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Toilet corrosion

Bwana

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Sep 11, 2012
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Santa Fe, NM
Here's a shot of a toilet in the shop. No, it's not what you think it it, it appears to be rust or something. This toilet is used very infrequently so I'm suspecting it's from the water just sitting in it for long periods of time. Any suggestions on how to clean it? CLR perhaps? It doesn't come off with regular toilet cleaner.

IMG_2871_zpsgfoai2kn.jpg
 
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D45

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NW INDIANA
Pour a jug of CLR in there and let it sit overnight

How's the tank look inside? The same I bet
 

58Yeoman

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Central IL
You may have a high iron content in your water. Pour a cup of Iron Out in the tank and the bowl and let it sit for a couple hours.
 

Jess

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Oct 22, 2006
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Vancouver Island, BC Canada
High iron content in the water will do this. Cheaper toilets don't have as smooth a finish as some models available and are harder to clean. In rentals, we started using a better quality low flush toilet and the staining issue isn't as bad. Some tenants units are spotless and others, well not so much. Regular cleaning would help. As already mentioned CLR or any product the has oxalic acid will remove the stains. Clean the tank as its likely contributing to the issue if its not flushed often.
 

lazer50

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east central indiana
My brother has terrible water and has top of the line toilets he uses rust out i believe its called.he gets it at either wal mart or Lowe's.ive seen him pour it in and the rust disappears in seconds.
 

rlitman

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You can scrub the bowl with a pumice cleaning stick too, if the chemicals are too slow.

Are you using a chlorine tablet, or something that chlorinates the water? That can get iron to deposit more quickly.

I would not suggest using anything in the tank.
 

gungatim

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Jan 8, 2013
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west mich
Get the water out as suggested,use Wink rust remover,then an in bowl bleach releasing tablet to keep it from reforming.

wink rust remover is the best thing ever. I have recommended it many times on here. that rust will disappear almost instantly as you squirt it on. works great on tools and other things too.

problem is it's expensive, you'll end up using a few bottles at least. Iron out is much cheaper but nowhere near as fast acting.

CLR has never removed rust in/on anything I have ever tried. it barely dissolves calcium. Lime it's better on.
 
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REDONE

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Lakewood, CO
CLR has never removed rust in/on anything I have ever tried. it barely dissolves calcium. Lime it's better on.

Indubitably. An old rotting waterheater stained both the showers in my old house. Tried using CLR, it didn't work worth a darn. Wound up doing a side by side comparison and found that elbow grease and Ajax was just as effective regardless of whether I used CLR or not.

fortunately a google search turned me on to the Whink rust remover (might have been you!) or I doubt I would have ever got the grout cleaned up.:rocker:
 

Larryjones

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WV
A wife will take care of that, much easier than any thing else you will try.
 

REDONE

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My wife is an environmental remediation engineer for big oil. This trophy husband has no problem scrubbing toilets.:thumbup:
 
Last edited:

Zeke

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Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
Take swimming pool acid and put it on an empty bowl full strength with a rag and gloves, of course. Don't breathe while you do this quickly. It should take 30 seconds before you pour in a rinse.
 
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Bwana

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Santa Fe, NM
Outstand answers, thanks guys! I tried the CLR and indeed, almost no effect. I'll try the Wink rust remover next. Yes, probably not in the tank as that may damage some of the float/levers
 

REDONE

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Lakewood, CO
Definitely! It's "Whink" with the "h" in there and I got it in the white bottle (professional strength, if that really means it's different) at ACE, but I've seen it in the brown bottle at Wally world and Kroger.
 

rlitman

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Outstand answers, thanks guys! I tried the CLR and indeed, almost no effect. I'll try the Wink rust remover next. Yes, probably not in the tank as that may damage some of the float/levers

CLR works very slowly. The phosphoric acid in it dissolves rust slowly, though safely. That's why it works well in coffee makers, though it might take days of soaking to make a difference in this toilet.

Ospho is the metal paint prep chemical that's a stronger phosphoric acid, plus a detergent. It would give similar results. It might work well if allowed to soak over a weekend. Either of these will work better if hot.

Bar Keeper's Friend uses oxalic acid. It converts rust into a clear soluble form, but works best with some frictional help. I really prefer the powder to the liquid, as I can mix just a few drops of water with a bunch of powder to form a thicker paste that works better. If you're going for the elbow grease solution, this would be it, and as I said above, pumice will help greatly. Pumice sticks:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Pumie-Scouring-Stick-HDW-12T/202529733?keyword=pumice+stick
are made for just this. They will NOT scratch porcelain, and are amazing at cleaning toilets, if you really feel like gloving up and reaching in there. They're also amazing on ceramic stove tops (although they are not safe on the glass control panels), though I'd suggest buying separate sticks for each task. ;)

Muriatic acid will dissolve the rust VERY quickly. Though I would not suggest this route without serious caution and preparation (including splash proof face protection). It will bubble and splash, the tiniest droplets will burn holes in your clothing (or skin), and the fumes within the bowl could easily reach deadly proportions.

Last on this list is Whink rust remover. I'd seriously suggest using muriatic acid (aka pool acid or hydrochloric acid) before using this. I just looked up the MSDS on it, and the active ingredient is hydrofluoric acid. Forgetting for the moment the effects of even dilute HF on the human body, let's just focus on the toilet. Yes, HF will rapidly dissolve the rust, but it will also etch the porcelain, leaving it more vulnerable to future "rusting". Just imagine suggesting using a sandblaster to remove bird poop from your vehicle's paint.
 
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