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Toilet offset? Only 11-1/2"! D'Oh!

Lu-Max

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Jan 8, 2014
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Question, I have not purchased a toilet for my new shop yet, but I just measured the center of the 3" ABS waste pipe to the finished and painted wall, and I only have exactly 11-1/2". D'oh!

I know there are some 10" offset toilets available, but I'm curious how much wiggle room there is between the lid and finished wall on the rear of most standard 12" offset toilets?

The easy solution is to find a 10" offset, but then I would have a big gap between the tank and wall. I want to avoid this if possible.

I am not interested in an offset flange because the floor is 6" rebar reinforced concrete, I really don't want to spend time chipping away at that to get an offset flange in there.

Do you think a 12" offset will still fit? Maybe use a couple of toilet shims under the back of the base to lean it forward just enough to get a bit more wall clearance for the tank lid?

Thoughts? Thanks!
 
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Bluearmflames

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The dimensions are heavily dependent on manufacturer. Your best bet is to look at the cut sheets for the toilet your planning on installing.
 

TuxThePenguin

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Do you think a 12" offset will still fit? Maybe use a couple of toilet shims under the back of the base to lean it forward just enough to get a bit more wall clearance for the tank lid?

I only have one comment for this thread and it is, dear god, please don't lean your toilet forward. Toilets are already uncomfortable enough.
 

jd_1138

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If you have to use the 10 inch offset toilet, you can always install a horizontal piece of wood behind it to fill in the gap then add a small shelf above that to put TP, soap, cleaner, etc. on. You don't really want a gap because if rough *** people use the toilet they may rock it back and forth and screw it up. It's better to have some support back there.
 

Stuart in MN

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What is the wall construction behind it? If it's a conventional stud wall, it would be a lot of work but you could possibly take it apart and rebuild with slightly narrower studs.
 

Bluearmflames

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My previous statement stands. Some 12” toilets are 11” or 11 1/2” or 11 3/4” center to rear of tank lid. So you either have to look at the toilet manufacturer cut sheets before buying or risk it not fitting.
 

johnnyradiant

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A lot of the 12" toilets I have worked with will fit. Do not shim out of level. 10" seem to be more prevalent within my circles in my corner of the continent. There are offset flanges available so that if the 12" toilet you pick needs more space you will be able to fit it without shimming and never knowing you didn't account for the drywall on the studs. Years ago I used get books from my wholesaler from the manufactures that listed all the specs. Don't know if there is still such a convenience, now that we save all those trees, but, they are almost always available on the net.
 

nadogail

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IMHO, based on my observation in various buildings, there is usually some clearance between the toilet and the wall behind it.
 

Kevin54

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If the lid is the problem, but the back flange of the lid off. Or make a new flanged lid out of diamond plate and decorate the bathroom with car related stuff so everything blends together.
 
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Lu-Max

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The dimensions are heavily dependent on manufacturer. Your best bet is to look at the cut sheets for the toilet your planning on installing.

You are correct.
I found a Toto model that has an 11-1/2" offset, perfect.
I had to look at about 20 PDFs before I found it, but it should be perfect.
 

ddawg16

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You are correct.
I found a Toto model that has an 11-1/2" offset, perfect.
I had to look at about 20 PDFs before I found it, but it should be perfect.

If it's a Toto Drake II, you will love it. I have 2 of them. Easy to clean and they can handle anything I **** into them.
 

mike93lx

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If you have to use the 10 inch offset toilet, you can always install a horizontal piece of wood behind it to fill in the gap then add a small shelf above that to put TP, soap, cleaner, etc. on. You don't really want a gap because if rough *** people use the toilet they may rock it back and forth and screw it up. It's better to have some support back there.

I have never lived in a house where any part of the toilet touches the back wall and I would never install a toilet that way
 

egdede

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^^^Yeah, the rough *** people be breaking the tank where it's bolted to the pedestal.
 
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Lu-Max

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If it's a Toto Drake II, you will love it. I have 2 of them. Easy to clean and they can handle anything I **** into them.

Thanks ddawg16, this is important information.

Lepe's Taqueria near my home makes an "El Gordo" carne asada burrito that has brought all 3 of my existing toilets to their knees. It will be a badge of honor for the Toto if it can muster the strength to one-flush an El Gordo.
 

CJ7VFR

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My toilet flange was a bit less then 12”. The Koehler toilet I bought fit fine although it is tight to wall.

In my downstairs bathroom we had to replace the toilet a few years ago. The center of the drain pipe in the floor was just shy of 12 inches from the wall.

I bought a Kohler Cimarron toilet that has a higher seat height than normal, and the instructions said it required a minimum of 12 inches from the wall to be able to install it.

I figured that 1/2 inch might kill me, but in the end it did not. I dry fitted the toilet base over the drain and there was some clearance between the back bottom part of the base and the wall. Then I dry fitted the tank and tank lid to the base and the tank had clearance as well.

I just went into the bathroom and measured the clearance and there is 2 inches between the wall and the bottom of the base, and there is also 2 inches of clearance between the wall the lid on the tank.

So, even if the center of the drain pipe was 11 inches or 10.5 inches from the wall the Kohler Cimarron toilet would still have had some clearance from the wall.

I agree with others here. Get a toilet, bring it home, and dry fit it over the drain pipe and see if you will have clearance. When you dry fit it, install the two bolts onto the drain flange so that you will know you are centered over the drain when you dry fit the toilet to check for clearance.

Jim
 
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Bigblockyeti

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My toilets aren't all the same, but the 12" offset seems to have been pretty spot on for all rough in work. The backs vary from 5/8" - 1" from the 1/2" drywall. I think you'll be fine.

If you're really worried, get a 10" offset and lean it back to your desired gap, it'll be like a porcelain recliner.
 
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Lu-Max

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I purchased and installed a Toto Drake II. It fit perfectly, but tight.
I have a 1/8" gap between the back of the toilet lid and the finished wall.
Whew!

Drake%20II%20installed.jpg
 

mishkaya

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I purchased and installed a Toto Drake II. It fit perfectly, but tight.
I have a 1/8" gap between the back of the toilet lid and the finished wall.
Whew!

Now the big question is: Have you been to Lepe's yet? If so, how did the toilet fare? :bounce:
 

67carl

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I purchased and installed a Toto Drake II. It fit perfectly, but tight.
I have a 1/8" gap between the back of the toilet lid and the finished wall.
Whew!

Drake%20II%20installed.jpg

Looks good. What's the name/manufacturer of that black floor tile? When we were in Hawaii a few years ago we stayed at the Hilton Naniloa in Hilo. They were just wrapping up a total reno and had this tile (in my pics below) extensively throughout. It looks just like yours.

When we got home and started our bathroom we decided we wanted that tile. It reminded us of Hawaii and our journey through the old lava fields to see the new lava flowing in the ocean.

It was a pain to find the manufacturer and name - I ended up finding the reno contractor through Hilo newspaper articles about the construction and talked to a dozen people before I found it.

Edit - just found the name: basalt natural carbon.
 

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azchrisf

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Phoenix, AZ
Toto's are good toilets. Even the daunted Champion 4 has been dethroned by my occasional visit to Lepe's. ��
 
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Lu-Max

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I haven't done the Lepe's test yet, I still have to install this first.

bidet_resize.jpg
 

frankd

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My previous statement stands. Some 12” toilets are 11” or 11 1/2” or 11 3/4” center to rear of tank lid. So you either have to look at the toilet manufacturer cut sheets before buying or risk it not fitting.

I agree with this. Look at the spec sheet for the toilet. Also, to further confuse things, some toilet spec sheets measure from the center of the drain to the end of the toilet and some measure to the wall (I think American Standard measures to the wall) but it doesnt say that in the drawings.
I went through the same thing when remodeling my bathroom. Some 12" toilets will sit well over 1/2' from the wall and some will sit pretty tight.
 
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Lu-Max

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No, but one is labeled "massage" and I am definitely intrigued.
 

bimmer1980

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Feb 5, 2009
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York, PA
Does the bidet attachment require a hot and a cold water supply??

I'm in the planning phases of my garage bathroom and was contemplating running a hot and a cold valve for the toilet supply....... The hot water supply line will run behind the toilet on the way to the sink.....
 

SALIV8

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chicago and s/w michigan
Does the bidet attachment require a hot and a cold water supply??

I'm in the planning phases of my garage bathroom and was contemplating running a hot and a cold valve for the toilet supply....... The hot water supply line will run behind the toilet on the way to the sink.....

Not any of the ones i was looking at. However, like the OPs pic, if you want hot water youll need an outlet close by to plug the bidet into.

Honestly the cold water feels good to me. Kinda cools my ***. Lol.
 
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Lu-Max

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My bidet seat has a built in water heater, so just one hookup for cold with an online tee for the tank.
 

branimal

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Lu-Max; said:
I purchased and installed a Toto Drake II. It fit perfectly, but tight.

I have a 1/8" gap between the back of the toilet lid and the finished wall.

Whew!



Drake%20II%20installed.jpg



Thank you sir - I have the same exact problem.
 
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