Tips for drywalling around garage door track

[notquitegto]

I'm trying to keep my planning one step ahead of my action.

My garage door tracks and opener are hung with the typical perforated angle pieces. There is a horizontal one attached to the ceiling joist with two vertical drops that for an angle where they meet the door track. How did you guys drywall around this stuff? Has anyone removed it and reinstalled/readjusted on top of the drywall? I don't thing that would be the smartest way to go, but I'm sure I'm not the only one who has had this problem.

Thanks,
Mike

 

[rsanter]

install a wood edge trim that will have the back relieved where needed to fit over the brackets. hold this piece in with screws in case it ever has to be removed if you have to replace or work on the track system.
drywall up to the wood trim.

bob

 

[nate379]

Remove and reinstall after your done.

 

[Bull]

install a wood edge trim that will have the back relieved where needed to fit over the brackets. hold this piece in with screws in case it ever has to be removed if you have to replace or work on the track system.
drywall up to the wood trim.

bob

I have the same question as the OP, and I like this answer.

 

[Zeke]

I don't know what he means by "wood trim," but I'd screw a block like a 2x 4 on the bottom of the joist that the drywall will attach to. Then I'd cut the angles so they don't intrude into the drywall plane. Bringing dw tight to the block should not be difficult. There are probably half a dozen ways to terminate the angles at the new ceiling height.

The problem with running the angles back through the dw is that you have to get above the dw to reinstall the lags. The coolest thing I have seen is a suspended ceiling. Lighter and faster and you can always service the topside. One fellow had his angles going through the ceiling tiles as neat as you could get. He probably marked out the entry point and used a rotozip to cut the tile at an angle for the angle strut. I didn't see him do the sjob.

 

[ripsnortMN]

I just did this. Just take them down,hang your drywall and put them back up. For me it was the easiest and cleanest look in the end.

 

[notquitegto]

For those of you who removed the supports, how did you deal with the new geometry now that you, in a sense, lowered the tracks 1/2-5/8 of an inch, depending on the thickness of the drywall.

Thanks for the great replies!!
Mike

 

[Kirkz28]

I used OSB instead of drywall, but I left the supports fastended to the joists, cut the osb as tight as I could to the supports, then I just sprayed that expanding foam in a can around the supports. Once it hardened I trimmed it with a knife, then painted it. Good enough for me.

 

[ddawg16]

For those of you who removed the supports, how did you deal with the new geometry now that you, in a sense, lowered the tracks 1/2-5/8 of an inch, depending on the thickness of the drywall.

Thanks for the great replies!!
Mike

Your brackets should have bolts on them that allow you to move the rails in and out....just re-adjust the depth.

In my case, I planned the drywall and framing arond the door such that the rails attach directly to a 2x4 and the drywall butts up against the 2x4.

 

[jdkenyon]

I measured from the wall for proper side to side spacing and then removed the brace from the ceiling. After the drywall I re-hung the brackets and adjusted the height appropriately for the drywall thickness.