Time to upgrade my central ac unit.

[Sarki]

This is my go to cheap thermostat Honeywell RTH6450D1009 5-1-1-Day Programmable Thermostat

Brian[/QUOTE]

How bout a WIFI thermostat that's not overly complicated that you can recommend.......anything?

 

[Brian_WK]

This is my go to cheap thermostat Honeywell RTH6450D1009 5-1-1-Day Programmable Thermostat

Brian

How bout a WIFI thermostat that's not overly complicated that you can recommend.......anything?[/QUOTE]

I honestly can't recommend one over another for a WiFi stat. Most of the difficulty​ with the WiFi smart stats is the crazy amount of programming options. Just stay away from the no name brand ones as future support may not exist, expecially if the wifi service is cloud based. The company goes under there goes your WiFi control.

Brian

 

[nut_buster2017]

It may be a little late for my 2 cents, but have you considered a heat pump?

 

[honda1998civic]

Ok looks easy enough but on the new thermostat for the red wire it has a jumpered clip from factory. I took a photo but before I start hooking up I'm going to see if YouTube has some videos on installing. From what I've seen wires have been color coded to the thermostat.

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

Ok looks easy enough but on the new thermostat for the red wire it has a jumpered clip from factory. I took a photo but before I start hooking up I'm going to see if YouTube has some videos on installing. From what I've seen wires have been color coded to the thermostat.

It's just connecting rc and rh so you only need one power wire.

 

[eddieK]

Ok looks easy enough but on the new thermostat for the red wire it has a jumpered clip from factory. I took a photo but before I start hooking up I'm going to see if YouTube has some videos on installing. From what I've seen wires have been color coded to the thermostat.

R is one side of the 24v control circuit. C is the other (don't cross the streams)

RC = control for cooling C
RH = control for heating H

R to Y is cooling
R to G is fan
R to W is heat
C at stat is usually optional, this provides 24v power instead of batteries or in addition to batteries

Just be sure furnace and thermostat wires connected to the certain terminals match. Typically G is green, Y is yellow, R is red, Common (C) is brown or blue.


If the furnace and the ac BOTH have their own transformers you would use them independently. This is rare, I've only seen this when you have radiant floor heat and a central cooling only system. (Mansions)

 

[Brian_WK]

Ok looks easy enough but on the new thermostat for the red wire it has a jumpered clip from factory. I took a photo but before I start hooking up I'm going to see if YouTube has some videos on installing. From what I've seen wires have been color coded to the thermostat.

Im a little late replying but as stated the jumper is only for if you have 2 independent heating cooling systems. Which you don't or your current t-stat wouldn't work.

Swap color to letter and you will be set.

Hope it all turned out well for you.

Brian

 

[honda1998civic]

Well my ac works like it's supposed to. Have not tried furnace yet. I put the red wire to "R" and left the jumper in place from "R" to "RC". Is this what you are describing above that I do not need the jumper?

 

[mrobins297aaa]

Well my ac works like it's supposed to. Have not tried furnace yet. I put the red wire to "R" and left the jumper in place from "R" to "RC". Is this what you are describing above that I do not need the jumper?

nope you need the jumper in there, connect the red wire to R and leave the jumper in there.

 

[honda1998civic]

Roger, roger.....

This is my complete install. P trap was added and new thermostat wire run..

Tested furnace today and also works. Didn't really think about this on my prior furnace but was told this new furnace actually has a purge fan prior to furnace actually igniting outside. Which I thought may be more things that can malfunction later but it makes sense.

And when furnace kicked in it set off my smoke alarms. This pretty common for the first time ignition?

 

[Brian_WK]

Roger, roger.....

This is my complete install. P trap was added and new thermostat wire run..

Tested furnace today and also works. Didn't really think about this on my prior furnace but was told this new furnace actually has a purge fan prior to furnace actually igniting outside. Which I thought may be more things that can malfunction later but it makes sense.

And when furnace kicked in it set off my smoke alarms. This pretty common for the first time ignition?

Kind of odd there is no Drip leg on the gas line in. Also here we are not allowed to use galvanized on the gas piping only black Pipe that may be a regional thing though.

The inducer is there to get more efficiency out of the furnace compared to a natural draft. They usually do a pre and post purge as natural rise alone will not clear a combustion chamber of lingering gas.

Yes the heat exchangers have a oil coating from the manufacturer. It gets burned off the first time it fires.

Brian

 

[mrobins297aaa]

Kind of odd there is no Drip leg on the gas line in. Also here we are not allowed to use galvanized on the gas piping only black Pipe that may be a regional thing though.
The inducer is there to get more efficiency out of the furnace compared to a natural draft. They usually do a pre and post purge as natural rise alone will not clear a combustion chamber of lingering gas.

Yes the heat exchangers have a oil coating from the manufacturer. It gets burned off the first time it fires.

Brian

That's the way it was around here in the Detroit area, you were not allowed to use galv. pipe on gas lines. I'm not sure any more I see more and more gas pipe with galv fittings installed.
The old myth was you couldn't use galv. pipe on gas lines because the galv. would flake off and plug up the orifices. I don't believe that BS, I think it was more likely that all the houses build in the 40's and 50's and some in the 60's had galv. water pipe and they didn't want someone cutting into a gas line and think it was a water line because it was galv. so galv. for water and black for gas. Now we have copper and pex so it's pretty much a non issue.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Galvy is acceptable for natural gas lines by the UPC, but local codes may differ. The gas line definitely needs to be supported/secured and it needs a drip leg, (the galvy elbows should go without it and you really shouldn't mix pipe materials anyway) and the secondary condensate drain needs to be piped in. I'm not too sure about the foil tape on the B-vent either...

Tommy