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Time for a new bench grinder me thinks

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BurtEggley

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no trolling please.

I have looked at quite a few grinders these last weeks. The Hercules is nice but at $199 plus $55 for a warranty and another $25 to pick up a good capacitor to replace the ones exploding and killing the grinders - that puts me close to $300. Too much. In the 2.1 amp range, they are mostly the same several model designs that look like they are made by the same company but with different paint colors and name plates that vary from $39 to $100. The Dewalt DW756 is nicer and has more power, but there are other units in that price range. Zoro has a 20% coupon good for a couple more weeks, and a nice Jet unit can be had to my door in 24 hours for about $275. Bucktool has 4 bolt mounts and my stand a 2 bolt mount, so I need to be sure it will fit without having to fabricate another stand or modify this one. They haven't given me the dimensions on theirs yet. Apparently "email us" doesn't work well and that turns me off when a company doesn't feel motivated to answer questions. Not sure what direction to go yet. Maybe just put new bearings in the old one and use the one side without a support on what I have now. I looked at shopfox too but there were too many people complaining about problems on those.
 
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BurtEggley

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So every cheap grinder seems to have issues, but buying a decent grinder is a waste of money. Got it.
why are you trolling? That is not what I wrote. I am not going to spend $750 - $1000 on a grinder, nor am I going to spend $200 on one that people are complaining blows up in their face after 100 days throwing oil all over the place. As to used, I don't control that. The for sale ads around here are full of grinders listed at $200 that are only $100 new right now at my door. Nor do I control a manufacturer getting back to me with the footprint dimensions of one of the grinders. Trolling me won't bring me any closer to a new grinder.
 
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four.cycle

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^ seems odd you can't find a good unit second-hand... the Craigslist "tool" listings here are always loaded with ads for grinders.... low-end/high-end, with stand/without stand.
 
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^ seems odd you can't find a good unit second-hand... the Craigslist "tool" listings here are always loaded with ads for grinders.... low-end/high-end, with stand/without stand.
yes, the ads here are full too. Fancy worded ads at $120 for a used dirty grinder that HF sells new for $89 90. Lots of that going on. As an example - your area has a used grizzly grinder for $85 in Lynnwood. Sounds good until one realizes that the same grinder new at Grizzly shipped free with a 2 year warranty is $99 minus 15% if I buy today. Why would I buy a used one when I can get a new one with a 2 year warranty for the same price? Vevor sells the same grinder but in orange for $39.99. HF sells the similar Bauer 6" for $39.99. If I wanted just another cheap grinder any of those might work. I would have placed an order for the Bucktool dual speed one already but I don't know if it will fit my stand, You do have lots of $20 - $40 used grinders. Those are lacking in this area. Those here are priced $60 - $80. Maybe in a month they may be back down to $20 - $40, who knows.
 
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BurtEggley

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Absolutely this.
see my response just before this post. I expected there would be a lot of reasonably priced used grinders - usually 30% - 50% of retail depending on condition unless something is valuable. Right now here most are priced 100% to 120% of retail, some 200%. I have no idea why. I went thru the same thing looking for a rototiller to replace one I sold. I could drive to Reno (250 miles each way) and buy a nice new one with warranty for $469. The same model used here people were asking $1200. Rusted out non-running hulks were being priced at $850. I eventually found a good like new one about 45 miles away for $250 but it took a while. It wasn't perfect but it wasn't beat to hell.
 

Mike007

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^ seems odd you can't find a good unit second-hand... the Craigslist "tool" listings here are always loaded with ads for grinders.... low-end/high-end, with stand/without stand.
It really varies by area. My local C/L is just dead. Nearly impossible to sell anything. The tool section is filled with ads from guys buying abandoned storage units and listing the tools, usually for way more then they're worth. It's too bad. It was great once.
 

liliysdad

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It really varies by area. My local C/L is just dead. Nearly impossible to sell anything. The tool section is filled with ads from guys buying abandoned storage units and listing the tools, usually for way more then they're worth. It's too bad. It was great once.


That’s because no one uses Craigslist. Facebook Marketplace took that from them a long time ago, and the reach is far superior.
 

tarbellb

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Have you looked at Dayton / Grainger?
Plenty of options in speed, HP, and features

ex A $236

might even be able to pick up and avoid shipping

1768458770641.jpeg



oh and don't mind the chatter about buying used, it sends some of these guys into full melt down
 
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BurtEggley

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Thanks - yes I was looking at dayton on Zoro but the ratings are rather low from users that I could find. I was about to pull the trigger on one until I read the reviews.

Bucktool sent this: The base size of the TDS-200DS is 16.5 cm × 24.5 cm (W × L), which is approximately 6.5" × 9.6" (W × L).

Now to measure my stand.
 

whateg01

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Dunno where in central CA you are but I see a $100 jet listed that I expect would be fine and an older pre-block, using Fresno as the search area.

There's also a Dayton listed that is priced too high, but started at 250 and is down to 200. Worth making an offer on it. Appears to be 1/3 HP

Can't believe you can't make a grinder fit a stand.
 
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Dunno where in central CA you are but I see a $100 jet listed that I expect would be fine and an older pre-block, using Fresno as the search area.

There's also a Dayton listed that is priced too high, but started at 250 and is down to 200. Worth making an offer on it. Appears to be 1/3 HP

Can't believe you can't make a grinder fit a stand.
I am guessing it will fit but will measure in the morning. The two speed grinder would best serve my needs if it will. I don't have faith in the availability of speed controls for the variable speed ones. The bucktool one is 8", 1725 / 3450 RPM, has machined flanges instead of pressed ones, 5/8" shaft, and is 2.1 / 3.1 amps so it has a little more power than the regular 2.1 amp ones that everyone is selling. I don't have space for two grinders and the 3450 ones are a bit too fast for buffing.

I suspect this will be the one but I am also looking at the Jet and Dayton. The only thing I don't like about it is that it lacks the shopvac connection some have, which would be nice because it gets old with all the grinding dust sometimes when I have something heavier that needs to be ground. But mostly I use the one now for resharpening drill bits, wire wheel, and occasional buff. I use the angle grinder and the vise to sharpen anything else like the mower blade etc..

66ab100c-7e7c-40dc-a8ac-1f6f16c6d311.__CR0,0,970,600_PT0_SX970_V1___.jpg
 
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BurtEggley

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Dunno where in central CA you are but I see a $100 jet listed that I expect would be fine and an older pre-block, using Fresno as the search area.

There's also a Dayton listed that is priced too high, but started at 250 and is down to 200. Worth making an offer on it. Appears to be 1/3 HP

Can't believe you can't make a grinder fit a stand.
also - we might go to Fresno in mid-Feb for a dog show, since it is a couple hours from here, but that one for $100 looks pretty rusty. Not sure which model it is but it would be a good deal for someone who has time to go thru it and clean it up. My stuff is all in good to excellent condition, mostly kept like new. Maybe my grinder now would be fair to good with the bearings starting to talk. I think most people would not hear it or even know what it is but I do. It stalls too easily on a larger item, and that is why one with slightly more power is appealing.
 

whateg01

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also - we might go to Fresno in mid-Feb for a dog show, since it is a couple hours from here, but that one for $100 looks pretty rusty. Not sure which model it is but it would be a good deal for someone who has time to go thru it and clean it up. My stuff is all in good to excellent condition, mostly kept like new. Maybe my grinder now would be fair to good with the bearings starting to talk. I think most people would not hear it or even know what it is but I do. It stalls too easily on a larger item, and that is why one with slightly more power is appealing.
Ok, well, I don't know where you are, so that was a best guess and it's kind of in central CA. Good luck. Sounds to me, if you are going to be picky about the appearance and you have a list of needs, you are best just spending the money on a new one that fits all of you specific needs. If you are stalling the current one, I don't think you are going to be happy with a 1/6 or 1/4 HP machine.
 

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Hard to believe the pickings are so bad in central California for used grinders. But Central California is a very big area so who knows what corner you are in. In the last few years I have purchased 7 Baldor 6” or 7” grinders in the coastal So Cal area. All complete and in running condition. Prices ranged from $10 - $100 each. Good deals are out there. But if you need it tomorrow, new is your best option.

Here is the $10 one. Worst external condition of any of them by far but works great. Sold it to my neighbor who uses it all the time.IMG_0073.jpeg
 

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I have the 8", $200 Herculese from HF. Got it on a coupon for $160. I haven't taken it out of the box yet, as I have to build a stand for it. First I've heard of the exploding capacitor...


How about a nice hand-crank grinder? Only $50...probably talk him down to $40...


1768490907111.png
 
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jayemm

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I have the 8", $200 Herculese from HF. Got it on a coupon for $160. I haven't taken it out of the box yet, as I have to build a stand for it. First I've heard of the exploding capacitor...


How about a nice hand-crank grinder? Only $50...probably talk him down to $40...


1768490907111.png
No place to mount a wire wheel but I'd take it if the jar of pennies comes with the deal.:D
 

four.cycle

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obviously it varies from day to day.
you can get a brand new "Central Machinery" 8-inch grinder for $45, but an online review of that unit doesn't look too favorable.
the next step-up is a new "Laguna" 8-incher for $195
currently much more sparse than what I usually see in those listings.
 

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Hard to believe the pickings are so bad in central California for used grinders. But Central California is a very big area so who knows what corner you are in. In the last few years I have purchased 7 Baldor 6” or 7” grinders in the coastal So Cal area. All complete and in running condition. Prices ranged from $10 - $100 each. Good deals are out there. But if you need it tomorrow, new is your best option.

Here is the $10 one. Worst external condition of any of them by far but works great. Sold it to my neighbor who uses it all the time.IMG_0073.jpeg
That one is missing the tool rest, which is where this whole thread started. Pretty sure he’s not looking for a project, although I do understand that’s no issue for many Marketplace buyers.

At least it wasn’t recovered from the Titanic like a few I have seen here.
 
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BurtEggley

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Re the Hercules. There are a bunch of posts from people who have bought them in the last six months of exploding caps. In all of them, HF won't help if it is over 90 days old and no additional warranty was purchased. Couple people wrote oil dripped out when the caps exploded. Sounds like a bad run of caps. HF parts sells them.

I also looked at the Eastwood but it cannot be shipped to California and there was a thread on Reddit that Eastwood sued Hercules because the Hercules one was a clone of the Eastwood, and that is why they look alike. I am also looking at the Dayton ones per a suggestion in this thread.

Glad someone got that grinder for $10. Especially if they have some extra time and energy they can clean it up, toss some rattle can on it and it will make a nice addition to their workbench. At 75 I just have no interest in more projects. More into just maintaining what I have already and trying to downsize a little. One project a week is about all I can handle these days, where it used to be three or four a day when younger. Had open heart surgery last summer and still recovering from that slowly. Left arm got a hematoma in it a month afterwards and was swollen for months. Still hurts a little. Not complaining, just don't get around as fast.

I'll find one that does what is needed, and post a photo when it comes in.
 
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BurtEggley

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measured the stand. Too small for the Bucktool. Would need to modify it by having a larger steel plate welded on it, or adding a plywood platform on the existing platform. Stand top is 6.5" x 8.5". Bucktool TDS2000 is 6.5" x 9.6". My workbench sits next to the laundry, water heater and HVAC system. It is already too small to be adding more things on top. The workbench used to be larger but it gave up space for a 12 ton press, and I am not ready to give that up quite yet. Can still get two cars in the garage at night and not ready to give that up either. Will think about it I guess. It will work out.
 

tool_scrounge

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That one is missing the tool rest, which is where this whole thread started. Pretty sure he’s not looking for a project, although I do understand that’s no issue for many Marketplace buyers.

At least it wasn’t recovered from the Titanic like a few I have seen here.
I should have shown a photo of the like new $40 one with eye shields, but I did not have a photo handy.
 

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jayemm

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measured the stand. Too small for the Bucktool. Would need to modify it by having a larger steel plate welded on it, or adding a plywood platform on the existing platform. Stand top is 6.5" x 8.5". Bucktool TDS2000 is 6.5" x 9.6". My workbench sits next to the laundry, water heater and HVAC system. It is already too small to be adding more things on top. The workbench used to be larger but it gave up space for a 12 ton press, and I am not ready to give that up quite yet. Can still get two cars in the garage at night and not ready to give that up either. Will think about it I guess. It will work out.
Would it matter if the grinder base overhung the plate a little as long as the mounting holes still fit on the plate.
 
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BurtEggley

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Here is my thinking. Personal story if y'all can tolerate it. I am 75 now, Dad is gone for years now. He served in WWII doing air patrols for submarines off the gulf and east coasts. Texans, PBY's etc.. After WWII he was in charge of the aviation budgets for one of the US military services. We were stationed in DC at that time in the 50's. He used to tell me a story of one of his moments. He was updating the aviation electronics, specifically buying certain test equipment to service radar units. He went to Tectronix as a brand as I recall, (Texrad) to buy some oscilloscopes. He chose a unit, walked the assembly line with the sales people, and went to order 1200 units. Tectronix was happy for the potential order but when they told him that the US Navy had locked up all the units off the assembly line for six months, he decided not to go with that unit. He said, "while I walked the assembly line, every third or fourth unit got a blue case instead of a gray case, and a different name plate. What's up with that?" He told me that they told him those units were another product line they sold which was the same identical unit but a different color and label. He said, "how many are in the warehouse?" They gave him a number and he bought the 1200 units he needed and had them delivered immediately. The difference between the ones he ordered and the Navy units? The ones he ordered were blue and silver, instead of gray and silver, had another name on them, and cost $400 less per unit than the ones the Navy was ordering. And he got them immediately. So my point is, I don't want to pay more for a new grinder when the same unit might be available in a different color for substantially less. Some of the units for sale look a hell of a lot like other models that someone else is selling for a lot more. There is a lot of that going on.

Would it matter if the grinder base overhung the plate a little as long as the mounting holes still fit on the plate.

No - but the holes in the base are beyond the current stand plate.

I feel like I am beating a dead horse in the sense that just need to make a decision how to proceed here. The Vevor units seem like a bargain, Dayton is US made it appears, Jet is really well made but expensive, Craftsman and Dewalt are available nearby at ACE on sale, Bucktool will fit if I modify the baseplate, and HF has Bauer and Hercules units as long as one factors in the additional warranty cost. Grizzly has them too for a good price but they look a lot like other brands. Used might be a good value if I wait until one comes up that is realistically priced (It doesn't make sense to pay more for something used and beat up than it costs a new one of that model with a warranty). Lots for sale here where they want more than I can go get a new one of the same model. Anyway, thank you all for ideas.
 
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whateg01

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Two items that look the same might be. Or the internals might be different. I recall some power tools back in the 90s were available that looked identical on the outside but the less expensive one used plain bearings where the more expensive one used ball bearings. I'm not saying that's exactly the case with bench grinders but there could be cheaper switches used, or the wiring might be lighter duty. 4x6 bandsaws are a good example today where you can have similar looking models but one can true up the blade easily on one model but the other model lacks an adjustment that makes it easy. With bench grinders, maybe one brand sells their grinder with a cheaper wheel to make the overall price lower.
 
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BurtEggley

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Two items that look the same might be. Or the internals might be different. I recall some power tools back in the 90s were available that looked identical on the outside but the less expensive one used plain bearings where the more expensive one used ball bearings. I'm not saying that's exactly the case with bench grinders but there could be cheaper switches used, or the wiring might be lighter duty. 4x6 bandsaws are a good example today where you can have similar looking models but one can true up the blade easily on one model but the other model lacks an adjustment that makes it easy. With bench grinders, maybe one brand sells their grinder with a cheaper wheel to make the overall price lower.
good points. As to the wheels, I will use specific brands that I have had really good luck with. The Norton white cut well and run cool.
 

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...........The Vevor units seem like a bargain, Dayton is US made it appears, Jet is really well made but expensive, Craftsman and Dewalt are available nearby at ACE on sale, Bucktool will fit if I modify the baseplate, and HF has Bauer and Hercules units as long as one factors in the additional warranty cost....

I feel like I should give the heads up as im the one to suggest it.

Im assuming any grinder you find new for under $1000 is going to be offshore mfg, including the Daytons- Made in China

dayton grinder.jpg
 
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BurtEggley

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Thanks. I suspect many, if not most of these come out of the same factories. Most give the same hp but an occasional one is listed for more. Don't know if that is just advertising or reality. They seem to come in mostly two variants, whose prices can be $100 more than an almost identical one.

Craftsman, Wen and Dayton variable with control on left

craftsman 6 in variable.jpgWen 6 in variable.jpgdayton 6 in variable.jpg

Delta, Bentism (Lowes), Vevor and Porter Cable for example control on right. I just wish there was a review of all these together to see if there are differences.

delta 6 in variable.jpg

bentism 6 in variable.jpg

vevor  6 in variable.jpgporter cable 6 in variable.jpg
 

whateg01

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Still have not bought a grinder? Pick the prettiest one if that's what makes you happy. If you think they're all the same, by the cheapest one. If you think that there might be differences by the most expensive one, just in case.

ETA: not so much for okay because OB is hung up on way too many things, but for somebody looking at buying something like a grinder or any other thing do read reviews because that's where you find out stuff like the nuts holding the wheels on are made of plastic. But take reviews with a grain of salt. If you read in a review that this grinder is worthless because when I lean into it it stalls the motor, consider whether what you are doing would be considered leaning into it or not? I have read reviews on belt grinders that have said you really can't make a knife without a 2x72, but lots of people do anyway. Maybe not ideal but certainly doable. I don't think I would buy a grinder that only Drew 2.1 amps, but for somebody sharpening steak knives it's probably plenty.
 
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want to pull the trigger on a new grinder, but the numbers and ratings are throwing me off. The grinder I have now is 2.8 amps. Probably made in Taiwan for Craftsman some 25 - 28 years ago. I can stall it pretty easy with the wire wheel or buffer. The grinder wheel itself is mostly used to dulling sharp things going in recycle or sharpening drill bits. Hit the stone carefully, then a special stone and sharpen a drill bit. I might migrate to a CBN wheel for drill bits. It reads it is 1/3 HP at 2.8 amps and 120V. I see lots of the ones posted above that are 2.1 amps at 120V rated at 1/3 HP. See some rated at 1/2 HP that are 5 amps. Using a motor calculator, 2.8 amps gives .45 HP. 5 amps gives .80 HP. 2.1 amps at 120V gives .33 HP.

Using a chart at Elliott Electrical. 1/3 HP at 110-120V takes 7.2 amps. 1/2 takes 9.8 amps.

So who is telling the truth and who is not?

EDIT: I found a thread over in electrical discussing this very issue. AMP X Volts \ 746 = HP ignoring efficiency. I need to look at something that is probably 5 to 10 amps draw. Considering the circuit it is on is shared with other items, probably 5 is best for my needs. When the shed was being resided the guys doing the work had a small air compressor running off the circuit, while I had a shop vac, and I think saw going, plus some overhead lights and it popped the 15A breaker.
 
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The OP is suffering Analysis Paralysis. Been there done that! After reading your posts, I say get the Buck Tools one and be done with it. I have a Buck Tools disk/belt sander and it works just fine.

I had a 6" Delta Thin Line #23-665 that used 2.5A and it worked fine for my needs: wire wheeling metal parts. I hardly ever used the grinding wheel. I sold it to get a smaller one (the 3" HF one. Jury is still out, but I think it will serve my needs). I also have a Craftsman 8" block grinder that I use to sharpen HSS lathe bits that works just fine. I bought it used on FB. There are quite a few for sale in the $100 range in the greater SoCal area.

I also tell anyone selling a used grinder I can get still get new that I can still get it new for less than that and ask (politely) how are they arriving at that price.
 

jayemm

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AThe OP is suffering Analysis Paralysis. Been there done that! After reading your posts, I say get the Buck Tools one and be done with it. I have a Buck Tools disk/belt sander and it works just fine.

I had a 6" Delta Thin Line #23-665 that used 2.5A and it worked fine for my needs: wire wheeling metal parts. I hardly ever used the grinding wheel. I sold it to get a smaller one (the 3" HF one. Jury is still out, but I think it will serve my needs). I also have a Craftsman 8" block grinder that I use to sharpen HSS lathe bits that works just fine. I bought it used on FB. There are quite a few for sale in the $100 range in the greater SoCal area.

I also tell anyone selling a used grinder I can get still get new that I can still get it new for less than that and ask (politely) how are they arriving at that price.
I have the 6" Delta #23-660 thin-line grinder with the same 2.5A rating as yours. I think we have (or you had) the same grinder with different housings. It's been adequate for my needs doing light wire wheeling and grinding but I know I wouldn't want a 6" grinder with less amps/power. No way would I consider 2.1 amps. In the past I noticed the expensive 6" grinders were rated at 3.5 A (like some Dayton, Baldor, Jet etc.). Insofar as amps vs HP calculations, it wouldn't surprise me if the induction motors in these grinders are even 60% efficient. My Delta at 2.5 A is listed as 1/5 HP on the data label.
 
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BurtEggley

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It would be one thing if I could go in a store and test them against each other, take measurements to see what fits the stand I have, if any do at all without too much mod, and then say "I'll take this one." The decision has to be made from pieces of paper, advertising literature, and guesses based on those. That is the issue for me. I saw a nice Baldor up in Oregon at a reasonable price ($200). One of our friends is in that specific town this weekend and I was thinking, maybe I could do a paypal or something and have my friend bring it back to me. Then in the fine print it said "rewound but works well, blows the breaker every time I turn it on. Probably the house cause it is old." Yeah right, lost my interest.

I was hoping this thread might give me some answers, and it did. But it also opened new questions that made me realize I need to understand better what the specs on paper actually mean and don't mean. But based on it, I believe whatever I buy will need to be about 5 amps which narrows the field. Today was too hectic to put a lot of time into the decision.
 
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BurtEggley

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wrote Jet this morning to get the base size on the JET JBG-6A. If anyone has that already please post it. Also verify 5 amps. If it fits, this will be the one I get. 20% off coupon at Zoro puts it slightly over $245 plus tax new.
 
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