Tool abuser fix 3/4" drive?

[ssentt]

I have a son who is a tool abuser. My 1/2in C-man and gearwrench ratchets and breaker bars keep getting broke. I'm thinking about getting a 3/4" drive ratchet or breaker bar with a snapon GLAS1E adaptor to use with my 1/2in impacts to prevent further abuse/breakage. I figure my harbour frieght impacts will be the next victims in this ugly chain of abuse. I've never broke any impacts before and tool warranty replacements at local harbour frieght have never been a problem.


Has anyone went this route to lesson damage/breakage. To me this makes sense....bigger = stronger. Any feedback would be much appreciated.

 

[#1SomeGuy]

Make your son buy his own tools to ruin? :shrug:

 

[blackz26]

Fix buy him his own lifetime warranty tools. He breaks it, he remedies the warranty. Whether its him paying you gas to go sears or harbor freight or other. At the same time Id cut the chord on the similar tools you bought them that you have. Gotta start some where. Also if he looses hit let him foot the bill. Eventually replacing a $5 socket in a $125 tool set gets redundant. May i ask hold old said son is?

As far as 3/4- over doing it imo for the average person unless you work on a farm. But 3/4 also limits where you can use it, amd can be overkill for a lot of jobs.

How does he break them? Cheater pipes? Maybe supervise when he uses the tools amd suggest a better less abusive way to get the job done. Which could also lead to efficiency.

Sorry if i overstepped or misspoke

 

[Bikes&Bowties]

I use cheaters, hammers, body weight. whatever it takes. And ive only broke 2 ratchets ever... is there a quality issue that needs to be addressed? I use matco 88's on my most used longest ratchets with zero problems. I work on John Deere diesel so they do see stubborn nuts. I usually use an adapter from 1/2 to 3/4 to use my 25" 1/2 ratchet with my bigger 3/4 sockets...

 

[ssentt]

Alls fine, no overstep. He will be 24 in June. He has replaced most things most of the time. Gearwrench replacement is harder to do. I contact them thru the web sight...wait for the return then send photos if its a broke breaker bar or socket, ratchets I have gotten a repair kit before. My local Ace store scrutinizes every sears tool I bring back for warranty even though they sell them. Closest Sears store is 30 miles away. Its just getting old. I have tools in my box that MY father gave me and he's been warned not to use them. They are GOLD to me and **** is gonna hit the fan if they get broke. This old man isn't too old to beat his *** yet!

Yeah, cheater pipes sometimes too. Breaking same ratchets a 2 or 3 times is redundant and its ******* me off. Standard sockets split sometimes, my older sears sockets seems to hold up better. I've made him the use the impacts sockets to break nuts loose. He's gotten better about not breaking my tools but it still happens. Sometimes its his fault sometimes not. Sometimes I break things too. Just trying to find a solution.

 

[kunkernator]

Going bigger on drive size does not seem to be the right option, because obviously the problem is user error. It is RARE to break a chrome socket, even with a cheater pipe. Something seems to be wrong....

What kind of work is he performing? What drive size is he breaking most often (if he is using a cheater bar on something 1/4" drive, theres your problem)?

And just FYI, Gearwrench stuff is warrantable thru Sears (my NAPA also took them in CT), so you do not nessecarily need to send it in.

 

[ssentt]

I use cheaters, hammers, body weight. whatever it takes. And ive only broke 2 ratchets ever... is there a quality issue that needs to be addressed? I use matco 88's on my most used longest ratchets with zero problems. I work on John Deere diesel so they do see stubborn nuts. I usually use an adapter from 1/2 to 3/4 to use my 25" 1/2 ratchet with my bigger 3/4 sockets...

I think it is a quality thing with sears tools today. My older sockets seem to take the abuse better. Of all the sockets that have split it has been newer ones. I've been thinking about the snapon ratchets or matcos. Just have been too cheap to spring the xtra cash.

 

[diesel research]

i believe the glas1e is stamped "not for impact use" and may not carry an official factory warranty?

3/4 ratchet ***** for a lot of applications.

 

[bmxr4life87]

Advance auto has a grear attitude around here with gearwrench warranty

 

[ssentt]

Going bigger on drive size does not seem to be the right option, because obviously the problem is user error. It is RARE to break a chrome socket, even with a cheater pipe. Something seems to be wrong....

What kind of work is he performing? What drive size is he breaking most often (if he is using a cheater bar on something 1/4" drive, theres your problem)?

And just FYI, Gearwrench stuff is warrantable thru Sears (my NAPA also took them in CT), so you do not nessecarily need to send it in.

I/we have split quite a few chrome sears sockets....mostly all newer stuff (2-3yrs old). Gearwrench sockets seem better than newer sears. My old sears sockets are tougher for sure. The C-man ratchets and sockets have all been 1/2" Most work seems to be front end work and suspension work that tears our **** up. I'm in the rust belt here and they/county like to dump on the salt. Lots of corrosion under the truck. Selection at the nearest sears is pretty limited on any brands other than the C-man line. The carry common gear wrench ratcheting wrenches and not much else.

 

[ssentt]

The snapon glas1e is rated for 450ftlbs I think. I have twisted several adator heads/male ends off in the sears chromies and a couple allen impacts in yrs of DIY wrenching. I figure the snapon glas1e would hold up.

 

[60766244]

Far as I'd figured it, you use breaker bars to crack tight nuts, and use a ratchet for light duties. Tell him to use the tools correctly. Doesn't matter if you're using 1/2" or 1 1/2" sets, use the right tool for the job and all should be well. Impact sockets are the only things to be used on an impact gun etc. Proper tool care is what's needed more than new toys.

 

[dirtmister16]

its a user error from sounds of things. remember the key to remove fastners is proper tool and useage.

apply the right tool and some penetrating oil and heat(where needed). ive seen alot of stuff broken from poor application and useage/operator error. not saying it can all be avoided, but alot can.

 

[TheGrooveking]

I hate to throw this out there as that I'm sure you've gone over this with your son "righty tighty, lefty loosey" I know my brother's son has ADD and will mix stuff up. Breaking 1/2" drive ratchets as often as you've listed either your son is working on stuff that should have 3/4" drive or stuff in the frozen artic or 50 year old salt water marine, just guessing but I've been turning half inch ratchets for more than 40 years and have never broken one and that includes hitting them with 5 pound dead blow hammers and standing in them. I seriously recommend getting him Harbor Freight 1/2" breaker bar and some Kroil.

I fully understand him having his own tools, I started buying my own tools when I was 10 using my paper route money and going to Ace hardware to buy SK. When it came to tools my father was somewhat cheap but did have Indestro, Williams and some Craftsman. I now have my father's tools and would be very upset if those were broken.

TheGrooveking

 

[cookefab]

The adapter the OP spec'ed IS warrantiable thru SO as long as it is NOT used w/ an impact...that said, it is a 2 piece design, w/ the 1/2" shank pressing into the 3/4 drive "socket"... The design ain't the greatest, as the shank retention will fail first....

Ask me how I know.... (sarcn)

 

[Hiball]

The Only Issue i can see from Upsizing to 3/4" drive is that you run the Risk of breaking Fasteners versus tools. I'm not sure what he is working on, But there is Definitely a Learning curve on when to stop with the Leverage and utilize Heat/Penetrates etc. Ive been down that Curvy road and have became well versed in Drilling/Extractors and On Occasion ill sill end up in the Ditch.

 

[scouting]

At 24 he should either have his own tools, or refer him to grooveking's advice.
My question is, how does he break 1/2" ratchets and sockets that often? I'm not above using cheater pipes, but that's incredible. Normally bolts will break before tools, maybe it is time to reevaluate purchasing a 3/4 set. I see he understands about warranting the tools, but the breakage has me confused. My off-road tools are no-name Chinese, and a 4" pipe didn't kill the ratchet. Sheared the bolt, but I'm wondering if this isn't a problem of improperly sized drives. If actual abuse won't kill a crappy ratchet, I'm thinking a halfway decent ratchet shouldn't give up the ghost that quick. Once you get to fasteners big enough to snap 1/2 drive, it may be time to step up to something bigger.

 

[BK13]

I guess I kinda understand your son's situation... I wasted a couple of Craftsman 1/2" ratchets when in my early twenties (and without using a cheater, either!). I ended up buying a CM 18", and then a Snap On 24 breaker bar. I am impressed by people who can break sockets with hand tools... I'm a pretty big and strong guy, and I've not done it yet.

I think I might try some different brands... Maybe Kobalt if there's one nearby, or SK or Armstrong...

 

[ssentt]

Most recent as of yesterday was c-man 1/2" flexhead that skipped/jumped a couple teeth loosening lugnuts torqued to 120ftlbs. Prior to that it was 2 c-mans strandard ratchets on ball joint clamp/press with cheater bar. I believe the one before that was axle bump stops with the flexhead c-man. I can't remember what he broke the gearwrench ratchet on. He has been demoted to c-man ratchets only because what used to be the ease of replacement. Now when I take a ratchet to local Ace who sells them, they will look up and down the handle looking for marks of a cheater bar. If I take a chrome socket to them and it has split they try to say that was used with an impact. Impacts break'em into a couple pieces usually. Forgot to mention twisted swivel off the end of two breaker bars over the yrs. What I really think is the c-man rachets and socket are not as durable/tough as the stuff made 10 or 20 yrs ago. I have some c-man standard length 3/8 and 1/2 ratchets from late 70's and early 80's that have taken some real abuse over the years and never broke. Those came from My father and have been swapped out of the toolchest for newer.

Of coarse my son and I have been asked repeatedly at the Ace store staff if we work as mechanics. My household has 4 drivers and 5 vehicles plus my son brings his 2 trucks and a (mustang....that is in my garage/shop) to our place for repairs. Yes we use kroil or pb or homemade brew wicking those into threads with heat. Impact gun is used most of the time if possible. Son and I have drilled out many bolts over the yrs.

I guess its time to get matco or snappy ratchets ratchets. My kid....well I've slapped the ADD out of him ( just kidding ) he knows righty tighty lefty loosey. He's a tech at local dealership and does bring his own snappy ratchet over sometimes. But just like yesterday c-man jumped a couple teeth just loosening lugnuts. I know you guys mean well and my son has become less of a toolabuser than he use to be. Work smarter....not harder is what he has been taught by me. Sometimes a big hammer or cheaterbar is what the job calls for. Just thought maybe 3/4" breaker bar with adaptor would be cheaper than a couple $100 used pro ratchets.

 

[blackz26]

Most recent as of yesterday was c-man 1/2" flexhead that skipped/jumped a couple teeth loosening lugnuts torqued to 120ftlbs. Prior to that it was 2 c-mans strandard ratchets on ball joint clamp/press with cheater bar. I believe the one before that was axle bump stops with the flexhead c-man. I can't remember what he broke the gearwrench ratchet on. He has been demoted to c-man ratchets only because what used to be the ease of replacement. Now when I take a ratchet to local Ace who sells them, they will look up and down the handle looking for marks of a cheater bar. If I take a chrome socket to them and it has split they try to say that was used with an impact. Impacts break'em into a couple pieces usually. Forgot to mention twisted swivel off the end of two breaker bars over the yrs. What I really think is the c-man rachets and socket are not as durable/tough as the stuff made 10 or 20 yrs ago. I have some c-man standard length 3/8 and 1/2 ratchets from late 70's and early 80's that have taken some real abuse over the years and never broke. Those came from My father and have been swapped out of the toolchest for newer.

Of coarse my son and I have been asked repeatedly at the Ace store staff if we work as mechanics. My household has 4 drivers and 5 vehicles plus my son brings his 2 trucks and a (mustang....that is in my garage/shop) to our place for repairs. Yes we use kroil or pb or homemade brew wicking those into threads with heat. Impact gun is used most of the time if possible. Son and I have drilled out many bolts over the yrs.

I guess its time to get matco or snappy ratchets ratchets. My kid....well I've slapped the ADD out of him ( just kidding ) he knows righty tighty lefty loosey. He's a tech at local dealership and does bring his own snappy ratchet over sometimes. But just like yesterday c-man jumped a couple teeth just loosening lugnuts. I know you guys mean well and my son has become less of a toolabuser than he use to be. Work smarter....not harder is what he has been taught by me. Sometimes a big hammer or cheaterbar is what the job calls for. Just thought maybe 3/4" breaker bar with adaptor would be cheaper than a couple $100 used pro ratchets.

So, he is a tech, with snap on ratchets, And this still happens? What were the lugnuts on that the ratchet broke on? Why wasn't a breaker bar used? At this point Id simply tell him, "you want to work on your stuff here, bring your own tools to break". There's no sence in this going on if he is a tech with his own truck tools. Maybe I'm just crazy...

 

[BK13]

Well, I guess what I will personally take from this thread is, thank God Oregon doesn't salt the roads!

Maybe 3/4" stuff is the way to go... But I sure wouldn't be using a ratchet to remove tires if I had an impact...

 

[pilotman81]

I would say make him replace the stuff himself or banish him from your box. I've had to do this to my dad, several friends, and co-workers who abused my stuff.

 

[transittech]

This is just my Opinion...

I think you have some poor quality tools. There's a really good reason why full time techs use tools that cost 10 times what Crapsman does...

Ask you son about what he's breaking at work. If he's not really breaking anything, it could very well be your tools.

Also, maybe consider buying some SK ratchets or tool truck tools from Pawn shops, Ebay, whatever. It sounds like you have quite a few problems with Craftsman ratchets; we all know they aren't what they used to be.

 

[ssentt]

He told me yesterday he has broken a used snappy ratchet he bought from the SO truck and a 24" snapon breaker bar at work too. He gets the share of diesels that come and he's the only one there that does the 12v cummins. A good share of these are farm trucks....a little more dirty a little more rusty.

Lugnuts where on his mustang and torque to 120lbs. I've been firm believer in torque wrenching lugnuts as not to stretch studs and I know thats what they had been torqued to recently. I set the torque wrench when he put the wheels back on it a couple weeks ago.

He has started bringing his own ratchets, cause he's tired of listening to me ***** about it AND busting his knuckles at the same time. Its hard...not to lecture your kids even if they are an adult.

 

[diesel research]

he might be teaching you a lesson in tool quality

 

[blackz26]

This is just my Opinion...

I think you have some poor quality tools. There's a really good reason why full time techs use tools that cost 10 times what Crapsman does...

Ask you son about what he's breaking at work. If he's not really breaking anything, it could very well be your tools.

Also, maybe consider buying some SK ratchets or tool truck tools from Pawn shops, Ebay, whatever. It sounds like you have quite a few problems with Craftsman ratchets; we all know they aren't what they used to be.

The OP doesn't have the problem with his Craftsman tools. His son does. Take your craps man stuff somewhere else. This is supposed to be a forum to help members, not bash them for the tool brand the prefer and use. If you have read, the OP has ratchets HIS dad has from the 70s or so, and they're just fine. Its not the tools, its the user it seems.

 

[ssentt]

he might be teaching you a lesson in tool quality

There's my sign right. LOL

The c-man ratchets are the main problem I think. Time to get something better. C-man SHOULD be fine for home garage DIY stuff. I have picked up a couple kobalt ratchets recently. Their life expectancy is yet to be determined.

 

[Kev442]

I have a hard time wrapping my head around the idea of using a 1/2" ratchet when there is a 24" breaker bar right there. I will also agree that a 1/2" modern Cman ratchet is going to break/slip doing these things. I gave up on them as slipping teeth is no fun to the hands.
However, I also read between the lines that your son used an impact on his Mustang lugs and didn't quit until 120 lbs. Makes them hard to get back off. Seems he has a lot that his old man needs to teach him yet.

 

[Haukur]

FWIW, the only chrome sockets I've split have been cheap no-name sockets that always have flaking chrome. If the socket has not been abused with an impact or hammered on a rounded or rusted fastener of the next size up, then I'd expect the fastener or drive square to break first.

The way Craftsman has been going recently, then I'm sure they are just having the chinese factory that makes the no-name sockets stamp their batch with the Craftsman logo.

 

[ssentt]

The OP doesn't have the problem with his Craftsman tools. His son does. Take your craps man stuff somewhere else. This is supposed to be a forum to help members, not bash them for the tool brand the prefer and use. If you have read, the OP has ratchets HIS dad has from the 70s or so, and they're just fine. Its not the tools, its the user it seems.

I have always had c-man tools and they have been great. It's just till recently I've had the rachets fail. C-man sockets have held up great too unless a cheaterbar was used or impact gun on nonimpact socket.

I'm a strong beleiver in...work smarter not harder...and I tell him so. Thats how he's gonna make more money at the flatrate dealership. At work he says they call him Thor because he's always getting the big hammer and torch out.

Just liking all the feedback here and different thinking angles. All response are welcome and no offence has been taken. Its all good!

 

[diesel research]

The OP doesn't have the problem with his Craftsman tools.

intentional poor reading comprehension.

he has old and new(er). he notices the newer breaks easier and has himself experienced it.

I/we have split quite a few chrome sears sockets....mostly all newer stuff (2-3yrs old).

I think it is a quality thing with sears tools today. My older sockets seem to take the abuse better. Of all the sockets that have split it has been newer ones.

What I really think is the c-man rachets and socket are not as durable/tough as the stuff made 10 or 20 yrs ago. I have some c-man standard length 3/8 and 1/2 ratchets from late 70's and early 80's that have taken some real abuse over the years and never broke. Those came from My father and have been swapped out of the toolchest for newer.

this breaker here is one of the toughest i own
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...eaker-bar/_/N-2637?itemIdentifier=914046_0_0_

surpasses the cman by a mile, surpasses the snap on, flexes less than the HF.

i moved to using impact sockets with hand tools, unless they absolutely wont fit. chrome became a specialty item for low clearance only. failure rate dropped to zero, and often even able to drop down a drive size. of course the salty scaly rust undercarriage of a freightliner or other class8 HD truck/trailer might not be as HD as car lugnuts.

the use of air tools has spared most ratchet "abuse" and made ratchets somewhat of a specialty item, but the armstrong maxx locking flex serve their daily purpose. http://store.harryepstein.com/search?q=armstrong+flex

 

[ssentt]

I have a hard time wrapping my head around the idea of using a 1/2" ratchet when there is a 24" breaker bar right there. I will also agree that a 1/2" modern Cman ratchet is going to break/slip doing these things. I gave up on them as slipping teeth is no fun to the hands.
However, I also read between the lines that your son used an impact on his Mustang lugs and didn't quit until 120 lbs. Makes them hard to get back off. Seems he has a lot that his old man needs to teach him yet.

Impacts have been used on lugnuts with 100lb torque sticks and then topped off with snapon torque wrench set to 120lbs but not this time. Last time wheels went back on he had used the c-man flexhead to tighten and then I handed him the snapon torque wrench set to 120lbs. My eye sight is not what it use to be and I tell him to check it to make sure its set right. He looked I was standing right there. My air tools are usually in the heated garage and the shop (30X48) is unheated so hand tools see a lot of use.

 

[ssentt]

I've gotta 1/2in 24" powerbuilt breakerbar that came from carquest that has been gettin a lotta use. So far its held up. Also have a couple shorter bars c-man and gearwrench. Given time the my son....AKA toolabuser will probably break that too. LOL

I/we have been using impact sockets with the hand tools for the tough stuff too.

My local Ace store hates to se me come tru the door. They have told me I bring in more c-man warranty replacements than anybody they can think of.

 

[Kev442]

I guess I'm missing something. Lugs almost never exceed 100 lbs. Most cars want 75-90. Does he have aftermarket racing rims using special 9/16ths lugs or something?