75gmck25
Well-known member
For those of you who are still reading, and are still interested in picking out a toilet, you might try this site's "Toilet forum". https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php
Toilet Selection???
- Thread starter karoc
- Start date
The irony....
That was already posted:
I like Terry Love's website for plumbing advice. It has a toilet forum.
https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php
Search results for query: toilet recommendation
Nick Rivers
Well-known member
From the Terry Love website: A video of a Caroma Dual Flush Toilet flushing Russet potatoes: (Note: the person in the video is Eddie Wilcut, the Water Conservation Manager for the City of San Antonio)
micromind
Well-known member
How does it do with a toothbrush?
Yes, it can handle 50 golf balls, 2 nuclear submarines and 5 rolls of toilet paper but what about a basic toothbrush?
I've never unclogged a toilet with golf balls or potatoes but I've unclogged plenty of them with a toothbrush jammed in the horn (the bottom part of the discharge right where it dumps into the pipe) and Qtips.
billconner
Well-known member
iirc consumer reports use golf ball size lumps of vasoline.
There's not a standard toilet out there that I'm aware of that will flush it toothbrush. How long is the toothbrush 6"? 8"?
It's going to get stuck sideways..
PopcornSutton
Well-known member
Thought I would add to this thread. After watching and reading it all, I decided I would get a A-S Titan. There seems to be one place they can be bought, and they aren't close to me. Menards has them, the closest to me is almost 4 hour drive, and to ship it would cost $235 or so. So I canned that idea and got a A-S Cadet Pro.
I've spent several days stripping out old flooring, underlayment and backing. Replaced the vanity and sink with new. Pulled out the old toilet, stripped the flooring down like the other areas and layed in new ceramic flooring. I was surprised the toilet flange was 1/8-3/16 above the new tile, good to go. Got on of those Fluidmaster seals, new closet bolts, set the toilet down and it's rocking around like crazy. I had not noticed any issue with the floor while doing the rest of the work, checked the floor with a 4 foot level all around, lays flat. Turn the toilet upside down and checked the toilet. Just in front of the outlet hole there is a casting part I assume was for support. It is placed ahead of the toilet flange, the flange would set in between this support and the outlet. This support was at least 1/8" higher than the perimeter casting. The outlet hole was a little proud on the perimeter, but that will fit in the flange. So I take it outside and use my angle grinder with a diamond blade and grind this down to just below the perimeter. Back in the house, down over the bolts and it sits there steady as it should. When I was grinding the bottom, a big MEXICO was cast in the porcelain.
I've spent several days stripping out old flooring, underlayment and backing. Replaced the vanity and sink with new. Pulled out the old toilet, stripped the flooring down like the other areas and layed in new ceramic flooring. I was surprised the toilet flange was 1/8-3/16 above the new tile, good to go. Got on of those Fluidmaster seals, new closet bolts, set the toilet down and it's rocking around like crazy. I had not noticed any issue with the floor while doing the rest of the work, checked the floor with a 4 foot level all around, lays flat. Turn the toilet upside down and checked the toilet. Just in front of the outlet hole there is a casting part I assume was for support. It is placed ahead of the toilet flange, the flange would set in between this support and the outlet. This support was at least 1/8" higher than the perimeter casting. The outlet hole was a little proud on the perimeter, but that will fit in the flange. So I take it outside and use my angle grinder with a diamond blade and grind this down to just below the perimeter. Back in the house, down over the bolts and it sits there steady as it should. When I was grinding the bottom, a big MEXICO was cast in the porcelain.
driftpin
Well-known member
Are you going to use grout to seat the base of the toilet? That works well for stopping any rocking, though you say you already solved it. We had four new bathrooms built-out and grout was what the plumbing inspector wanted to see around the toilet bases. A small open space at the rear will allow visual evidence of any leakage down the road.
Best flush = air assisted Flushmate equipped toilets. Half a dozen manufacturers carry them. Gerber has 44 models to choose from:
Install with a Fernco wax free fitting and eliminate the wax rings.
If you don't need handicap capability, stick with a lower seat height for health reasons. Higher seat height cause improper squatting posture. Higher sitting keeps a kink in your lower bowel. That forces you to work harder to push out waste. Squatting relaxes your puborectalis muscle more and straightens out your colon, giving the waste a straight route out. As a result, you can go more easily with less straining.
You can install grab bars to raise yourself up. If you are set on a higher seat height, there are inexpensive stands that allow for a squatting position.
Maybe you all have different gut plumbing than me but I can't think of a time I've had to force a turd out.
Maybe basic training nearly 25 years ago.
The units that are proper height are way easier on my back and hips.
The low riders, about need a grab bar to pull myself up from!
My Dad put a lift kit on their ******* for when he had hip surgery. I love it.
cherrybomb
Well-known member
That is a really good tip to bring here,check both parts for flatness.
PopcornSutton
Well-known member
The toilet sits fine now, I'll just caulk the sides and front and call it good. It has a quick and strong flush, the wife likes it, she uses that bathroom.