Tool for marking holes from edge of material.

[rattle_snake]

Looking for a tool or set used to mark hole centers from the edge of material. Or also a corner.

https://www.amazon.com/Carpenter-Precision-Woodworking-Engineering-Construction/dp/B0CHN5VPXM?tag=atomicindus08-20

?

 

[neophyte]

The old fashion method would be to use a marking gauge, or hermaphrodite caliper, to mark a line from the edge,
And then, to use a set of dividers to mark even spaces along the first line.

 

[RoninB4]

It might help to define what you'll use this on/for. A large part of what would be best for you is the expected level of accuracy, Is it for woodworking or metal?. Is the hole for a wood screw, a clearance hole, a geometric detail, a dowel pin, or a critical location? Not trying to be overly fussy here, it's just that each of those examples I listed call for a different level of accuracy or a different method to ensure success in the operation.

As an example, I wouldn't try to layout two dowel pin holes on different plates and expect them to line up well. However, if I clamp both plates together I can put dowel pin holes anywhere (drill in assembly) and expect good alignment even by using a drill press.

Example 2, if edges of two different plates need to be flush I might leave a little extra on one to be trimmed off after assembly rather than trying to be dead accurate from a finished edge.

My default answer about layout tools is use a calculator (center of hole distance), a good ruler (scale), and a scriber. For inside corners I'll sometimes use an adjustable parallel after compensating for scribed line thickness. More info from the OP would net a better answer.

 

[RTM]

I use an Incra Tee rule for those jobs

INCRA TOOLS :: Woodworking Measuring, Marking and Layout Tools :: INCRA Precision T-Rules

INCRA T-Rules make it very easy to draw exact lines in either direction. Select the proper slot or hole, insert a .5mm mechanical pencil, and mark the measurement with dead-on accuracy.

incra.com

 

[rattle_snake]

Mostly metal. I often want a series of holes centered on a 1" flat bar, for example. So 1/2" in from the edge. Or a corner, 1/2" in from both sides. Use a sharpy or a punch to mark center.

 

[rattle_snake]

I use an Incra Tee rule for those jobs

INCRA TOOLS :: Woodworking Measuring, Marking and Layout Tools :: INCRA Precision T-Rules

INCRA T-Rules make it very easy to draw exact lines in either direction. Select the proper slot or hole, insert a .5mm mechanical pencil, and mark the measurement with dead-on accuracy.

incra.com

Thanks. Looks like same concept as the link in post #1

 

[RoninB4]

Mostly metal. I often want a series of holes centered on a 1" flat bar, for example. So 1/2" in from the edge. Or a corner, 1/2" in from both sides. Use a sharpy or a punch to mark center.

-I bought a cheap 6 inch dial height gauge like this a long time ago for lay-out work like that. It has a carbide edge that can last for decades if used carefully. A magic marker, a surface plate, and a light touch makes clear scribed lines quickly that are more reliable than most other methods. It's faster and more accurate than a combination square.

 

[niget2002]

I use combination squares quite a bit. Adjust the ruler part for the distance from edge, then hold the marking tool to the edge of the ruler as I slide it down the length of the material. Then I use a tape measure to mark the regular distances along that line.

They work well for most of my work. There's many many more much accurate methods that I've also used when needed. Calipers, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002N5O9?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[tarbellb]

Haven't used mine a ton yet, like it so far

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07T9BFDJR?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[cannuck]

I use the notch conveniently placed at the end of the rule on every machinists layout square. Coat workpiece with layout blue, set depth on scale of rule, slide square along edge with scribe parked in the notch. If flat bar, do a line (SCRBIED line - I don't do drugs) from each side to validate layout.

 

[rattle_snake]

 

[Muckin_Slusher]

Link? search term?

 

[Muckin_Slusher]

I bought two of these carbide vernier scribes and like them.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07VVPM96F/?tag=atomicindus04-20

 

[R.Bolte.Jr]

I bought one of these several years ago after seeing This Old Tony use one in a video.

https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/sho...measuring/rules/61607-stop-rules?item=88N8908

by far my most used tool for such purposes, on metal and wood projects.

 

[RTM]

The old fashion method would be to use...., hermaphrodite caliper, to mark a line from the edge,
And then, to use a set of dividers to mark even spaces along the first line.

So, ignorant question, how does one ensure the hermaphrodite caliper stays even? Does one trace exactly on the top edge of the plate, count on the flat spot on the leg staying square, or ??

Thanks

 

[lilredex]

Make one, if this fits the bill.

 

[neophyte]

So, ignorant question, how does one ensure the hermaphrodite caliper stays even? Does one trace exactly on the top edge of the plate, count on the flat spot on the leg staying square, or ??

Thanks

Use of a hermaphrodite caliper to scribe a line parallel to an edge is not “idiot proof”.
It’s best done on straight or gently curved edges, and requires practice.
In theory, the scribed line can be “too shallow” in relation to the edge, but never “too deep”, as long as the non-scribing leg is on the edge being scribed.
Technically, you could just scribe a bunch of arches from the edge, and connect them with a ruler, but that is more of a pain in the ***.
Arches from the edge can be used to check you didn’t skew the caliper when scribing, and make the line too shallow.

 

[cvairwerks]

A machinist square, scribe, a flexible rule and layout dye is the easiest. With quite a bit of practice, you can hold the scribe between your thumb and index finger and use your 2nd finger as an edge guide and pull a very good, parallel line to the edge. Used to pull rivet lines by marking end rivet locations and using this technique with a china marker on bulkheads and panels. For the ones that couldn't do it, a screw compass and marker worked as well.

 

[danski0224]

I often want a series of holes centered on a 1" flat bar, for example.

A rivet fan can evenly space the holes between the end points.

 

[speed bump]

I use a square for marking offset lines, set to the offset you want and pull a line.

For sheet metal I have a scriber.

You can also buy speed squares with slots for a marking device.

 

[bugnut]

Couple items come to mind.
We used white dressmakers elastic about an inch wide with marks equally spaced for laying out holes on sheet metal. The stretch allows for equidistant spacing. Do not recall the accuracy but it worked.
Second was a 4r ruler 1" wide with a precision hole at centerline of the 1" mark. Hole was 1/16" so a transfer punch placed in hole could be set at any variable edge distance. This worked very well but was not jig borer accurate.

I like the black tool in your image.

 

[OccupantRJ]

When I am scribing a blued surface for layout, I use an Exacto knife to scribe with. It gives a crisp line up against the layout tool.

 

[danielbuck]

I slide a small combo square along the edge while holding a fine tipped marker (or sometimes scribbe). then if I need evenly spaced holes, use a rivet spacer/fan/thing