Time to build my workbench(es) Need advice

[mike_dmt]

I'm putting together my benches this weekend. My plan is an "L" shaped corner with basically two of what I attached as a reference. Both will be 24" x 96". So, I will have 8' one direction, and 10' the other.

I'm considering building one at 36" tall, and the other at around 40" tall. I'm 6'.

I like the idea of the drawers, and intend to install them coast to coast in the taller of the two benches. I'm not too concerned with what I put up behind them, I sheeted the whole shop area in OSB.

The shop is used for working on my cars.

I'm just looking for any advice that might steer me in a different direction before I start cutting. Thanks in advance!

 

[mike_dmt]

Sorry, bad pic.

 

[mike_dmt]

Well, I didn't get to my workbench today. I was hanging the lights.

Nobody wants to chime in?

 

[MEAKN]

Guess you've already got all your materials, but I usually share something I did when I built mine. I was wondering what to use for a good, strong top. Wandering through H.D. at about that time, I saw 4x8 sheets of T&G, 1 1/8 in. thick plywood used for floor sheeting. That's what I ended up using for the bench tops on mine. This was maybe 5 years ago, and the price at the time was somewhere in the mid $30's for a sheet. I'm really glad I happened to notice it & couldn't be happier with the results.

 

[Mike in Ohio]

I would recommend at least 30 inches deep, mine are 36, but I have some boxes and racks against the wall that gives me about 28 to 30 inches of actual work space. Are the drawers on slides or just fitted into the openings, if fitted they will get hard to open and close if you put anything heavy in them. Check you local lumber yard for solid core doors that were hinged wrong, they make great workbench tops, wood fire doors are the best.

On things like this our advice is worth exactly what you paid for it because we don't know the overall situation, and because our situation is different. More importantly our use priorities may be different than yours. But we got lots of advice!!

 

[250]

My first one was 36 inches deep, but I found this to be a little too deep as it wasn't easy to reach things hanging on the wall behind it. 36 might be ok for you though since you're a bit taller. The one I'm currently working on will be 30.

+1 on the thick ply. I took 3/4 ply and covered it with old oak hardwood flooring that we were taking out. 1 1/2 of sturdy, smooth bench top.

 

[rvieceli]

I'd suggest keeping both benches the same height. It's easier to have work pieces span the surfaces in the shop if the work tops are the same height. It will also make cutting materials a bit easier. I'm 6' 4" and find around 37-38 inches for height to be comfortable for me.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I'd suggest keeping both benches the same height. It's easier to have work pieces span the surfaces in the shop if the work tops are the same height. It will also make cutting materials a bit easier. I'm 6' 4" and find around 37-38 inches for height to be comfortable for me.

I'd agree with keeping them the same height. Personally, I believe mine are 40"tall. However, on my L shaped bench, one side is 36" deep and the other is 24".

I'd also suggest making a cut out area where you can sit at the bench somewhere on a stool.

 

[Cyberbear]

Not knowing the level of expertise you possess or types of work habits, based on the pictures; from past experience I'd recommend a removable 1/4" work surface that can be used both sides if necessary. Also, a firm method of vise support that resists lifting the work top when under duress, and reinforcing the drawers to withstand the battering effects on the drawer front when opened and closed under a load. When in the business I dealt with many such situations needing my repair skills to correct for others. One last thing, make sure the drawer bottoms are equal to the task.

 

[Jackfre]

I think I would suggest that rather than lining the walls with benches that you go a bit slower and see how one on each wall works. I was in a friends shop recently and he had pretty much lined the walls with benches. He wishes he hadn't. being a friend I have offered to assist him in getting rid of some of them. I would make the top much thicker and substantial. OSB doesn't take a beating very well. I would not put the drawer as shown. I think you want to leave that area just below the bench open for clamping. Make a separate drawer assembly that can be moved and set it on the lower shelf. This will give you more flexibility in how you work with your bench. Height, I do like at least a tall section so I'm not bending all the time. Also a vision thing, as your eyes **** out on you. Depth, benches against walls tend to become pretty narrow as "stuff" accumulates against the wall. 30-36 and you may have a 24" open work area. Short shelves above on the wall. I have had good luck with solid wood benches and a tempered hardboard top. When it get beat up, just lift and replace.

 

[mike_dmt]

Great stuff guys, I appreciate it.

I should have listed what I bought for the tops, and that's 3/4" plywood. The sanded type.

I think I will keep them the same height, right around the 36-38 mark. I'll dial that in when it's time.

I do need to decide if I want to leave them as an L shaped corner (where they meet), or, have them **** up to a 45* part of the bench with no lower shelf to accommodate a stool, if that makes sense.

The drawers in the pics weren't designed for slides, and I agree that any sort of weight in them will probably make them kind of a pain to use. So I think if anything, I'll fab up a little rack system that lets me use those smallish plastic bins. Mostly just to keep some hardware close by.

Fortunately I "designed" my shop so that very little will have to be stored on top of the bench itself. Of course, that's impossible, but it sounds good in theory.. I know stuff will end up on there, its inevitable.

Most of my "bench" style tools, i.e.: vise, grinder, drill press, etc, will either be mounted to my (future) welding table, or have their own stands.

 

[mike_dmt]

The second bench or desk is just a reference for what I meant by the 45* corner..

 

[coleman10]

I would recommend at least 30 inches deep, mine are 36, but I have some boxes and racks against the wall that gives me about 28 to 30 inches of actual work space. Are the drawers on slides or just fitted into the openings, if fitted they will get hard to open and close if you put anything heavy in them. Check you local lumber yard for solid core doors that were hinged wrong, they make great workbench tops, wood fire doors are the best.

On things like this our advice is worth exactly what you paid for it because we don't know the overall situation, and because our situation is different. More importantly our use priorities may be different than yours. But we got lots of advice!!

This. I just built one a month or so ago and I made mine 32" deep. I also cut the bottom shelf back just far enough to be able to fit a stool underneath and out of the way. It was a priority for me to be able to sit at the bench. I also put mine on casters because mobility was important to me.

Like Mike in Ohio said, everyone has his own requirements and priorities. I would build one, use it for awhile, see what you like and don't like about it, then build the new and improved v2. Better to build one and realize you need to make a change than to build two and realize it. Just my .02.

 

[mike_dmt]

Between those two posts, I'm wondering if I'd like a 30" tops, and 18" shelves underneath, keeping the "L" shape and leaving the 45* out of it for now. As long as milk crates and the like have somewhere to live, the shelves seem like they would still be deep enough.

 

[mike_dmt]

I intend to make them somewhat modular, in the sense that they will be tied together in a way that I can take them apart, move them, use them separately, or tie them together with another piece.

 

[mike_dmt]

Kind of like this

 

[NUTTSGT]

I'm curious if you found those two corner workbenches with a Google search for "corner workbench" ? I really like that first one that is just framed up.

 

[mike_dmt]

I sure did. I just put in "corner workbench". Thousands came up. I liked the dimensions of the framed one. Not sure I like the idea of hangers along the wall, but it probably works just fine.


Took me a few minutes to find the last one though.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I sure did. I just put in "corner workbench". Thousands came up. I liked the dimensions of the framed one. Not sure I like the idea of hangers along the wall, but it probably works just fine.


Took me a few minutes to find the last one though.

LOL, I thought so. The framed one is mine and you can find more pics of it in my Garage Refub thread. The link is in my sig. You'll find the those bins like you have atttached in my fastener storage under the bench.

Feel free to copy and use any idea you find in that thread.

 

[crab]

Mine are steel, welded together. 24" deep is good for me, really have never needed them any deeper and it saves floor space. I also would have both benches the same height. Steel is the way to go if you can, build them once and you're good for life. I used 3/16 steel plate for the tops, you wont hurt those tops, I don't care how big your hammer is. I weld on occasion so the steel really is a must but it's just better all around. You can weld nuts in the legs and use bolts for levelers.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I measured my benches just before I came in, they are 28" and . . . . I can't believe I forgot the other one already. I think it's 34 or 38.

 

[mike_dmt]

LOL, I thought so. The framed one is mine and you can find more pics of it in my Garage Refub thread. The link is in my sig. You'll find the those bins like you have atttached in my fastener storage under the bench.

Feel free to copy and use any idea you find in that thread.

Ha! Whats the saying, "imitation is the highest form of flattery"?

Well, a job that was supposed to get done this weekend, has again been pushed back a couple of days. In the middle of hanging my 8' strip lights, one of the ballasts was faulty. So I took it down, took it back to HD, only to learn they were out of them...

I did start layout though.

I settled on 30" tops at 38" high, with 18" deep shelves around 14" off the floor.

 

[OJ Bartley]

Mike, I recently build a bench in my garage (link in my sig) and found a lot of the tips here in the various workbench threads very helpful. I was limited by my tiny garage, and the availability of the solid core doors I had for the tops, so mine is I think 22" deep. It might be shallow for some, but in a small single car garage I think it works well. Height is around the standard recommended "height of your wrist when standing". I'm about 6'4" so it might be a bit high for some, but I like it.

the beauty of building your own is that you can totally customize to fit your space and your work habits, so if you can, wait a bit and do some reading up and you'll be happier in the end. If you have to get it done right away then use your instincts and if something seems wrong to you, then change the plan.

Good luck!

 

[Iggi]

Laminate 2x4s vertically to build a butcher block type top. Indestructible and should last forever. Glue and screw together.

 

[metalmagpie]

I built my benches tall. I left 11" of clear space underneath for toolbox storage. Best idea I have had. Stashed are my chainsaw, auto floor jack, and toolboxes containing oxyfuel torches, pipe threading tools, worm drive saw, regular Skilsaw, rotohammer, and two electric die grinders, plus more. A **** load of clutter now neatly tucked away.

metalmagpie

 

[deucenut]

I am going to be building benches in my garage soon so I am watching closely. My father built the benches in his garage approximately 40 years ago. He used steel for the top of the bench. It's about 1/8" or 3/16" thick. It's still there, never had a problem, wipes up fast and easy, doesn't stain, doesn't give him slivers, doesn't dent easily and well, obviously lasts a lifetime. I would (and will) go with steel. JMO

 

[WWShop]

I have one that is 37" tall and is mobile, my other two are stationery. My main bench is 39" tall and my smaller is 41" tall. I made them all this height for specific reasons. The 37" is for my mitre saw and it feels more comfortable to use at this height, my 39" is just to stand and make repairs on things and again feels comfortable and my 41" has my grinder and my vise and I feel I can grind easier with the bench higher. Just my opinion though.

 

[mike_dmt]

Well, here it is. I'm done with it for now.

It already looks crowded.

 

[mike_dmt]

I left an area to sit for any extended period of time. Now I need a cool shop stool.

I also plan to have a mini PC out there so I can get on the 'net if I need. And play videos and music and stuff while I work. I'll mount the monitor right to the wall.

Besides, a quiet shop is creepy.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Looks good. For the shop stool, Cman makes a decent stool that usually goes on sale around Christmas or on Black Friday.

 

[mike_dmt]

Cool. I'll keep an eye out.

 

[coleman10]

Cool. I'll keep an eye out.

It just went on sale yesterday or the day before. 50% off.

 

[rick carpenter]

Well, here it is. I'm done with it for now.

It already looks crowded.

Looks good, but how are you supporting the tops in the corner? I don't see any legs.

 

[Iggi]

Stools with caster are quite handy. You will never go back to stationary stools.

 

[coleman10]

Stools with caster are quite handy. You will never go back to stationary stools.

I'm finding this out myself. Considering cutting my legs off a little and adding casters. Stool legs... Cutting my stool legs off. A little messy the other way.

 

[Kent_B]

"My first one was 36 inches deep, but I found this to be a little too deep as it wasn't easy to reach things hanging on the wall behind it. 36 might be ok for you though since you're a bit taller. The one I'm currently working on will be 30. "

I made mine 16' long and the top is made from 2x12, so it's about33" wide in total. My big mistake was that I assembled the top before I put it up on the bench framework. It was all my son and I could do to hoist that behemoth up there.

 

[egnorant]

Made mine 38" tall and 32" deep. I love the height as I can stand or sit comfortable depending on the job. I had originally planned for a small top box for some tools along the back but didn't like it and pulling open drawers mid project was awkward.

Built in a hangover on one end and the front that will allow my trash can to tuck under for easy wiping off of trash. Plan for good lighting too. I added 2 articulating lamps, one has a magnifier in it ($3.00 garage sale!). Access to a couple of plugs for that soldering iron, Dremel, power tool or whatever.

Got my overkill stout mount for a vise. Still working on a good top material as my 3/4 plywood has gotten a bit rough, burned, chemical stains and gouges, 12x12 piece of 1/4" steel plate floats around for a tough surface and it holds my magnetic trays to keep the little parts from wandering.

Made it free standing so I could rearrange stuff if needed, but I have only moved it 4 feet to the right as I didn't like it so close to the man door. I have casters that would work, but it hasn't become a priority yet.

All the stuff that I thought would be lining the back of the bench always seemed to get in the way eventually. I mounted them to the wall or moved them elsewhere. Top boxesmade way to bolt drawers then shop manuals and radio to now where it is just current project stuff.

Bruce

 

[mike_dmt]

Looks good, but how are you supporting the tops in the corner? I don't see any legs.

Yeah, You mean where they meet? I am hesitant to put a leg in there, just because it would be a pain to reach around.

I stood on the corner(240#), and it seemed pretty solid. I did lag it to the wall, maybe that firmed it up some.


If it starts to sag or get less than solid, I will definitely put a leg there.

TBH, my heavier stuff will be worked on my welding table.

 

[mike_dmt]

Egnorant... My brother had an XR2 when he was first driving. It cost him as much to insure as a new 'Vette since it's a 2 seater... lol