Time to replace my trailer decking

[PassnThru]

Single axle trailer - 10' by 77". Currently has 2X8 PT and was purchased in 2008. Some of the boards have serious rot so I'm looking to replace the decking.
Most likely choice for me at this point is to replace with PT. It's just a utility trailer - no need to get fancy here.
I've pulled one of the original screws and it is a 1/4 by 20 that's 2 inches long. It is a thread through the steel arrangement - no nuts on the other end.
So to begin with, this type of fastener is relatively hard to find. I can order them on Amazon but I'm looking at 200 screws for $20.
Screw Option 1
That's not a bad price, but I don't need 200 screws. Plus, they are a 'plain and oil' finish. Will this hold up to the new pressure treated lumber? I do have the opportunity to order some 2.5 inch plated screws that come in a quantity of 60 and have the words ACQ treated wood in the description - and then no reviews - and double the price.
Pressure treated compatible?
What are your thoughts if you've dealt with trailer decks before.

 

[tab2]

Every trailer or boat I own gets stainless hardware. Shipping might make it not worth it for you. PT is pretty aggressive

https://www.boltdepot.com/Machine_screws.aspx?nv=l

 

[PassnThru]

OK - but on the link you provided the screws I need (type F) were either zinc plated or black phosphate?

 

[brewchief]

I used these when I redecked my trailer, https://www.homedepot.com/p/Teks-12...-Self-Drilling-Screws-40-Pack-21384/100145370

 

[cpttuna]

have you exhausted all your decking options. I have two utility trailers. The floors on both are stainless. Istarted with wood floors. If your trailers are kept outside, mother nature will probably get the better of them. I have picked up scrap stainless for over 30 years. The prices vary but I pick up stuff when it becomes available, hence stainless floors and the smaller of the two trailers is all stainless.

 

[chaosracing]

Check local hardware stores (even ACE Hardware around me has the fasteners your looking for), Fastenal.
As for decking, it all depends on what your doing with it. My dads utility trailer has 2x PT decking on it and I replaced it for him about 18 years ago. I used carriage bolts to hold down since thats what was previously used. It sits outside all the time. Up until last year, every winter he would park it down at the barn and put horse manure in it for my garden. Decking is still good. Now that was the old PT method, so thats probably why its still in great shape. t work, we have two landscape trailers, one with PT decking and the other with rough sawn. The PT deck is in good shape, trailer is about 12 years old, still original deck. Sits outside all the time. The rough sawn is the older one and that deck needs to be replaced this winter. Gonna go back with roughsawn hemlock or oak. It will be treated with Tompsans sealer, then screwed down with the type fastener your looking for.
You could also just get stainless steel carriage bolts and nuts and just bolt it down. Then it would be easy to replace any boards down the road.

 

[Jaja]

I used the same TEKs as "brewchief" but got them at Lowes (was closer) for a trailer I did in the spring.

Getting the old decking off, grinding off all the seized/broken screws and rust repair/painting took the most time.

Those screws were the easiest part of the job.

 

[crf731]

I used these as well. It was at least 10 years ago and they are holding up just fine.

I used these when I redecked my trailer, https://www.homedepot.com/p/Teks-12...-Self-Drilling-Screws-40-Pack-21384/100145370

 

[matt_i]

There is a *lot* of torque on those flathead torx self tappers. With a generic "stainless" I would be worried about twisting them off when trying to send them thru a hole.

Couple of options, however, as I recall its a 1/4-20 thread. So one could drill the holes first, then remove decking in an orderly manner, and last send an actual spiral point/gun-tap thru the hole to create the thread. With some hand-starting, the fastener would not have to "self tap".

I believe that to be more reliable despite the extra work. Alternatively the existing holes could be reused if they were marked from underside and then removed and drilled.

I think if you can source UC4B rated wood (not sure how hard that is in a 2x6) I believe it will last longer than the standard UC4A wood that's available all over everywhere. Have to make a price point judgement if you can find it.

Thompson's water seal is what I use every 2 or so years on my PT deck. Seems to work reasonably well.

If one gets roughsawn oak, the absolute imperative is to make sure its White Oak (which the ancients built oceangoing ships out of). Get Red Oak and it will be rotten in a year....despite sharing the same last name, the species are vastly different in their outdoor performance.

 

[txvwnut]

Go to your local bolt supplier and ask for trailer deck screws. They’re self threading you only have to drill a starter hole for them.

 

[cvairwerks]

I've redone the decks on our trailers a couple of times. Wouldn't worry about going to stainless unless you want a show trailer over a working one. Drive the Torx with an impact and it goes quick. I fastened the deck on the 16 footer in about 20 minutes with an electric drill and an impact.

My 24 foot deck gooseneck is still on it's original deck from when it was build in 1999, and it lives outside, uncovered, year round. It's probably got at least two more years before I'll even have to think about redecking it.

 

[77Birdman]

The tek screws form hd or lowes are ok, or im sure that Fastenal has what you need. I redocked mine with rough sawn oak planks about 2" thick. The cost was much less than treated. I got them from a local hardwood mill. They have lasted about 10 yrs. One of them is starting to rot through, looks like I may get another 2 years out of them.