to strap or not to strap, that is the question

[Mainiac Mat]

I guess this is a hot topic sometimes, but in the north east it's pretty common practice to strap any and all ceilings that are going to get sheet rocked with 1x3 nom softwood at 16" o.c.

My garage trusses are 24" o.c. and appear to be very level.

I'm debating about whether I need to strap the ceiling or not and I'm toying with the idea of just sistering up a 2x to the trusses wherever a sheet rock joint will be.

But I'm not sure if the rock will sag over 24"

I had considered using 5/8" rock as I have attic (room in roof) trusses and that would support the option to finish the attic into a habitable room (though it's doubtful I would ever do so).

What say yee the garage build gurus?

 

[cncjerry]

If it were me I would do 1x3 strapping every 16" and do 1/2" drywall. I have read you can get away with 5/8 drywall on 24" centers but seems risky to me.

 

[lis2323]

Your thread title immediately reminded me of elementary school.

When it came to discipline there was no question as far my principal was concerned.

Sadist MOFO he was....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[nadogail]

IMHO, 1/2" drywall on 16" centers is the better option.

My advice is Guaranteed to be worth exactly what you have paid me for it.

 

[Mainiac Mat]

I've never put up 5/8 rock before... but I'm a wee bit concerned about the weight. Logic says it's 25% heavier than 1/2".

I'll rent a panel lift either way... but it sounds a bit unwielding.

Another consideration is that I can't get 5/8 panels longer than 12'.... so at 26' wide, that means two but joints to mud instead of one.

 

[matt_i]

12' x 5/8" drywall not so bad. I and my 77yo Dad put every piece on a lifter and put it into place. Definitely saves on tape-joints.

The trusses were mostly good at 24" oc, I put them there that way. I had a couple places where I messed around with a hand plane but for the most part it was all good.

The 1x3 sounds like a lot of extra work up front but then you don't have to be precise with the drywall after that.

 

[Firebrick43]

Is the garage attached? If so 5/8” type X is pretty much required across the country by code for safety. 5/8 type x has a 1 hour fire rating.

Type C has a 2 hour fire rating on the ceiling(no advantage to type x on the walls). To be honest I don’t understand why residential code doesn’t require type c on the ceilings as cost difference is minimal. It’s hard to find type c at a big box store however but supply house are cheaper, delivery is normally free, and they will stack it in the house where you want where the big box store just where the piggyback forklift can get.

I really don’t understand why people are even talking about 1/2 on the ceiling due to safety/fire resistance

As far as a lift, I found it cheaper to buy a lift off of Amazon (even though it’s chinese) and then resell when done. It was much cheaper than a two day rental and I wasn’t rushed. In fact I haven’t sold mine yet and two friends have used it to put up metal panels in their pole builds so far. I think 125$ had it delivered to my door.

 

[couch67]

They make a 5/8" ultralight version now that meets garage firecode specs. Not sure how much lighter it is than the regular stuff.

 

[Firebrick43]

I have heard several places that the ultralight drywall is having cracking issues now that it’s been out several years. That’s anecdotal information however.

 

[couch67]

thats interesting. I did just look it up and it looks to only have a 30 minute fire rating, so that probably doesnt meet spec in many areas. Best to do your homework before spec'ing it.

 

[APEowner]

I did 5/8" rock on 24 inch centers in my shop in NY and other than the fact that 5/8" rock is not fun to work with overhead there were no issues.

 

[couch67]

+1 on strapping with 1x3 on 16 inch centers. A bit more work and expense up front but easier to hit the 1x3 with screws, and I think better resistance to screw pops, especially when you are walking on the truss chords in the attic.

 

[purplezr2]

I went with 5/8 on the ceiling of my garage, 24" on center. I paid to have mine hung, I hung the walls. Cost for 37 sheets hung on a 10.5" ceiling was 444 dollars.

 

[spudley]

I went with 5/8 on the ceiling of my garage, 24" on center. I paid to have mine hung, I hung the walls. Cost for 37 sheets hung on a 10.5" ceiling was 444 dollars.

Hmmm, I might have to rethink my plan as $444 isn't bad.

But to the OP...I'd be tempted to use the strapping @16" and use the 1/2" lightweight drywall (if allowed). Because I usually work alone, I'd also use 4 x 8 sheets with a lift. Always wondered why so many guys can build a garage but can't mud a drywall joint. Thin coats and feather wide on **** joints and you're good.

If hiring out or you have help, 5/8" will span 24" OC without sagging.

 

[jabelding]

I went with steel on the trusses, nice and white, great vapor barrier and easy to put up and best of all no mudding or taping! It also works great to stiffen up the structure its great in shear, tied all the walls into the corners. Put my insulation right on top of it.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=8283971&postcount=15
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=8419568&postcount=25

 

[Zmann]

we only order light weight 5/8's for walls and ceilings any more ( general contractor) even though it is only 15% lighter it helps mentally knowing it is lighter even if it does not make a huge difference lol
I have not seen or heard of cracking issues.
They also have a sound deadening drywall that might be something I would use if I built another shop ,, it thuds when you tap on it vs the knock sound of regular rock

 

[MushCreek]

Throughout my house and garage I strapped the ceiling 16" on center, and used 5/8" type X. I mostly strapped it because the trusses were so uneven, though. My biggest shim was 5/8"! I did the house with 1X lumber, but when I later did the garage, I found that common 2X4's were actually cheaper. With framing lumber currently made from unobtanium, I have no idea what the cost would be.

 

[larry4406]

New construction guy here from Northern VA/MD area, production homes.

We do not strap ceilings before drywall. As you said, I think its a regional thing in the north east. I had questioned this practice before on a thread here on this forum.

We have trusses typically 24" o/c with drywall directly attached. As needed, we sister the bottom chords to allow the drywall seams to break better (sometimes the bottom chord wanders left/right).

Floor joist spacing is selected to meet floor loads as well as flooring types. If the areas are carpeted and the structure allows, I-joists are set sometimes as much as 24" on center, typically 19.2", and in more critical areas even less (16" and sometimes 12"). Drywall is directly attached.

We specify drywall adhesive and 5 screws at each joist/truss location (one each end and 3 spaced equally across the field).

Now if your ceiling is grossly out of plane due to uneven bottom chords from old bowed roof system (which the OP says he does not have), then I could see an advantage of strapping/shimming.

 

[TommyK]

If you go to a real drywall supply house (not Home Depot) you can get 5/8" in 16 foot lengths. We only strapped ceilings when they were wavy and needed to be straightened. 24" oc is not an issue with 5/8.

Hanging 5/8 x16 sheetrock is not for the faint of heart.

 

[brownbagg]

mine is 1/2 drywall on 24o.c.with no strapping in the house, and 1/2 plywood on purlin in the shop, purlins are at 36 oc

been 19 years with no issues

 

[CraigStu]

I wonder what the overall weight difference is between 5/8 lite on it's own and 1/2 w/ 1x3 strapping?

 

[WNYflyer]

See if Table R702.3.5 along with the associated footnotes apply to your conditions.

https://up.codes/viewer/maine/irc-2015/chapter/7/wall-covering#7

 

[Mainiac Mat]

A sheet rock contractor I've used on projects (both my personal house addition and expansion projects at work) who is normally very competitive, quoted me $1,560 to install and mud and tape 5/8 rock on the ceiling (one heavy coat sanded) and another $385 to paint it with the heavy primer (which hides the seams and serves well as a finish coat).



I can buy the rock at the local distributor (not big box store) for $300... but they won't deliver a load that small. I have the means to pick it up.... so I'm thinking there's no way I can afford to not do this myself.

I've hung rock several times and as long as I have a panel lift, I don't mind it at all.

But I really dislike mudding and taping and am not especially good at it.

 

[APEowner]

Always wondered why so many guys can build a garage but can't mud a drywall joint.

Me too and I'm one of those guys! I can also build pretty much every part of a car and I can't do body filler.

 

[MushCreek]

I built my entire house- construction, electrical, plumbing, cabinetry, even A/C, but I don't mess with drywall. The few times I've tried, the results weren't pretty. I can't do auto body work, either.

 

[Lynden]

I used 1/2-inch Ceiling Board on the ceilings throughout my two-story house. The truss spacing upstairs is 24" o.c. No strapping was used. No sagging or other problems in 28 years.

https://www.usg.com/content/dam/USG...ing-board-sag-resistant-data-sheet-en-can.pdf

 

[The Cobbler]

I don't see 1/2" drywall sagging on 24" centers in the many hundreds of places Ive worked in over the years... even ceilings with insulation on-top of the drywall.

 

[Tduby]

I built my entire house- construction, electrical, plumbing, cabinetry, even A/C, but I don't mess with drywall. The few times I've tried, the results weren't pretty. I can't do auto body work, either.

Me too i was part of everything but the roof and drywall I’m not doing heights and I don’t have artistic skill for drywall finishing. Besides those guys are so fast and so good at what they do it is hard to do it yourself and keep the schedule and quality.

 

[jkeyser14]

I would absolutely avoid 1/2" on 24" centers at all costs. 5/8" on 24" centers works well. 1/2" on 16" centers strapping should also work well. HOWEVER, the seams will likely crack with both options when you finish the space above due to all the added weight and construction related activities above.