TIps on removing pop rivets?

[T45]

I had to remove some pop rivets recently, and it raised a couple interesting issues. basically the rivet is formed leaving a hard post in the centre which makes drilling out the rivet a pain.

What is the technically correct way to proceed?

 

[T45]

I've seen special double-ended drills for this general application, but don't recall if they were for pop as apposed to normal rivets and don't recall their geomtry/spec off-hand.

Technical considerations?

- what size drill?
- what material and geomtry for the drill-bit?

Other options?

- Punch?
- Grinder?
- File?
- Drill?

In what order?

 

[mike93lx]

I usually just use a drill about the size of the hole and rock it around. Works well enough for me in aluminum, but i don't do it all that often

 

[readhead]

A normal bit the size of the rivet will take it right out. You are way overthinking this.

 

[Ramblin Man]

I knock the post out of the center of the rivet with a punch before I start drilling the rivet.

 

[Billy Jack]

I knock the post out of the center of the rivet with a punch before I start drilling the rivet.

Bingo! As someone who's drilled out hundreds of rivets repairing Sprint Car wings, I heartily concur. My Snap On 1/16" punch has had its business end ground flat multiple times.

Bill

 

[Wamsutta]

I knock the post out of the center of the rivet with a punch before I start drilling the rivet.

I do the same thing, but I take a die grinder to the top of the rivet first. Just enough grinding to unlock the post.

 

[6PTsocket]

I have removed many pop rivets at work and at home just find a drill bit that is just bigger than the hole so it cuts the head off, about the size of the pilot hole,the nominal size if the rivet or a hair smaller so as not to enlarge the hole. Usually the drill will push the rivet out. If not a little tap with a punch knocks it out. .

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[jakemac]

i knock the post out of the center of the rivet with a punch before i start drilling the rivet.

Ding, Ding, Ding !
BTDT

 

[Rick B.]

A normal bit the size of the rivet will take it right out. You are way overthinking this.

Yeah, what he said.

 

[Ditch]

I've done thousands too. I just drill 'em. I never used a punch.
It's simple.

 

[Advan]

If the surface isn't easily harmed (or it does not matter...) I'll sometimes just cut 'em clean off with a large, sharp chisel, then punch any remaining **** though the hole. Otherwise, a drill will do the trick.

 

[Mohawk Dave]

http://m.northerntool.com/products/shop~tools~product_200451731_200451731?hotline=false

 

[pendragon1998]

What's the best way to remove them when you want to spare the surface underneath, such as when the rivets are holding down an easily-damaged data plate on a machine? I normally grind away carefully at the back of the part, but there's got to be a better way.

 

[MikeF2316]

I knock the post out of the center of the rivet with a punch before I start drilling the rivet.

If it's there, I do this too. It makes drilling out what's left easier.

 

[bushmechanic]

Edited.

 

[Fretters]

What's the best way to remove them when you want to spare the surface underneath, such as when the rivets are holding down an easily-damaged data plate on a machine? I normally grind away carefully at the back of the part, but there's got to be a better way.

Same way. I always use a drill bit slightly larger than the hole the rivet goes through, with steady, fairly light pressure on the drill. As soon as the head starts spinning, lift off and punch the remainder of the rivet out.

 

[justme-]

I use a drill several sizes bigger...idea is to cut the head off the body, then if needed a punch knocks the body out easily. Easier done than described.

 

[Coach James]

The last few I removed were from some stuff that I was taking apart to reuse some parts on other projects. I ground the heads off then knocked the rivets out with a punch.

Coach

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

If the surface isn't easily harmed (or it does not matter...) I'll sometimes just cut 'em clean off with a large, sharp chisel, then punch any remaining **** though the hole. Otherwise, a drill will do the trick.

Yep, a freshly sharpened wood chisel.

 

[mfewtrail]

A stepped drill bit is by far the easiest thing I've used to remove standard pop rivets. Literally rips the head off them almost instantly.

 

[85blazer]

We had two coke machines broken into at work a few years ago.
They just removed the rivets and took the door off. Those rivets are huge; I always wondered how they did it so fast. Figured they must have had a tool other than meth.
Coke didn't send a third machine.

 

[pi_guy]

I use a center drill.

 

[rustyjames]

I always just used the right size drill bit according to the size rivet, never needed to use a punch first.

 

[6PTsocket]

We had two coke machines broken into at work a few years ago.
They just removed the rivets and took the door off. Those rivets are huge; I always wondered how they did it so fast. Figured they must have had a tool other than meth.
Coke didn't send a third machine.

I guess they didn't want to sell coke very badly if they couldn't find a better way to secure the door.

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[NYBODYMAN]

I always punch out the center pin then if I have access, I try to cut the back of the rivet with a pair of dykes and just wiggle it through the hole. If I don't have access, I will drill it.

 

[rustbucket5]

if you can get between the two substrates (like plastic over top of steel) split the head off by hammering a painters scraper inbetween then punch the post from the steel.

 

[ovrrdrive]

I'm in the middle of a project using steel rivets and I've had to remove a bunch of them. I've been using the same drill bit I use to drill the hole for them and just drill through the head. The bit punches out the rest of it when the head gives way. I'm with the "you're overthinking this" crowd.

 

[6PTsocket]

I'm in the middle of a project using steel rivets and I've had to remove a bunch of them. I've been using the same drill bit I use to drill the hole for them and just drill through the head. The bit punches out the rest of it when the head gives way. I'm with the "you're overthinking this" crowd.

I'm with you. That is the way I have always done it. I never gave it a second thought. At work there were hundreds of bins on a sorting machine. There were plastic strips in the bins, held by pop rivets. The strips would break and need replacement. I went down the line drilling out hundreds of pop rivets. No problem. A chisel was out of the question because the heads were countersunk in the strips.

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[Billy Jack]

There's a bunch of suggestions here, so which one you use should probably be determined by the materials, both the substrate and rivet/stem, as well as the level of precision necessary. In the case of my Sprint Car wing projects, I'm trying to do as little damage or hole enlargement as possible. I'm always working with thin higher-strength aluminum and the rivets are aluminum with steel mandrels in 1/8". I used to just have at 'em with a #30 drill bit, but one night we had a front wing get air inside while we were leading the feature, dropping us back about ten positions by the time the checkered flag flew.
Post-mortem examination indicated the failure was due to oversize holes from previous repairs. It took quite a few weeks of vibration from banging around on the dirt for the panel to loosen a bit, but it cost us what could have been our first feature win. Since then, I always punch out the mandrel and use a depth stop on the bit. I also never fasten two pieces of aluminum without some silicone sealant in between layers.
When you're a low-buck, middle-of-the-pack team, you don't want to reduce your already-slim chance of finishing in the front by short-cutting anything in preparation.

I do like the center drill tip, however. With some careful depth control, that may be worth a trial.

Bill

 

[T45]

I'm with the "you're overthinking this" crowd.

Its definitely fair to say "Hey, in a plain vanilla case....just drill"...

 

[T45]

So I'll get into a little bit of the non-vanilla variables that may influence the outcome.

1) Thin, pliable and un-supported substrate
2) Need re-use the substrate unmodified (including the original pilot holes)
3) Heavily corroded rivets and rivet posts

Couple of the things I tried

1) HSS 118* and HS CO 135* bit types
2) Bit sizes 1/3 (3mm) and 15/64 (6mm)
3) Straight drill, no punch
4) Carbide Centre punch + Drill
5) External support for the substrate (eg, wood blocks etc)

The main issue/problem in my opinion that was encountered

A) Not removing or flatening-square the centre post forces off-centre drilling
A2) Also forces a centre punch off-centre
B) Off-centre drilling increases risk of figure 8 hole vs orginal clean pilot holes
C) Rough-shape posts and corroded posts were primary culprit

Things I didn't try, which I would consider based on this thread feedback

6) Spot grind or File the post flat before drilling (more square= deflection less likely)
7) drift punch out the post, not centre punch (which just deflects)
8) Using an even larger (1/4) drill or centre-drill bit to drill (stiffer, less wander)

 

[Dingleburry]

I just use a chisel and punch.

 

[pi_guy]

Center drills seem to do the least damage.
If you are drilling out a fuel cell panel a long bit can cause you issues.
Also if you use a center drill one size smaller than the rivet hole the small diameter will center you and the large edge does the separation cut, flange from body.
There is a punch made for driving out rivet bodies. It fixes the hole a bit to.

 

[CoyoteKyle]

Most rivets use a wire size drill depending on the rivet size. Common rivet drill sizes #10, #11, #20 or #30. Shouldn't need a punch with the right size drill.

 

[pi_guy]

Most rivets use a wire size drill depending on the rivet size. Common rivet drill sizes #10, #11, #20 or #30. Shouldn't need a punch with the right size drill.

Often large riveted objects with multiple rivets and folded sheet metal will use a structural adhesive the remains are not going to fall out, they will have to be punched out.

 

[skruft]

I have always just drilled them with an appropriate size drill. I think the core is pushed out.

 

[Yarpo]

I've drilled out about 20 rivets a day for the last 3 years, 5 days a week. I've always used an 1/8th inch bit, for the 1/8th inch rivets we use. Sometimes the center can start to throw me off, but never enough to severely mar up or figure 8 the holes, as I always reuse the original holes with my new rivets, and again I'm able to reattach without issue.

Thinking about it tho, a step bit may be easier, I might try that tomorrow