Tool gloat !

[road]

It's not a lathe or mill but I just got this off kijiji last week for $45. off the original owner.
This model was purchased in 1956 & made in the mid 50's by Atlas and a few others but Craftsman had these made for a long time. Sears still sells parts for these as well. It uses a 1/2" x 60" blade.
It is in such good condition I refurbished it.

First I rebuilt the drop cylinder. It didnt work before. I polished the cylinder valve on my 7 x 8 lathe, made a new knob and polished the rusty parts. I cleaned the vise screw, Rebuilt the 1/4hp motor, rewired it with a proper drop switch. The piece of steel on the motor plate is for added weight on the drive belt if needed & a little sand blasting to clean a few parts. I then made a stand with wheels from a 40 gal fish tank stand.

I spent another $20 on new switch and a new cord / plug, wheels & paint. With about 10 hours to finish the saw.

 

[road]

deleted

 

[road]

try it again .. grrr

 

[road]

once more..

 

[PCO6]

That's an interesting saw. For one thing it pivots at the opposite end compared to most saws that are available today (that I've seen anyway). I like the drop cylinder set up - nice and simple. Good job on the rebuild.

 

[bluebolt]

Nice job Road! I think that is a little later than 1956 since the Crown label didn't come out until 1958.

 

[2oolhound]

Good scoop on a handy tool! Nice work on the refurb too!!!

 

[KMinAF]

Can you post a pic of the drop switch? I just bought a saw identical to yours but it has no drop switch, just wondering how you fabricated one.

 

[jeremy v]

Nice job on the restoring that back to service, it looks really nice. That was a nice find. I have always loved the simplicity of belt driven power tools and especially mechanisms that utilize the weight of the electric motor to provide the proper v-belt tension. It is so simple and yet so effective, and that setup can so easily be adjusted to work using a wide range of v-belt lengths as needed.

The only thing I might suggest is some sort of a bumper, bracket, post, etc. a couple inches under the motor base plate so if the v-belt ever breaks or jumps off the pulley for some reason the motor doesn't drop and possibly damage the pivot attachment at the table legs. You could even just loosely hang a small chain from the bottom of the tabletop to the swinging side of the motor plate to catch it after it drops an inch or two.

I don't have a power band saw like that one, so when you say "drop switch" is that a switch that shuts off the motor automatically when the saw finishes cutting so you can leave the machine unattended when cutting thick material? For KNinAF, if that is what the switch does I would think you could make a DIY drop switch pretty cheaply and easily by mounting a momentary lever switch in a place where the pivoting frame would trigger it when it is in the down position. You could also easily modify a float switch like the ones found on sump pumps and mount it to the pivot arm.

 

[gus1962]

Great score. Amazing job on restoring the saw. I'd like to ask, did you make cuts already? Is the vibration too much or just okay?

 

[road]

Hi every one sorry I have not read this post in a year.
a few answers.

KMinAF :
I copied the switch set up from what I seen on most modern saws.
very simple set up .

jeremy v: good points on the motor bracket safety chain . a will do for sure.

gus1962: I use the saw frequently it has no vibration issuess, cuts straight n true.

Recently the saw has spit out the tire from the from wheel. I can still buy replacements from sears or from a local tool shop
Also the drop cylinder has started to leak down a little.

 

[jfhickey]

edit typoFree Craftsman Metal-cutting Band Saw, Model 108.22921, to Good Home

I have a Craftsman metal-cutting band saw, model 108.22921, which needs work, that I want to give to someone who can use it. I'm posting some photos of the saw I have and an old ad for a similar model and a link to a manual for a similar model.

It doesn't have the hydraulic feed cylinder that controls the drop of the saw into the material, but it worked fine for me, on the rare occasions that I used it, just lowering it by hand, until one of the "tires" (the friction bands that the continuous blade rides on) broke off and I took it apart to put a new tire on. (I was able to buy the tire through Amazon.) When I put it back together, the tire was fine, but the spiral drive gear now doesn't always engage and so the sawblade is not getting driven. I guess it needs a new nylon spiral drive gear (and maybe other work? - it could use new bushings for the drive shaft for sure), but I don't really use the saw and I don't want to take the time to do the work it needs.

I don't want to junk it because it is a fine piece of vintage machinery. I just want to get it to someone who could use it. I'm not asking any money. Just pick it up in New Hampshire here or pay for shipping and I'll get it to you.

Here are the photos and the old ad. The manual/parts list is at https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8aOmnLr1A2qekc0UU5ISVdLS0E/view?usp=sharing

 

[Roger Dixon]

I have had one of these for about 3 decades now. Great little saw. It bound up while in the midst of a cut today and shelled out the teeth on the small drive gear. Would anyone know where to obtain the small bevel gear that goes on the pulley shaft? The saw is Sears Model #101.22921. The bevel gear is Sears part #GBF-512. Sears no longer stocks them as replacement parts. Thank you.

 

[road]

Hi Roger,

Best help I would suggest is to have someone make one for you. or search for a used one.

my saw had little use before I got it. and it is still in great working condition today.

Now theses day my young son uses it more than I do for his hobbies.

best of luck

 

[jmarkwolf]

My dad had the the Craftsman Commercial variant of that saw when I was a kid. Always liked it. I'd buy one now if I found a good one on Craigslist, even though I already have an HF saw.l

 

[4x4gearhead]

edit typoFree Craftsman Metal-cutting Band Saw, Model 108.22921, to Good Home

I have a Craftsman metal-cutting band saw, model 108.22921, which needs work, that I want to give to someone who can use it. I'm posting some photos of the saw I have and an old ad for a similar model and a link to a manual for a similar model.

It doesn't have the hydraulic feed cylinder that controls the drop of the saw into the material, but it worked fine for me, on the rare occasions that I used it, just lowering it by hand, until one of the "tires" (the friction bands that the continuous blade rides on) broke off and I took it apart to put a new tire on. (I was able to buy the tire through Amazon.) When I put it back together, the tire was fine, but the spiral drive gear now doesn't always engage and so the sawblade is not getting driven. I guess it needs a new nylon spiral drive gear (and maybe other work? - it could use new bushings for the drive shaft for sure), but I don't really use the saw and I don't want to take the time to do the work it needs.

I don't want to junk it because it is a fine piece of vintage machinery. I just want to get it to someone who could use it. I'm not asking any money. Just pick it up in New Hampshire here or pay for shipping and I'll get it to you.

Here are the photos and the old ad. The manual/parts list is at https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8aOmnLr1A2qekc0UU5ISVdLS0E/view?usp=sharing

Wow, i really wish i had seen this when it was posted, i would have gone to get it.

 

[KMinAF]

Hi Roger,

Best help I would suggest is to have someone make one for you. or search for a used one.

my saw had little use before I got it. and it is still in great working condition today.

Now theses day my young son uses it more than I do for his hobbies.

best of luck

I realize the post is years old but last week the gear on my saw failed and I too can not find a replacement. You mentioned in your post about having someone make a replacement. Do you have any recommendations who could make one for a reasonable price? The gear is plastic, do you think a printer could make one that would be strong enough?
Thanks

 

[RTM]

Tossing this idea out for general ridicule. What does the gathered mass of experts think of this idea?

Without seeing pictures or owners manuals, you might have better luck trying to buy two replacement gears, from someone like Boston gear. By getting a matching pair, your odds of the teeth meshing correctly go up, and you don't necessarily need to have an exact match to OEM, as long as they fit the shaft, fit in the space, and are strong enough. Since you are going from plastic, the last item should be easy.

https://www.bostongear.com/products/open-gearing/stock-gears/miter-bevel-gears/miter-bevel-gears

Also, maybe steal the gears from an old car jack like my Fiat had, or some other device, (not an old drill press table lift tho)