When I was in the military we used a wax that melted down to line the drawers in our tool boxes. It was easier to use than foam (no cutting required) and it kept the tools lubricated. I was hoping someone here could direct me to where I can get some.
Tool Box Wax
- Thread starter nockowt1
- Start date
garfunkle24
Well-known member
I'm sorry, I can't. Sounds like great stuff though! I'm interested to learn more on this so someone please educate me!
Edit: Are you sure there wasn't just a little fella who used to clean, lube and put your tools back where they belong?
Last edited:
<>Severed<>
Well-known member
I know what your talking about my dad did it in one of his tap and die sets. I know he knows the name but I cant think of it. I know he even has some of it not it use. I can find out tomorrow if no one else knows the answer.
chad s
Well-known member
Was it Paraffin?
<>Severed<>
Well-known member
Thats what came to mind and I have been searching around to see if I could find one that wasnt beauty based. And was ment for tools
chad s
Well-known member
Id look at candle making supply companies.
BlackLead
Well-known member
Could you mean Cosmoline? That was pretty popular for some time.
chad s
Well-known member
That would make an absolute mess. Might as well fill the bottom of the drawers in vaseline!
<>Severed<>
Well-known member
Those have been popping up as well I think the stuff my dad has is just a clear form of it. But not 100%.
<>Severed<>
Well-known member
Found it. well kinda my dad did after three phone calls. Im pretty sure what your looking for is Hot-Melt Reusable Peel-Away Coatings http://www.mcmaster.com/ if you click on some thing and then in the top there is a page number go to page 2078 and its on there.
From the page -----
Heat these coatings up to the optimal temperature listed below and then dip metal objects into them for a tough, transparent coating that dries in just 1 to 2 minutes (see pages 2687-2688 for melting pots). Coatings can be remelted and reused many times. They're designed for indoor use only (unless noted). Meet MIL-P-23242B (except for Style F).
Please specify 1-, 5-, or 10-lb. blocks.
Styles A and B— These coatings contain mineral oil, leaving an oily film for superior corrosion protection. Both are solvent based. Style A is transparent amber; Style B is clear.
Style B uses pure white mineral oil to resist darkening over time.
From the page -----
Heat these coatings up to the optimal temperature listed below and then dip metal objects into them for a tough, transparent coating that dries in just 1 to 2 minutes (see pages 2687-2688 for melting pots). Coatings can be remelted and reused many times. They're designed for indoor use only (unless noted). Meet MIL-P-23242B (except for Style F).
Please specify 1-, 5-, or 10-lb. blocks.
Styles A and B— These coatings contain mineral oil, leaving an oily film for superior corrosion protection. Both are solvent based. Style A is transparent amber; Style B is clear.
Style B uses pure white mineral oil to resist darkening over time.
ricleh
Well-known member
Bicycle chain wax would probably work for this as well.
buening
Well-known member
I'm curious to see a write-up on this for a tool box drawer. Any takers? 
<>Severed<>
Well-known member
no problem I knew I had seen it. It was perfect for the tap and die set never had a bit of rust on it.
<>Severed<>
Well-known member
I'm curious to see a write-up on this for a tool box drawer. Any takers?
I dont think I would personaly do a whole drawer with it but I can see a use for it. Tap and die or other machining tools, chisels. I wouldnt do it for wrenchs or any thing else like that because I do body work and wouldnt want extra oils floating around something I might have to paint
vlpronj
Well-known member
Not that I'm ready to do it, but does it seem like you could do the "shadowing" some people do with foam, by pouring it in, letting it start to cool, and gently push your tools/sockets/ etc. into it?
Just a thought.
Just a thought.
<>Severed<>
Well-known member
That is the way I would do it. I asked my dad and thats what he did but then did some triming with a razor knife to fine tune it. I would line the drawer with plastic wrap before doing it so it woud come back out and for the little holes in draws so it doesnt leak out before it starts to gel up.
Frank Elson
Well-known member
It's probably just me but I'm totally confused here.
Are you saying the wax lines the drawer, but stays soft enough to coat the tools when you lie them in the drawer, or you dip the tools in the molten wax which then hardens to coat the tools?
In any case, if you served in a hot theatre the wax would stay soft, or even remelt and make a complete mess of your box and tools surely?
Are you saying the wax lines the drawer, but stays soft enough to coat the tools when you lie them in the drawer, or you dip the tools in the molten wax which then hardens to coat the tools?
In any case, if you served in a hot theatre the wax would stay soft, or even remelt and make a complete mess of your box and tools surely?
vlpronj
Well-known member
You know, thinking ahead and planning things is cheating!
That does sound like it could prevent a big mess!
<>Severed<>
Well-known member
It melts like wax but when its solid it is kinda more like a greasy plastic then candle wax. I know it comes on some router bits and carbide burrs and I have even seen it on honda hubs as of late (green color junk you have to cut off) I think covering sharp stuff was its first use but then someone figured out it was good for other stuff.
Frank Elson
Well-known member
Thanks, but that hardly answers my confusion does it...
nissan_crawler
Well-known member
I hope its not the same as what we get our saw blades and punch die covered in. Even before we get the boxes opened it smells like something crawled in and died. The stuff is rank.
<>Severed<>
Well-known member
Sorry thought that would clear some of it up. It takes a higher temp to melt it then what you would get in ambaint air, now in direct sunlight in the Sahara it might melt. The way the tap and die set was done, was to melt it to a liquid and pour into the metal case till it was about half full and let sit till it was hard. the the tap and dies where put in so they all fit and more of the wax was melted and poured in around them but not to where they where covered. Once that was hard then the pieces where taken out and the cavities where cleaned up with a razor blade so it looked nice but still kinda a tight fit. the oil that is in it kept it from ever showing any signs of rust.
If that doesnt help I am confused on what your confused about.
<>Severed<>
Well-known member
I have never seen/smelled any like that, lucky I guess. But I would say it is close. The stuff I have messed with is oily smelling but not bad.
Some of the stuff that comes on bits and what not will not remelt. But some of the green honda stuff will. I think it depends on the chemical make up of it.
