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Time for a MULTIMETER

Brownsfan

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Apr 16, 2012
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Cleveland Ohio
What you pay for with the good meters like Flukes is that they have high resolution, high accuracy, don't drift, and maintain tight calibration requirements (out of 4 Fluke 87Vs, not one has ever come back being found out of cal, and we have very narrow ranges for all of the functions of the meter at work).

One thing to watch with some cheaper meters is that they don't actually have a real fuse in the ammeter section of the board - the cheap Craftsman meter I have in my car has a maximum measurement time of 10 seconds with the ammeter, or you'll burn components off the board and won't have an ammeter any more. It's 61010 compliant, sure, but that doesn't make me feel any better about measuring current without a fuse in the circuit.

This meter is sold in the Cornwell, Matco,and Mac catologs for a couple bucks more with one of the 3 above names on them. Yes my main meter is a Fluke but this one is VERY accurate and does not "float" at all. Once again Flukes are the BEST meters hands down, but I would not hesitate to use this one. I will say the leads it comes with **** and have been replaced with fluke leads
 
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5mall5nail5

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Bucks County, PA
I work in the aerospace industry. My work has agilent, HP, fluke, etc. I personally u se Ideal. My Ideal seems to be a near clone of a Fluke honestly.
 

BrokewrenchLS1

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WV
This meter is sold in the Cornwell, Matco,and Mac catologs for a couple bucks more with one of the 3 above names on them. Yes my main meter is a Fluke but this one is VERY accurate and does not "float" at all. Once again Flukes are the BEST meters hands down, but I would not hesitate to use this one. I will say the leads it comes with **** and have been replaced with fluke leads

Have you had it calibrated to make sure everything is in tolerance for AC, DC, impedance, etc? I don't have mine sent out for cal, but I do check all the functions against an in-cal multimeter to make sure the numbers are reasonably accurate. As long as AC and DC, and probably impedance, are good on a meter, it should work fine for regular troubleshooting and wiring jobs - can't complain if a $30 meter is good on those functions.

Just sort of curious, not really sure how many people actually get their multimeters calibrated for general use.
 

nanofrog

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Mar 1, 2012
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One thing to watch with some cheaper meters is that they don't actually have a real fuse in the ammeter section of the board - the cheap Craftsman meter I have in my car has a maximum measurement time of 10 seconds with the ammeter, or you'll burn components off the board and won't have an ammeter any more. It's 61010 compliant, sure, but that doesn't make me feel any better about measuring current without a fuse in the circuit.
Another thing to look for in a crappy meter along these lines are glass fuses.

If you're working with low voltage and low power circuits, it's possible to get away with a meter designed this way, but if there's high voltage or high power in the circuit being tested, then you need proper protection.

Such protections include using HRC fuses (High Rupture Capacity), which are white and typically larger diameter than their glass counterparts. So if it blows out, it doesn't blow up the meter (literally). It's actually possible to loose a hand or your life if this happens, so it's not something I consider an option on such circuits, and why better meters use them.
 

Larwyn

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Oct 10, 2011
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Texas
All this talk of fuses is valid unless you happen to be testing current transformer circuits. Those familiar with current transformers are well aware of the danger of opening a current circuit. Though we used lots of Flukes on the job, The Beckman meters were preferred for testing current circuits for the very reason that they did not include a fuse in the current circuit. The danger is that when you open the secondary of a current transformer the voltage will go "through the roof", easily exceeding the insulation value of the meter and leads. We did not want to introduce a device into the secondary of a 3000/5 current transformer on a 345,000 volt line that was designed to open that circuit. Any fuse is such a circuit is strictly taboo.

I only mention this to point out that there were (and hopefully still are) quality meters manufactured without fuses in the ammeter circuit for a very good reason. I have know substation techs to solder a bit of heavy copper in place of the fuse in meters used for load testing lines in electrical substations. Something to watch for if buying a used meter I suppose.
 
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magova1104

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Only fluke makes good and RELIABLE multimeters. You can find a good 73 for like $50 or a great 87 for $100-150 in ebay. They have LIFETIME WARRANTY. I don't know the warranty on other brands.
 

magova1104

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All this talk of fuses is valid unless you happen to be testing current transformer circuits. Those familiar with current transformers are well aware of the danger of opening a current circuit. Though we used lots of Flukes on the job, The Beckman meters were preferred for testing current circuits for the very reason that they did not include a fuse in the current circuit. The danger is that when you open the secondary of a current transformer the voltage will go "through the roof", easily exceeding the insulation value of the meter and leads. We did not want to introduce a device into the secondary of a 3000/5 current transformer on a 345,000 volt line that was designed to open that circuit. Any fuse is such a circuit is strictly taboo.

I only mention this to point out that there were (and hopefully still are) quality meters manufactured without fuses in the ammeter circuit for a very good reason. I have know substation techs to solder a bit of heavy copper in place of the fuse in meters used for load testing lines in electrical substations. Something to watch for if buying a used meter I suppose.

Wow! I didn't know that they still making Beckman meters! I use to had a 300 series back in 80's when I was in Electronics School. I also remember a good looking Tektronix and a classic Simpson analog that my teacher had. :thumbup:
 

otis66

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May 28, 2010
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May want to look at these


Interesting at the first couple minutes of these videos, stating that at certain price point, is that quality of build starts to get better.

I work industrial maintenance with electrical / electronic. I have Fluke meters, seems to be what most use in the industrial settings.

I would not hesitate to use the Extech, Amprobe, BK Precision, Ideal (reviewed in the videos) in industrial settings and would be very good meters for home use. I do own one BK Precision LCR meter and it seems to be very well built.
After watching this video I changed my mind. Get the Fluke 88V...You get what you pay for. Fluke 88V is worth the money.
 

nanofrog

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Mar 1, 2012
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1,323
All this talk of fuses is valid unless you happen to be testing current transformer circuits. Those familiar with current transformers are well aware of the danger of opening a current circuit...[snip]
True.

Though this particular situation isn't likely an issue for the OP, I never even thought about this particular case, as I was focused on the safety issues regarding the fuses used in inexpensive **** multimeters (or lack thereof on the absolute worst#. :eek:

Though we used lots of Flukes on the job, The Beckman meters were preferred for testing current circuits for the very reason that they did not include a fuse in the current circuit.
Off hand, I only recall this design in cheap meters I've seen lately.

Doesn't mean it doesn't exist, but I just can't think of one #Fluke, Agilent, Gossen's I recall the innards had HRC's for both mA and A ranges#. :headscrat

From what I can tell, it seems Beckman is out of the meter business. But there's always eBay.

Good recommendation to check a used meter for a bridged fuse just in case #physical inspection, not just run a self-test on fuses#.

Only fluke makes good and RELIABLE multimeters. You can find a good 73 for like $50 or a great 87 for $100-150 in ebay. They have LIFETIME WARRANTY. I don't know the warranty on other brands.
I have to disagree here.

Yes, there's plenty of **** out there. But there are other brands besides Fluke that do make reliable DMM's, such as Gossen #sold as Dranetz in the US#, Agilent, BK Precision, UEi, and a few others. And not all of them are as expensive as Fluke either. Though Fluke may win out on support if needed.

Another thing to consider, is that the Lifetime warranty has limits. 7 - 10 years to be exact #read the fine print on their site#. So if your meter dies say 20 years after you bought it, you're on your own. Either you're stuck paying for the repairs #assuming the parts exist), or you'd have to buy a new meter.

BTW, Gossen is one of the best brands out there, and some would even argue it's better than Fluke. :eyecrazy:
 
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