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Tipping a Compressor Over

tmcquinn

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I would love to have a better compressor but this is what I have. After 20 years with a Craftsman oil free unit it's a joy to use.

The manual says, "Always transport and store unit in an upright position." But now the valve on the bottom won't close. I want to replace it with something I can get a grip on anyway. So what precautions do I need to take to tip it on its side and work on it?



husky-30-gal-air-compressor-c302h.jpg
 
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tmcquinn

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I'll be dipped. I called the 800 number and they had English speaking people who knew the answer. Either I've had a really bad run with 800 numbers or this is my lucky day.

They're worried about getting oil into the cylinder. They said drain the oil, tilt it over, fix it, then tilt it back up and refill the oil.
 

Todd.Brock

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Tip it over as little as you need to replace the valve. like at a 45 degree angle. If you need to tip it all the way over sideways for an extended period , you could drain the oil into a clean container and refill when you are done. You should be fine which ever way you choose. They just want to make sure all the oil is at the bottom of the pump.

Since you have it out, put a 90 in the tank and then astraight section of pipe with a ball valve so you can drain condensation without tipping it over.
 

jfrey123

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Sparks, NV
Can you lift it up high enough to replace the valve? When I replaced the valve on my CF compressor I just did it with it standing in it's home. Not sure why anyone would "need" to tip it for a valve change (assuming it's just the standard style drain that comes off and goes on with a wrench).
 

Bigblockyeti

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If you're quick, I wouldn't be too worried about tipping it on it's side just for the couple minutes that repair should take. I would be careful to make sure the breather is still on the high side. I'll second installing a 90° then ****** to a ball valve, much easier to drain!
 
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tmcquinn

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I do want to put a ball valve on it. What's there now was a complete pain even when it worked. I can barely get my hand under there and I'm not a big guy.

I should be fine now if I can find the parts I need.
 

C.L S2000

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LB, CA
I would love to have a better compressor but this is what I have. After 20 years with a Craftsman oil free unit it's a joy to use.

The manual says, "Always transport and store unit in an upright position." But now the valve on the bottom won't close. I want to replace it with something I can get a grip on anyway. So what precautions do I need to take to tip it on its side and work on it?



husky-30-gal-air-compressor-c302h.jpg

I have a 20 Gallon Husky with this exact same problem. Let me know which type of valve you end up going with to replace. I am looking for different ideas for easier access and more durability.
 
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tmcquinn

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I have a 20 Gallon Husky with this exact same problem. Let me know which type of valve you end up going with to replace. I am looking for different ideas for easier access and more durability.

Wilco. Unless regular old plumbing parts are unacceptable for air I'm thinking about something cheap and easy like this guy did.

 

sz0k30

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That's all you need. A 90 deg fitting, a length of pipe & a ball valve. I did mine just like that & I'd guess that a whole bunch are done the same way.
 

sberry

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Is this going in a heated garage? If not drain it a shot after using in cold weather so it doesn't have water standing in steel pipe or valves you add. With the old petcock style it didn't matter much. A little icing in the bottom of the tank didn't hurt.
 

vavet

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Ashland, VA
I bought this exact model a couple weeks ago for work. One of my techs was also having trouble with the drain valve. He was turning it the wrong way....and he turned it the wrong way really tightly. Once I figured that out, it worked fine.
I agree though, it’s very low and difficult to reach.

I love how quiet the compressor is. We can literally stand around it and have a conversation. With my oil free craftsman, I can’t even hear myself think when it’s running.
 

ttpete

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I'd just slide a nylon sling between the compressor base plate and the top of the tank and pick it up with my engine hoist far enough to get at the drain.
 
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anndel

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I have the same compressor and I tipped mine a little and leaned it against the wall to replace the drain valve on the bottom of the tank.
 

Reno4u2

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Las Vegas, NV
I do want to put a ball valve on it. What's there now was a complete pain even when it worked. I can barely get my hand under there and I'm not a big guy.

I should be fine now if I can find the parts I need.

Any home store like Lowes, HDepot, Menards will have the valves and fittings.
Remove your old valve and take it with you. Also if clearance is tight you may have to raise the air compressor an inch or so. I have since replaced the 2x4's with anti-vibration pads....
 

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unslow1

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I've tipped mine over and transported it in the back of a truck multiple times. It still runs fine after nearly 20 years. I have one of the Craftsman 40GL 110V. I also put it on it's side every time I drain it to get to the valve.
 

bagged89s10

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I just brought this husky home and had to tip it on its side to fit under my truck cap. What precautions should I take before running it for 20 min to break it in. My plan is to change the oil once I break it in but don’t want to fry the pump.
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tmcquinn

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If what they told me on the phone is true, that the concern is that oil gets into the heads, then I would think if you could rotate the pulleys by hand through a couple of cycles you would prove that there wasn't enough oil in there to be a problem. I am, however, just guessing.
 

Citation

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If you don't have oil in it don't worry (or run it). If you have oil in it wait say 48 hours to let everything drain back to the sump. Check the oil level and go.
 
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tmcquinn

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Today is the day for the new valve if I can get the parts. I was making a big deal out of nothing. I rolled the compressor onto a couple of 2x6 scraps and it was nothing to get the old valve out safely.

I'm going to come clean on something I've never been good at. I will be screwing a 90 degree elbow into the bottom of the tank to I can put a ball valve out where I can get to it. How in the hell do I arrange it so that it doesn't leak when it's pointed in the direction I want it to go? I have always struggled with this, all the way back to exhausts on a minibike when I was a kid. Do I use Teflon tape to control where it's tight? I don't know much but I remember from the 70s what happens when you overtighten a pipe thread and I don't intend to overdo it either.
 

Boilerhouse

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I will be screwing a 90 degree elbow into the bottom of the tank to I can put a ball valve out where I can get to it. How in the hell do I arrange it so that it doesn't leak when it's pointed in the direction I want it to go? I have always struggled with this, all the way back to exhausts on a minibike when I was a kid. Do I use Teflon tape to control where it's tight? I don't know much but I remember from the 70s what happens when you overtighten a pipe thread and I don't intend to overdo it either.

I find there is a lot of "wiggle room" from where a fitting will leak, to where it has been over-tightened. You really only need it a little more than snug. I would use 2 or 3 wraps of tape, hand tighten till it stops, use a wrench to rotate it to position, then give one more full rotation. If it does not feel tight enough, give it one more full rotation.
 
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tmcquinn

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I said I would write an update when I was done...

Nothing to it. Well, not if you limit yourself to off the shelf parts from the big box store and questionable quality. :) If memory serves, it's ok to mix dissimilar metals with brass but this whole mess is expendable.

I brought it off to the side so it wouldn't drag the floor when the compressor is moved. The elbow at the open end serves little purpose other than eye protection. I thought I would have to rig up a little bracket to hold it but it seems pretty solid.

20180305_155147a.jpg
 

bagged89s10

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I said I would write an update when I was done...



Nothing to it. Well, not if you limit yourself to off the shelf parts from the big box store and questionable quality. :) If memory serves, it's ok to mix dissimilar metals with brass but this whole mess is expendable.



I brought it off to the side so it wouldn't drag the floor when the compressor is moved. The elbow at the open end serves little purpose other than eye protection. I thought I would have to rig up a little bracket to hold it but it seems pretty solid.



20180305_155147a.jpg



Good call putting it to the side.
 

Lelandwelds

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I'd just slide a nylon sling between the compressor base plate and the top of the tank and pick it up with my engine hoist far enough to get at the drain.

+ 1. ditto. I agree. Yeppers.

Need more than four characters? Lol. I am not surprised I have never seen that error message.
 

Lelandwelds

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I said I would write an update when I was done...

Nothing to it. Well, not if you limit yourself to off the shelf parts from the big box store and questionable quality. :) If memory serves, it's ok to mix dissimilar metals with brass but this whole mess is expendable.

I brought it off to the side so it wouldn't drag the floor when the compressor is moved. The elbow at the open end serves little purpose other than eye protection. I thought I would have to rig up a little bracket to hold it but it seems pretty solid.

20180305_155147a.jpg
Looks good.

An acquaintance used copper line for his. He thought it funny to run it up to the pump and bend it 90° so it could be sprayed at first time visitors.
 
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