Toilet tank flush valve lock nut stuck

[Kuma601]

One night the Mrs. was on her way into the bathroom when she heard a pop followed by the sound of water hitting the floor. Was able to get it shut off and tank drained/flushed so a minimal amount of water needed to be wiped up. The crack ran from the lever opening diagonally down the tank. When removing the lever, the opening was filled with crusty hard water deposits which I suspect led to this type of fracture as it grew-accumulated over the years.



Was able to source a new/old tank and lid which is from an even older 1955 toilet. The valve assembly is brass. The shop had these in their back lot baking away all these years so getting the hardware out has not been easy. The flush valve lock nut is quite stuck and to make it worse was installed upside down. I've sprayed Liquid Wrench into this and it still resists. I've already had the two big Channel locks on both the threads and lock nut. Any tips to get this off?

 

[PassnThru]

Liquid wrench is for rust. You aren't dealing with rust on brass
You need to go with CLR or the equivalent. You need to dissolve the deposits that are locking it in place.

 

[Kuma601]

The Liquid Wrench was handy...I'll get some CLR for this. Thanks.

 

[Miss the Pontiacs]

If there are more at the shop why not try a different one?

 

[johninct]

If I remember correctly, the nut on my flush handle is a backward thread one

 

[rlitman]

If I remember correctly, the nut on my flush handle is a backward thread one

We can clearly see the thread in this picture, and it is not left handed.

If it were me, I'd toss that lever and use something with plastic threads.

 

[KenC]

I'd soak it in white vinegar for several hours.

 

[LOW1]

I second the vinegar idea. Don’t be afraid to let it soak for a full day or so

 

[nadogail]

Tank Lever threads are typically Left Handed. The tighter you turn a Left Handed thread, the looser it gets.

 

[Larrywv]

That nut is on the flush valve, not the flush handle.

 

[The Cobbler]

the rubber gasket is probably stuck to the nut

 

[tipsy]

Sawzall. If you aim to replace it anyway, no reason to struggle with trying to remove the nut. Just start cutting it.

 

[nadogail]

I remove stuck faucets from countertops with my vibrating multi tool, i am sure one can remove your flush valve assembly from your replacement tank.

I buy only Fluid Master fill and flush valves.

 

[yatg]

Sawzall.

That's a bad idea. Vibration + Vintage Ceramic.

If you want to cut it out, use a metal cutting recip blade in a handle.

Example:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B098CDK6VK/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Kuma601]

Thanks!

Decided to use the Dremel to cut sections out of that lock nut then wedge a flat blade screwdriver to split it apart. At that point I realized the lock nut was aluminum. The aluminum corrosion had welded it to the brass along with hard plumbers putty that was like glue now. Took two more cuts to finally have it let go.

The other toilet I didn't want it to fracture in the same spot so went to clean the flush lever opening on that one too. That was an all zinc coated assembly from the 70's and it had welded itself together. Went to loosen it and the casing where the nut secures it to the tank broke off. (Yes, reverse threads.) More cursing because the goal was to reuse but it wasn't usable now. Cut the lever arm off and gently tried to remove that assembly. It was equally stuck with similar hard water deposits filling that square opening completely. The zinc coated aluminum housings are fairly soft and with this age brittle. A good squeeze with the tongue-groove pliers it shattered into low orbit pieces. (Always wear safety glasses.) Following that it was easy. Installed a plastic threaded lever.

Still need to get fresh gaskets for flush valve then it can be installed. The tank to bowl gasket on hand did not have the relief for the lock nut so it sets the tank about 3/8" above the bowl mounts. Always something to slow it down and make multiple trips to the home store for parts.

 

[driftpin]

Your time with the mechanism is nothing I'd bother with, a new set of Fluidmaster guts would be much-easier to service in the future, and will probably work better over time.

I've done the original refurbishment before, but once I started using the Fluidmaster pieces, I never went backwards.

I once went to an estate sale in Palm Beach down the street from Mar a Lago, the building was being demolished. It was owned by the Sanford family, they of the Sanforizing process, ask your wife. My roommate was an architect and FL general contractor, his main clients were wealthy property owners in Coconut Grove (Miami) FL. He bought every toilet in the building, and the old-fashioned ceramic and cast-iron gas stove in the kitchen for his Coconut Grove clients. They were overhead tank toilets, w/a pull-chain, and a large dia pipe from the tank to the commode. Now, those were worth saving.

 

[Kuma601]

Agreed, I'm not going to re-install this piece. The Fluidmaster parts work so well that messing with this type of flush valve would be a backwards step.

During the hunt for a replacement tank and lid, I was amazed at the prices for varying vintage parts. The tank that was bought the same ones from online places priced them at $200+ with the lid at $85+. Could buy a decent Toto or Kohler for that $. Ours is a 1967 tract build so no real style to maintain. Was strongly considering a Toto but figured if the toilet is replaced it starts a treadmill of bathroom changes that are going to be $$$. It doesn't stop there either. LOL

Reminded me when we cleaned out the aunt's 1907 built house following her passing. Those toilets, claw foot tubs and sinks were nice pieces but in dire need of cleaning if they could be cleaned sufficiently. They were not good matches for our house so we left them. Nor was any of us willing to lift those claw foot tubs.

 

[Wrench97]

The handle nuts are left hand thread, don't ask how I know that......................