Tonka Truck Resto - Paint Advice Needed

[Mziggy16]

Hey All -

Last winter I restored my childhood Tonka Front Loader (images attached) to pass along to my son for his first birthday. I have three more Tonka vehicles ready for restoration this Fall/Winter (Crane, Backhoe, Cement Truck).

Last time around I rattle canned the paint. It's held up well but wears faster than I'd like and the areas that get a lot of action (bottom of scoop, metal-on-metal joints, etc.) show significant wear or chipping. It's just not quite the quality of the finish when it was new.

I'd like to go a notch up on the paint job this time around and am seeking advice. I've considered Powder Coating and HVLP. I'm leaning towards HVLP right now for the cost (Harbor Freight gun + Paint) and relative ease. I do not have any equipment for either approach, so I'll be buying and/or borrowing to complete the project.

Please let me know opinions on both the method (Powder coat, HVLP, other) and any specific thoughts on where to source materials that are of an appropriate quality/price for a Tonka truck - for example, what kind of paint would I want to use to best replicate the durable factory finish of an original Tonka truck?

Thank you!

-Mike

 

[FJ 432]

If you go HVLP I would suggest going to a Sherwin Williams store.

The sell a great enamel paint by the quart (around $20) and they can match anything. It's called All Surface Enamel Oil Based.

 

[kkroger]

I would have powder coated it, Growing up I had Tonka trucks with 4 different yellows from an ORANGE look (like CASE equipment) to CAT Yellow to a pale yellow and even WHITE... I can get CAT Yellow powder....

 

[Stuart in MN]

If your son plays with them, I suspect that any finish you apply is going to get beat up eventually...

Personally, I'd stick with spray cans and just assume they're going to need another paint job in the future. It will be easier and certainly cheaper to sand out the scratches and chips and put on a fresh coat of spray paint than if they get powder coated or painted with premium paint.

It's great you're letting your son have fun with them. That's what toys are for, rather than just sitting on the shelf for display.

 

[stercorarius]

Powder coating would be best. You can get results equal to hvlp with a rattle can. Go to your local equipment dealer and pickup up a can of implement spray paint in whatever construction yellow they have. It holds up a little better than the regular rattle cans. I prefer the Case paint, but that's just me.

Sent from my S60 using Tapatalk

 

[Texsun]

Here's the color Ford used to do their tribute trucks to Tonka.

http://gtcarlot.com/paint-codes/Ford/M7109/

 

[Mziggy16]

Powder coating would be best. You can get results equal to hvlp with a rattle can. Go to your local equipment dealer and pickup up a can of implement spray paint in whatever construction yellow they have. It holds up a little better than the regular rattle cans. I prefer the Case paint, but that's just me.

Sent from my S60 using Tapatalk

For those recommending Powder Coating - can you give me some thoughts on a novice doing this? Also, will the HF Powder Coating Kit get the job done to a decent quality or should I look elsewhere?

Thanks for the feedback so far!

 

[555]

http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2012/11/welcome-to-powder-coating-complete-guide.html#.Wfv_PuNFyCW

I have a Harbor Freight system. I've only used it for small parts, all in one color (usually black). It works fine for my small projects and I've had it about 10 years. I use a toaster oven to bake the powder.
I attached the guide above to give you some insight on powder coating.

 

[ovrrdrive]

Definitely powder. Blast it, degrease, outgas and then powdercoat it. It will dent and it will scratch but it will be on there until he gets tired of playing with it. Having a powdercoating gun is handy to have anyway. I'd recommend at a minimum the Eastwood DV.

 

[pepi]

Not so sure power coating is the way to go, to thick will cover & hide details. The question is how will you retain the graphics.

It is all in the prep, plain old Rust-Oleum enamel can be used, multi light coats. It will last a long time.

Have a problem using a rattle can, buy it in a can, dilute with mineral sprits and air brush the toy.

Using an HVLP ? depends on the size of the toy, has a feel of over kill.

Powder coating CHIPS, not possible to do a spot touch up. Have had power coating applied to suspension parts.

Not impressed at all, it takes a rock hit, power blows out and leaves a fugly ding. Try and paint to cover, then it looks like a teenager with a pimply face.

Car frames are power coated, why cause they look good? That's the intended belief. Truth a fast way to cover and hide the imperfections of the metal work. And power coating does that well because it is thick, again covering details

Another unspoken truth assembling the parts. Not going to just go back together without refitting. That means sanding or scrapping some power. May I also be so bold as to add, without chipping the powder. There is ZERO flex to it, where as paint is more forgiving.

Good luck on your toy restore, a nice CAT yellow will make it pop.

Greg

 

[kythri]

Not so sure power coating is the way to go, to thick will cover & hide details. The question is how will you retain the graphics.

It is all in the prep, plain old Rust-Oleum enamel can be used, multi light coats. It will last a long time.

Have a problem using a rattle can, buy it in a can, dilute with mineral sprits and air brush the toy.

Using an HVLP ? depends on the size of the toy, has a feel of over kill.

Powder coating CHIPS, not possible to do a spot touch up. Have had power coating applied to suspension parts.

Not impressed at all, it takes a rock hit, power blows out and leaves a fugly ding. Try and paint to cover, then it looks like a teenager with a pimply face.

Car frames are power coated, why cause they look good? That's the intended belief. Truth a fast way to cover and hide the imperfections of the metal work. And power coating does that well because it is thick, again covering details

Another unspoken truth assembling the parts. Not going to just go back together without refitting. That means sanding or scrapping some power. May I also be so bold as to add, without chipping the powder. There is ZERO flex to it, where as paint is more forgiving.

Good luck on your toy restore, a nice CAT yellow will make it pop.

Greg

I've had a TON of stuff powder coated, and I've had ZERO of these issues.

It's not nearly as thick as you describe, it's NOT easy to chip, and I've never had to do any kind of sanding/scraping to fit stuff back together.

I'm not advocating for powder coating in this particular example - I think, after sanding/blasting the stuff bare, a decent self-etching primer and some engine enamel would more than solve the issues the OP has, but your caveats about powder coating are just not valid, in my experience.

 

[CJM8515]

Problem with powder coating is you gotta take it apart 100%. There is no taping it off too much as when you bake it, anything that might melt cant be on there.

 

[Motorman55]

This is a toy truck.

Just use a rattle can and multiple cuts as needed. Let the kid beat the **** out of it and it'll get the same patina that the original paint had after a couple years of play.

If its collectability your looking for then original paint toys hold the most value.

 

[Mziggy16]

Problem with powder coating is you gotta take it apart 100%. There is no taping it off too much as when you bake it, anything that might melt cant be on there.

It has to come apart 100% anyway to blast the rust off all the little nooks.

It'll get a new sticker set, new rivets and top hat nuts when it's all painted. I might give the powder coat route a shot. Looks like I can get a used gun system and toaster oven for ~$100. And I bet I can find a few more things to powder coat

 

[thejunkmanadv]

I did a restoration about a year ago on a couple of Tonka Mighty Dumps and I have a Forklift slated for a future little restoration.

These are toys that I intended for my son to play with and ding up. Here is a link to my blog post about my restoration with pictures and videos on what I did and didn't do.

Tonka Mighty Dump restoration

I also made a replica box for a restoration for my nephew

 

[sqaurelizard]

that turned out really nice

 

[JohnDeere1]

You did an awesome job already even got the remade stickers just go to tractor supply or oreschelens or whatever its called and get tractor paint in a spray can its very strong i painted a pedal tractor 7 years ago and it still looks great even being left outside in the weather all these years on a porch i did 4 heavy coats if i remember its much better than rustoleum or any other spray paint

 

[thejunkmanadv]

Van Sickle is the paint you are talking about.

 

[30cal]

Interesting site for Tonka restorations..http://www.mightytonka.com/links_mt.html

Original is always better though, I think. I thought about restoring my own 1964 dump truck and Mighty Crane. No. All those scratches are mine..I hauled some loads back in the day..

6 years old, but I was east bound and down, loaded up and truckin'.

 

[Tduby]

Talk about nostalgia I remember the Tonka toys my dad refurbished for me I wish I stil had them but crack heads looking for scrap stole them from the beach at our camp =(

 

[Mziggy16]

I did a restoration about a year ago on a couple of Tonka Mighty Dumps and I have a Forklift slated for a future little restoration.

These are toys that I intended for my son to play with and ding up. Here is a link to my blog post about my restoration with pictures and videos on what I did and didn't do.

Tonka Mighty Dump restoration

I also made a replica box for a restoration for my nephew

Thanks Junkman!

This is very helpful and some great tips - I especially like the idea of painting the windshield black. I bought the replica last time and that will save a few bucks.