Tool Chest question

[mgoguen]

Hey all,
So I originally started out with a Craftsman tool box and through the years have graduated to tool chest, then the us general 26" tool chest then added a side cabinet and now we are at that time again. Time for an addition! I ended up getting another side chest (had to buy used since this series was discontinued) I also found a middle chest that will add some space too. I have maxes out the width I can go and the middle drawer will add some height. I have 2 questions. First i am considering taking the casters off as I don't move the chest and it would help with the excessive height, is it ok to just let the box sit on the concrete? I am not worried about moisture or anything just wondering if the boxes are designed to put the weight on the wheels specifically.
Secondly wondering if anyone does any anchoring to prevent tip over? I have heard stories of disasters and I am paranoid person haha. I have never had issues with this in the past. The side boxes are a good 6in deeper then the center box I have which does tend to place more weight on the back side of the set up making the open drawers weight cancel out. Am just curious since if I do decide to take the wheels off the set up becomes permanently stationary which is fine as it will have nowhere to move to anyway ha ha.

 

[CraigStu]

Just because it would bother me sitting it directly on concrete, I'd probably cut a piece of plywood an inch oversized in both directions to sit it on. Another option would be a few chunks of 2x4 cut to about the same size as the base plates for the wheels. That way it is sitting on the specific part of the bottom that it was designed to. I have never worried about mine tipping over.

 

[mgoguen]

I was thinking some plywood too as I have some extra lying around. The middle box arrives today so I think I will set it up and see how the height works for me if it needs to be lower out come the wheels. That will be a project in and of itself ha ha. Reall let ya know how much stuff ya own when it all needs to come out

 

[NUTTSGT]

At the lowest, I would probably build a 2x4 frame for it to sit on.

Make sure whatever you use, is tall enough for the sheet metal of the bottom to clear the floor. I believe there is a lip around the bottom of the box.

 

[mgoguen]

there is, thats what caught my attention as that lip would be taking all the weight..... Wood frame would be a good idea though I will keep that in mind. Still hopeful the wheels will be fine I even got a couple stabilizers for under the 2 side boxes just for added comfort haha. My current set up has been perfectly fine for many years now just with the added space needed some of that is being built up. I am not worried about weight as my drawers aren't packed and are no where near their weight rating at a'll Not to mention wen I look at the larger boxes they have the same wheels with larger weight ratings. So the weight rating doesn't come from the wheels so we are good to go.

 

[Skyman]

While I can understand the concern about height, I would never want a roll cab that was not on wheels. I seldom move mine, but for that once every year or two that I do, I am damned glad it's on wheels. If only to clean behind and under it, or to retrieve a tool or other item that got away from me, etc.

Are you damned sure you won't ever want to move that beast? Personally, I prefer to have nearly everything on wheels in a garage or workshop.

 

[WillyBoy]

It's more work to raise the cabinet enough to remove the wheels and then set the cabinet on something that will keep it off the floor when it's already off the floor now. Like Skyman wrote, it will likely create more of a problem than it will solve. Unless the wheels are a real problem, leave them alone.

 

[Jgaz]

When I built my miter saw bench/cabinets I built my old SnapOn box into the bench.
I removed the casters and added a block in their place that just barely raised the lip of the box off the cabinet surface.
I did this after living with my shop layout for a few years and knowing that I wanted to be done with cleaning under and behind the tool box and miter saw stand.
I also knew I wanted a toe kick when I made the box semi permanent
This has worked well for me

 

[mgoguen]

While I can understand the concern about height, I would never want a roll cab that was not on wheels. I seldom move mine, but for that once every year or two that I do, I am damned glad it's on wheels. If only to clean behind and under it, or to retrieve a tool or other item that got away from me, etc.

Are you damned sure you won't ever want to move that beast? Personally, I prefer to have nearly everything on wheels in a garage or workshop.

Nah it won't move. If it was right on the floor I wouldn't need to clean under it. I have an old filing cabinet full of car parts that never moves either. I hung my wall cabinets in such a way that there is no other place for this stuff to go ha ha. My biggest concern is height and or stability. When i get home i will take a picture of my current set up and the parts i plan to add

 

[mgoguen]

my current set up. I am adding a side box on the right side and a 3 draw intermediate box which will lift the top box 12" the side boxes are about 6 in deeper than the main part which makes it balance nicely (counterweight to open drawers)

 

[NUTTSGT]

You've already ordered what you want I would guess but a 44" bottom box with your chest sitting on top may have served you better.

Sell the side and bottom box to cover cost or build them into a different bench and set them up for fastener storage.

 

[mgoguen]

I added to what I already have. Back when I started my planning didn't do a good job of taking into account future expansion or needs. As the garage grew up the tool box became outgrown. Not by much but the growth will most likely continue . The problem happened when the garage grew around the tool box taking away all the room for expansion. The free filing cabinet which is now filled with spare parts for the Yugo and Bug took a good portion of availble floor space. This option seems to be the best at the moment, talk to me years down the road see how that's holding up ha ha ha. I am amazed how much tool storage has gone up in price. I thought I got my whole original set up for like 40400n sale and with a coupon now that same set up is 650. At this point I have a lot of money in tool storage but still under 1k which sounds nuts saying that is a good number to be under haha. One day I should sit down and tally up how much everythign in the garage costs and I would probably want to cry ha haha

 

[Jon h]

Will you be able to see into the top of the box with the middle section you’re gonna add?

Jon h.

 

[Boogerman]

Under $1000 for tool storage is practically free, but your thoughts on that give a good perspective of why you're in the situation you describe.

Personally, I wouldn't add a middle chest. I did that once, and it made the top till unusable, and the top drawers hard to use. You end up with wasted space because of how hard they are to use and they end up as dead storage for unneeded junk.

You've already ordered what you want I would guess but a 44" bottom box wi your chest sitting on top may have served you better.

Sell the side and bottom box to cover cost or build them into a different bench and set them up for fastener storage.

Nuttsgt is right on.

I would get over the "under $1000" mindset, and upgrade to a 24" or 29" deep chest, without side cabinets that would fit the space. When you upgrade, pay close attention to drawer size and layout, and make sure it fits your needs. Good layout makes the space more efficient and minimizes box size needed.

But, if you don't want to do that, (or even if you do) the cheapest storage space would be good racks for the tools. You mentioned you didn't have the drawers overly full. Properly racking tools will gain you an immense amount of space in whatever cabinet you use.

The best and cheapest storage space I bought has been socket rails and wrench racks.

I arrived at Vim Magrails for sockets. They take up the least space both vertically and horizontally; and are customizable to use all your space. You can mix drive sizes on a rail, which is great for complete sets of Torx, Hex, etc. They save nearly 1/2 of the space most other storage racks take. $100 to $150 of rails really buys you some toolbox drawer space.



For wrench racks, there is only one excellent choice, that is Snap-on KRA15A. Here's an old thread on them:

Wrench rails - any Snap-on Equivalents?

Okay, I'm getting a bit impatient. I bought snap on wrench rails in October for my KRA box. They are great. No complaints. Good Price. Work Perfectly. Fit just right. Hold wrenches without problems. Only problem is they're sold out at Snap-on, I've had more on order for 3 months. The...

www.garagejournal.com

Ernst racks are close, but don't work. There's a lot of other copies, but none work correctly. They're not expensive, about $20 a pair from your driver; and well worth that and 2 pair are like buying an extra drawer in your cabinet.

As far as taking wheels off, make spacer blocks that put the weight back on the mounts where the wheels sat, or similar. Keep the steel skirting at least 1/8" off the floor, 1/4" to 1/2 would be better. If not, the box will rust, regardless of how dry you think it is.

 

[kerrynzl]

Hey all,
So I originally started out with a Craftsman tool box and through the years have graduated to tool chest, then the us general 26" tool chest then added a side cabinet and now we are at that time again. Time for an addition! I ended up getting another side chest (had to buy used since this series was discontinued) I also found a middle chest that will add some space too. I have maxes out the width I can go and the middle drawer will add some height. I have 2 questions. First i am considering taking the casters off as I don't move the chest and it would help with the excessive height, is it ok to just let the box sit on the concrete? I am not worried about moisture or anything just wondering if the boxes are designed to put the weight on the wheels specifically.
Secondly wondering if anyone does any anchoring to prevent tip over? I have heard stories of disasters and I am paranoid person haha. I have never had issues with this in the past. The side boxes are a good 6in deeper then the center box I have which does tend to place more weight on the back side of the set up making the open drawers weight cancel out. Am just curious since if I do decide to take the wheels off the set up becomes permanently stationary which is fine as it will have nowhere to move to anyway ha ha.

Use adjustable Machine Feet so you can level it.
I took the casters off one of mine and added machine feet because it has a work bench an vice on it.



You don't need them as large as what I did [I matched the height of the casters on my other toolbox]

 

[mgoguen]

Will you be able to see into the top of the box with the middle section you’re gonna add?

Jon h.

that was my concern but the middle box won't work with the top box so that height concern is gone. I will just add the side box and that is it

 

[SlappyWhite]

You can always make up some low profile feet out of wood (2X laying flat) that attach exactly as the castors do but at a much lower height. Weight transfer will be to the same point on the box and it provides an air gap off the floor for moisture etc..... and a place for dropped tools or small parts to slide under the box to maximize annoyance (I would do a kick plate around the box to avoid that last part).

I do not anchor mine to the wall. Instead I place 1/2" or 3/4" blocks under the front castors (depends on the floor) to tilt the box back a little. Drawers still stay open when pulled all the way out. Attaching to the wall is safer yet but this has never failed me.

 

[bazzz]

I have a similar 26” box that wobbles when I pull the upper drawers out. I was thinking about putting it up on blocks thinking it would stabilize it. After reading the ideas and thinking about it I realized that I really want it on wheels in the rare case I need to move it. I did make a thick wooden block spacer that sits between the box and the wall. The box has to stay off the wall for the top to open. It helps to have something to push the box against and it does help with the rocking when pulling out the top drawers.

I never thought about anchoring to the wall. May look into some kind of quick release system for that or at least something that only requires a couple of screws.

 

[the shifty jesus]

2x4 frame below. Got lucky that the garage is relatively level. Took up the slack with MDF and thin Masonite between the boxes and top. I needed a specific height for tuning skis, and the casters made everything too tall.

The aluminum angle at the back is bolted both to the underside of the top and the wall studs to keep everything stable, and to keep me from ripping the top off using my vise.

 

[LWB]

I have a similar 26” box that wobbles when I pull the upper drawers out. I was thinking about putting it up on blocks thinking it would stabilize it. After reading the ideas and thinking about it I realized that I really want it on wheels in the rare case I need to move it. I did make a thick wooden block spacer that sits between the box and the wall. The box has to stay off the wall for the top to open. It helps to have something to push the box against and it does help with the rocking when pulling out the top drawers.

I never thought about anchoring to the wall. May look into some kind of quick release system for that or at least something that only requires a couple of screws.

A 26" box that wobbles would make me nervous. Maybe make sure that it's on level concrete but leans slightly rearward if that's possible. You can always shim it. Tethering it to the wall is a good idea.

 

[quinnor]

Mine sits directly on the floor. It hasn't shifted or moved at all.

 

[u2slow]

I'm 12 years into my my shop and I'm in no rush to take casters off anything. The few things left without wheels are a little irritating. The space under the chest is another place to stow steel scraps and items in blow-molded cases. I suppose I do have a height advantage being 6'3" and I like my bench tops at 40-44".

If your concrete slab sweats at all, put an asphalt shingle under the wood you park the chest on.

Tool chests... I found side chests costly-for-volume compared to another whole wheeled chest. I have top & bottoms for 24", 36", and 41" now. Extra depth is not welcome because they occupy wall space on the 'tight' side of my 2-post lift, rather that being under, or mixed-in, with a worktop.

 

[no704]

Every thing (within reason) gets castors (bolted on) or is set up to be easily picked with a pallet Jack.
When I ran a shop it had 5 zones. Every Friday one zone would be cleared out and the floor scrubber came out.

 

[bazzz]

A 26" box that wobbles would make me nervous. Maybe make sure that it's on level concrete but leans slightly rearward if that's possible. You can always shim it. Tethering it to the wall is a good idea.

The movement is actually just the clearance in the casters for the swivel and wheels. There’s no danger of it getting pulled over, it’s just not a solid feel when opening and closing the drawers. The concrete floor is fairly flat and level. Both bottom drawers have so much weight in them I have thought about rearranging stuff to make them easier to pull out. I may attach it to the wall when I get time.