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Toilet rough in

kursplat

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so, we need to replace the toilet. the existing bolts are 11 1/2" from wall and the tank is right up against the wall. did they manage to get a 12" toilet to fit where a 10" should have gone? or will most 12" toilets fit this ok?

thanks
 
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ddawg16

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I believe they make toilets with an offset.

But, you can also get an offset flange if you need to move it out away from the wall.

But....at 11.5"...me thinks you're ok
 
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kursplat

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thanks everyone.

normal rough in is 12" from finished wall. some toilets are more forgiving in that dimension than others.
that's what i was thinking so i guess i'll find out for sure when i test fit it


I believe they make toilets with an offset.

But, you can also get an offset flange if you need to move it out away from the wall.

But....at 11.5"...me thinks you're ok

check. if it's too close i'll see how much work is involved in swapping out the flange. i'll just take sixty4's word for it and dive in :thumbup:
 

Zippercat

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yup, but i measured to the wall it's self

By “wall itself” I presume you’re measuring to the outside of the drywall? A rough offset is measured to the stud. You have a correct 12” offset.
 

ddawg16

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Have you bought the new toilet yet? If not, I'd suggest the Toto Drake II

My flange is setup at 12" from the drywall....and I have at least a good 1" between the tank and wall.
 

Balvar24

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Download submittal drawing on the toilet you want. Most have rough-in dimensions. Old plumbing trick. Read the instructions before you start.
 

ddawg16

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One Piece? Naw.....it's so much easier to set or remove a toilet when you can remove the tank.

My method.....

With the bottom only....dry place on the floor (no wax ring) and set the position. Put down some tape and mark the exact pos you want.

Pull base up and turn upside down.
Using white Silicone caulk, run a 1/4" bead around the base of the toilet. Leave a 2" gap at the back.
Let sit for about 45 min until not tacky.
Install wax ring
Put base down using the alignment marks.
Lightly Snug down bolts. Some of the Silicone might squeeze out. Smooth it out.
Let sit over night.
Tighten bolts.
Install tank.
Call it done.

That 2" gap? That is in case you have a wax ring leak. You will see water back there. Call it an 'early warning' sign.
 
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Bighead38

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I think that is the one I had and it was horrible. Ripped it out after a few months. I wouldn’t have chosen it in the first place. The one I’m talking about had this weird long “s” Piece that bolted to the floor and ran towards the wall and up into the toilet.

If it has this design do not get it.

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59 wagon man

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I hate silicone on toilets. can't tell you how many times even after running a knife around the toilet the silicone lifts a tile glued to the toilet especially those little 1" squares. either grout or plaster has worked for decades. plus depending on the slope of the floor you may never see a leak with the silicone
 

cosmopedro

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I hate silicone on toilets. can't tell you how many times even after running a knife around the toilet the silicone lifts a tile glued to the toilet especially those little 1" squares. either grout or plaster has worked for decades. plus depending on the slope of the floor you may never see a leak with the silicone



I agree... grout, plaster or even a silicone-fortified acrylic caulk works, and when (notice I didn’t say if) you have to pull the toilet there’s much less of a chance to damage flooring...

My .02 worth...


Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app
 

59 wagon man

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plus you can have a leak which travels between the slab and the tile with silicone it only makes the leak easier to go undetected till it surfaces in another room or area
 

ddawg16

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I hate silicone on toilets. can't tell you how many times even after running a knife around the toilet the silicone lifts a tile glued to the toilet especially those little 1" squares. either grout or plaster has worked for decades. plus depending on the slope of the floor you may never see a leak with the silicone

I agree... grout, plaster or even a silicone-fortified acrylic caulk works, and when (notice I didn’t say if) you have to pull the toilet there’s much less of a chance to damage flooring...

My .02 worth...


Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app

Entitled to your opinion....but for my toilets, I'll keep doing it my way.

My floors are flat....so not worries about not seeing a leak. But, then again, mine don't leak.

With the white silicone, I don't have the discoloration issues you get with grout or plaster.

Pulling the toilet? I've only had to pull one of them once....to dislodge a frog stuck inside. 3 Year old boy wanted to see if it would float with his turds....no issues getting it up. My tiles don't pop off.
 
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kursplat

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just to close this out, we ended up going with a TOTO MS853113E. no problems with the fit and ended up with just over an inch of space to the wall because of the tank profile. this one does not have the elbow that Bighead38 mentioned. funny the plumber even mentioned how much he dislikes those. my wife's happy with it too, i let her drive it around the block first, and she says it's a keeper :thumbup:
thanks to everyone for the help
 

Bighead38

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just to close this out, we ended up going with a TOTO MS853113E. no problems with the fit and ended up with just over an inch of space to the wall because of the tank profile. this one does not have the elbow that Bighead38 mentioned. funny the plumber even mentioned how much he dislikes those. my wife's happy with it too, i let her drive it around the block first, and she says it's a keeper :thumbup:
thanks to everyone for the help

That elbow was a nightmare, sucked to install and it clogged so easily. Don’t think it lasted a year before I ripped it out. Back to a toilet that can actually flush.
 
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