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tool list for ame starting out

tatra

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met a youngun at a local canadian tire store and persuaded him to put back the **** he was buying and to come on here to get an idea as to what and why to buy quality wise...........dunno if he's registered yet but i'm sure i impressed upon him the wealth of knowledge on here that is for the taking............so what should an aspiring ame require to show up on the shop floor ready and equipped to work and gain the respect of his peers?............i did let him keep the digital vernier at 15 bucks and he took my advice on the min mag for a flashlight so he's got a start.........and what box would you guys recommend?...........i thought the c/t maximaum which is the montezuma the one to get but this is just for work placement while going to school...............
 
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tatra

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i saw your 1/4 inch list and hopefully we can impress on him the value of the tools, whether new or used..........kinda hope he chimes in soon as i'm kinda giddy about this thread.....myself i learned the hardway by shelling out retail for the first coupla years until an old guy also shopping on the truck i was on chewed the guy out and saved me at least a hundred that time............was paying cash and wasn't being given any consideration at all............got nothing against a guy making a buck but i am more interested in saving myself money than his bottom line............:thumbup:
 

Pond

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Feb 29, 2008
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I went through this program six years ago.
Best way to start out is with mastercraft/craftsman until you find out where you will be working. There is a reason why the float plane mechanics have the cheap stuff.
All sockets MUST be 12 point.
If you get caught with an adjustable wrench or automatic safety wire pliers in your box it is an automatic failure on whatever project you are working on.
As for the box, a decent cantalever box was the most popular. For my program, boxes had to be hand carriable.

The top reason the instructors gave for sears or canadian tire tools was that aircraft techs travel a lot. When you break a tool in a strange to you city at an odd hour, it is a lot easier to track down one of those establishments than a vendor truck of your brand.
 
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tatra

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makes perfect sense pond........where did you go to school and where have / are you working now?........and on what?..........
 

Pond

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Went through confederation college in Thunder Bay, Ontario.
Have been working on the C130 Hercules since school with the Canadian Military.
 

ZRX61

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All sockets MUST be 12 point.

What idiot came up with that rule? I've been working on airctraft for about 30 years, rarely even look at my 12points



If you get caught with an adjustable wrench or automatic safety wire pliers in your box it is an automatic failure on whatever project you are working on.
Every aircraft mech I know has an adjustable.... & just what are *automatic* safety wire pliers?
 

c130herc

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May 30, 2008
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My most used tools wrenching on aircraft, stubby gearwrench set,good pair of reversible automatic return safety wire pliers, cannon plug pliers,1/4 drive ratchet set all 12 point, a good flashlight,ball end hex keys/t handle hex, duckbill pliers, 7 inch/11 inch diagonal cutters, fine tooth ratcheting screwdriver, and of course a good pair of flathead/phillips screwdrivers... these tools will get you through 90% of all tasks. Good to have 3/8 drive speed handle as well with the ball grip for taking off/installing panels.
 
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Pond

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Twelve point sockets will work on six point fastners, but not vice versa. You can get through first year fine with six points, but you will absolutely require them for second year helicopter and turbine classes. Most NAS hardware is twelve point, and for some reason helo and turbine designers love them. (UH60 main/tail rotor, PT6 injector mounting bolts, anything an an A-Star, etc)
Automatic lockwire pliers are locking duckbills with a spiral rod and shaft in the middle. Lock the two strands of lockwire and pull on the rod, and you get a perfect spiral. I learned without them, and now cant stand to use them.
And this IS for school. Learn to live without, so you can do without if need be. Nothing powered by batteries, no 'cheater' tools (auto lockwire pliers, adjustables), and even a manual drill if you can find one.
As a matter of fact, most of the first semester is learning how to make tools from raw materials. A good hacksaw, blades, and good files are required.

Oh, and I am a military tech, as someone asked above.
 
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tatra

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guess it really all depends on the type of mtc. you are performing and where on an aircraft.........someone like nissan crawler has an impressive set for work and equally for home...........what i do as a shop mtc. mech., i could get away with a multi-bit driver, crescent , visegrip and piewrench which could double as a hammer........ course i have acces to more and utilze more as i am fortunate to have my tools suplied by my employer.........sometimes , more is less and vic versa..........
 

Pond

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auto safety wire pliers
 

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Charles (in GA)

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I would guess the school requires the students to learn how to twist safety wire with Duckbill pliers......... what a waste of time!

If the student plans on being a professional aircraft mechanic after completing school, he need a real good quality 1/4" drive 12 pt socket set, and also 3/8" drive 12 pt. Cutters (diagonal cutters) and duckbills and needle nose also need to be good quality, all of these tools will be used more than virtually anything else, whether it is a large aircraft or small, helio or fixed wing. Most everything else, you can get by with cheaper stuff till you see what is most needed.

Charles
 

rjohnson

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Marengo, Illinois
My dad is an AMT. From what he tells me he uses a lot of 12 pt. 1/4" SAE sockets, ratcheting wrenches, diagonal cutting pliers, needle nose pliers, duckbill pliers, and a ratcheting screwdriver.
 

jgj5150

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I am an aircraft mechanic also. I started out with nothing, and what I did was to map out all pawn shops in my area. I would note the ones with the best deals. I got great deals on snap on tools this way. I started out with a craftsman roll around and filled it with old (best) snap on, mac, matco, and craftsman tools. 12 point is a must. after filling with good old american made tools, I finally made the jump to a good KRL1001 hefty toolbox that will be mine till the day I die. I didnt spend a whole lot on tools, with the pawn shops and ebay, But now I have an admirable, much coveted tool collection that will be with me till the end. I seriously would travel on my days off to hundreds of pawn shops and troll ebay for all my tools. Now that I have the essentials, I do buy certain things off the snappy truck. Get a good pair of the blue point wire twisters, the china ones are ****. I can count on one hand the amount of chinese **** I have in my box. It takes time, but is well worth the effort if you are serious about your job. And this reflects upon your Bosses. If you work at an airline, you dont need the big roll cab. I work at at maintenance base, and I needed the KRL big boy. Ive even installed a flat screen TV in my personal drawer that folds up for viewing when the drawer is open! Good luck to your amt!
 
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tatra

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hopefully he's at least lurking and if so will come to the party......gave him my number and actually have an old cantilever box if he wants.......
 

nissan_crawler

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I would guess the school requires the students to learn how to twist safety wire with Duckbill pliers......... what a waste of time!

If the student plans on being a professional aircraft mechanic after completing school, he need a real good quality 1/4" drive 12 pt socket set, and also 3/8" drive 12 pt. Cutters (diagonal cutters) and duckbills and needle nose also need to be good quality, all of these tools will be used more than virtually anything else, whether it is a large aircraft or small, helio or fixed wing. Most everything else, you can get by with cheaper stuff till you see what is most needed.

Charles

My dad is an AMT. From what he tells me he uses a lot of 12 pt. 1/4" SAE sockets, ratcheting wrenches, diagonal cutting pliers, needle nose pliers, duckbill pliers, and a ratcheting screwdriver.

Plus auto wire twisters, speed handle, and 1/4" air ratchet.

All good advice.

Here's my opinion on tools.
Snap-On stuff:
Ratchets (or any good pro brand, really)

4 way wrenches - also called 30-60's, only snap-on has these angles, and trust me, the other angles offered will leave you hanging. Watch ebay, you can piece a set together WAY cheaper than on the truck. I'm about $150 into a $400 set.

safety wire pliers - they're milbars, BUT if you get them from snap-on and it breaks, you go to the truck, swap them out, and you're up and running again. If you get them from most other places, you send them in and wait for them to be warrantied. I'm on pair #4, so the extra money snap-on charges is worth the quick swap to me. If snap-on isn't easy for you, just buy the milbars from whatever source you find. Also, the ones with rubber in the jaws keeps you from dropping loose wire in some god awful place to retrieve it from. I recommend a 6" pair to start.


For the rest:

Sockets 1/4" and 3/8" shallow and deep, 12 point. Me, I use craftsmans, they've worked fine the last 8 years, I've seen no reason to change. Get a decent quality set with warranty, take your pic on brand. WARNING: If you think of getting SK sockets, be sure to look inside the deep sockets. The sets I had, had a "ring" partway up the inside of the socket. Under normal use, not an issue. However, on a stud with a jap nut on it (damn common on many planes), since the stud was a larger diameter than one with a regular nut that size, it would not pass through the ring in my deep sockets, making them worthless.

1/4" drive, 12 point swivel sockets. I much prefer snap-on. You don't need these to start, but you'll quickly see why you want them. If there's a few sizes you use often, buy them new, then scrounge the rest of the set piece-by-piece on ebay. You can get them for about 50% of retail. It took me 3 years to get my set done, so don't rush it.

Wrenches...1/4"-1 1/4" to start I would say. I have a combo set (craftsman pro), ratcheting combo set (gearwrench). These with the 30-60's from snap-on would be what I would recommend to start with.

After that, a stubby set, box end set, service wrench set, tappet wrench set, and 12pt tubing wrench set would be my recommendation, but you don't need these to start.

For brands...same as sockets, whatever you get at a good price with a lifetime warranty. Craftsman quality-up. I have C-Pro, Proto, gear wrench, snap-on, regular craftsman, grip (service wrenches).

Pliers...good set of diagonal cutters. I highly recommend the large knipex pair (great for big cotter pins), and the long, skinny, lighter duty snap-on ones (great for safety wire in tight places, smaller cotter pins).

Duckbill pliers are another recommendation, personally, I like duckbills with no teeth so they don't mar things, but it's all preference.

Knipex plier wrenches also come in handy not just for fasteners, but straightening sheetmetal, pressing bolts in/out, squeezing small rivets, etc. You don't need these to start with, though.

I would get a good straight needlenose, and a long pair of straight needle nose. Eventually, a 45* set is nice, but again, you don't need it to start.

Get good pliers, snap-on, knipex, channelock, etc. You will hate yourself if you don't.

Hammers...I have 8, 12, 16 oz ballpeens (plain old wood handle craftsman). I would get the 12 oz. to start with. Again, get good quality ones, but you don't need to paying for snap-on ones, either. Also get a good plastic tipped one.

Punches...get a good quality set. Personally, I like snap-on. they outlast my craftsman and mayhew ones 10-1. You WILL break punches when dealing with rivets, etc. If you have a truck that shows up where you end up working, it's nice to exchange them right there and be done with it.

Chisels...not often used, nice to have once in a rare while, but not needed right away.

files...get a few quality ones, if you'll be doing sheetmetal, get a vixen file. A needle file set is nice for blending props/turbine blades, etc. I bought a $2 itt set thinking it was a joke, and they're still working fine after 8 years of turbine blades...

I would recommend a 3/8" speed handle for getting bad screws out. 1/4" ones bend too easily for that use. Again, you can probably wait on this until you see what you will be doing.

Air drill. Get a good one, you'll use it often enough. I have a 1/4" CP, cost about $100, half the hangar uses them, they work great.

A 1/4" air ratchet is nice, but not needed right away. I HIGHLY recommend the aircat. You will be using it in very close quarters, and a noisy one will drive you batty. Everybody asks to use mine.

Screwdrivers...get a quality ratcheting one, I prefer snap-on. Get apex tips if you can, they last longer, and don't break/strip nearly as easy as most. For regular screwdrivers, you can start with a craftsman, etc., set. I used mine for 3-4 years, they got the job done. I now have snap-on and they do work much better, but you don't need to spend the money immediately.

there are many other things you will find yourself wanting, but this should be a good start.
 
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tatra

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hope the kid logs in, lot of effort put forth already...........wonder if he went back and bought all that stuff after i left?:headscrat
 

Keep

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......i thought the c/t maximaum which is the montezuma the one to get but this is just for work placement while going to school...............

Okay are you talking about the 72' one? If so it is $2200 CHEAPER to order them from strictlytoolboxes. They are selling the 72 Monti for $2000 add $100 extra shipping to Canada (I called and had them quote it) then 13% at the border for taxes/duty. and you are around $2400. CT price for the box was $4200 before taxes, $4750 after.

As for the tools. Craftsman has their 300+ set on sale 50% off right now. Though now that I learned it was all made in China I have a harder time recommending it. The Maximum stuff has a nice look/feel but its all made in Taiwan (as far as I could tell). But for the price you cannot beat either of them.
 

Atze

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Oct 1, 2011
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Hi,

Sorry to bump this old post, but I found it quite interesting.

I'm in the same situation, studying in aircraft maintenance and I am slowly building my tool box. School provides tools for now, so I have about a year to get everything. So far, I took advantage of the crazy (60%+ off) deals that Canadian Tires has, but I stick to the Mastercraft Performance tools, except for more basic things like hammers. Please remember that I'm on a limited budget.

I haven't found any 12 points sockets at Canadian Tires, but I found some at Sears at a quite good discount... so here's my first question...

Should I be alright with the following for the sockets or should I look for more 12 points sockets ?

1/4 regular 4 mm to 12 mm 6 points
1/4 regular 3/16 to 1/2 6 points
1/4 long 4 mm to 12 mm 6 points
1/4 long 3/16 to 1/2 6 points
3/8 regular 3/8 to 13/16 12 points
3/8 regular 8 mm to 19 mm 12 points


Also for the pliers... is the Channel Lock brand ok ? they are sometimes discounted... Would Mastercraft Performance be alright ? Or any other suggestions for the pliers ?


Thanks !
 

ourkid2000

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Jul 1, 2008
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Dude, I highly recommend you not continuing with this....

I have worked on airplanes with every major player in Canada. Each one is a bigger gong show than the next. You WILL be screwed over....guaranteed.

If u really want to work on airplanes, do it for the military.
 

Atze

New member
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Oct 1, 2011
Messages
2
Thanks for your reply ourkid2000, but I still prefer that than sitting in a dark office doing something I hate :p

But you didn't really answer my questions ... among the 12 points sockets, which ones are really a necessity when you start ?

Do you know any places to get acceptable quality ones at a good price (something like Canadian Tires or Sears present throughout Canada) ?

And for the pliers, for what brand would you go ?
 

jeffk14

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GA
Dude, I highly recommend you not continuing with this....

I have worked on airplanes with every major player in Canada. Each one is a bigger gong show than the next. You WILL be screwed over....guaranteed.

If u really want to work on airplanes, do it for the military.

Gong show? Yes. Getting screwed over? That happens a lot in aviation. Happens a lot in just about EVERY industry lately.

Still, after nearly 30 years working on airplanes, I think that if you want to wrench for a living, it's still a much better gig than 99.99999% of the automotive jobs out there.
 
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