Toe Kick heater size and brand

[65ranchero]

We are just getting into doing a complete remodel of our kitchen and rearranging /adding a cabinet base.
The added cabinet will be going where a 4' section of hydronic base board is located now.
I want to keep that heater location and the answer is a toe kick heater.
I am trying to get a grip on BTUs I should look for (according to a quick search) that BB there already is 600btu per ft., so my math says that is 2400 btu's from that section.
This on comes up https://www.supplyhouse.com/Beacon-Morris-K42-K42-Twin-Flo-III-Kick-Space-Heater
which is twice the btu's.
My questions are;
Is this too much btu's
Is this a reliable brand
Can a thermostat be added so the blower does not run all the time (I do see that it may turn on and off but not sure)
Any other brands to consider?
How can this be serviced if there is a blower motor failure?
Any comments will be appreciated.

And any real-life experience with any of these ?

 

[cgrutt]

I had a toe kick heater in kitchen of a vacation house it worked surprisingly well and was hooked up to thermostat. It was electric though not baseboard. Imagine there is no reason you couldn't hook to thermostat but you may want to put on its own zone if that is feasible. I'd consider installing a false bottom in cabinet for future access to blower.

 

[65ranchero]

Thanks, after I posted the question, I did a little more reading and it looks like there is an included aqua stat that will turn the blower on.
With that said the motor is a 30.7 watt motor with .5 amp draw.
They do recommend cutting the bottom out. This will a simple op. because this will be a custom made to order cabinet.
I don't think I'll need a separate t'stat or a separate zone.

 

[dave*99]

Thanks, after I posted the question, I did a little more reading and it looks like there is an included aqua stat that will turn the blower on.
With that said the motor is a 30.7 watt motor with .5 amp draw.
They do recommend cutting the bottom out. This will a simple op. because there will be a custom made to order cabinet.
I don't think I'll need a separate t'stat or a separate zone.

I installed the same Beacon Morris unit for someone about 2 years ago. It's straightforward. As you learned there is an aquastat and 2 speed fan. It's quiet and works well. I was replacing the original unit that was the same model and more than 30 years old. It worked fine but this was a full kitchen remodel so we went with new.

The kitchen/DR/LR were all on the same zone.

I installed the heater first, then the cabinet being sure the heater would be in the center of the toe kick at the correct depth. I cut the hole a bit larger than the heater and used a finished piece of 1/4" plywood to cover the hole edge to edge of the base cabinet. Plumbing for the sink came through the floor so I stayed away from the back few inches of the cabinet floor.

Cutting the hole in the toe kick required a bit more precision. Be sure to locate the heater properly so the switch/grill align with the front of the toe kick.

 

[65ranchero]

Dave*99 thanks for the feedback
I'm probably going to have a removable bottom made since the cabinet is custom .
Put cleats on the side and lay the bottom on the cleats attach with screws.

 

[75gmck25]

I used a Beacon Morris Twin-Flow III toe-kick heater for our kitchen renovation and it works really well. However, I'm not sure I can find the exact specs of the one we purchased.

I cut most of the bottom of the cabinet out, but left space at the back and on each side to support the slides for a low sided slide-out drawer. The cut out piece is 3/4" plywood, supported by a metal bracket under each corner, so it won't drop down on the heater.
To get to the heater I first pull the drawer all the way out and release the slide stops. Then I use a knife to get under one edge of the cutout piece and lift it completely out. After that I have access to all the water and electrical connections on the heater.

My boiler runs at 140 degrees max, and at about 125-130 degrees most of the time. IIRC the Myson aquastat turns on the fan when water is circulating and the temp hits about 90-100 degrees. I leave the two-speed blower on low, and it definitely kicks out enough heat when the fan starts up.

 

[dave*99]

Dave*99 thanks for the feedback
I'm probably going to have a removable bottom made since the cabinet is custom .
Put cleats on the side and lay the bottom on the cleats attach with screws.

Sounds good. Much simpler if you don’t have pipes running up through the bottom.