Tool advice and questions

[Project_shadow]

I haven't seen a thread on anything like this, it's pretty much just to ask everyone's advice and ask questions about the tool itself, not necessarily prices, but on how people would rate the tool and wether or not the tool will hold up to its use

My question is on a lisle brake caliper hand press tool, I'm tired of using a c-clamp and fighting that, I want to know if this tool is gonna be worth the purchase, is it going to be easier than a c-clamp to use? Does it work on very rusted calipers or would I be better off using a clamp?
Also I have been picking up a few side jobs and I'm curious on what other tools to use for ball joints, I have the hf press kit, just looking for something to make the jobs easier

 

[jd_1138]

The OTC and ATD ball joint kits are good and not much more pricey than the HF kit. I'd generally stay away from HF stuff. I mean, some of their stuff is OK, but usually for just 20% or so more you can find a better option.

 

[WhiffySpark]

If they don't compress easily with a c clamp they need to be replaced

 

[grumpychevy]

Are you referring to the Lisle speedy pad spreader? If so, I highly recommend one but get the one for dual piston calipers. I have the Matco version dual piston and I use it on single piston calipers also. It's not necessarily the right tool for single piston applications but it has never failed me before. I'm a tool guy and don't need much of an excuse to buy a new tool so buying a single piston version is not out of the question in the future, just know that they take a fairly deep toolbox drawer to store so having 2 of them would consume some valuable drawer space hence the dual piston version to do both types.
Also pick yourself up a quality puller set and a pickle fork set, preferably one that you can chuck in an air hammer if you plan on doing front end work. And don't forget the "Big Freakin Hammer".

 

[mcmtech]

For a brake caliper tool, check out the Lang tools #279. It's also rebranded by blue point and napa. It works awesome. If you want to spend some money, the snap on ball joint kit is the best and easiest to use as the adapters snap together.

 

[6PTsocket]

A C clamp workd so well. Why is everybody looking to complicate things? There doesn't have to be a dedicated tool for everything.

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[DHCrocks]

If you have an opposing piston caliper this tool is very handy.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-29100-Quick-Quad-Spreader/dp/B005GLQCKA/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1494038474&sr=8-10&keywords=brake+pad+spreader+tool

it makes pushing out all 4 pistons at the same time a breeze.

 

[bsg1]

C-clamp has been my tool of choice.

 

[finn]

If they don't compress easily with a c clamp they need to be replaced

This.

 

[Project_shadow]

Are you referring to the Lisle speedy pad spreader? If so, I highly recommend one but get the one for dual piston calipers. I have the Matco version dual piston and I use it on single piston calipers also. It's not necessarily the right tool for single piston applications but it has never failed me before. I'm a tool guy and don't need much of an excuse to buy a new tool so buying a single piston version is not out of the question in the future, just know that they take a fairly deep toolbox drawer to store so having 2 of them would consume some valuable drawer space hence the dual piston version to do both types.
Also pick yourself up a quality puller set and a pickle fork set, preferably one that you can chuck in an air hammer if you plan on doing front end work. And don't forget the "Big Freakin Hammer".

The tool truck thread says they are the same, and yes the dual piston is the one I would be getting, I just hate using the c-clamp due to its awkwardness and trying to hold it still, not necessarily needed but I'd rather work a little less when I do things, I'll be looking into one

 

[Project_shadow]

For a brake caliper tool, check out the Lang tools #279. It's also rebranded by blue point and napa. It works awesome. If you want to spend some money, the snap on ball joint kit is the best and easiest to use as the adapters snap together.

I'm trying to keep my tool truck payments down lol

 

[Project_shadow]

A C clamp workd so well. Why is everybody looking to complicate things? There doesn't have to be a dedicated tool for everything.

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Because if it saves me time and it simplifies the process it's worth it, I usually just make tools but I figured since I had the income I would save my time

 

[gdocktor3]

All I know is the first time I used this pos the bolt portion cross threaded and I was never able to use it again. I finished that job and every other brake job since then with c clamps and will never use anything but. I really hate to say this, but all Lisle tools just plain ****.

 

[Project_shadow]

All I know is the first time I used this pos the bolt portion cross threaded and I was never able to use it again. I finished that job and every other brake job since then with c clamps and will never use anything but. I really hate to say this, but all Lisle tools just plain ****.

Use lisle filter wrenches at work on semis, never had a problem, a lot of people use them and don't hear much complaint unless it is abused

 

[mrjaw14]

Lisle spill-free funnel is awesome!

As to brakes, I have a kit from Astro pneumatic. I used c-clamps for a while and its fine until you get a caliper it doesn't fit well on and the piston gets uneven pressure and binds. Since then I use a "specialty tool" and get even pressure every time. If memory serves the caliper I have an issue on had the brake hose banjo bolt on the back side of the caliper and I was trying to not damage that

 

[bdelmar2]

C clamp works fine when you have to use one.

Usually you can just pry the caliper open with a largish straight screwdriver before taking it apart and not mess with clamps at all.

The exception to this is when the parking brake is built into the caliper - mostly European cars, but I imagine it will become more common over time.

For those you are supposed to have a special set of tools to both compress and turn at the same time. Expensive.

They also sell a generic small block with a variety of ears on it you can turn with a rachet that will work sometimes.

You can also use just a c clamp if you are careful and make sure you have the pivoting pad toward the piston and make sure it turns as you compress.

I do have an actual pad spreader somewhere, but I really never use it, more hassle going over to my tool box, getting it out, taking it to the car, and putting it back away again after the job is done than its worth.

I keep a largish screwdriver and a couple c clamps on my roll around already.

Edit: The spill free funnel is handy I agree, works well on vehicles where the bleeder is above the filler.

 

[6PTsocket]

C clamp works fine when you have to use one.

Usually you can just pry the caliper open with a largish straight screwdriver before taking it apart and not mess with clamps at all.

The exception to this is when the parking brake is built into the caliper - mostly European cars, but I imagine it will become more common over time.

For those you are supposed to have a special set of tools to both compress and turn at the same time. Expensive.

They also sell a generic small block with a variety of ears on it you can turn with a rachet that will work sometimes.

You can also use just a c clamp if you are careful and make sure you have the pivoting pad toward the piston and make sure it turns as you compress.

I do have an actual pad spreader somewhere, but I really never use it, more hassle going over to my tool box, getting it out, taking it to the car, and putting it back away again after the job is done than its worth.

I keep a largish screwdriver and a couple c clamps on my roll around already.

Edit: The spill free funnel is handy I agree, works well on vehicles where the bleeder is above the filler.

I have one of those rotating piston pusher sets from HF. It was like 29 bucks. There are a lot of them out there for cheap and they all look very similar. I don't see it as high stress item, requiring super quality. If the piston does not want to go back, you have a more serious problem, like a siezed, rusted in the bore piston.

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[Cope]

I have one of those rotating piston pusher sets from HF. It was like 29 bucks. There are a lot of them out there for cheap and they all look very similar. I don't see it as high stress item, requiring super quality. If the piston does not want to go back, you have a more serious problem, like a siezed, rusted in the bore piston.

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HF has switched to an over-priced kit. I bought this one on eBay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/21-pcs-Univ...ol-Kit-/262783011539?var=&hash=item3d2f168ad3

 

[WhiffySpark]

Because if it saves me time and it simplifies the process it's worth it, I usually just make tools but I figured since I had the income I would save my time

No a c clamp saves you time. Turned wrenches for 10 years and it's all I use unless it was rear braking brake calipers. You can check for a seized caliper and slides without taking anything apart.

 

[Project_shadow]

No a c clamp saves you time. Turned wrenches for 10 years and it's all I use unless it was rear braking brake calipers. You can check for a seized caliper and slides without taking anything apart.

That's not my point, I hate c clamps, I wanted a tool to replace it, and I'm looking for the best tool that I can find, not a discussion on why others prefer the c clamp, I do not, Ive done my families brakes this way for 10 years now and I have decided to find a reason to buy a dedicated tool for it, I'm not trying to be an a-hole in my response but I get that some of you use the c clamp and are fine with it, I just wanted information from the people that have one and wether or not they would get the better one of the bunch or if the one they have works

 

[gungatim]

I mentioned this on the other thread, but the large jumbo size Channellock pliers is the quickest and easiest by far. and you will use it for other things.

I get the C-clamp love/hate, they take time to spin in, my big ones end up crooked, but the pliers are always really easy.

as for that Lisle tool, I had a couple of them. they are super cheap, will bend, and the handle will spin/break off so you have to weld a "T" on it to use it. it will not last.

the old HF kit which I also have is super nice (before they downsized it) but I only use that for the dual piston or the screw in piston setups on GM...

get a big pair of channellocks, you won't regret it...

 

[Project_shadow]

I mentioned this on the other thread, but the large jumbo size Channellock pliers is the quickest and easiest by far. and you will use it for other things.



I get the C-clamp love/hate, they take time to spin in, my big ones end up crooked, but the pliers are always really easy.



as for that Lisle tool, I had a couple of them. they are super cheap, will bend, and the handle will spin/break off so you have to weld a "T" on it to use it. it will not last.



the old HF kit which I also have is super nice (before they downsized it) but I only use that for the dual piston or the screw in piston setups on GM...



get a big pair of channellocks, you won't regret it...

A new guy at work said he didn't have any issues with his, seems to be a hit or miss item, I might get one off tool truck just to have the warranty if it does break

 

[WhiffySpark]

The bluepoint hand press is nice

 

[6PTsocket]

The OTC and ATD ball joint kits are good and not much more pricey than the HF kit. I'd generally stay away from HF stuff. I mean, some of their stuff is OK, but usually for just 20% or so more you can find a better option.

In a lot of cases it is the same tool for a higher price. HF is a direct importer and can sell cheaper. Any brand name sticker can go on that blow molded case.

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[6PTsocket]

HF has switched to an over-priced kit. I bought this one on eBay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/21-pcs-Univ...ol-Kit-/262783011539?var=&hash=item3d2f168ad3

That is a really great deal with LH and RH screws,and a lot of adapters for a really low price. I just have the one screw and far fewer adapters.

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[ovilla]

This is what I use now. Much better than the Lisle tool and you'll find a ton of other uses for it too. It's also heavy enough to stay in place and you can put a socket on the end of it, so you can quickly spread/compress with your drill or impact gun.

One more tool to add to your arsenal. You're welcome!

 

[B.S.A. (ret.)]

That's not my point, I hate c clamps, I wanted a tool to replace it, and I'm looking for the best tool that I can find, not a discussion on why others prefer the c clamp, I do not, Ive done my families brakes this way for 10 years now and I have decided to find a reason to buy a dedicated tool for it, I'm not trying to be an a-hole in my response but I get that some of you use the c clamp and are fine with it, I just wanted information from the people that have one and wether or not they would get the better one of the bunch or if the one they have works

After reading post #20 from the OP, I refrain from offering my opinion of preferring a C-clamp for this operation. Almost added fuel to the "fire" so to speak; glad I read everything before adding my $0.02.

 

[md21722]

20" channel locks work great. Way better than a c-clamp. The Lisle brake piston tool can be purchased on the Snap On truck if you desired. For turning rear pistons search for a thread I started last fall. For ball joints the style is all the same until you go up to the BJP1. Some guys knock them out with a big air hammer.

 

[Project_shadow]

After reading post #20 from the OP, I refrain from offering my opinion of preferring a C-clamp for this operation. Almost added fuel to the "fire" so to speak; glad I read everything before adding my $0.02.

Lol, I've used them but I'm over them, nothing against anyone here that uses them, but I said in the op that I didn't want to anymore, and it amazes me how many people will comment about that instead of the tool I was asking about, nothing against anyone here but it's like that on a lot of threads, guys commenting the exact opposite of what the thread is about

 

[B.S.A. (ret.)]

I'm with you there. Kind of like when you set out to clean the garage, then put something you found there in the shed (where it belongs). While you're in the shed, you notice that the mower is leaking oil, so you start to fix that and discover that you have to run down to the store to get a gasket/screw/part. On the way down to the parts store, the wife calls you and asks you to pick up the dry cleaning (as long as you're out) and maybe stop off at the grocery store because she needs something to make for supper... etc., etc. the military has a term for it - it's called "Mission Creep". LOL on my part as well. No offense meant and none taken. Good luck in the search for the perfect tool.

 

[Tech92420]

I have the matco dual piston compressor, same as lisle but rebranded. I personally prefer a ratcheting caliper press, I have one from blue point. I find the piston compressor is hard on the hands if you're busting out brake jobs all day. The ratcheting caliper press is easier on the hands. The piston compressor comes in real handy if you are doing rear disc brakes, the ratcheting caliper press is a little too wide for rear disc brakes. I always first try to shock ball joints and tie rod ends loose with a hammer first. I have a little 2 arm puller that I always use for ball joints and tie rod ends if that doesn't work. I try to avoid using pickle forks, they tear ball joint and tie rod end boots. Im just talking abiut when you have to remove a tie rod or ball joint to do an axle. I never service ball joints, cheaper to just buy control arms with ball joints if you take the labor into consideration.