. I agree with insisting on one or getting clarification.

 

[Dumber than lumber]

You might look on Youtube. Search under Larry Haun.
Word is that he had techniques at which even seasoned were amazed.

 

[nmk_61802]

Where are they taking the 14.8' measurement from? In my neck of the woods, it's taken from exterior grade.

A single top plate is ridiculous, he should know better. Be sure to bridge the 'layout plate' break with the top plate for maximum wall rigidity...4' minimum.
Cut your 'layout plate' to break on a stud, rather than having to add an extra $tud under the break.

Also, make certain that the height isn't listed as "median", which means it is not the peak height, but half-way between the peak & eave. That is how my area zoning, and many others I have seen do it.

But some do limit to a maximum peak height, or to less than the primary structure.

Also, In my area I would have trouble finding 28' long boards that I didn't have to order for top and bottom plates to be one piece.

 

[jonshonda]

Top plate is a requirement. It is how you tie wall sections together. Either you are missing something, or the designer left out some details. I am guessing if they designer has been doing it for a while, you just aren't familiar with how drawings are done.

 

[kwb]

We stood my 42'x14' walls fully sheathed. Used a A-frame to start the wall "up" and a truck with a cable across the A-frame as the truck backed away from the building the line of the pull was enough to get it to vertical.

4 guys - one in truck. Two on kickers under the wall so it couldn't fall and the 4th running longer kickers in and managing the A-frame.

Have also done walljacks on fully sheathed wall 50' x 14'. Easiest was telehandler and also the smallest walls at 40x14.

 

[DMurray]

I went back to the designer about it. He said one of his junior guys did the drawings and the work was not checked before it was sent out. He apologized and added the second top plate to the drawing. He noticed a few other deficiencies while he was at it and fixed those too.

One of those deficiencies was that the roof pitch was not shown on the drawing so I assumed it was 4/12. The revised drawing shows a 5/12 pitch. Turns out that changes the way the max height is measured. For a 4/12 pitch, it's measured from exterior grade to the highest point. For anything steeper, it's measured to the mid-point between the eaves and peak.

Long story short, the error on the drawing turned out to be a blessing because now I don't have to cut the studs down to stay within the 14.8' height limit. I can use pre-cut 104 5/8" studs and also gain 7" in ceiling height!

Thanks again for the input.

 

[patterg2003]

I am pretty sure that the Edmonton or Alberta building codes would allow 2x6 studs at 24"o/c with of course a double top plate. Not much more expensive than 2x4's at 16"o/c. It would allow R20 insulation to be installed at the time of construction or down the road. R20 will make the garage easier to heat & lower heating costs. The difference in insulation costs would be paid back in the first winter of heating the space. I have a 28 x 32 garage that is 2x4's 8ft high. I am thinking or removing the garage next spring, reuse the trusses and install 2x6 x 10ft R20 walls with natural gas heat. 2x6 at 24" o/c is allowed here in Ontario for single storey home construction. I am 4 hours east of Winnipeg so we are in similar climate conditions.

 

[theoldwizard1]

We stood my 42'x14' walls fully sheathed. Used a A-frame to start the wall "up" and a truck with a cable across the A-frame as the truck backed away from the building the line of the pull was enough to get it to vertical.

That is one big wall and fully sheathed it weighted a ton. I probably would have used 2 A-frames.

One trick when use A-frames to lift something is to start with the A-frame on the OUTSIDE, standing at a minimum of 45° toward the item, and then attached to the item you are trying to lift. The forward pull on the top of the A-frame get transferred into a vertical lifting pull.

You may not be able to get the item fully vertical in one pull, so be ready to brace it half way up and reset the pulling cables !

 

[firebirdparts]

I went back to the designer about it. He said one of his junior guys did the drawings and the work was not checked before it was sent out. He apologized and added the second top plate to the drawing. He noticed a few other deficiencies while he was at it and fixed those too..

Good, I feel better now.

 

[scottydosnntkno]

Walls are 9 feet. I will insist that he add a second top plate to the design. Local code doesn't permit 24" wall stud spacing and I don't want to pay for the extra trusses to make them line up with 16" OC studs.

I don't know why he would have designed it this way in the first place. I think maybe he knows AutoCad quite well, but doesn't know much about framing carpentry.

I will have to cut down the wall studs by 1.5" because the roof peak was already at the max allowable height of 14.8 feet. I was going to have to cut them down anyway because the sill plate is on a grade beam 6" higher than the floor slab.

Just buy precut 9’ studs. Their already designed to allow a single bottom plate and double top plate. So they’re a perfect 104-5/8”. 106” - 5/8” ceiling drywall gives you 1/2” for flooring to get a perfect 9’ finish floor to finish ceiling height.

They’re also cheaper than regular 9’ 2xs because they’re shorter