Tire pressure recommendations needed

[whitetailhntr]

Just installed some new Toyo AT2s and was wondering what the recommended tire pressure is. I once called BFgoodrich and they stated to only go off the vehicle recommendations not the tire??? Any input?

 

[Csmnlm]

What type of vehicle are you putting them on?

 

[larry_g]

One less bit of information and you would have nothing at all. Need vehicle, tire size, wheel size, rating of the tire as in load range if applicable. Are you hauling, towing offroading or any other factors that will bear on what may affect the tire pressure you should be running?

If you stick with what you have given so far then somewhere in the 20-70 psi range would be my answer.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[Richard Cranium]

Kind of hard to say, Post more info. please.

 

[rburke65]

Why not the pressure stated on the side of the tire? I don't understand?

 

[c4cruiser]

Why not the pressure stated on the side of the tire? I don't understand?

The pressure on the tire sidewall is there more for the tire installer to use. Most tires today state to not use more than 40 psi when inflating a tire to seat the bead on the rim. Some tires also have a "never exceed" pressure listed. Too much pressure can hurt handling and cause excessive tire wear especially in the center of the tread. Too little pressure can also hurt handling, lower the amount of weight that can be carried and cause excessive tire wear on the edges of the tire.

The best way is to inflate the tires to the recommended pressure shown on the tire decal that is placed on the driver's door or B-pillar. Pressure information will also be in the owner's manual for the vehicle. Then pressure can be adjusted up or down for ride quality or handling.

 

[logical]

Just installed some new Toyo AT2s and was wondering what the recommended tire pressure is. I once called BFgoodrich and they stated to only go off the vehicle recommendations not the tire??? Any input?

They are correct as long as your new tires are more or less the same size and type as what was on it from the factory. Look at the sticker on/in the vehicle.

 

[Bluedodge]

...The best way is to inflate the tires to the recommended pressure shown on the tire decal that is placed on the driver's door or B-pillar. Pressure information will also be in the owner's manual for the vehicle...

^^^ This ^^^

 

[rburke65]

I still don't understand what the vehicle mfg. has to do with the tire specs from the tire mfg? To me this is akin to wanting to paint a vehicle using Sherwin Williams paint product and I have to ask Gen. Motors what type and amount of reducer to use. I'm not doubting the directive to go by the stated psi on the door jamb.....I fail to see the connection.

 

[plain garage]

Most passenger tires have max psi of 50, usually for on road applications 32 cold is fine. It really depends on the weight of car, profile of tire (aspect ratio) and whether you're off-roading.

 

[Bluedodge]

I still don't understand what the vehicle mfg. has to do with the tire specs from the tire mfg? To me this is akin to wanting to paint a vehicle using Sherwin Williams paint product and I have to ask Gen. Motors what type and amount of reducer to use. I'm not doubting the directive to go by the stated psi on the door jamb.....I fail to see the connection.

Instead of paint, let us think in terms of oil viscosity.

Who would know which oil your 5.3 liter GMC should use?

The engineers at General Motors? ...or the guys selling Mobil1 and AmSoil?

 

[larry_g]

I still don't understand what the vehicle mfg. has to do with the tire specs from the tire mfg? To me this is akin to wanting to paint a vehicle using Sherwin Williams paint product and I have to ask Gen. Motors what type and amount of reducer to use. I'm not doubting the directive to go by the stated psi on the door jamb.....I fail to see the connection.

The specs on the tire are maximums that the tire will tolerate.

That tire may be used by a manufacture on a vehicle that weighs or has a GVW that is 500 to a 1000 pounds per wheel. So the manufacture gives a pressure for the recommended tire on that vehicle. If the tire YOU choose to put on the rig is outside the manufactures range then YOU have to figure out the correct pressure settings for the tire you are using. My LT tires, like the OP's could be, have a sidewall rating of 80psi but I don't run that pressure all the time as it is not necessary on an empty rig.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[whitetailhntr]

There going on a 2005 Silverado 4x4 minimal hauling. There slightly larger then stock. There an E grade tire at 285/65/18

 

[dynahoe]

door tag states it all stick to that

 

[rodm1]

I've found starting 5 psi under the door tag seems to be a good starting point. I always have center wear problems and this seems to be a good starting point.

 

[velillen01]

Start at the door tag. Then adjusts bit for comfort and mileage.

I run my tires anywhere from 15psi to 40-45psi. 15psi is off-road and slow speed only though. For forest service road type stuff I like around 22psi. For freeway...40-45psi. But I have on board air so I can adjust as needed.

Now my commuter car with same size as stock tires....I leave it at the door pressure

 

[DekeT]

Just installed some new Toyo AT2s and was wondering what the recommended tire pressure is. I once called BFgoodrich and they stated to only go off the vehicle recommendations not the tire??? Any input?

I doubt anyone knows off the top of their head what the answer is and I am certain you wouldn't be asking others to do your research for you, am I right?

 

[rodm1]

I've found starting 5 psi under the door tag seems to be a good starting point. I always have center where problems and this seems to be a good starting point.

 

[larry_g]

There going on a 2005 Silverado 4x4 minimal hauling. There slightly larger then stock. There an E grade tire at 285/65/18

What is the GVW of your rig? Makes a difference. For my Chev it is 50psi front and 80psi rear.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[whitetailhntr]

I doubt anyone knows off the top of their head what the answer is and I am certain you wouldn't be asking others to do your research for you, am I right?

Ive called tire manufactories and got there opinion as stated in my post.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

There going on a 2005 Silverado 4x4 minimal hauling. There slightly larger then stock. There an E grade tire at 285/65/18

Off the top of my head.

My 2000 K2500 (old body style) 4x4 calls for 60 PSI front and 80 PSI rear.
The tires are the same front and rear.
I know that just about every time I've gotten new tires the shops put them at 32 PSI. Apparently those kids don't check the door sticker or owners manual either.
At one place the techs actually seemed surprised when I showed them the ratings in the owners manual, they told me to check the door. So we walked out to check the door. Then they said the tires weren't rated for that much so he looked on the tire. In the end they they told me that their air lines were permanently set at 32 PSI and they couldn't put more in.
At 32 PSI it rides OK until I put a trailer behind it or load in the bed. I've never gone far enough to find out how wear is affected.

 

[George in Rancho Cordova]

Q. Correct inflation?
A.It depends...

The vehicle manufacturer has a LOT to do with the correct inflation for the particular tire/vehicle combination, considering handling, ride, braking, rim width and load capacity of the vehicle to name a few.
Not knowing what vehicle the tire will be installed on, the manufacturer cannot list a recommended inflation on the tire itself.

Here is a good resource.
http://www.rma.org/tire-safety/

The last time I saw a reference book put out by RMA on tire fitment and inflation, it was the size of a Reader's Digest.

Reference the tragic deaths that occurred on Ford Explorers with incorrect inflation recommendations from Ford. Ford, and not the tire manufacturers, was on the hook for that.

 

[DekeT]

Ive called tire manufactories and got there opinion as stated in my post.

Dude, 20 posts in and your sending out private message hate mail?

 

[whitetailhntr]

Dude, 20 posts in and your sending out private message hate mail?

Hardly hate mail it was a message. After reading all your other post i should have known not to even acknowledge you. Most forums request to keep things like this off the main forum but here may be different.

 

[DekeT]

Hardly hate mail it was a message. After reading all your other post i should have known not to even acknowledge you. Most forums request to keep things like this off the main forum but here may be different.

See, after responding to me you are learning to do much better research on your own. You're welcome.

 

[KDXSR5]

I could try to explain a lot of stuff, but I found a great link on the first page of searching for you, aka "spoon feeding." If going with stock size and weight rating tires, I follow the door placard/owner manual. If going with a size and/or weight rating other than stock, I either use the scale method or the chalk method as outlined in the link. Read through the link a few times and determine what method will be the best fit for you and the amount of time you want to invest in getting a proper air pressure for your situation. Check it out:

http://www.4wheelparts.com/tire-wheel-package-guide/tire-pressure-checker.aspx

Good luck! Enjoy your new wheels and tires!

 

[Ponchoguy]

I still don't understand what the vehicle mfg. has to do with the tire specs from the tire mfg? To me this is akin to wanting to paint a vehicle using Sherwin Williams paint product and I have to ask Gen. Motors what type and amount of reducer to use. I'm not doubting the directive to go by the stated psi on the door jamb.....I fail to see the connection.

+1 on the door jamb decal. The tires used on a vehicile are typically spec'd by the OEM building the vehicle. GM cars even use the TPC spec so let's say a Goodyear Eagle LS2 (on my Pontiac G6) has a certain TPC spec. You might buy that same tire on Tire Rack, but if you don't buy the one with the GM TPC spec, it will likely have different parameters, even though both are Eagle LS2 tires.

So, the manufacturer of the vehicle has a LOT to do with the tires as they spec 'em originally.

 

[Ponchoguy]

Off the top of my head.

My 2000 K2500 (old body style) 4x4 calls for 60 PSI front and 80 PSI rear.
The tires are the same front and rear.
I know that just about every time I've gotten new tires the shops put them at 32 PSI. Apparently those kids don't check the door sticker or owners manual either.
At one place the techs actually seemed surprised when I showed them the ratings in the owners manual, they told me to check the door. So we walked out to check the door. Then they said the tires weren't rated for that much so he looked on the tire. In the end they they told me that their air lines were permanently set at 32 PSI and they couldn't put more in.
At 32 PSI it rides OK until I put a trailer behind it or load in the bed. I've never gone far enough to find out how wear is affected.

Same on my Pontiac G6 convertible---32 in the front, 30 in the rear, same tire all the way around, a Goodyear Eagle LS2.

 

[owenst7]

This many posts and nobody has mentioned using water/chalk and rolling on concrete? Adjust tire pressure until the tread face is contacting the ground evenly by viewing the tracks left by the water/chalk.

Pressure on the door jamb only applies to exactly the same tires as the manufacturer built and the sidewall is just the maximum safe load. Tires need to meet or exceed GAWR and GVWR, then you lower pressure from max until the tread is perpendicular to the carcass. Running higher or lower will cause the tread to wear unevenly and in extreme cases can encourage delamination. Handling will be improved because the entire tread face will contact the ground and the vertex at the ground will be at the base of the sidewall instead of up at the side. Underinflation will reduce tread contact also by raising the center on a radial. Overinflation will make the tread stand proud in the center and remove the shoulders from the contact patch which are typically critical for lateral traction when turning.

 

[LumpyMusic]

I typically proceed with thusage:

Fill new tires to 35 psi. Drive 'em around.

Bump 'em up by 5 lbs. Drive 'em around.

Repeat up, down whatever, till I find the pressure I like.

Ride and handling are more important to me than an extra couple thousand miles of tire life because for me at least, I put very few miles on my van. I'll replace the tires at about 5 yrs because the UV and ozone have worn them. They'll still have plenty of tread left.

I'l even sacrifice the loss of 0.1 mpg if I like the lower pressure better.


Lump

 

[Jinks]

Years ago this same question appeared on an RV forum I was on. Dunlop offered a suggestion for tires/vehicles/loads you didn't have data for. It should work fairly well if you start with data from the vehicle manufacturer.

Inflate to manufacturer standards (or best guess if you don't have manufacturer standards), then drive the vehicle at highway speeds long enough to bring them to operating temperature. Check the pressure, it should be 10% higher than when cold. If it's less than 10% you're over inflated. More than 10% you're under inflated.

Maybe not exact, but I've found it works pretty well.......YMMV

 

[Angelfire]

This many posts and nobody has mentioned using water/chalk and rolling on concrete? Adjust tire pressure until the tread face is contacting the ground evenly by viewing the tracks left by the water/chalk.

This is the method I use. I typically end up less than what's shown on the door.

 

[KDXSR5]

I could try to explain a lot of stuff, but I found a great link on the first page of searching for you, aka "spoon feeding." If going with stock size and weight rating tires, I follow the door placard/owner manual. If going with a size and/or weight rating other than stock, I either use the scale method or the chalk method as outlined in the link. Read through the link a few times and determine what method will be the best fit for you and the amount of time you want to invest in getting a proper air pressure for your situation. Check it out:

http://www.4wheelparts.com/tire-wheel-package-guide/tire-pressure-checker.aspx

Good luck! Enjoy your new wheels and tires!

This many posts and nobody has mentioned using water/chalk and rolling on concrete? Adjust tire pressure until the tread face is contacting the ground evenly by viewing the tracks left by the water/chalk.

Pressure on the door jamb only applies to exactly the same tires as the manufacturer built and the sidewall is just the maximum safe load. Tires need to meet or exceed GAWR and GVWR, then you lower pressure from max until the tread is perpendicular to the carcass. Running higher or lower will cause the tread to wear unevenly and in extreme cases can encourage delamination. Handling will be improved because the entire tread face will contact the ground and the vertex at the ground will be at the base of the sidewall instead of up at the side. Underinflation will reduce tread contact also by raising the center on a radial. Overinflation will make the tread stand proud in the center and remove the shoulders from the contact patch which are typically critical for lateral traction when turning.

Read again buddy.

 

[Milton Shaw]

The tire pressure front to rear split determines the car handling in panic stops, sever turns and other emergency situations. The car mfg has spent many dollars and miles of test drives to determine that pressure. That said I do increase the rear tires to max pressure if I am loaded but inflate the front to the difference specified in manual/door sticker. The wrong split and the car will swap ends under panic conditions which will increase the pucker factor. Tires do ride better under recommended pressure but tire life suffers.

 

[raiderhillbilly]

There is no right answer. The change in outside air temperature causes the pressure in the tire to vary. Maximum limits are printed on the tire. Too low pressure results in tire overheating/failure and poor gas mileage. Too high pressure results in poorer traction and increased blowout risk.

With stock size tires, stick to the info on the door jamb and make small adjustments from there.

 

[CJM8515]

Chalk test would be the best.

BUT you put an E range tire on what I assume is a 1500 (1/2 ton) pick up. Chevy used P metric tires on those. The stick in the door is NOT applicable at all in this scenario since you replaced your tire with likely a larger but a totally different load range tire. That sticker is only good for the same exact size and type of tire that came on the truck stock.

Im willing to bet about 45-55psi will be the proper inflation. How do I know? Cause Ive done it before with similar and the same trucks.

 

[stikman56]

I still don't understand what the vehicle mfg. has to do with the tire specs from the tire mfg? To me this is akin to wanting to paint a vehicle using Sherwin Williams paint product and I have to ask Gen. Motors what type and amount of reducer to use. I'm not doubting the directive to go by the stated psi on the door jamb.....I fail to see the connection.

Because the car weighs a certain amount at each end, the tires are a certain size, a certain pressure puts the entire face of the tire in contact with the pavement, so the tire is properly inflated at that point. Tire wear goes down, stopping and road grip is at it's peak performance and on and on.

 

[whitetailhntr]

Notice the part of the tire that is clean and not making contact with the road? Is this a good indication of over inflation?

 

[Robbie13]

Diesel or gas? Are these oversized for the rims? I'm running 22.5" 10 lug on my dually. They are semi tires. The rating on the sidewall is way different on a 1 ton truck than a semi. Diesels are a lot heavier in the front than a gas. From your pic they are under inflated.

 

[WhiffySpark]

Chalk test would be the best.

BUT you put an E range tire on what I assume is a 1500 (1/2 ton) pick up. Chevy used P metric tires on those. The stick in the door is NOT applicable at all in this scenario since you replaced your tire with likely a larger but a totally different load range tire. That sticker is only good for the same exact size and type of tire that came on the truck stock.

Im willing to bet about 45-55psi will be the proper inflation. How do I know? Cause Ive done it before with similar and the same trucks.

We do 40 when people put lt tires on 1500s