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Tool for scribing lines on mild steel.

809

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This is for fabbing/welding. I bought one of those tungsten carbide scribe tools that look like a pen but the tip kept slipping out until it eventually got lost.

I need another tool to do this job and am open to repurposing another tool to do it. Just need suggestions.
 
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Dave455

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Any conventional scriber should work just fine. Either single ended like thisC212989A-04C1-4928-A0EE-6F67587C5185.jpeg

Or double ended like thisBA723B8C-5E0F-4162-A207-0BED2035A29B.jpeg

I regularly use the type with the reversible point and don’t have any issues. Perhaps a better quality one might help. I have both Eclipse (U.K.) and Starrett (U.S.A. - shown below). Both work just fine.9E906226-C172-406A-88FD-77CC54D75898.jpeg
 

2oolhound

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A simple blacksmiths scribe can be quickly made by taking any piece of hard steel, heating to red and quenching in water to harden it. Some steels require an oil quench or just air (leave to cool at room temp). so if you have an unknown type of steel you may need to try different quenches. Once a file can't touch it you're good.

Not diamond or carbide but easy and quick to make with whats on hand. Great for regular hot/cold rolled. Springs can be heated and straightened and are great for this. Valve springs etc.

ScribesSm_9524.jpg
 
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809

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Okay. I'm being cheap here. I found a 1/8" slotted power bit (3" long). The tip is fairly pointed. Enough to make distinct lines. I made a few feets worth of lines on mild steel plate and HSS. I'll see how it holds up.
 
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809

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A simple blacksmiths scribe can be quickly made by taking any piece of hard steel, heating to red and quenching in water to harden it. Some steels require an oil quench or just air (leave to cool at room temp). so if you have an unknown type of steel you may need to try different quenches. Once a file can't touch it you're good.

Is S2 tool steel good for this application? I've got some drill bits made of this that I can sharpen up on the belt sander.
 

F-22

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I have a carbide tip brazed on an old hexagonal hole punch. Works great....
 
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Tools4Me

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For smaller jobs I usually grab a carbide pencil scribe. Mine were purchased from garage sales and they all happen to be round shafted, so I put a zip tie around each shaft at about the halfway point so they don't roll around when I set them down.

For larger jobs where I want to make longer lines or deeper scribes in the metal, I currently use a carbide cementboard/laminate scoring tool. I picked a couple up from a garage sale a while ago and happened to try one out for scribing steel one day and found it worked just as well as my pencil scribes if not better. More comfortable to hold if a little extra pressure is required or if you are wearing gloves while working in the cold too. Similar styles of carbide scoring tools would also likely work well.

 

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2oolhound

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Is S2 tool steel good for this application? I've got some drill bits made of this that I can sharpen up on the belt sander.
S2 should be great but it has a fairly low tempering range so don't get it too hot on the belt sander. keep dipping it in water when grinding.
 
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RoninB4

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Is S2 tool steel good for this application? I've got some drill bits made of this that I can sharpen up on the belt sander.
-S-2 is more for shock applications like a chisel but if that's what's handy then by all means use it. You'll need to sharpen it a bit more often than a D-2, A-2, carbide type but S-2 will serve you well.
 
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rlitman

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RTM

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Home Depot Empire Carbide Scribe- $10, done

I have one of those from when I was a kid, and scratching your name into tools was a thing (fortunately for your children who will collect tools, my writing was so poor I didn't). My only complaint with using it now is the tip is too fat to get into certain things. And of course I can't find it now that I want to take a pic

These two are my current favorites, as their tiny tip can get into my Incra jig, and its reversible to be pocket safe. Twin sons of different mothers, no markings on either one.
PXL_20221208_204517134-X2.jpg

These I just grab whenever they are cheap. Top Down, Eclipse, General, Starretts, and unmarked and possibly home made. As a woodworker who occasionally plays with metal, these can work in either media, but especially well in hardwoods. Doubt I spent more than a buck or two each when bought with tools by the handful or box full.

PXL_20221208_204631126-X2.jpg
 
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ecotec

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I buy the lightly used or unused ones at garage/estate sales. I have USA General, USA Craftsman, USA Starrett and unbranded/unmarked.

My take, is that once you have more than you ever need… just buy the best of the best of the lightly used/unused… I prefer USA Starrett. Is it better? I don’t know… but it’s a fancier brand…

Realistically… any piece of sharpened metal is fine. Before I ever heard the word scribe or had a factory made scribe… I used a sharpened piece of a broken file… I would be lying to say that a factory scribe is any better.
 

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matt_i

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The General Tool scribe I think you are speaking of is pretty versatile. I was impressed it scribed right thru hot rolled mill scale on structural stuff.

They probably should give you a few extra points, I broke one trying to use it as an awl and loosen up a bolt that was twisted off. I think if you cleaned it all with brake cleaner, put a dab of RTV inside the collet, and let it cure the point would probably take pliers and a slide hammer to remove.

Funny story about those General Tool scribers - I had a top loading washing machine where the transmission was a known offender across this product line and mine stopped working. After researching the internet I jumped to the same conclusion and ordered up a new transmission, puffing out my chest at the savings I was getting in not having to spend for a new machine (and probably a set to keep them matched lol). While disassembling 90% of the parts in the entire unit to change that out, I discovered the actual root cause - the external collet "nut" apparently detached from the scriber body in the wash, exited thru the perforated holes in the inner tub, and extremely efficiently jammed the inner tub to a stop against the outer tub. I had so much apart at that point, the transmission was a known weak point so I just powered thru, cursing under my breath the rest of the way. Fun times :)
 

zmotorsports

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Here is what I use after bluing. Nothing fancy, just a standard fixed point and blade combination or my diamond tipped scribe that has a retractable cover. Have had both for decades and wear well. The fixed point/blade one has been touched up on occasion on a belt sander but nothing extreme.
scribes.jpg
 
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