To Jack or not to Jack

[boulderz]

Hi all, looking for some advice. Have a 2 car garage which was built in 2007, well built with 1 exception, it has 7' ceilings and sliding carriage doors which do not seal at all and are uninsulated. I have been planning to jack up the garage (contractor will do it) an additional 2' to accommodate 8' high doors. I have a quote to do it for under a couple grand (not including doors). Before I pull the trigger, I wonder if I'm making the right decision. My desire to raise it has to do with having low overhead inside especially with the garage tracks hanging down (presume I can use 6 or 6.5' doors as is?).

So considering the cost to jack up the garage, should I just live with the low ceilings? Maybe it won't be as bad as I think.

 

[PassnThru]

For me, if I couldn't stand a 8 foot piece of plywood up in the garage that would be a problem. Once you get some lights in there the ceiling gets even lower.
I can't answer your question without more info. All I can say is if you have to borrow the money to do it then think twice - if you can do it with cash you won't regret it.

 

[James-W]

I would say it depends on what you plan to do in the garage. If all you do is park the cars in the garage, then you could probably get by the way it is. But if you want to work on stuff in the garage, then you will want taller ceilings.

 

[rsanter]

What is the cost of going another foot for 10' ceilings?

Bob

 

[Ainsley]

I jacked mine up and laid two courses of block, so about a 16" lift in the end. I did mine to correct some grade and drainage issues but I love the extra ceiling height.
I'd hate 8' ceilings. If I were you I'd just go to 10' while I was getting it done.

 

[boulderz]

The grand master plan is to add an additional 2-3 bays at some point (1 next to the existing 2 and 2 behind at perpendicular ell). That being said I can build the other bays normal or as high as I want. But I really don't know how long until I can do it. Could be years I guess.

Right now I have a small eye-talian car in there which needs no head room. But when I jack up my truck to change the oil, I can't even leave the hood open or it hits the joists. I don't understand why they built it this way, especially since it has a full 2nd floor for studio or workshop.

If I jack it up, I have to decide whether to use 3 course of block (24") or frame it down. Framing sounds easier but will be tricky to tie it into existing studs. Any thoughts?

 

[padroo]

I like the block idea myself, will you be doing any of the work? What does the contractor say, if you trust him I would let him do it the way he recommends.

 

[boulderz]

Sorry I responded as some responses were coming in. I think the cost to add an extra course or 2 would be very minimal, so could go to 9'8" for little more. I've had 2 contractors recommend different things. One is block, the other is to sister on to the the studs.

I am tempted to do the work but have little free time right now..kids and work and projects.

 

[jim whitney]

I would go with the block that way the original structure of the garage is still there just 2' higher .plus I think it,s a lot easier .

 

[APEowner]

Block is nice from a structural standpoint and it makes the lower part of the interior walls waterproof. If you can really get it done for that low of a cost I'd personally find it well worth it

 

[matt_i]

I'm in the frame-down with the caveat that some of the studs are full length (can be sistered).

Reason, if block is used, you have to tie the block to the slab or existing concrete wall, and then tie the wall to that. Assuming its just framed originally, there would probably be anchor bolts sticking out. One would want to (I would...) drill and epoxy in rebars that could be bent into the block. Also would want the block webs chipped out and a perimeter "belt" of rebar set in place, before they are filled back up with concrete. This sounds like a lot of detail to complete, before the building was set back down. My guess is that some of the details would be left out in the interest of meeting your price point.

 

[James-W]

I'm in the frame-down with the caveat that some of the studs are full length (can be sistered).

Reason, if block is used, you have to tie the block to the slab or existing concrete wall, and then tie the wall to that. Assuming its just framed originally, there would probably be anchor bolts sticking out. One would want to (I would...) drill and epoxy in rebars that could be bent into the block. Also would want the block webs chipped out and a perimeter "belt" of rebar set in place, before they are filled back up with concrete. This sounds like a lot of detail to complete, before the building was set back down. My guess is that some of the details would be left out in the interest of meeting your price point.

If he plans to go ahead and make the garage taller, then I agree with what you said. But I would think that EVERY stud should be full length instead of just SOME of them. The structure would be much stronger and the additional cost would be minimal.