To hydrotest or not to hydrotest

[lalojamesliz]

So the speedaire 4xa59 I just bought is from 2008 and was used in a jiffy lube shop. They replaced it with a new IR compressor. The owner said he didn't want to put anymore money into it after supposedly rebuilding the motor (I don't know how to verify this) they showed me videos of it working fine and at 175psi on the guage.
When I had it in the bed of my truck I didn't see any rust or surface damage near the drain hole on the bottom.

I usually worry a lot but this is a huge bomb if it blew. I'm going to borrow my friends scope to see the inside condition if possible.
I saw some videos on diy hydrotest with filling the tank as much as possible then using a pressure washer (I have one) to fill it to 150% with the tank sealed of course.
I'll look around to see if I can find somewhere that would hydrotest it and how much but that diy test seems easy. That and I shouldn't be driving around town right now according to my government.
The tank is 12 yrs old.... What would you guys do?
When I brought it home it was draining some light color sludge stuff since it has no pipe or valve on the bottom. They kept it I guess. No the nicest thing into see drain out.

 

[Firebrick43]

I have never seen an air compressor tank grenade or blow up.
I have seen them rust a hole and release it out the bottom in a loud and surprising way but not in an IED way. And it 2008.

Neighbor has an old champion that was used in a service station for several decades and it has a riveted tank. Made in the 40’s? Or 50’s???

Don’t worry about it.

 

[techieman33]

I have never seen an air compressor tank grenade or blow up.
I have seen them rust a hole and release it out the bottom in a loud and surprising way but not in an IED way. And it 2008.

Neighbor has an old champion that was used in a service station for several decades and it has a riveted tank. Made in the 40’s? Or 50’s???

Don’t worry about it.

It's extremely rare, but it can happen. Here's a video

 

[Firebrick43]

No way. That tank is either a defective weld (cheap air compressor that the receiver isn’t made to ASME standards) or some one replaced the pop off with a plug and it over pressured(cause of 99% of boiler/water heater/air receiver explosions). Rust failures don’t zipper like that! On top of that it appears the old man was fooling with it and either standing over it but it’s had to tell.

 

[lalojamesliz]

I can only find the specs for the newer version that puts out 17.3cfm @175 compared to 16.5cfm @175psi on mine on the grainger site. It says it is ASME certified. That's good right.... I keep seeing people say that while searching for this.
I just get nervous since I have kids that go on my garage at times. I should have thought of this before I bought this beast

Firebrick43, your words do make me feel better but that video techieman33 posted doesn't do good for paranoid people like me ha ha ha

If I did try the diy hydrotest do you guys think the guage on the tank now will work as normal because of the water inside the tank or should I get a different guage?
I read on the thank's lable that it was pressure tested to 200 psi in 2008 as the tank certification. If I filled it to 260psi (150% or the max) it should be fine right? I need to find out if I can lower the max psi to like 160. It's the Hubbell 69JF9LY and I remember seeing it says the min on pressure is 100psi.

I really appreciate the help guys

 

[lalojamesliz]

I know I'm responsible for my own actions and this is only advice. Just had to mention this.

 

[matt_i]

The ASME tank won't blow up unless you prefill it with explosives or a combustible mixture and ignition source.

Its design and construction supports a leak-before-break philosophy that protects the world from malevolence stemming from the same issue while storing fuel gases in a pressure vessel.

It happened already and mankind set out to change it so it would never happen again.

Enter the ASME tank.

 

[laser3kw]

The bore scope and a look at the inside will be your best bet. If you see anything concerning that way, then junk it.

 

[930dreamer]

We did a diy hydro test on one of my tanks from 1957 with no issues.

 

[lalojamesliz]

The ASME tank won't blow up unless you prefill it with explosives or a combustible mixture and ignition source.

Its design and construction supports a leak-before-break philosophy that protects the world from malevolence stemming from the same issue while storing fuel gases in a pressure vessel.

It happened already and mankind set out to change it so it would never happen again.

Enter the ASME tank.

FANTASTIC!
that's exactly what I wanted to hear! Thank you

 

[lalojamesliz]

The bore scope and a look at the inside will be your best bet. If you see anything concerning that way, then junk it.

Will do for sure. I just borrowed a scope from a good friend for this job

 

[Showkey]

My Speedaire is circa 1985..........the condensation drain water is not the least bit rusty.
Visual inspection witha bore scope few years back.......no concern. Still in service today.

For comparison had a 20 year old Craftsmen compressor develop pin hole leaks in the bottom area.

OP for data points only..........your situation might be completely different.

 

[lalojamesliz]

if I find some dried up sludge or crud would I be able to rinse it out with a water hose and then give it a spot free rinse with some distilled water the best i can or is that just asking for problems? I'll learn how to post pics and post what I find

 

[lalojamesliz]

My Speedaire is circa 1985..........the condensation drain water is not the least bit rusty.
Visual inspection witha bore scope few years back.......no concern. Still in service today.

For comparison had a 20 year old Craftsmen compressor develop pin hole leaks in the bottom area.

OP for data points only..........your situation might be completely different.

Very nice! I need to return the scope tonight when o go back to work so it has to get done today. The scope is one of those things I want but rarely ever need.

 

[CraigStu]

If you find something that worries you this is one source for replacement tanks.
https://www.toolpartsdirect.com/cat...limit=100&q=20+gal+tank&search_filter=Default

 

[lalojamesliz]

Surprisingly it was dark in that tank!

That stuff that was leaking out is oil/water. It doesn't smell bad so I'm going to say it that. I wasn't able to remove the large nut/plug but I did remove the fill tube. I need to clean it with something to get all that sludge so I can see the bottom. Any recommendations?

 

[lalojamesliz]

I couldn't remove this one. I only have up to 34mm and 1-1/4" impact sockets. I tried a pipe wrench but no luck

 

[240sxguy]

Have you removed the plug from the bottom of the tank yet? If you still have a small valve on there for draining water condensate there's no way You'll get that junk out.

 

[SGKent]

when tanks are professionally cleaned, they are filled partially with an abrasive and tumbled. Then they are flushed and inspected again. Hydro isn't looking just for leaks, it is looking for expansion. The tank is immersed in a confined body of water and slightly over pressurized with fluid. The water volume that is displaced is measured, and that tells them how much the tank has expanded. If it is within spec it is passed and the new date recorded on the tank. If it fails they cut a window in the tank so it can't be pressurized again.

 

[sberry]

Quit messing with it.

 

[bczygan]

It's junk.

Send it to me.

Bill

 

[matt_i]

when tanks are professionally cleaned, they are filled partially with an abrasive and tumbled. Then they are flushed and inspected again. Hydro isn't looking just for leaks, it is looking for expansion. The tank is immersed in a confined body of water and slightly over pressurized with fluid. The water volume that is displaced is measured, and that tells them how much the tank has expanded. If it is within spec it is passed and the new date recorded on the tank. If it fails they cut a window in the tank so it can't be pressurized again.

How do they do that to those stationary propane tanks that are bigger than a railcar?

 

[HotrodHR]

If Jiffy Lube drained the tank on a regular basis then your tank is probably OK. Since you have no way of knowing this then by all mean do a pressure test... it will give you peace of mind and an opportunity for the water to flush out the tank when you're done.

If you use a pressure washer to "fill" and test the tank, do yourself a favor and turn it off when you get the tank to pressure. Depending on pressure washer type/brand (I'm referring to gas powered machines), if you run the washer for extended periods without pulling the gun trigger and not allow water to flow through the pump cooling it down, you may end up with pump failure. This usually happen after you get your washer back from a neighbor or lazy brother in law after they used it, taking beer breaks with the motor running wide open.

And finally, after you've gone through the trouble of pressure testing your new (old) tank, let's NOT plumb your air line system with PVC pipe...

I know, I know, I'm going to hear it from the guys who swear by using PVC in their shops... "It's been there dang near 30 years and ain't never caused any problems..." Don't be haters...

 

[Lassen Forge]

Do it, get it done. Sure, it's a PITA, but so's having an unknown quantity of hand grenade in your shop....

 

[nadogail]

As a minimum, remove the had to reach drain valve from the bottom of the tank, install a street ell run a long ****** to a quarter turn ball valve that is easily reached (maybe with your toe) and drain the condensate from the tank frequently.

My own compressor, a 20 Gallon Vertical, had one of those inconvenient tank drains. After considering what my lack of attention to blowing the moisture out of the tank could cost me, the few bucks to put a toe operated blow down valve looked like cheap insurance.

 

[lalojamesliz]

Quit messing with it.

I didn't see anything to worry about from the top area that I can see with my eyes and my flashlight. Very little rust and as for the bottom its covered in grease sludge. I'm just going to leave it alone like you guys say and I'll be draining it very often hoping al that stuff settles to the bottom with the pump vibration and flushed out when I drain it.
I'm going to bolt it to the floor on all 4 corners. I'll see if I need anti-vibration pads after some use. Thank you everyone