Tool collectors, what diminishes value?

[LoneGunman]

Does using a wire wheel on a grinder to remove rust lower the value of collectable tools? Using a wire wheel will remove the rust along with the patina.

I don't collect tools, I'll pick something up if I think it's collectable and I can make a few bucks on it so I'm wondering if I should leave them alone or clean them up. I am heavily into firearms, removing patina on a collectable firearm drops the value considerably as well as refinishing (reblue, reoil the wood ETC) so is it the same with tools?

 

[Merkava_4]

Does using a wire wheel on a grinder to remove rust lower the value of collectable tools?

If you can remove the rust without leaving any marks, the value goes up exponentially I would think. Some of those fine wire bench wire wheels won't leave any marks at all on satin finished tools.

A 48 hour soak in white vinegar followed by a water rinse and then immediately dunked in WD-40 will remove all of the rust without leaving marks behind.

On some of my pliers that have machine marks, I'll follow the direction of the machine marks with the maroon Scotch-Brite hand pad and you won't notice the scuff marks that way. On nose pliers, you'll notice the factory machine marks will be in two separate directions on the pliers.

 

[rsanter]

LG
it is the same thing with guns, toys, tools, cars, antiques
if the thing is in good shape that the patina can add to or at least not detract from the value.
however when the condition has deteriorated to a certain point that you will only be adding value by cleaning it up or restoring it.

with anything vintage you need to look at the purpose of the item. if the tool is to use the clean it up and use it. your use will create a new patina in time. if you want it as a collectable then always do the minimum you need to do to bring it to a more acceptable and more valuable state.

bob

 

[chad s]

Patina has become an overused word, IMO. Too often rust damage has been referred to as "patina". The surface of a well cared for high carbon steel tool will have a patina, that simply exposing it to the elements cannot duplicate. The same tool, kept in harsh, moist conditions, will have rust that that has damaged (pitted) the surface, and removing it wont make things better.

The field of collecting antique mechanics tools is tiny compared to the wood working tool community, and it seems that no real set of standards has come up. If a very rare Snap on tool come up for sale, Im going to bid high on it regardless of weather it has been wire brushed or not.

I think in general a tool that presents well sells better than an ugly rusty one.

 

[Blacknwhitepit]

The field of collecting antique mechanics tools is tiny compared to the wood working tool community, and it seems that no real set of standards has come up. If a very rare Snap on tool come up for sale, Im going to bid high on it regardless of weather it has been wire brushed or not.

I think in general a tool that presents well sells better than an ugly rusty one.

Well said.

I think a lot of Hand tool collectibles and values are partially driven by Garage Journal members and this site.

In the end, I take a wire wheel to a lot of my old stuff. Once rust gets in, it just won't stop.

-BWP

 

[krusty the clown]

The field of collecting antique mechanics tools is tiny compared to the wood working tool community, and it seems that no real set of standards has come up.

plus that the value of tools are low enough at this point it doesn't matter. unlike antique firearms. taking a model 12, or a pre 64 winchester and refinishing it could take a $1,200 to $1,800 piece down to field gun in collector value. but taking a $20 71n and wire wheeling it clean can't change the value much!

usually i will leave well enough alone unless it's rusted to the point i don't feel it worth anything anyway. it also depends on what kind of finish it had to begin with as well.

 

[LoneGunman]

"taking a model 12, or a pre 64 winchester and refinishing it could take a $1,200 to $1,800 piece down to field gun in collector value"

I was just curious about what the tool collectors would have to say. LOL what I'm about to say might get me shot on some of the Winchester collector sites. I just picked up a 1930 something Model 12, 16 gauge. It's functional, very little pitting but the bluing has mostly turned to brown patina. I'm going to start restoring it in a few weeks, pretty much all it needs is a little draw filing on the receiver flats and a nice rust blue. Ive been wanting a 16ga and this is a perfect gun to restore, plus I only have $150 in it.

 

[krusty the clown]

at $150 you don't have much to lose. btw i recently sold a model 1890 in 22 short. it was silver patina with several pits but very tight action. i got $600 for it but i doubt it would have brought that refinished.

 

[dwilliams35]

"taking a model 12, or a pre 64 winchester and refinishing it could take a $1,200 to $1,800 piece down to field gun in collector value"

I was just curious about what the tool collectors would have to say. LOL what I'm about to say might get me shot on some of the Winchester collector sites. I just picked up a 1930 something Model 12, 16 gauge. It's functional, very little pitting but the bluing has mostly turned to brown patina. I'm going to start restoring it in a few weeks, pretty much all it needs is a little draw filing on the receiver flats and a nice rust blue. Ive been wanting a 16ga and this is a perfect gun to restore, plus I only have $150 in it.

One question: WHY? If it's got piled-up rust and pitting, that's one thing: a true "patina" does nothing to hurt the gun's functionality, or for that matter, resistance to weather, etc.

 

[LoneGunman]

One question: WHY? If it's got piled-up rust and pitting, that's one thing: a true "patina" does nothing to hurt the gun's functionality, or for that matter, resistance to weather, etc.

Because I like pretty guns

 

[Bolster]

No, guys, no wire brushing, please! It's so obvious, even with really fine wheels. You can ruin a tool in a few seconds with even a fine a wire wheel. (Brass wire wheels are OK.)

I also avoid bead blasted tools like the plague.

Regarding rust, you can remove it chemically, but pitting remains, especially visible in chromed tools. I avoid rust as much as I possibly can on chromed tools. Not as picky about plain finish tools.

If I buy a brushed, blasted, or rusty tool (where condition has not been disclosed or has been disguised) from an eBay seller, I send it back.

 

[JebNY]

I have had good luck using electrolysis. Not sure what ********* tool collectors think, but I have seen it recommended by several hobbies as a non destructive way to remove rust. The tool comes out looking like it was just a well taken care of old wrench when you are done, if there wasn't deep pitting.

Here is a link that gives the basics, but search around to you will find a lot of sites.

http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp

Jeb