tips for installing exterior pre hung door

[awdblazer]

anyone got any tips to installing a pre hung steel door? wood frame
thanks

 

[JakeKohl]

Seal the threshold madly to the floor underneath. Put lots of caulk on the door jam trim where it meets the exterior face of the building. I like to remove the door from the jam by removing the pins, latch keeper, and any screws that temporarily keep the door shut (you probably can't get to these later).

Square and plumb up the hinge side of the jam and roughly center it in the opening. Secure it with screws through shims through the holes in the three hinges that are missing screws. make sure you have nice and long rust resistant screws that can firmly get into the rough opening. Spend extra time to make sure it's plumb and square on the hing side. Mount the door back on the hinges. Put the level away and set the latch side to the door. Swing the door almost shut and shine a bright light through one side (or use the daylight) - adjust until the latch side jam until it matches the door (a lot of these doors have the hinges mounted in a "quick fashion" that isn't terribly precise...if you mount both sides level /plumb, the door may not seal well....your better off to make sure the hinge side is precise so the door stays in any position and set the latch side to match the door.

Don't forget to caulk the exterior trim - it will leak in a hard rain and be hard to figure out where the leak is (that's experience talking right there).

 

[willymakeit]

If you foam around the jamb,shim between the door and jamb to keep the foam from causing door bind.

 

[Falcon67]

Prop it up some, shim it at the bottom to center it, run a few beads of clear silicone cross the bottom of the threshold then raise it the rest of they way into the rough opening. Plumb and square, use a lot of shims. Trim the shims, use low expansion foam around the gaps, trim it out.

 

[toolmiser]

Hot tip on foaming: If you run a small bead all around the door, and let it cure (set) it will "glue" the door in place, and then you can come back later and apply more.

 

[Slednut]

If you flip back the rubber door seal you can install screws to secure the frame so when the seal is released the head of the screw will be hidden. If the door starts to bind, the screws make it easier to adjust.

 

[Toomanytools?]

Yes I do have some tips...But I'm a professional so your're going to have to pay for them.

 

[awdblazer]

so what i was going to do
take an angle grinder and cut the stucco right up against the brick mould
remove door
make some flashing up that goes under the threshold and goes also on the wall and silicone under that
then silicone the **** out of the threshold and start shimming the hinge side
take off door
then shim the top? or shim the opposite side second?

 

[spotco2]

... start shimming the hinge side
take off door
then shim the top? or shim the opposite side second?

Yes.

You will have to shim all sides of the opening to get everything plumb and square.

 

[deter]

this video is decent

couple things to add: removing the brickmold makes it a lot easier. be ready for the wall to be out of plumb, or for the wall to be thicker than your door jamb. Also, I highly advise AGAINST spray foam in the voids. Just slide some fiberglass batt in there.

 

[DocRocket]

Look for the trays that you can put under the door. They provide a positive lip to keep water from running in under the door (snow melt, blowing rain, whatever). Several lines of RTV over and under the tray--try to get the preformed flashing that goes over the brickmold at the top of the door--under the siding, over the door frame. Aside from that, as above--screws are your friend, take your time, get it plumb and in the opening where you want it. If you use foam, Be Sure it is the low-expansion stuff.

 

[awdblazer]

what i was thinking, take angle grinder and cut around original brick mould
take brick mould off
take sawzall and cut old door out
make a piece of flashing for the threshold
caulk the hell out of it
then dry fit the door
caulk the hell out of the flashing where it meets the door threshold
take door out of frame
centre door frame in opening
shim the hinge side using 3 inch screws in the hinge holes
put door back on hinges
shim the latch side so the reveal is even
shim the top so the reveal is even
put brick mould on
caulk the brick mould and outside of door frame
stuff in fibreglass insulation between fall and frame
put new casings on
put locks on
i think thats it

 

[Holedgr]

why the advising AGAINST the spray foam DETER?

They make low expanding foam for window/doors...Ive never had a problem?

-T

 

[JakeKohl]

why the advising AGAINST the spray foam DETER?

They make low expanding foam for window/doors...Ive never had a problem?

-T

Yeah, likewise here - the foam cuts down on the air leaks as well.

 

[Automatic Slim]

plumb, square, level.

shim as needed.foam large gaps, or 30 yr silicone for gap less than 1/8".

I use a stabila electronic level, 0.0.

Ensure the door clears floor by opening fully before installation. Take into account any flooring you may add (wood, tile, carpet, rug etc.) and ensure you have enough clearance. Or let me be clear, have any thoughts ever about adding any flooring in your lifetime, LOL.

Trim it in, caulk the trim, paint, party - drink a beer and open the door a dozen times.

 

[cabranch47]

Unless the brick mold is made out of a composite material, I strongly suggest painting/sealing the lower end of the wood moulding and casing if possible. This is where the water wicks up into the moulding/casing and eventually rots the lower ends out. Seen it many times.

 

[awdblazer]

brick mould is pvc
threshold is alumnium i believe
should i go and get some low expansion spray foam and use that instead of fibreglass? whats the pros/cons of fibreglass and foam?
thanks

 

[deter]

minimally expanding still expands, and Ive seen issues with almost every window/door that was sealed with the stuff. I find it very easy to just stuff (not tightly packed though) fiberglass insulation into the gaps, and seal all the exterior trim up with caulking. I usually like to wrap the exterior trim with brake aluminum as well

(I installed doors and windows in houses for a number of years)