Tips and Tricks for Pressing Out Ball Joints?

[gpalmer77]

So I picked up a 20 ton press from Harbor Freight. The steering knuckle is off the front of the Excursion and I'm ready to press out the ball joints and press in the new Moog problem solvers.

I have all the cups and adapters in the right sizes.

Any tips and tricks to make this job easier? My biggest unknown is how to line up the knuckle underneath the center of the press and how to best support it in the right place. Is a second set of hands a good idea for this work?

I already have the new Moogs in the freezer.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Nelkcots]

Call a friend and supply the beer. A second set f hand definitly makes it easier in my experiences.

 

[oldtools]

Some ball joint also have a retaing ring to help hold it to the knuckle. Make sure the retaing ring is removed before pressing out the ball joint.

 

[gpalmer77]

Some ball joint also have a retaing ring to help hold it to the knuckle. Make sure the retaing ring is removed before pressing out the ball joint.

The lower ball joint has a retaining snap ring, I got that already. Upper looks to be free and clear.

Thanks for the heads up though, sometimes it is hard to see stuff like that when it is buried in old grease and gunk.

 

[gpalmer77]

Call a friend and supply the beer. A second set f hand definitly makes it easier in my experiences.

10-4. Beer is a useful tool.

 

[Professur]

Apply light pressure and tap the side. works far better than just trying to drive it in by main force.

 

[justanengineer]

I wouldnt use a hydraulic press to press out ball joints, too easy to apply too much pressure and bend a control arm, plus it means you have to remove the arm to do so. Also, since you bought the Moog Problem Solvers, I assume you checked to ensure a stock ball joint wont fit right?

 

[TwoInch]

moog problem solvers are not oversized or special. they are just another brand marketing ploy

 

[Geurt]

I once tried to press out a ball joint from a Volkswagen trailing arm. Used a 10 ton press. I got scared when the press hit 9 tons and nothing happend. I stopped and got a tip from someone who didn't had a press. All you need is a grinder and a welder.

First cut the cap that holds the ball stud in the joint, indicated in red.

Once the cap is out of the way you can knock the ball stud out. Clean out the grease. Now slowly lay a nice weld bead on the inside of the ball seat. Here is an example from a wheel bearing I recently replaced.

When the weld cools it contracts the bearing or the joint. It is than very easy to knock it out with a hammer.

Pressing in is much easier. As long as you line it up nicely, you don't need much pressure. I always use an old (****** chinese) set of sockets. The bigger once always make for nice adapters.

 

[Chris Stapley]

As a matter of fact the welding trick usually contracts the race so much they will generally fall out in your hand without any force what so ever... Great way to remove races and sleeved with a tolerance fit...

 

[gpalmer77]

moog problem solvers are not oversized or special. they are just another brand marketing ploy

I didn't think it would "solve my problem", more that Moog seems to be a respectable brand for front end parts.

The problem is more likely Ford engineering and my wife's method of beating the pi$$ out of large trucks. Still, 140k miles is not bad.

 

[gsmornot]

Lower ball joint? I remove the clip and hit it a few times with a hammer and it pops right out the bottom. Press the new in and put the clip on. Guess I do it that way because I don't have a press.

 

[justanengineer]

moog problem solvers are not oversized or special. they are just another brand marketing ploy

Horse turds. Its common knowledge and a fully admitted fact by Federal Mogul parent company of Moog, hence the "Problem Solver" line name - it "solves" the problem of worn ball joint tapers. I recently cussed out one of the FM engineers I regularly work with bc of those dam things. On my S10, the Problem Solvers are ~15 thou over which may not seem like a lot until the joint doesnt come within .5" of seating properly. If an idiot tech/inexperienced amateur hits that with a hydraulic press there is a very good chance they will be doing serious damage, even with the stock seriously overbuilt A-arms.

Stock S10 ball joint.


Problem Solver.

 

[Trash Mech]

Horse turds. Its common knowledge and a fully admitted fact by Federal Mogul parent company of Moog, hence the "Problem Solver" line name - it "solves" the problem of worn ball joint tapers. I recently cussed out one of the FM engineers I regularly work with bc of those dam things. On my S10, the Problem Solvers are ~15 thou over which may not seem like a lot until the joint doesnt come within .5" of seating properly. If an idiot tech/inexperienced amateur hits that with a hydraulic press there is a very good chance they will be doing serious damage, even with the stock seriously overbuilt A-arms.

Stock S10 ball joint.


Problem Solver.

You don't press the taper in, the pressing refers to the cup into the control arm or knuckle.

 

[OccupantRJ]

See

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_en1/MOOG_PS_Bulletin_29009_K8695T006_En.pdf

 

[yogitech]

You need a ball joint press and adapters. Good luck doing it with a shop press... I've done hundreds of these jobs before without any issues using my OTC press. It's not hard at all, and it payed big money too...!

 

[diesel research]

Horse turds. Its common knowledge and a fully admitted fact by Federal Mogul parent company of Moog, hence the "Problem Solver" line name - it "solves" the problem of worn ball joint tapers. I recently cussed out one of the FM engineers I regularly work with bc of those dam things. On my S10, the Problem Solvers are ~15 thou over which may not seem like a lot until the joint doesnt come within .5" of seating properly. If an idiot tech/inexperienced amateur hits that with a hydraulic press there is a very good chance they will be doing serious damage, even with the stock seriously overbuilt A-arms.

you are confused, plain and simple. The "problem solver" is not any one particular modification. year/make/model specific. in some cases it might be an oversized taper. in others it may be a metal upgraded bushing over the factory plastic. or adjustable component over oe non adjustable.

if s10 control arms have a tendency to wear out, then they may apply that mod to s10s (i didnt specifically check). if you used a specific oversize problem solver on a non-worn control arm, that is your own fault. Other s10 problem solvers are standard size but upgraded materials/construction.

 

[justanengineer]

You don't press the taper in, the pressing refers to the cup into the control arm or knuckle.

Whoops...you caught me. Thats what I get for getting cocky, I grabbed the wrong pics out of my email.

 

[Farmall450]

I didn't think it would "solve my problem", more that Moog seems to be a respectable brand for front end parts.

The problem is more likely Ford engineering and my wife's method of beating the pi$$ out of large trucks. Still, 140k miles is not bad.

Definitely Ford Engineering.

 

[allinon72]

Fords don't really need 20 tons of pressure, and its easier if you leave the arm on, but since you already removed them I guess it's too late. The freezer trick works well though so you have that in your favor.

 

[TwoInch]

Horse turds. Its common knowledge and a fully admitted fact by Federal Mogul parent company of Moog, hence the "Problem Solver" line name - it "solves" the problem of worn ball joint tapers. I recently cussed out one of the FM engineers I regularly work with bc of those dam things. On my S10, the Problem Solvers are ~15 thou over which may not seem like a lot until the joint doesnt come within .5" of seating properly. If an idiot tech/inexperienced amateur hits that with a hydraulic press there is a very good chance they will be doing serious damage, even with the stock seriously overbuilt A-arms.

wrong. like most all ball joint companies, they make standard sized, and oversized for damaged control arms. has zero to do with the "moog problem solver" brand name.

look it up.

they also make pretty much all suspension part under the problem solver brand. just used some sway end links just a couple weeks ago. standard size

 

[theknurl]

~ 25 years ago i put F body disc brake knuckles on my '66 El Camino work truck........
i called Moog and got the tech man

"the F body knuckles have a different taper than your '66, use a #*** ball joint.....its 0.040 oversize but Moog ball joints are strong....so are Chevy A arms, just stuff it in there"

130,000mi of suckering Porsches etc into trying to match me crossing crowned intersections ......my front end is fine...
OK, the cross member is flattened out
and i've ripped the 1 1/4" sway bar out of the frame
by hitting speed bumps at 70mph

maybe its those 600inlb springs up front and ~535 lbft in 3215lbs?????

 

[FunkyfullWidth]

sometimes the best way to pop ball joints out is with a BFH... I bent a napa ball joint tool twice on removal, since then I only hammer them out... as long as your aim is good. a nice ball peen. Or put the ball peen on the ball joint and hit it hammer to hammer.

 

[MattPersman]

"Rent" a ball joint press or bring the knuckles to the side of your ford dealer talk to a few techs and offer 20-50 bucks to pop them out and in while you wait. I would do it if you brought them to me. It makes quick work with the snap on BJP1

 

[Montysmith]

you are right it always works as is working well in my case .. don't know what the other experiences are but surely will turn favorable if you go with the suggestion..

 

[gpalmer77]

You need a ball joint press and adapters. Good luck doing it with a shop press... I've done hundreds of these jobs before without any issues using my OTC press. It's not hard at all, and it payed big money too...!

I have an OTC press, and all the necessary adapters per OTC and Moog instructions. OTC press was not budging it, even with an impact. Maybe more to do with the fact that I have no place to mount it (vise etc) that is strong enough to get enough torque with a breaker bar.

I weighed up the need for a 20 ton press, and it is a tool I will use again to make life easier on jobs that I've done with sledgehammers before.

 

[gpalmer77]

"Rent" a ball joint press or bring the knuckles to the side of your ford dealer talk to a few techs and offer 20-50 bucks to pop them out and in while you wait. I would do it if you brought them to me. It makes quick work with the snap on BJP1

I did weigh up the option of taking the knuckles into a shop and paying a guy to press them out and in. The $150 I paid for the press was worth it for me, as it is a tool I'll use again. I do a decent amount of work on BMWs, this was the first time I've done anything quite this heavy duty. The press will pay for itself though.

 

[gpalmer77]

Lower ball joint? I remove the clip and hit it a few times with a hammer and it pops right out the bottom. Press the new in and put the clip on. Guess I do it that way because I don't have a press.

Actually, funny you should say that. I did the lower first, and not having a good "feel" for the press yet I got a little pressure on it before taking it out side and breaking the sieze with a BFH on the lawn. ;-)

I grew a set for the upper ball joint and popped it in the press.

Both upper and lower ball joints are shot, obvious play when moved by hand.

 

[gpalmer77]

Fords don't really need 20 tons of pressure, and its easier if you leave the arm on, but since you already removed them I guess it's too late. The freezer trick works well though so you have that in your favor.

Leave the arm on? No, the ball joints are pressed into the knuckle on the Ford 2WD trucks. You have to pull the knuckle off to press the ball joints out. The "control arm" as I would call it, is still on the truck, as it the i-beam. I am not doing those..... just upper and lower ball joints in the knuckle.

 

[gpalmer77]

Thanks for all the advice guys, as you can see from the above posts, it went well.

I got the press set up with moderate pressure, then a little heat on the knuckle, followed by Kroil as it cooled. Did this a few times with increasing pressure. Did bail and break the lower ball joint seize outside with a sledge, then put it back in the press. Upper ball joint popped in the press with fire, Kroil and a bigger set of balls.

Now I need to clean up the knuckle and press the Moogs in.

 

[gsmornot]

Sounds good. My last set was a Ford Explorer. I replaced the whole arm on the top and like I said just popped the bottom out with a hammer leaving the arm on the truck. Pressed in the bottom with the rental tool from Autozone. Overall both sides went quickly and led to the discovery of worn inner tie rods and an alignment but after it was done it was a much better feel when driving. The Explorer is gone now but I put about 10k on it before trade in.

 

[gpalmer77]

Sounds good. My last set was a Ford Explorer. I replaced the whole arm on the top and like I said just popped the bottom out with a hammer leaving the arm on the truck. Pressed in the bottom with the rental tool from Autozone. Overall both sides went quickly and led to the discovery of worn inner tie rods and an alignment but after it was done it was a much better feel when driving. The Explorer is gone now but I put about 10k on it before trade in.

I found that my tie rods could do with replacement too, so I will be doing that also, as well as the originally planned rotors, pads, calipers, bearings, sway bar end links and bushings etc.

Also considering doing radius arm and axle pivot bushings while I have everything apart.

Plan is to keep the truck as our family-mobile for the foreseeable future, so it is worth doing right.

 

[gpalmer77]

Update: Both sides done, new ball joints pressed in and knuckles back on the truck with new camber adjusters, new rotors/bearings, pads and brake hoses and rebuilt calipers. New sway bar links too. Just need to replace the tie rods, and replace the rear brakes and lines.

3 out of the 4 ball joints in the knuckles were bad, loose in the socket bad. All three tie rod ball joints were shot too. Sway bar link bushings were cracked, one of them was completely missing.

Hoping this truck rolls like new by the end of the week.

 

[jfcasey]

I once tried to press out a ball joint from a Volkswagen trailing arm. Used a 10 ton press. I got scared when the press hit 9 tons and nothing happend. I stopped and got a tip from someone who didn't had a press. All you need is a grinder and a welder.

First cut the cap that holds the ball stud in the joint, indicated in red.

Once the cap is out of the way you can knock the ball stud out. Clean out the grease. Now slowly lay a nice weld bead on the inside of the ball seat. Here is an example from a wheel bearing I recently replaced.

When the weld cools it contracts the bearing or the joint. It is than very easy to knock it out with a hammer.

Pressing in is much easier. As long as you line it up nicely, you don't need much pressure. I always use an old (****** chinese) set of sockets. The bigger once always make for nice adapters.

I've had good luck doing something similar.. only in my case most of the time when I knock the ball out the whole joint will come out with it.

 

[gpalmer77]

Okay, truck is back on the road with new ball joints, rotors, pads, calipers, hoses and hard lines, front bearings, sway bar links and tie rods. Rides way better, but still not quite right..... I'm thinking radius arm bushings and I-beam bushings.

Truck feels very stable turning right, but less so turning left..... when the right side loads up it feels like it is washing away..... I-beam bushing maybe? I didn't take a good look at them while I was under there, I should. It is not bad, but I notice $hit like that.

New brakes work great..... old rear calipers were rusted to the point that the pads were jamming up in the slides, and the inside rear pad on one side had basically disintegrated and was down to the backing plate, with the rivet gouging a giant groove in the back of the rotor. Nice. I used Ate rotors in all four corners, with Akebono ceramic pads.

Any advice on the radius arm / I-beam bushing replacement for the 2WD much appreciated.

 

[jfcasey]

Don't take it offensively, but did you get an alignment done after you replaced the tie rods and ball joints? If you have screwed up toe from replacing the tie rods and eyeballing it, that would make for some goofy turns.

 

[wafrederick]

An alignment is a must.There are some Ford ball joints you replace the whole upper control arm.1997 to 2003 F150s,the Crown Vics,Town Cars and Grand Marquises.Even the explorer and rangers.

 

[gpalmer77]

I have a home-made alignment "rig" that gets me close enough until I can verify that all the suspect components have been replaced. Based on subsequent shop alignment, I get pretty close with it, I've never been outside of factory tolerances with a truck.

I found a pretty good DIY on the axle pivot bushings replacement, and it looks like it can be done on the truck with the OTC press I already have.

 

[volaredon]

I did weigh up the option of taking the knuckles into a shop and paying a guy to press them out and in. The $150 I paid for the press was worth it for me, as it is a tool I'll use again. I do a decent amount of work on BMWs, this was the first time I've done anything quite this heavy duty. The press will pay for itself though.

this on an Excursion? never needed my press for those just a 3 lb sledge, a ball peen and an OTC ball joint press for the install, you don't have to hold the ball joint press in a vise or nothing like that especially if the control arms are still bolted to the truck
only time I put the BJ press in a vise is when I use it for U joints

I have a 12T press I mostly use for mower deck spindle bearings

 

[MG44]

You can do ball joints on a shop press but why make the job more difficult? Go to harbor freight and pickup a ball joint press kit for $50 or so.

I have a 30 Ton shop press that sits in the corner of the shop and rarely gets used. We use the HF BJ Press kit on ALL of our ball joints and we do a lot of ball joints.

We don't even use the shop press for wheel bearings anymore. The Hub tammer tools and slide hammer are so much easier. No need to try and level the parts on the press.