Tips on bending mini split line sets?

[SALIV8]

I have 3 mini split line sets coming and they are insulated already. I'm hoping to be able to bend them by hand.

I'm thinking use my thumbs and try to make a sweep, as opposed to a tighter 90*.

Hoping you guys can share some tips how you did it.

Is this possible without a bender?

 

[brewchief]

What size lines? 1/4" and 3/8" are easy to hand bend, larger gets a bit tougher.

 

[SALIV8]

Oops I left that important info out- 1/2" and 1/4"

 

[Jackfre]

I pull the insulation, slide on a spring bender and work it from there. The insulation slides on easily afterward. The thing is, the copper work hardens...quickly and on the 1/2” you may need the bender. Keep in mind that it starts annealing as soon as you start unrolling it.

 

[SALIV8]

I pull the insulation, slide on a spring bender and work it from there. The insulation slides on easily afterward. The thing is, the copper work hardens...quickly and on the 1/2” you may need the bender. Keep in mind that it starts annealing as soon as you start unrolling it.

Thanks jackfre.

I'm not 100% confident with my understanding of your terms. I need to make the bends where I need them the first time and that's it, right?

The more I bend the copper the weaker it gets and damage is likely, is my understanding, am I following?

 

[brewchief]

Thanks jackfre.

I'm not 100% confident with my understanding of your terms. I need to make the bends where I need them the first time and that's it, right?

The more I bend the copper the weaker it gets and damage is likely, is my understanding, am I following?

The more you bend it the harder it gets to straighten and rebend, it will make it more likely to kink.

The 1/4" is easy, you can kink it but you almost have to try to kink it. The 1/2" can be a little tougher but is still pretty easy to hand form.

If you know you will have plenty of extra length cut a couple of feet off of one of the linesets and make a practice bend or two so you have an idea how it will bend before you are trying to due it on top of a ladder.

 

[SALIV8]

Thanks brew chief.

I don't think I will have much excess but I will remove the insulation and use a spring bender, if I have second thoughts on hand bending once I have the line sets in my hands.

 

[Climatecreator]

We use this bender all the time on ductless https://amzn.to/2rzEExg

Cut the insulation anywhere you need to bend, slide it apart make the bend, pull together and tape. Spring benders are only good at the very end of the lineset....

CC

 

[Git]

When I installed my Mr Slim, I opted to buy "EZ Roll" linesets from Kamco that were supposed to have a softer temper and 'improved ductility'

https://www.aclinesets.com/products...less-line-set-refrigerant-line-1-4-x-1-2-x-15

One lineset was 50' x 3/8" and had to run about 8' of it through a 90 degree bend. I was able to carefully bend and then straighten the tubing by hand. No kinks or flat spots

I don't have any experience with other linesets, but I was pleased with the EZ Roll

 

[justinjoyal]

For clean 1/2 bends you need a bender. Longer bends can be done by hand.

 

[Climatecreator]

You can also use these behind the head unit on the wall......

1/2" https://amzn.to/2IjgluJ
1/4" https://amzn.to/2rG3USv

Hope that helps you as well....

CC

 

[SALIV8]

Thanks for all the help everyone!

 

[aunsafe2015]

You can also use these behind the head unit on the wall......

1/2" https://amzn.to/2IjgluJ
1/4" https://amzn.to/2rG3USv

Hope that helps you as well....

CC

Does adding extra flare connections have any downside? For instance, does it reduce refrigerant floor, affect efficiency, etc? Or is it generally completely harmless?

Could you use something like this anywhere you have a difficult corner, or only at the evaporator?

 

[AA7483]

Does adding extra flare connections have any downside? For instance, does it reduce refrigerant floor, affect efficiency, etc? Or is it generally completely harmless?

Could you use something like this anywhere you have a difficult corner, or only at the evaporator?

Other than adding another potential leaking point, I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[Jackfre]

Other than adding another potential leaking point, I wouldn't worry about it.

You will notice that the flare nuts/fittings on the factories fittings are generally heavier than most fittings you will find on the line-sets. Do not use the flares on the line set. They only do those to keep the nut on. This is not to say that you can’t add fittings. Practice your flares. De-burr the tubing and don’t get into a tight spot when you need to add a fitting. Trust me on that one

 

[Climatecreator]

You wouldn't want to bury them in a wall or anything but other than that no worries.

Also keep in mind most ductless manufacturers want minimum line set runs like 10 feet etc. Always check that when planning.

Use thread locker on all flare nuts. I use this https://amzn.to/2rBsqEm because I already have it in my bag and it works for so many other things.

Also you can make perfect flares now with your drill! https://amzn.to/2rH6Puj if you don't really know how to flare, this kit will help make pro flares in no time!

CC

Does adding extra flare connections have any downside? For instance, does it reduce refrigerant floor, affect efficiency, etc? Or is it generally completely harmless?

Could you use something like this anywhere you have a difficult corner, or only at the evaporator?

 

[Brian_WK]

You wouldn't want to bury them in a wall or anything but other than that no worries.agreed

Also keep in mind most ductless manufacturers want minimum line set runs like 10 feet etc. Always check that when planning.

Use thread locker on all flare nuts. I use this https://amzn.to/2rBsqEm because I already have it in my bag and it works for so many other things.a well done flare needs non of this except some oil on the back of the flare to prevent galling and to ensure your torqued correctly I'm not a fan of leak lock on flares as there is to much risk of contamination the system so do your research and decide what is best for you

Also you can make perfect flares now with your drill! https://amzn.to/2rH6Puj if you don't really know how to flare, this kit will help make pro flares in no time!
please don't use these

CC

Brian

 

[OzarkMan]

I always use Nylog on the flares but only a tiny drop on the face. I have yet to have a leak from the flare. True on adding a drop on the backside to prevent galling. I haven't done that yet. Those type of sealers are compatible with all compressor oils. Just make sure your fingers are spotless when applying or the tip of the container is spotless.

 

[Climatecreator]

Brian

To be clear, I use the leak lock on the threads. Never the face, or seat of the flare. Many manufactures REQUIRE some type of thread locker on the flare nuts as they may come loose due to vibration. In the 25 years or so of flaring I have yet to use any sort of oil on flares, and as a service tech I'M the one going back to the jobs year after year unlike the installers that just install and never return, so I can say with certainty that my flares are good.

Also, why don't you like the speedy drill type flare system? Not that I use it but it seems to work well.

CC

 

[Brian_WK]

To be clear, I use the leak lock on the threads. Never the face, or seat of the flare. Many manufactures REQUIRE some type of thread locker on the flare nuts as they may come loose due to vibration. In the 25 years or so of flaring I have yet to use any sort of oil on flares, and as a service tech I'M the one going back to the jobs year after year unlike the installers that just install and never return, so I can say with certainty that my flares are good.

Also, why don't you like the speedy drill type flare system? Not that I use it but it seems to work well.

CC

The metal to metal seal has always been fine for me as well as using proper torque spec on the nuts as well. Every major mini split brand has torque specs on what they want the flare nuts to be. I have yet to come across one that mentions a thread locker including expansion valves, solenoid valves, etc. In-fact in 14 years the only flare leaks I have come across are a couple of cracked improper flares and a bunch of frost pinches on freezers. Neither of which a sealant would have done any good. (FYI high temp grease is what you need on the seat of flare in the vertical position on a freezer as well as some on the back of nut)

I love leak lock for NPT fitting like high pressure switches and Male adapters but that is all I use it on.

The Speedy drill type have too many chance of messing up the flare or adding contamination to the system. Improper alignment, galling, flare to big or small, bulges just before the seat. The contamination would be just too easy with a object spinning 2000+ rpm inside of a piece of copper scraping off a piece and throwing it into the pipe without you ever knowing. The cost just doesn't justify it 4 times as much for 4 flares and you save a whopping 4 minutes.

Brian

 

[justinjoyal]

You wouldn't want to bury them in a wall or anything but other than that no worries.

Also keep in mind most ductless manufacturers want minimum line set runs like 10 feet etc. Always check that when planning.

Use thread locker on all flare nuts. I use this https://amzn.to/2rBsqEm because I already have it in my bag and it works for so many other things.

Also you can make perfect flares now with your drill! https://amzn.to/2rH6Puj if you don't really know how to flare, this kit will help make pro flares in no time!

CC

Leak lock? Please dont use that ****. Craiglist hacks are probably what keeps that product on the shelves.

And I havent used that flare kit thing but I’ve heard only bad things from pros who tried it.

EDIT: Brian_WK beat me to it. He’s spot on!

 

[Climatecreator]

Leak lock? Please dont use that ****. Craiglist hacks are probably what keeps that product on the shelves.

And I havent used that flare kit thing but I’ve heard only bad things from pros who tried it.

EDIT: Brian_WK beat me to it. He’s spot on!

You obviously have no idea what leak lock is.

The drill flare kit I could do without, still use my imperial block and yoke. Hasn't done me wrong yet.

Just offered that someone without a practiced hand could make a GOOD flare with that kit. Didn't say it was perfect by far.

 

[brainypencil]

Thanks fot this tips! really helpful

 

[justinjoyal]

You obviously have no idea what leak lock is.

The drill flare kit I could do without, still use my imperial block and yoke. Hasn't done me wrong yet.

Just offered that someone without a practiced hand could make a GOOD flare with that kit. Didn't say it was perfect by far.

Oh dont worry I know leak lock... [emoji37]

 

[Diesel Dan]

You can also use these behind the head unit on the wall......

1/2" https://amzn.to/2IjgluJ
1/4" https://amzn.to/2rG3USv

Hope that helps you as well....

CC

Thanks for the suggestion!
Flaring the ends with old fashion rigid tools.

 

[Fixin'Stuff]

You can also use these behind the head unit on the wall......

1/2" https://amzn.to/2IjgluJ
1/4" https://amzn.to/2rG3USv

Hope that helps you as well....

CC

I was thinking about this thread as I was hanging my Mr. Cool Oasis ES on the wall. I slid the insulation up the tubes a bit and discovered that the pipes coming out of the wall unit have a long spring over each tube. I guess that's why you don't hear about people kinking them while bending the tubes out of the unit and then down the wall.

I also came across a video of a line bender set used in Europe. It has long plastic rods that you slide into the tube, make your bend, then slide the rod out. (Also notice the nice sweep bend in the lineset cover in the video! All the ones I've seen in the US have a sharp 90. That sweep bend would make it far easier to make that bend without kinking. )

 

[PoorOwner]

I was thinking about this thread as I was hanging my Mr. Cool Oasis ES on the wall. I slid the insulation up the tubes a bit and discovered that the pipes coming out of the wall unit have a long spring over each tube. I guess that's why you don't hear about people kinking them while bending the tubes out of the unit and then down the wall.

I also came across a video of a line bender set used in Europe. It has long plastic rods that you slide into the tube, make your bend, then slide the rod out. (Also notice the nice sweep bend in the lineset cover in the video! All the ones I've seen in the US have a sharp 90. That sweep bend would make it far easier to make that bend without kinking. )

I have not seen one have a spring long enough to reach the area exiting the wall. You still have to hand bend that one or try to get a bender in there.

 

[Fixin'Stuff]

I have not seen one have a spring long enough to reach the area exiting the wall. You still have to hand bend that one or try to get a bender in there.

Now you have.