Tool sharpening by hand

[Kaizen]

I'm stepping up my woodworking game and getting some nice japanese planes and chisels. I also picked up several nice kitchen knives that i'd like to maintain with hand sharpening. I opted for shapton glass stones. I have three progressive grits.
My question involves which way to push the cutting edge on the stone. I've watched a lot of people do all of the above and there doesnt seem to be one way to do it. With knives i understand pulling it will leave a burr but other pro's have used a push method with the knife at an angle.
Same with plane knives and chisels. Is this just what you feel works best for you or is one better then the other? REALLY don't want to mess up my stones or new tools.

 

[Ohmthis]

I have two different knife sharpening stone sets. Both are different on which way it specifies to move the blade to the stone. My sets hold the blade at a specified angle based on a holding jig. One says to push the blade (they are natural stones of different grits) on the stones. The other says to do a up and down swipes on the sharpener stone (diamond). I would do what is specified by what sharpener you decide on. I have a water hone for my plane knives and chisels. I can she even with them once done.

 

[LeeG]

I push and pull. I use a Veritas Mk. II jig to hold my chisels and planes at a fixed angle, then run them back and forth across a properly flattened waterstone. (I use the Shapton glass stones also). If not using a jig, then either push or pull, whichever allows you to maintain the same angle throughout. A jig to hold the blade is at least as valuable as a good stone.

My process:
Flatten stone (I have a diamond flattening stone, but can use sand paper on a piece of plate glass)
Flatten the back of the blade (for planes, you can use David Charlesworth’s ruler trick of just flattening the edge)
Progress through grits until back is perfectly flat. (flattening only needs to be done once).

With a flattened blade, set it in your jig with the desired angle. Work through the grits, removing the burr after each grit. Use a marker on the blade so you know when you've gotten an even edge.

Check out Ron Hock's book, The Perfect Edge for a good read on all types of sharpening.

 

[Dave455]

O.k. Three different tasks there!

For plane irons, I use regular Norton stones. I spoilt myself a while back and got a set of big ones. Nice. I use them only for plane irons. I pull rather than push, and have no problem with a burr. Sure you get one, but you remove it by flipping the blade over and using a circular motion to remove it, then repeat with the fine stone.

In all honesty, the quality of the blade, and the ability to held it exactly square, and at exactly the same angle each time, are more important than minor differences in technique. I also use the Veritas honing guide. Best I’ve used. Copes with just about any blade and gets exactly the same honing angle each time, which minimises your work.

For chisels I use an old ‘Eclipse’ honing guide (old British tool) that works just fine. I do use a different (combination) stone for my chisels, and an Arkansas stone if I want a really awesome edge.

Knives are different, and a lot of the advice out there is a bit suspect in my opinion. I’ve seen advice like “hold your knife at 25 degrees and keep it at EXACTLY the same angle as you sharpen”. How are you going to do that? Some sort of aid is essential.

I’ve found the best to be the rods, held in some sort of block, to form a “V”. Difficult to hold a knife at a certain angle repeatedly, very easy to hold it vertical! I use the Spyderco sharpener. Use it for everything from pocket knives to kitchen knives. Great at everything, except Spyderco’s - I can’t work out if they are badly ground, or if the grind was originally designed for serrations and they didn’t alter it.

 

[Copymutt]

No sharpening method I’m familiar with gets an edge as sharp as a final strop with leather or some of the high tech material used by the Japanese in competitions

 

[turbodave]

Project Farm had a good video yesterday comparing some sharpeners and stones.

 

[Kaizen]

Thanks all. I will check out those resources. Follow up question. Several of you have multiple set ups. should i be just using my shapton glass for kitchen knives? Will using them with my garage tools be a detriment besides just normal wear?

 

[matt_i]

My Dad made his own setup that clamps the chisel/iron at the required angle. It uses a couple of 6201 or 6202-ish bearings. He places it on a piece of glass with varying grits of sandpaper.

Stuff comes out sharp. I'm always impressed.

 

[Kaizen]

My Dad made his own setup that clamps the chisel/iron at the required angle. It uses a couple of 6201 or 6202-ish bearings. He places it on a piece of glass with varying grits of sandpaper.

Stuff comes out sharp. I'm always impressed.

i've been using this sandpaper/plate glass and cheaper diamond sharpeners on my tools. They work fine. I'm going for surgical level lol. my wood working has always suffered from my current chisels that do not slice wood like i've seen can be achieved.

 

[beamrider]

Look up Paul Sellers on YouTube.

 

[RTM]

I am opposed to pulling. I use various methods, power Scary Sharp, scary sharp, stones, diamond plates, depending.

I was working on one blade (MF #1 cigar shave for those who care), and managed to create a foil edge, about 1/8" long, by pulling. Very hard shape to see while sharpening, so I didn't notice it for a few minutes. I was taking out a divot.

If I do any pulling (or similar action on power), I always go back with a few push strokes to eliminate a burr (or foil).