Tool to remove a stuck slot screw?

[subarub4]

I used my impact screwdriver on the remaining 3 and they all came out fine.. however it's always the last screw that's the hardest.. all of them had rust forming near the start of the threads is which is why it's stuck..

The head of the slotted screw is pretty much almost gone and it's recessed in a pump, I can't really think of anything else other then trying to drill it out?

 

[BlindViper]

If you drill the head out you might be able to get the rest with some vise grips. If the recess the screw is in isn't important you could cut a new slot with a cut off wheel.

 

[davethorik]

do you have a Bridgeport? or access to one?

 

[fourjeepin]

Maybe you can break it free with a punch?

 

[subarub4]

do you have a Bridgeport? or access to one?

Nope

Maybe you can break it free with a punch?

I might be able to

If you drill the head out you might be able to get the rest with some vise grips. If the recess the screw is in isn't important you could cut a new slot with a cut off wheel.

I plan on replacing the screws when I have them all out but I can't mess the housing up since they are hard to find.

 

[Techie1961]

I would try to shape the head back with a punch and if you have the resources, make a punch that has the female shape of the screw head. Place it over top an give it a good smack. Then use a flat bit and hammer that back into the slot. Once you do that, the underside of the head will often have a little looseness so that you can get it out. I just took out a 6-32 screw yesterday doing it this way. It was recessed as well.

You can use the same technique with flat head screws and they are easier. You don't have to have a shaped punch since the screw head is flat.

 

[Erampu]

And don't forget to use all the words in your curse word inventory on it. That always helps.

 

[Big Pete]

centre punch on the edge of the screw, driving at a tangent will often do it, once you get 1/2 - 3/4 turn you can usually wind them out by hand.

 

[kenfain]

Try an impact driver. One whack with a hammer usually does it. I always use a little wd40 on it over the course of a couple days then use the driver. Sorry I don't have a link, but you know the tool I'm talking about. It tightens, or loosens about a thirty second of a turn, with each whack of a hammer.

 

[stonesfan68]

I'd try using a left-hand drill bit and seeing if that wouldn't loosen the screw up a bit.


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[subarub4]

Try an impact driver. One whack with a hammer usually does it. I always use a little wd40 on it over the course of a couple days then use the driver. Sorry I don't have a link, but you know the tool I'm talking about. It tightens, or loosens about a thirty second of a turn, with each whack of a hammer.

As noted in the first post I used my impact screwdriver I was able to remove 3 of them but the last one I was unable to and it started messing up the head with the screwdriver. I hate using a impact screwdriver with a slot screw.

centre punch on the edge of the screw, driving at a tangent will often do it, once you get 1/2 - 3/4 turn you can usually wind them out by hand.

I almost forgot I have a few punches in 3 sizes I had to use to remove a roll pin but it may or maynot work.

And don't forget to use all the words in your curse word inventory on it. That always helps.

Haha I did mostly for the fact it was the last screw I was trying to get out.. It's always the last screw!!

I would try to shape the head back with a punch and if you have the resources, make a punch that has the female shape of the screw head. Place it over top an give it a good smack. Then use a flat bit and hammer that back into the slot. Once you do that, the underside of the head will often have a little looseness so that you can get it out. I just took out a 6-32 screw yesterday doing it this way. It was recessed as well.

You can use the same technique with flat head screws and they are easier. You don't have to have a shaped punch since the screw head is flat.

The thing is the screw is a few mm long I should of posted a picture of the screws I did remove and how far the rust was up on the screw.

I'd try using a left-hand drill bit and seeing if that wouldn't loosen the screw up a bit.


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I have some screw extractors but I just did not want the head to break off which I doubt it would happen but you never know.

 

[StevenB]

Maybe try applying some heat & trying the impact driver again.

 

[Scout Driver]

Another vote for left-handed drilling. If you don't have a set of these bits, pony up the cash for a good set. Keys to success are accurately centering the bit in the screw when you start drilling. Drill slowly and patiently. With luck, the bit will "grab" and back the screw out. If it doesn't back out, keep drilling until you are nearly touching the threads in the bore. Pick out the remaining pieces of screw and clean the threads with a chaser.

Good luck and again, be patient.

Scott

 

[subarub4]

Maybe try applying some heat & trying the impact driver again.

lol I know how to use a impact driver I would of did heat if the screw was not surrounded by plastic!


Here are the other screws I got out with the impact screwdriver

 

[Westly]

The flange the screw goes through looks fairly thick. If you can drill the head off, after you get the flange off you'll have enough to grab with vice grips or a little stud remover. Having the flange out of the way will let the PB get to the threads better, too.

But instead of drilling the head off at this point, continue to try the hand impact. But first take a screwdriver bit and hammer it hard into the head to improve the slot a little.


Or you can quickly arc weld a little rod or bolt to what's left of the head and turn it with that. The heat that goes along with that will help too. Last resort, don't be afraid to take it to a welding shop to help with that.

 

[southalabama]

Dremel the slot. Then another go at the impact.

 

[cmandp]

I would try turning the screw out with a taper punch or sharp center punch first then move on to more extreme methods.

 

[Steinmetz]

Try an impact driver. One whack with a hammer usually does it. I always use a little wd40 on it over the course of a couple days then use the driver. Sorry I don't have a link, but you know the tool I'm talking about. It tightens, or loosens about a thirty second of a turn, with each whack of a hammer.

Agree. Try this.

http://www.toolup.com/proto_j7099a_...scplp1078728&gclid=CKKJq_niob4CFQmDfgodtk0ACg

 

[4x4gearhead]

Heat up the screw. This works for me on the case of planetaries at work. They use a countersunk m8 coarse bolt with a tiny 5mm hex (Allen) it usually gets them out fine. If not could you tack a small machine screw nut onto it? The heat + something else to grab onto usually works when the first procedure fails. Just my .02 hope you find some luck.

 

[subarub4]

If the screw was not surrounded by plastic I would have no problems heating it up..

Btw I've using my punch now on it and still no movement.. The whole black part you see is a drain pump for a Hobart commercial dishwasher.. however being as the parts are no longer made I don't to crack it because a gasket sits over that part (that's why the screw heads are shiny)

 

[subarub4]

Agree. Try this.

http://www.toolup.com/proto_j7099a_...scplp1078728&gclid=CKKJq_niob4CFQmDfgodtk0ACg

Still no dice

 

[metaleltr]

I would center punch it one good time and drill it out, use a bit just a little smaller than the head diameter, if you have left hand bits try those otherwise jut a normal bit. once the head pops off remove the plastic part. If the motor is being replaced i wouldnt even worry about trying to remove the remainder of the screw, but you should be able to get a hold of it with pliers to remove it one the plastic part is out of your way

 

[jeremy v]

One thing you might want to try is putting the other screws back in (and torquing them down a bit), in order to reestablish clamping pressure on the connection. That will free up some of the tensile force on the screw you are having trouble with. Just think of how it is noticeably harder to pop the last wheel lugnut loose if you have already removed all the others when you are changing a tire. You are creating the same issue here by removing all the other screws before breaking them all loose first.

Another thing you might want to do is try to knock the housing from the side to try and break any rust apart a little bit by jarring the connection and possibly vibrating the screw in the hole. Sometimes it doesn't take much to finally shock threads into popping loose.

 

[Jswain]

I would drill the head off and use a good pair of vice grips on the rest of the shank, just go slow while you are drilling so you don't get into the flange too much. Once the flange is off heat the remainder with a torch a few times then cool down near the base with some lube...do that 3 times then clamp some vice grips on and I would imagine it will spin out fairly easily. If it breaks then at least you are where you will need to be to drill & tap it out.

 

[Unmarked Bill]

The first advice you got is probably the best-- Drill it out

 

[subarub4]

I removed it by breaking the pump housing.. seeing as they still have a replacement for $45 I will just decide to order a replacement.. meanwhile the fan for the motor was so corroded that it just snapped in the middle

 

[MG44]

Ball peen hammer, round ball part on screw head and strike the other side of hammer several times with a heavy hammer. Then turn screw out with impact driver

 

[syeater]

You might want to try a Rescue bit

http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1/page_64550_39/rescue_bit_14_x_3_double_end_drill_point.html

go down the page a little and you can see a video on it. I have never used one but if I was still turning wrenches it would be in tool box.

 

[subarub4]

It's out

 

[Chadwilliam1]

One thing you might want to try is putting the other screws back in (and torquing them down a bit), in order to reestablish clamping pressure on the connection. That will free up some of the tensile force on the screw you are having trouble with. Just think of how it is noticeably harder to pop the last wheel lugnut loose if you have already removed all the others when you are changing a tire. You are creating the same issue here by removing all the other screws before breaking them all loose first.

This is what I was going to suggest.

 

[Balor]

one thing you might want to try is putting the other screws back in (and torquing them down a bit), in order to reestablish clamping pressure on the connection. That will free up some of the tensile force on the screw you are having trouble with. Just think of how it is noticeably harder to pop the last wheel lugnut loose if you have already removed all the others when you are changing a tire. You are creating the same issue here by removing all the other screws before breaking them all loose first.

Another thing you might want to do is try to knock the housing from the side to try and break any rust apart a little bit by jarring the connection and possibly vibrating the screw in the hole. Sometimes it doesn't take much to finally shock threads into popping loose.

+1. Rngr1

 

[Chadwilliam1]

You might want to try a Rescue bit

http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1/page_64550_39/rescue_bit_14_x_3_double_end_drill_point.html

go down the page a little and you can see a video on it. I have never used one but if I was still turning wrenches it would be in tool box.

That thing looks sweet. That looks too good to be true.

 

[torqueman2002]

Ball peen hammer, round ball part on screw head and strike the other side of hammer several times with a heavy hammer. Then turn screw out with impact driver

Stiking a hammer with a hammer (Hardened steel) is very dangerous.

http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/17562/reader-says-mythbusters-missed-on-hammer-strikes

 

[G_P]

It's out

Good ol steel into aluminum corrosion!

 

[subarub4]

Good ol steel into aluminum corrosion!

Yeah.. but after I saw the fan the motor was done for since that part is no longer made..

 

[3rdbuttondown]

Wire brush and soak with penetrating oil (and that's not WD40).

Heat.

Chuck it up in a drill press, it will take that right out.