Tinning stranded wire

[smalltown]

Just purchased some rocker light switches for my garage lighting.
The only switches available had just screw terminals with the push in type for solid wire.

Since I am using stranded wire I wondered if anybody has tried tinning the stranded wires to make it easier keep the strands under the terminal?
(Provided the insulation (THHN) doesn't melt.)

I did read on here a suggestion to cut the insulation back a little from the end to hold the strands in place while wrapping the wire around the post, but won't I be left with a small piece of wire with insulation that needs to be clipped off of each terminal?

 

[toplessHO]

cant you use Sta-kons(forked type crimp connectors)

 

[MFolks]

Why not use the screw terminals with crimp terminals? The forked type with the slight flange ,or without the flange,to prevent vibration from loosening are available.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ZPG3O/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[smalltown]

Been reading old posts and it appears that some swear by the crimp on connector and other frown on them. Just took another look at the triple rocker switches I purchased. They are not a cheap rocker they are made by Leviton. What did surprise me just now was on the rear on the switch embossed in the plastic is the wording "terminals use #12 or #14 solid copper wire only" I not so sure I can find triple rockers with the compression plates, but I'll try. Otherwise I will have 3 pigtails for my lights, 1 pigtail for my power feed and another pigtail for my ground connection in each box. Sounds like a lot in one box.

 

[smalltown]

I see that Home Depot carries a Eaton triple rocker switch that is labeled as having "Backwire clamps on side terminals provide for easy installation of #12 and #14 wire. Sounds like that might be those compression clamps. I'll take a look at those tomorrow AM.
Whoops just noticed they are only available on line.

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

Or just tail them out with a chunk of solid wire for each screw.

 

[Dagny]

can you use a 3 gang box and reg. switches.

 

[Platonic Solid]

How about providing a link to the switch you purchased.

 

[welder4956]

Use these and a short length of solid wire:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ideal-32-Red-In-Sure-2-Port-Connectors-100-Pack-30-1032P/202894308

 

[toplessHO]

I see no reason why a sta-kon cant be used in place of solid wire .
those who frown on them obviously dont have the proper tools or expertise
to use them properly

 

[rlitman]

I see no reason why a sta-kon cant be used in place of solid wire .
those who frown on them obviously dont have the proper tools or expertise
to use them properly

I agree. But you need a proper rated connector. The stuff that comes in the **** assortment kits is usually not acceptable.

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

Why not put a crimp, solder, shrink wrap ring terminal on the ends of the wire? Should be a "sure" connection.

Why are you using stranded wire?

Our motorhome's circuits are all marine grade stranded copper. The converter (Liberty Coach) used high end crimped ring terminals everywhere. A little more time consuming, but should be great connections.

 

[Marctrees]

Whatever you do, do not "Tin"

You end up with a hook that is MUCH harder than you think, the screw will compress for much less contact than you want.

The Experts will chime in, but seriously, just google your question.



**** wisconsin - Nothing wrong w stranded, very commonly used.

Easier to work with, other than termination , BUT only if not planned for overall.

Other than than, Then a great way to go.



Only thing is, IF you use stranded, Ideally then you use devices w terminals that readily accept stranded, unlike the OP rocker switch selection.

He did not do anything "wrong" in anyway, just bought budget price switches, fine overall for his use, just need extra effort at termination. Marc

 

[Marctrees]

**** - It's a frickin Bus, at least probably started as that, maybe not, hopefully so, but If Liberty, probably........... not a "Motorhome".

Not close.

You did something right to be able to put that in your stable. Marc

 

[James-W]

To "tin" copper wire, just strip it back a little ways and use a little electrical solder paste on the bare end of the wire. Then, using a soldering iron and rosin core solder you can "tin" the wire very easily.

 

[smalltown]

Thanks everybody. This morning I called Eaton and asked if the triple rocker switches that they describe as having "back wire clamp" are a compression type connection that will allow me to use 12 Ga. stranded wire without wrapping it around the terminal. A firm yes "provided the stranded wire is not a fine strand".

They are just not in stock locally so I will order them.

Here are the links for those interested. The Leviton I purchased states only solid wire and the second link is the Eaton I will order that will take stranded

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-Decora-15-Amp-3-Rocker-Combination-Switch-White-R62-01755-0WS/100356847


http://www.homedepot.com/p/Eaton-15-Amp-Three-Single-Pole-Combination-Decorator-Light-Switch-White-7729W-SP/203492495?MERCH=REC-_-rv_gm_pip_rr-_-203492495-_-205462265-_-N

I've always used Leviton brand switches, but I imagine the Eaton is a good product and a couple of bucks cheaper. This way I don't have to add pigtails or crimp on a terminal.

Dagny it's got to be triple rockers I'm using three of them in a 4 gang box.
That way I can control my lighting 6 ways from Sunday. Correction make that 9 ways from Sunday !

P.S. Platonic good to see a post from you! It's one of your designs I am creeping toward.

 

[Platonic Solid]

smalltown - The Leviton instructions state: "Side wire terminals accept up to #14-12 AWG wire.Quickwire™ terminals accept #14 AWG solid copper wires ONLY!" Thus, you can use stranded wire on the side wire terminals. Only the Quickwire rear entry holes require solid.

 

[smalltown]

Platonic good catch. I see that in the on line wiring instructions. What I was looking at was the embossed printing on the rear of the switch. "for push in wire use #14 only. For screw terminals use #12 or #14 copper wire only" I called Leviton and told him the on line instruction indicate stranded on the side terminals is ok, but the actual embossing on the switch rear states solid wire only.

He was surprised, but said I could use stranded on the side terminals.

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

**** - It's a frickin Bus, at least probably started as that, maybe not, hopefully so, but If Liberty, probably........... not a "Motorhome". Not close. You did something right to be able to put that in your stable. Marc

Thanks for the compliment Marc. Got a good education (at an excellent public college). Had good jobs and worked hard. I've never owned a new car. Always bought much less house than I could afford. Made the max 401k contribution and lived on the rest. Always took reasonably priced vacations and never over extended myself. Now I'm enjoying the end result of all of that. You're right ... to call it a "motorhome" understates it.

Sorry to high jack the thread.

 

[EOC_Jason]

I did read on here a suggestion to cut the insulation back a little from the end to hold the strands in place while wrapping the wire around the post, but won't I be left with a small piece of wire with insulation that needs to be clipped off of each terminal?

Not if you do it right, you want to leave the insulation on the tip so it doesn't fray out.

An easier solution is to twist the strands CCW.

 

[theoldwizard1]

This morning I called Eaton and asked if the triple rocker switches that they describe as having "back wire clamp" are a compression type connection that will allow me to use 12 Ga. stranded wire without wrapping it around the terminal. A firm yes "provided the stranded wire is not a fine strand".

I concur, this is the best way to go, BUT ...

smalltown - The Leviton instructions state: "Side wire terminals accept up to #14-12 AWG wire.Quickwire™ terminals accept #14 AWG solid copper wires ONLY!" Thus, you can use stranded wire on the side wire terminals. Only the Quickwire rear entry holes require solid.

Sigh !

 

[toplessHO]

I normally twist the stranded tighter before terminating
stripping the ends normally removes some of the twist and a tighter twist
keeps single strands from popping out from behind the plate or screw

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

Not if you do it right, you want to leave the insulation on the tip so it doesn't fray out.

Huh. Is that why I often see wire on new fixtures, lights, and stuff with a little insultation on the end and the insulation stripped back? I guess I can learn something every day!

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

Not if you do it right, you want to leave the insulation on the tip so it doesn't fray out.

An easier solution is to twist the strands CCW.

 

[sberry]

2 things, lights are not usually heavily loaded but,,,, this is done millions of times a day. Strip the wire long enough, twist left hand and form it around the screw with a snug pull and tighten.
I own hundreds of recepts wired this way and have installed 1000's, never had one fail from this.