Time switch recommendations for battery charger

[Strouty]

I have an electric forklift and the battery charger that I use doesn't turn off automatically. I would like to set it up for 12 hour charge cycles and I have been looking at time switches like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008KNSPZQ/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I would ultimately rather have something designed to be in the housing of the charger, I know I can mount an electrical box, but it seems kind of goofy. Do they make one that would mount to a panel or inside your own enclosure? Also looking for any brand or type recommendations.

 

[doorfx]

Get a new battery charger. The new lift truck chargers are smart chargers. They will even do an equalization charged based on use. A new lift truck battery can run $5-8000 dollars here in Calgary.

 

[Stuart in MN]

I usually go with Intermatic timers, they're good quality: http://www.intermatic.com/en-us

 

[bzinsky]

I have a lot of commercial turn style light timers in apartment buildings, just like that one, and they fail frequently. What happens is they get down to the end and they don't shut off. I don't have any evidence of brand associated problems, just that I wouldn't trust them on something that has potential for disaster.

I also have plenty of these and is what I would recommend. No idea what brands I have, but all of them work.
https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/3419/ELEC-T101.html

Mostly used for exterior lighting. They aren't very accurate and can lose track of time over the years, but they never fail to turn the circuit on or off.

 

[bzinsky]

I absolutely second both posts before me. I definitely do not recommend charging a forklift this way, but I hate it when people try to answer questions I didn't ask.

 

[Strouty]

Get a new battery charger. The new lift truck chargers are smart chargers. They will even do an equalization charged based on use. A new lift truck battery can run $5-8000 dollars here in Calgary.

I understand the cost of a new battery, but it is not in the cards for me. I have a small personal shop with single phase power, most of the used chargers I see are 3 phase and still expensive as can be. I am not always at my shop and I would like to have a way to turn the charger off after 12 hours, that way if something happens and I can't get back to the shop, I don't have to worry about the battery cooking.

 

[Strouty]

Bzinsky, those are definitely good chargers, but not an easy fit with my charger. I could use a standard timer that goes between the wall outlet and charger, but I wanted to have a clean setup that goes where ever the charger goes. I do occasionally use the same charger for other equipment as well.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

What does the charger draw??

Maybe u could use a contactor with the coil controlled via an electronic timer. Maybe u could even find a timer that is cloud accessible for remote control.

 

[Stuart in MN]

I also have plenty of these and is what I would recommend. No idea what brands I have, but all of them work.
https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/3419/ELEC-T101.html

Mostly used for exterior lighting. They aren't very accurate and can lose track of time over the years, but they never fail to turn the circuit on or off.

Those Intermatic T101 timers have been around since the dinosaurs. They're simple mechanical time clocks, with no electronics to go on the fritz.

 

[iron block]

If you have the panel space to make a Decora-sized light switch cutout, then how about a cheapo digital 12 hour wall timer for $16, driving a solid-state relay for another $12-$13? You will need to run a few wires to interconnect them, but that is pretty simple.

The relay should be plenty beefy to handle your charger's load, I'd think. And it eliminates all the mechanical moving parts so the reliability should be OK with any luck.

Timer: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002C54GH4/ref=psdc_6291360011_t3_B00313JXBA

SSR: https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Single-Phase-24-480V-80-250V/dp/B00E1LBYNQ/ref=sr_1_18?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1483479742&sr=1-18&keywords=solid+state+relay

 

[Strouty]

The battery charger draws 23 amps. To be honest I thought it was less than that since it did not have a fancy plug, but I am sure someone changed it over the years.

 

[bzinsky]

Pretty sure the 23 amp draw is going to eliminate any single gang timer.

 

[cybrdyke]

23 amps is more than most electronic timers can handle. To use any of them, you'd need some kind of relay or contactor to handle switching the load. If you are OK with this, then there are tons of options, including using your phone.
The T101 mentioned above has 40 amp contacts. You can buy just the mechanism, without the box and a bracket to mount it inside another enclosure. HOWEVER, it is only the right timer to do what you want, ifyou want to charge the batteries at the same time of day every time.
Good luck,
CD

 

[wyliesdiesels]

The battery charger draws 23 amps. To be honest I thought it was less than that since it did not have a fancy plug, but I am sure someone changed it over the years.

What kind of plug is on it?

 

[Strouty]

Regular plug that fits a 15 AMP outlet. Never thought much about it, never had an issue with it tripping the 20 AMP circuit.

As for the timer that is 40 AMP, I have used those for water heaters and in this situation it would be a RPITA. I am not afraid to learn about things, so I guess I will have to figure out this. I wanted to refurbish the charger anyways, last year I added a new internal fan, that made a big difference in output. I guess the old fan was not cooling things enough for it to put out the full amperage for any period of time.

 

[matt_i]

Were it me I'd go for what I think is an industrial solution not using components that fit in single gang wall boxes. No offense against anyone but the cost of a bathroom fan not working or lights not going on is less serious than a charging issue.

Personally I'd start with a mini- DIN sized timer

https://www.automationdirect.com/ad...=timer&categoryId=784996&TxnNumber=-1&start=0

using the "off delay" function. Probably have to use the "multi-mode" version and program it for off-delay. Use the 100-240vac input versions to avoid having to integrate a 24vdc power supply. N.O. Pushbutton to start the timing process.

Use the N.O. contact of the timing relay to control the coil of a regular IEC relay that stops power to the charger. 20-40A resistive load should not be too hard to accomodate.

No need to integrate this all into the chassis of the charger. Simply put a NEMA-1 box, hinged or screw-cover on the side and run all wiring directly thru a hub. Or mount the control box on the wall and use EMT or liquidtight.

 

[Strouty]

That is essentially what I was looking for, just wasn't sure where to find it. As far as integrating it into the charger chassis, I definitely want to do that, it will be easier for me and I don't have to worry about another box off the side. There is a lot of room to install things in there.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Regular plug that fits a 15 AMP outlet. Never thought much about it, never had an issue with it tripping the 20 AMP circuit.

As for the timer that is 40 AMP, I have used those for water heaters and in this situation it would be a RPITA. I am not afraid to learn about things, so I guess I will have to figure out this. I wanted to refurbish the charger anyways, last year I added a new internal fan, that made a big difference in output. I guess the old fan was not cooling things enough for it to put out the full amperage for any period of time.

need to change that to a 30a plug and 30a breaker with #10 wire

Thats a continuous load....

 

[Strouty]

So because it is a continuos load, it is less likely to trip a 20 amp breaker?

 

[wyliesdiesels]

So because it is a continuos load, it is less likely to trip a 20 amp breaker?

negative

I imagine 23a is max and it hasnt hit that yet.

do u have a clamp meter?

 

[BillK]

Strouty,
Does the charger actually draw 23 amps or is that the charging current ? If it is the charging current then it probably draws considerably less from the outlet.

That being said .... you need to make sure that the charger you are using will not put a draw on the battery if you turn the power off but do not disconnect it ?

Why not just get a charger that reverts to a trickle charge once the battery is fully charged. I have a small electric forklift and that is how the built in charger works. You can leave it plugged in forever if you want.

 

[doorfx]

^^^^this

 

[Strouty]

I do have a clamp meter.

The charger has a draw of 23 AMPS and puts out a max of 40 or higher, sorry about not being exact on that, I am not near the charger.

I will see if I can find some pictures of it, I think I have some that I uploaded.

 

[Strouty]

No good pictures, just one of the "new" fan I installed to replace the old one.

 

[dw1]

No good pictures, just one of the "new" fan I installed to replace the old one.

What brand of charger is that? did it ever work correctly? I bet you can still get replacement parts for it. Can you post a pic of the controller for it.

 

[Strouty]

I will try and get a better pic of the guts, but I think that is all that is in there. It is old school. I did take a picture of the tag. It looks like it has an equalization setting. Just not sure how often I should actually charge it. I was warned not to charge the battery until it is dead (at least the forklift acts up) otherwise it could do damage to the battery life.

 

[Brandon314159]

I charge my 36V Toyota forklift with a 36V golf-cart charger (as it has flooded cell batteries on board). It has an automatic shut-off and while it won't charge as fast as the big boys, it is perfect for my typical use scenario. It puts out ~25A max at 36V.

I think I have 3 of these chargers now and am happy with them. Attached a photo of a similar one I found online.

 

[Strouty]

I have a 24 volt fancy battery tender, I was going to hook it up to the forklift, but then I put it somewhere and can't find it. Go figure.