Time for a new miter saw, need a slider

[signcrafter]

I've had my trusty Bosch 12" miter saw for about 15 years now and love it. It's done almost everything I've asked of it but there are times where I need the capacity of a slider. Like today I wanted to cut a piece of 8" oak and it came up about 1/2" inch short. Then I wanted to 45* cut that board and it wasn't even going to be close. So I need to pick up a slider that from what I have read they will cut a 2x12 on a 45. At least that is what the rigid said. I couldn't find a spec for the Bosch glider.

I would love a Bosch glider but 650 is a pretty steep price for me. I was looking at the rigid 12 inch slider for 399 and it seems alright. Anyone have experience with this saw? Any other contenders I should be looking at? Looks like DeWalt is almost as expensive as the Bosch so if it was between them I would spend the extra couple bucks on the Bosch. But not really wanting to spend that much right now.

 

[firworks]

I've got the Bosch 12" glider and... I don't really like it. The glide mechanism is cool but I've tried setting it up several times and cannot get close to a square cut out of the thing no matter how careful I am. I make sure I'm pulling it as straight as I can and not leaning to either side or any of the other tips I see from people online and it's just not even close. I was thinking of doing the setup on video and then showing the results to see if maybe there's something I'm just missing about the setup but as of right now I would not buy it again. Hopefully others will chime in with the Dewalt or the Rigid but don't stretch yourself to get the glider I guess is my recommendation.

 

[wingz4life2788]

I'm trying to decide between the mikita C12RSH and the mikita C12RSH2 that came out in April. Both are on sale at lowes for 369.99.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

 

[rlitman]

...Then I wanted to 45* cut that board and it wasn't even going to be close. So I need to pick up a slider that from what I have read they will cut a 2x12 on a 45. At least that is what the rigid said...

Only a 2x12 @ 45 degrees bevel, not miter. Bevel doesn't affect the length of cut, just the maximum cutting height.

Ridgid 12" Sliding Compound Miter Saw with Adjustable Laser
Model MS1290LZA

Cutting Capacities

Baseboard Against Fence 5½ in.
Max. Cross Cut 13 ½ in.
90° Cross Cut (nominal) 2 in. x 12 in. or 4 in. x 4 in.
45° Miter Cut (nominal) 2 in. x 10 in.
45° Bevel Cut (nominal) 2 in. x 12 in.

My Dewalt slides enough to cut a 12" shelf in a single cut, but 16" shelves need to be flipped to finish the cut.

 

[shawhite]

I personally love my Bosch 10in glider. i have found that you will get a much more square cut if you pull the saw out and push thru the cut rather than pulling thru the cut.

 

[Jim Johnstone]

Just a note on the rigid. My brother in law works for mike holmes and the crew has used most of the major brands through their sponsorship deals. Anyway he said the rigid was their least favorite as it got sloppy quickly compared to Milwaukee and dewalt which were the favorites.

Also my neighbor's brother owns a power tool repair business and is the local rigid warranty service guy. When I told him my buddy bought the rigid 12" slider he said "well I'll be seeing him sooner or later".

 

[gungatim]

I have the Makita and love it. It's the only non-delta power tool in my woodshop for a reason. I have the 10" SCMS but can nearly cut a 1x12 in a single pass. even the stock blade is high quality and it always gets top reviews in every tool comparison I have seen.

 

[ryan20021982]

I have the Makita as well and love it

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

Dewalt DWS780... my first miter, no more borrowing my Dad's Cman sliding 10". Was able to set is per Festool Kapex instructions for accuracy with ease.

 

[Strouty]

Firworks, I have never heard of anyone using a compound miter saw pulling through the material. The old radio alarm saws (LOL) maybe, but not a miter saw.

 

[thebeekeeper1]

The 12" Dewalt is the only one I would own. The only drawback is they are a heavy pig to carry around.

 

[shawhite]

Seems like a lot of people on here have 12in miter saws. What are you cutting that a 10in or even 8 1/2 miter saw could not accomplish not bashing just trying to understand.

 

[signcrafter]

I'm trying to decide between the mikita C12RSH and the mikita C12RSH2 that came out in April. Both are on sale at lowes for 369.99.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

When I googled Makita c12rsh it brought up Hitachi's?

Only a 2x12 @ 45 degrees bevel, not miter. Bevel doesn't affect the length of cut, just the maximum cutting height.

Ridgid 12" Sliding Compound Miter Saw with Adjustable Laser
Model MS1290LZA

Cutting Capacities

Baseboard Against Fence 5½ in.
Max. Cross Cut 13 ½ in.
90° Cross Cut (nominal) 2 in. x 12 in. or 4 in. x 4 in.
45° Miter Cut (nominal) 2 in. x 10 in.
45° Bevel Cut (nominal) 2 in. x 12 in.

My Dewalt slides enough to cut a 12" shelf in a single cut, but 16" shelves need to be flipped to finish the cut.

Makes sense.

Just a note on the rigid. My brother in law works for mike holmes and the crew has used most of the major brands through their sponsorship deals. Anyway he said the rigid was their least favorite as it got sloppy quickly compared to Milwaukee and dewalt which were the favorites.

Also my neighbor's brother owns a power tool repair business and is the local rigid warranty service guy. When I told him my buddy bought the rigid 12" slider he said "well I'll be seeing him sooner or later".

Thanks for the feedback on the rigid

The 12" Dewalt is the only one I would own. The only drawback is they are a heavy pig to carry around.

I've read a lot of bad reviews about the newer DeWalt. Older DeWalt were great but the newer ones don't seem to get great reviews.

Seems like a lot of people on here have 12in miter saws. What are you cutting that a 10in or even 8 1/2 miter saw could not accomplish not bashing just trying to understand.

Personally if I'm buying a saw I would like it to have the capacity to cut whatever I might need. And from my searching the 10 inch versions are only about 50 to 100 cheaper then the 12 inch versions.

 

[firworks]

Firworks, I have never heard of anyone using a compound miter saw pulling through the material. The old radio alarm saws (LOL) maybe, but not a miter saw.

I mean pulling it down into the workpiece from raised. The Bosch has a little key you can insert to lock the glide mechanism in place so it's just a standard miter saw then. Even in that configuration trying to pull it straight down to cut it's nowhere near square. Maybe this weekend if I get time I'll try to mess with it again. It mostly just sits in the corner covered in dust because I can't really use it for anything but super rough cuts. Anything that needs to be at all a good cut gets done with a miter gauge on the tablesaw.

 

[Jim Johnstone]

Seems like a lot of people on here have 12in miter saws. What are you cutting that a 10in or even 8 1/2 miter saw could not accomplish not bashing just trying to understand.

I have the dewalt Dw780 with jobsite stand and I just wanted the ability to cut anything I may need to. In all honesty most of my cutting can be done with the slide locked out, but the odd occasion I need the slide, I'm happy to have it.

 

[shawhite]

Personally if I'm buying a saw I would like it to have the capacity to cut whatever I might need. And from my searching the 10 inch versions are only about 50 to 100 cheaper then the 12 inch versions.

I use to think the same way but after talking to a couple wood working buddies I learned. 10in blades are cheaper. 10in blades deflect less in a cut and 10in saws are lighter. I have cut 4x6s, 2x12s, crown, base, trim u name it and have not found a need for a saw larger than 10in. just saying don't count any of the 10in saws out they will surprise you

 

[theoldwizard1]

Seems like a lot of people on here have 12in miter saws. What are you cutting that a 10in or even 8 1/2 miter saw could not accomplish not bashing just trying to understand.

I have to agree ! How many times are you going to have to miter a 2x12 or bevel cut a 2x10 ? I guess if you are a pro you can afford to have that capacity. As mentioned, those big suckers are heavy !

Less portable, but a GOOD used RAS would handle those chores easily.

 

[skippy24]

I've had the Dewalt DS709 for about a year now and have had no issues with it what so ever. I got it for $399 on sale from Lowes but HD also has the same one. It doesn't have all the bells and whistles on it but it is a very accurate and capable saw. I have a new Diablo crosscut blade and it cuts everything nice and smooth.

 

[Jim Johnstone]

I have to agree ! How many times are you going to have to miter a 2x12 or bevel cut a 2x10 ? I guess if you are a pro you can afford to have that capacity. As mentioned, those big suckers are heavy !

Less portable, but a GOOD used RAS would handle those chores easily.

Maybe I'm in the minority, but the size and weight of the saw is of little concern for me. Are a lot of you fellas loading up your saws and moving them around a lot? Mine stays setup on the stand ready when I need it?

 

[wingz4life2788]

When I googled Makita c12rsh it brought up Hitachi's?



Makes sense.



Thanks for the feedback on the rigid





I've read a lot of bad reviews about the newer DeWalt. Older DeWalt were great but the newer ones don't seem to get great reviews.



Personally if I'm buying a saw I would like it to have the capacity to cut whatever I might need. And from my searching the 10 inch versions are only about 50 to 100 cheaper then the 12 inch versions.

Ment to say hitachi C12RSH or C12RSH2. I just bought both the C12RSH2 and UU240R from lowes. Hopefully they were good choices.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

 

[KenC]

I have to agree ! How many times are you going to have to miter a 2x12 or bevel cut a 2x10 ? I guess if you are a pro you can afford to have that capacity. As mentioned, those big suckers are heavy !

Less portable, but a GOOD used RAS would handle those chores easily.

I second that! As a matter of fact, I just bought a mint 80ish Dewalt/Black and decker 'Power Shop'. I have a 12" dewalt non-slider but needed something that could do dados as well as wider cuts. And, this one came on a factory cabinet base with all the original paperwork. for $75 !!!

If space and/or portability aren't critical concerns, you can't beat it.

 

[finn]

Maybe I'm in the minority, but the size and weight of the saw is of little concern for me. Are a lot of you fellas loading up your saws and moving them around a lot? Mine stays setup on the stand ready when I need it?

I move mine around between three houses, the garage, and my shop.

Bought a new Bosch to replace the old Makita that let out the smoke.

I opted for the 10" over the 12" simply because of the weight.

 

[gungatim]

Seems like a lot of people on here have 12in miter saws. What are you cutting that a 10in or even 8 1/2 miter saw could not accomplish not bashing just trying to understand.

for me, the ability to use common and less expensive 10" blades was a plus, I have lots of them for other saws so keeping 12" blades around seemed like waste.

I am sure a 12" can cut a bit more than a 10" on a single pass, but I don't use mine for construction, so I don't regularly cut 2x12's, though I can nearly cut that with a little left over. the Makita is so tight it is easy to cut something up to 16" by just flipping it over and lining the blade with the cut, but generally, if I need to cross cut something that wide it is usually plywood, and I do it with my JBS fence and the Unisaw.

contractors I can see not wanting to do that on a site so maybe 12" is the way to go in that situation. for my cabinet/furniture shop, it's rare to cut a shelf or something much wider than 12", but again, the big Unisaw is there for that kind of thing...

my first cms was an old cast iron craftsman, a real pig and not real accurate. I have a 2nd cms that is an aluminum delta that is homeowner grade but still pretty nice, I use that for a portable saw in my trailer when I have to go off-site to build something or work on a house...

 

[signcrafter]

A 10" will do most of what I need and yes blades are cheaper. But, some brands the price difference between the ten and twelve is only like 50 dollars. So in those cases I think it's better to spend the extra 50 and have the capacity for those few times you may need it. Just my opinion I guess.

I don't think any of the local stores sell Makita anymore. So it looks like it's either ridgid or Hitachi for under 400 or step up to the big guys DeWalt or Bosch for 6 to 650. That's a lot of money for a saw but my last Bosch has served me well for the last 15 years.

Tough decisions.

 

[Jim Johnstone]

I don't see the price difference between quality 10" and quality 12" blades being a big deal. The last long enough and can be sharpened several times. I've heard guys say they like just having 10" blades so they can swap them between table and miter saw, that just sounds like a massive pain in the ***.

 

[rlitman]

I don't see the price difference between quality 10" and quality 12" blades being a big deal. The last long enough and can be sharpened several times. I've heard guys say they like just having 10" blades so they can swap them between table and miter saw, that just sounds like a massive pain in the ***.

Sounds like a massive pain in the *** to me too. Especially because a good table saw blade will be a lousy miter saw blade, and vice versa (the rake angles should be different). Anyway, 12" blades last longer, and I've found that while larger blades cost more, the cost increase does not keep up with the increase in circumference (which matches longevity).
Plus, if these people really wanted it, they could always get a nice 12" cabinet saw.

I have a 12" DW708, but plenty of 10" sliding saws have the same reach, and for me, I've never needed the extra inch of radius when cutting. A lot of 10" miter saws are made with less bulk around the arbor, because they know their users want to cut 4x lumber, so they have a deeper cut than a 10" table saw (also there's no table in the way). So a 10" sliding miter saw can cut a 4x4, but with just a little slide to get at one corner. I can lock the slide on my 12" saw and just chop cut a 4x4.

But this brings up a point. The 10" saws have the same capacity because you can slide them. I feel that I get a better miter cut on crown molding when the slide is locked. And in that case, a 10" saw might just be a little too small without sliding (and when you slide, the accuracy of the miter decreases).

Don't get me wrong, I LOVE my sliding saw. But I only use the slide when I need it.

 

[Jim Johnstone]

Sounds like a massive pain in the *** to me too. Especially because a good table saw blade will be a lousy miter saw blade, and vice versa (the rake angles should be different).

I have a 12" DW708, but plenty of 10" sliding saws have the same reach, and for me, I've never needed the extra inch of radius when cutting. A lot of 10" miter saws are made with less bulk around the arbor, because they know their users want to cut 4x lumber, so they have a deeper cut than a 10" table saw (also there's no table in the way). So a 10" sliding miter saw can cut a 4x4, but with just a little slide to get at one corner. I can lock the slide on my 12" saw and just chop cut a 4x4.

But this brings up a point. The 10" saws have the same capacity because you can slide them. I feel that I get a better miter cut on crown molding when the slide is locked. And in that case, a 10" saw might just be a little too small without sliding (and when you slide, the accuracy of the miter decreases).

Good point, the rake angles are different for both purposes.

 

[tarbellb]

Lots of good info on here, and TONS of previous threads (all recent) that will cover every f'n aspect of miter saws including RAS, 10 vs 12, slide vs non slide, etc...

Definitely do yourself a favor and do a quick search on here, even just title search.


As for the argument about 10" vs 12", I think there are good reasons for both.

Namely, if you do big heavy cuts like framing or tall moulding you'd want to opt for a 12".
A 10" slider will cut 95% of everything else.

I also think the argument about "switching 10" blades out with xxxx" is being lost in translation.

The idea isnt that you only have one blade and move it around, its that you have

_ thin kerf
_ solid surface
_ wet lumber
_ rip
_ high tooth count
_ etc.....

and can interchange them. Where as if you have a 12" less likely or higher $.

 

[speed bump]

I don't see the price difference between quality 10" and quality 12" blades being a big deal. The last long enough and can be sharpened several times. I've heard guys say they like just having 10" blades so they can swap them between table and miter saw, that just sounds like a massive pain in the ***.

Figure the price difference is about 10-25% depending on the blade. Across 3-5 blades and the price of the saw that is a couple of hundred bucks. Most manufacturers of saw blades say most blades will work fine in either miter saws or table saw. Of course they will also sell you dedicated blades if that is what you prefer. Now I probably wouldn't spend any time swapping my rough cut blade or trim blade but some of the other ones I would. I don't see the point to having a dedicated table saw or miter saw blade I use once every 2 years on 1 saw and once a month on the other saw.

 

[Trey T]

Another vote for Hitachi fixed linear slide, similar to Festool Kapex but 12"

 

[Git]

Seems like a lot of people on here have 12in miter saws. What are you cutting that a 10in or even 8 1/2 miter saw could not accomplish not bashing just trying to understand.

What is the normal width of a bookshelf or closet shelf?

I have the Bosch 12" Glide (GCM12SD). If I am cutting a pieces of plywood or something similar, I can cut 16" at 90° if I *carefully* pivot the piece up into the blade

 

[signcrafter]

Looks like my options are the Bosch glider for 650 or the DeWalt dws780 for 600 or the Hitachi c12rsh2 for 370 at menards. The Bosch or DeWalt I can get 10 to 15 percent off at HD with the proX program. So out of these three which one would you pick. Or if you have another suggestion I'm open but these are about all the decent saws i see locally.

 

[FULLSCALE302]

Another vote for the DWS780 here. I've only had mine a couple months but it's the best saw I've ever used. I'm currently making some closet shelving and it's great to be able to cut a 16" wide board with it! I have the rolling stand as well, it's great for moving it around and out of the way when I'm not using it.

 

[finn]

If you can wait, Menards puts the Bosch sliders on sale a couple times per year, sometimes in conjunction with the 11% off deal.

I caught one of those sales and they beat the best internet price by a considerable margin.

 

[tarbellb]

You gotta check out the Makita LS1016 (10") LS1216(12") series.

 

[signcrafter]

You gotta check out the Makita LS1016 (10") LS1216(12") series.

I would but nobody sells it local so kind of hard to check it out.

 

[Rarified27]

Quick thoughts-

I have a DWS779 (it's the 780 w/out the fancy light and $200 less- I paid $399 for the 779).

Since I'm used to lining up my blade with a workpiece the old fashioned way, I didn't feel a need to spend more for the lighted version.

However, there's a significant set of differences between the 709 and 779, for about $100 of difference.

Unless you're just cutting miter angles and slightly wider than 2x8 stock, this saw is useless (709 rails are shorter than the 779).

-No bevel stops to make consistent compound cuts.
-No depth stop for consistent plunge cuts.
-No cam lock for miter adjustments, so you waste time spinning the knob that moves when you tighten it.
-No slide lock to keep the motor from sliding on the rails in transit.
-No top carry handle to help move the saw, only uncomfortable hand holds on the table sides.

Returned the 709 for the 779, which has all of the missing features above. Again, the only difference between the 779 and the 780 is the XPS lighting system. Save the extra $200 for a quality blade to put on the 779.

 

[All]

Rarified27....

Thank you for your detailed and specific comments regarding the differences between two similar looking DeWalt 12" compound sliding miter saws. I absolutely HATE when companies try to mislead consumers with similar looking products that have many features thrifted out... the loss of which is not described, and does not immediately meet the eye until the purchase is made. Thank you for clarifiying what should be pointed out on the box.

I don't have any sliding compound miter saw yet... but I'm looking to replace a Sears 10" radial saw. I have both 10" and 12" table saws, so blade size isn't an issue... but ACCURACY OF ANGLE CUTS is most certainly an issue. Price is no object.

I've played with the Bosch 12" glide arm saw in the stores, and from doing so, can completely understand the OP's frustration with that particular saw. It glides beautifully. The moving action is better than any twin rail saw out there, whether the rails are horizontal or vertical. The problem however, is that I can wiggle the Bosch side to side a good 1/8" when I bring the action down to the cutting fence. This means my miters won't be accurate.

I should not be able to swing the blade/motor assembly side to side by 1/8" when the blade/motor assembly is brought into intersection with the work piece. This in store experience is what has kept me from buying an otherwise very appealing Bosch Glide Arm 12" miter saw, price be damned. It really doesn't matter how smooth the action is, if the accuracy is suspect.

Hence, I'm subscribing to this thread.

 

[the GOAT]

I replaced my 20 year old Makita ls10 something or other last year. If I could have kept I would have. But after years of abuse in the back of the truck, left out in rain and snow on the job site it's time was up. There was/is nothing quite like it available today....lightweight compact slider with good cutting capacity. All the new sliders have gotten bigger and heavier for better or worse.

Over the years I've used pretty much every brand a time or two they all seem to work. For the money the hitachi stuff can be pretty good. Dewalt seemed to struggle quality wise for a while but seems to have gotten better again lately.

For me the choice came down to the festool kapex and the Bosch glider. I couldn't justify the kapex for the money and went with the Bosch 12"... The 10" uses the same glide mechanics so it was pretty much the same weight and size as the 12.. Might as well get the bigger cut capacity. A big factor for me was the sealed glide system that should hold up to rain a little better over time

Mine came adjusted correctly. The first cuts I did were four pieces of base returns--made a perfect square. I know others have not had the same luck. However, the saw come with a users manual that takes you through fine tuning the saw for accuracy. There is a quick adjustment that controls the glide 'tension' adjusting that would/should take care of the 1/8" side to side 'play' in the store demo.

 

[Bottlecapdigger]

I have the Makita as well and love it

I have the Makita and love it. It's the only non-delta power tool in my woodshop for a reason. I have the 10" SCMS but can nearly cut a 1x12 in a single pass. even the stock blade is high quality and it always gets top reviews in every tool comparison I have seen.

I have the Mikita also, the 1013 model, not sure if they still make that model or not but it is one of the best woodworking tools I bought. Great machine, I wouldn't change anything about it. The only thing is the portable base, I bought the ridgid instead of the Mikita. I found it not so bulky, more compact and folds up easy. And with good size wheels on it so i can roll it across the lawn. The portable, fold up bases can be a topic on its own here. Bcd