tips for hydraulic hose replacement

[inphx]

I have a 15 year old SkyTrack telehandler and i need to replace 6 hose sets.

Up until last week it was optional - but now i have a leak and since i already purchased hoses its time to take care of it.

When last i tried to muscle the fittings using a flare wrench they didn't seem to budge.

I saw some you tube videos where the person cuts the hose and puts a socket on the fitting with risk of dirt in lines.

I read elsewhere to use pb blaster for 15 to 20 minutes.

Any tips?

I'm sure i can cheater bar to point it will let go or "fail".

 

[plinker]

You dont need flare nut wrenches, normal open end is what you need. If they are really stuck on good, Take an air hammer with a dull/rounded chisel bit and use it to his the corner of the swivel nut (think flank drive socket corner). That will loosen the fitting enough to then use a wrench to remove.

 

[SAATR]

Yeah, you don't need flare nut wrenches at all. The fittings will be steel, and if they won't initially budge, a couple of sharp blows with a small hammer to the flats should help break them free. I have some cheap open end wrenches that I use to break especially stubborn hoses. Just put the wrench on the fitting and give it a solid whack with a 2lb deadblow and they come right off. Penetrating oil can help, but I generally don't have that kind of time.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

 

[inphx]

Thanks guys! I recall old fuel line fittings seemingly made of lead when when i try to put torque on them.

 

[blindley]

I'd replace the elbows along with the hoses. If you've gotta beat on them that hard to break them free then the 37 degree flare surface might be galled and your new hose won't seal. It might be easier to cut the hose off and back the elbow out than to unscrew the hose fitting. Be sure to clean a big area around those ports and put your new elbows in as soon as you take the old ones out so you don't get dirt in your cylinder. While you're at it, take a look at the fittings at the other ends of the hoses. Remember they are just as old as these.

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

I'd at the very least try hard to counterhold the 90's when whacking anything.
My experience with penetrating oils is that if 20 minutes is good, 2 days is better.

 

[plinker]

I dont know that I'd replace the 90* fittings unless the flare is bad, the O-ring on the fitting I would defiantly replace either way.

 

[inphx]

I didn't see O rings in the parts diagram - are these integrated in the hose ends?

 

[aircommuter]

They are just stock "O" rings for those fittings. If you do not have a leak at that point and you do not move the fitting they should not be a problem. Check a place called Surplus Center for info and fittings or hoses. Ialways made my own hoses until I found the ones they have for the price. I still have to make some for my metric equipment as they do not have them yet.

 

[EdT]

The fittings could be either SAE o-ring ports or, possibly, pipe threads. It's a fairly new machine so odds are that they are SAE ports. If you look at the elbow where it meets the cylinder, the SAE ports will typically have a small washer and a nut on the shoulder of the fitting where pipe thread fittings do not have the washer/nut. The threads are likely 9/16-18 for the SAE straight threaded ports and "1/4" pipe" for the pipe threads. While the pipe threads are also, nominally, 9/16-18 they are,of course, tapered. While either fitting type will sorta thread into the hole for the other type, they are not interchangeable. The SAE 0-ring fitting is way better than pipe thread fittings in my experience.

 

[joe49]

http://www.parker.com/literature/Bulletin%20C4400-A%20UK%202008-06-04.pdf

There are many types of fittings. Over view begins on page 28.

 

[Heavy Metal Doctor]

Put a little heat on the hose ends and they'll come right off.

If you don't move the elbow going into the cylinder, then there's no reason to replace the o-ring on that port. If you feel you want to just to be safe, then get the appropriate kit from a hydraulics supply. Take a fitting in and match it up to get the right type -- I cant tell you the number of fights I have had with customers who install hardware-store / home plumbing o-rings and swear the continued leak must be some other deeper issue.

Even if the hose connection side of the elbow is corroded / galled up a little, there may be a repair seal or sort of a "crush washer" type of thing that can be slipped in to seal it up to save the extra parts / money.

 

[aircommuter]

I guess there was a misunderstanding when I said stock "O" rings, I meant for SAE fittings as shown in the picture. Nothing to do with hardware store type. The elbow in the picture is SAE on the cylinder and JIC on the hose end.

 

[inphx]

I see - wikipedia says for JIC "As with other flared connection systems, the seal is achieved through metal-to-metal contact between the finished surface of the fitting nose and the inside diameter of the flared tubing." Thanks!

 

[Pipe]

It has all been covered but a little heat...counter pressure... and/or hitting a wrench with a dead blow will do it.

A small trick if you don't already know is index the counter pressure wrench and the loosening wrench so they are within a palm grip and squeeze. I can't count the number of times I have seen people pulling on a fitting at 12 and say 5 oclock.

 

[brownbagg]

call a mechanic

 

[BD1]

I replaced hoses and 90 degree angle fittings on my JD loader. My ANGLE fittings are 3/8 NPT, regular pipe thread. Yours may not have a ''O'' ring but a washer that fits on the thread. Call parts supplier and check before disassembly. I would get parts from manufacture and not off brands.

 

[inphx]

These came off easily - thanks for all the tips.