sz0k30
Well-known member
At my house I have 35" wall to wall. Can't imagine 24".
Toilet side distsnce
- Thread starter bluedog225
- Start date
acer66
Well-known member
Whens I did my house with two bathrooms my trusted plumber told me that at least one should satisfy the ADA requirements for resale value.
But PCustoms point is the most important one.
rlitman
Well-known member
Maybe, but 24' is one hell of a span to tile over.
manwithtools
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Sounds like OP is not using tile.
Fav Onefour
Well-known member
Plumber's box?
I love the floor joist build. It would be a bummer to redo some framing, but. . . .
My place had bath plumbing roughed in the slab. When it was time to do that bath, I realized the C to C placement put the toilet at 14" with finished walls. I did a mock up and figured it would be fine. It was fine for years until my mother came by after her hip replacement. The tight spacing was difficult. She was nervous and uncomfortable using that bathroom.
I learned a little lesson with that situation. What works for me might not be the only answer.
I love the floor joist build. It would be a bummer to redo some framing, but. . . .
My place had bath plumbing roughed in the slab. When it was time to do that bath, I realized the C to C placement put the toilet at 14" with finished walls. I did a mock up and figured it would be fine. It was fine for years until my mother came by after her hip replacement. The tight spacing was difficult. She was nervous and uncomfortable using that bathroom.
I learned a little lesson with that situation. What works for me might not be the only answer.
OP
bluedog225
Well-known member
I have never in my life heard of a corner toilet. Interesting. I’ll have to check that out. Thanks.
We had one of these in a former house and it worked fine. The guts, etc are identical to a standard toilet.
You still need to check your joist location to make sure the corner rough in location works for you.
rlitman
Well-known member
Me either. I've seen plenty of corner sinks and showers, so I guess this shouldn't be a surprise, but it seems to solve a lot of space issues.
Jim greengo
Well-known member
30" is 30" if need to start moving floor joists to move it an inch and it's not being inspected,I wouldn't worry about it myself.The inner webs tell me I’ve got to place my toilet a minimum of 15 inches from the finished side wall. The sources I look at make a point to emphasize this.
I can do 14 inches or I can do 24 inches to avoid the joists under the floor. I’ve mocked it up at 14 inches.
While it’s tight, I think I can live with it. I’m out in the country and this is a cabin so code is not an issue.
I could use the saved space. But I don’t want to do something stupid.
You guys seem to know this stuff. What do you think?
Thanks
Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
My master bath is 14.5" and I have never experienced a problem and could easily give up the extra .5". My old house had a half bath off the master bedroom that was even tighter. The only time I had an issue there was when my Mom's jade necklace went down the toilet and I had to pull the toilet to retrieve - it was a pain to pull the toilet and get it past the sink that protruded into the area in front of the toilet.
larry4406
Well-known member
Can you change the offending wall? Move it or change it to flat framed? Changing a 2x4 wall to flat framed you pick up 2”.
rlitman
Well-known member
Walls get flexible and don't have the depth for an electrical box when you do that. 2x3 can be made to work in some cases though.
Jacko264
Well-known member
Make it wide enough so you can sit there and read a news paper 
larry4406
Well-known member
Yes they can get flexible when flat framed. They do make electric boxes that work for these situations though.
OP has 1-1/8” subfloor. Then let’s assume he has ceramic or hardwood with a typical build of about 3/4”. So he has 1-7/8” from bottom of toilet flange to top of LVL joist. An offset flange will work here.
manwithtools
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Larry the OP has stated earlier he has some thin Armstrong commercial flooring. I still see no reason and offset flange would not work. If he is careful with placement, I'm sure he could make it work.
dcg9381
Well-known member
At least you're supporting a dying industry.Make it wide enough so you can sit there and read a news paper
firebirdparts
Well-known member
You're the one that's going to sit on it, so you can do that if you like.
SouthernIllinois
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2024
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Bought my Mom & Dad's estate when they passed.
The main floor bathroom is small as it is but they had a single pedestal sink and a dresser for a vanity.
We gutted it. I had a vanity custom built as large as I could to get two sinks and get some counter space.
I used the existing toilet plumbing.
It's tight but not uncomfortable.
I don't have any regrets in regard to the toilet/vanity placement.
Code is a nonissue out here in the country.
Before:
After (Still not done - waiting on mirrors, trim and drawer pulls)
The main floor bathroom is small as it is but they had a single pedestal sink and a dresser for a vanity.
We gutted it. I had a vanity custom built as large as I could to get two sinks and get some counter space.
I used the existing toilet plumbing.
It's tight but not uncomfortable.
I don't have any regrets in regard to the toilet/vanity placement.
Code is a nonissue out here in the country.
Before:
After (Still not done - waiting on mirrors, trim and drawer pulls)
Cripes, I have been in houses with 24" centers and 3/4 wafer board flooring, and nothing else. I felt like you might fall trough the floor it was so bouncy.
14" lams on 12" centers with 1-1/2" Advantec, you could park a semi-truck in that place!
manwithtools
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I did miss quote one thing, the flooring is 1-1/8", not 1-1/2", but regardless...
cmandp
Well-known member
I'd suggest going more than 15" rather than less, just from experience.
I should add that your remodel looks great, not trying to knock you down.
Yikes, I'd hate using that toilet. I would hit my elbow on the vanity every single time.
I should add that your remodel looks great, not trying to knock you down.
Last edited:
Fav Onefour
Well-known member
Another factor is the tp holder. If you do a wall mount with tight space, make it out of something like pallet racking. Those chintzy decorative buggers will get busted off in a hurry.
Well.... This IS the Garage Journal...OMG,I was just being sarcastic about the 4" of highly polished concrete. I have no idea what the OP plans for finished floor material.
SouthernIllinois
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LOL...it's not quite as tight as it might appear in that picture.
I nor my wife have had an issue with it.
To be completely honest, when I came up with the dimensions for the new vanity the old toilet was already removed and I didn't realize it would be quite that tight....lol
It works for us and I'm not about to redo it
dcg9381
Well-known member
Blocking.
SouthernIllinois
Well-known member
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If you can’t do blocking, I have cut a 1x4, screwed it to studs and used construction adhesive as well on the back side and then mounted the TP holder to it with 3/4” long screws.
It’s not going anywhere.
It’s not going anywhere.
Fav Onefour
Well-known member
I've used blocking to make it easier to install the next round. It helps quite a bit and saves on the walls.
Whenever I do a bathroom, I put a good sized chunk of plywood behind the sheet rock. Some people are just hard on stuff and the brackets still get busted loose.
Whenever I do a bathroom, I put a good sized chunk of plywood behind the sheet rock. Some people are just hard on stuff and the brackets still get busted loose.
rlitman
Well-known member
I put down 1-1/8" Advantech for subfloor on my last bathroom, and used the extra pieces behind places I might need to mount stuff. On a suggestion I forget the source, I bought a cheap pocket hole screw drill kit, cut strips of the excess subfloor to fit between the studs, and screwed them to the studs with the pocket hole screws.
Fav Onefour
Well-known member
The pocket hole mount is a cool idea. I generally use 2 X 2 blocking screwed to studs behind the plywood.
OP
bluedog225
Well-known member
I usually hack up round holes I attempt by hand. Just never works out.
I think this came out pretty good all things considered. Just fits the offset flange. Gives me a solid 16 inches from the wall.
The CD trick worked great. Used a keyhole saw on the lvl for more control.
Thanks all.
I think this came out pretty good all things considered. Just fits the offset flange. Gives me a solid 16 inches from the wall.
The CD trick worked great. Used a keyhole saw on the lvl for more control.
Thanks all.