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Tool up for BMW

92integra

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Jul 11, 2013
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hey guy's wondering if any bmw tech's are on here and could let me know some must have tool's that i should pick up, of course im starting as an entry level tech sometime next week and have plenty of tools just wondering what are the must have's that i should pick up becuase i can't stand borrowing tools from other tech's. thanks in advanced guy's :beer:
 
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tjmonsen5

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Fan clutch wrenches and fan clutch holders.metric hex and bit sockets and torx sockets. A good 17 mm impact socket for lug nuts. Brake bleeder master cylinder adapter. Cooling system pressure tester adapters, body clip removal pliers.
 
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92integra

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o **** o should have stated that it is job a BMW dealer... so factory service information and scan tools are provided.
 

ddawg16

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My next door neighbor is a BMW mechanic.....a very well paid mechanic....knows Jack Olsen......

It's not so much your tools...but your knowledge.
 

Qualitytools

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I have been wrenching on BMWs since I purchased my first E21 in 1980 and have had BMWs ever since. Not sure what to tell you as I have gathered tools as I needed them or rented some special ones from the BMW club. Best of luck on the new job, where will you be working?
 

Skyline

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Fan clutch wrenches and fan clutch holders.metric hex and bit sockets and torx sockets. A good 17 mm impact socket for lug nuts. Brake bleeder master cylinder adapter. Cooling system pressure tester adapters, body clip removal pliers.

X2 on all those.

Add torx screwdriver set. 36mm 12 point socket. Stahwille tie rod remover..

You'll need a cam timing kit for any different model you work on, but if you're working for a shop they should provide those. Bushing presses are needed to change a lot of suspension bushings (some require special tools, others you can get away with generic adapters).

You will absolutely need access to a factory level scan tool. The best, and most user friendly is an Autologic, but these are very costly. You will not get by with a Snap-on or anything else. There are some laptop based systems that might suffice (GT1), but I can't report personally on them. Virtually anything electronic that does not work right will need to be diagnosed with the scan tool, and the replacement part will need to be programed or "coded" to the car.
 

Matt_C

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Apr 24, 2014
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Don't really know what you'll be working on (ie, just new Beemers or older) but like others have said; lots of torx! The older 8 series wipers need a T80 just to get the wipers off!

Also, E36 (non coupe/convert) door glass mechs - they use an 8mm bolt to secure the glass, but it's a REAL shallow head with domed flange. You need a tight 8mm socket to grip it, otherwise it's easy to slip off and nurf up the head. I had a deep 8mm socket I ground the face down on, to remove the bevel. Harder to get it to fit onto the head, but gripped nicer.
 
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92integra

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hey guy's just wanted to give you an update and a question............ so far i really love the dealer its awesome..... i have a few torx sockets but i totally underestimated the need for all that stuff, so my question is, how good is VIM are they pro quality good enough to beat on all day ???? also i finally have a MAC tools dealer and just saw a BOGO on some torx sockets buy the regualar torx set get a stubby torx set all for 100 dollar's i figured i might want to go for this becuase i don't know how long my cheep as neiko set will last.
 

Qualitytools

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Congratulations on the job, what state and which dealer are you working at? Just curious since I am a BMW fanatic and I have owned several, still do :)
 

cherokee

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Working at a dealer....have you ever worked at a dealer for high end cars?

Let me give you some general pointers. Leave the car better then you found it. Even if it is some soccer mom's X5 they will toss a bi*ch fit if something is messy or dirty, goes for your shoes as well. Don't use your screw driver to pop panels off, you don't want to leave marks on any plastic bits...even if they are hidden. Be well groomed, shaggy beard, or dirty long hair is a no-no. Even in the states the germans have this idea of what a mechanic should look like. At a Porsche dealer years ago I have seen Porsche factory guys come in and say fire that guy he looks like ****.....and he was gone.

Good luck to you, you are working on some of the best cars in the world, with some of the worst customers.
 
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92integra

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thanks for the advice on VIM i really need to up my game in the realm of torx and allen tools and they Will have to surfice for now. and thanks for the advice on staying clean and looking good i went and got a hair cut after my first interview! i definatly feel the heat of making clean repair's and leaving car's better then i found them. i have to adjust to being in the dealer, I.E. ripping latex gloves off before i get into a car. i definatly will be giving my plastic panel tools a work out!
 

byoungblood

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Working at a dealer....have you ever worked at a dealer for high end cars?

Let me give you some general pointers. Leave the car better then you found it. Even if it is some soccer mom's X5 they will toss a bi*ch fit if something is messy or dirty, goes for your shoes as well. Don't use your screw driver to pop panels off, you don't want to leave marks on any plastic bits...even if they are hidden. Be well groomed, shaggy beard, or dirty long hair is a no-no. Even in the states the germans have this idea of what a mechanic should look like. At a Porsche dealer years ago I have seen Porsche factory guys come in and say fire that guy he looks like ****.....and he was gone.

Good luck to you, you are working on some of the best cars in the world, with some of the worst customers.

X2 on this.

I worked at a place that supplied plastic trim parts to BMW and Mercedes for a few months. On more than one occasion we had guys from Munich and Stuttgart come by to pay a visit, and anyone who wasn't involved in production was tidying stuff up through the plant. Working in the IT department I was usually tasked with making sure that cable runs to equipment looked neat, etc. At the same time, it was also a nice way to get some nice swag, the Mercedes guys in particular would usually spread around some nice calendars, posters and other nick nacks.
 

bimmer630

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Jul 7, 2011
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Flexo universal e torx are almost essential for trans-starter work. Basic wrenches are all you need with the exception of a 32mm .. A 30,27 is also good to have.
I had an SK 24mm long ratcheting wrench that worked great on the factory rear balljoint tool and subframe bushing tool.
You're gonna need a 12 point 14mm spark plug socket...
A torque-angle gauge or snapon tech wrench....
a brake rotor thickness caliper...
Along with a pad depth tool ( BMW 34 1 260)... There are oil filter cap tools you will need.. As well as hub cap removal tools for the older e38 and e39 cars, if you still see those.
Oh, and a radiator pressure test adapter
 
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bimmer630

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Oh.. And aren't vim sockets and Mac sockets the same exact tools? My Mac torx stuff is identical to my bosses vim torx.
Speaking of vim.. A lot of new BMW stuff is using the triple square/xzn sockets. Buy those too
 

Skyline

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VIM makes some torx sets that Snap-on doesn't; some needed more for Porsche than BMW. They are cheap, and very good quality.
 
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92integra

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VIM makes some torx sets that Snap-on doesn't; some needed more for Porsche than BMW. They are cheap, and very good quality.
skyline care to elaborate on the set's VIM has that are better or more complete then the snappies.... i found out today i really could have used a swivel e12 1/4 drive for doing a water pump on a newer 3 series. managed to get by with a wobble plus extension from GP and and a 3/8ths drive e12 socket, but i had to set the extension between the sub frame and the sway bar link before putting the socket on as it was to large to fit threw the gap. that and a swivel e10 1/4" drive for doing oil filter housing gaskets, and a magnetic deep 11mm for removing intake manifold on the same job!
 

shockwave

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Vim one piece xzn,Torx and hex are a must
And look for a 7mm universal hex 3/8 for rear brake calipers on newer bmw Gazette makes them I know
 

superautobacs

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Oct 31, 2008
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Speaking of E-torx...make sure to get a few of the common sizes in 1/4" drive, like E-6/8/10/12. In some situations, you need the low profile offered by the 1/4" drive for E10/12 (that typically come in 3/8" drive in sets). I'd also suggest getting a 1/4" drive E-10 U-joint socket.

For T-20/25 internal torx, I'd suggest getting long 1/4" hex shank bits to use with your cordless impact/driver. If they have holding capabilities, even better (Wera's hold-function bits are great), or magnetized tips.

For in-hex, make sure to get a super stubby 7mm in a 3/8" drive, and don't forget a 9mm (doesn't have to stubby like the 7mm though). The VIM 3/8" drive stubby set is good. IIRC, it starts from a 6mm (perfect for set screws on rotors) and goes up to 19mm (it doesn't have a 9mm though).

For XZN/triple square, a M12 size in a long/short length is needed for wheel bearing R&R.

For specialty out-hex sockets, concentrate on these sizes: 10/11/13/16/17/18mm sockets.

Strongly consider getting a few Ko-ken Nut Grip sockets like 8/10/11/13 in 1/4" drive shallow; a 10/11 in deep will be helpful too (like R&R of intake manifolds)

Get a flex shaft spinner in 1/4" drive from Ko-ken. I find it useful for reaching hard-to-access hose clamps with 5.5/6/7mm sizes.

Don't forget to have a 9/11mm combination and offset wrench for brake bleeding.

Get a 1/4 SAE wrench, both combination, but more importantly, in a deep offset. You can use it on E8 (I think) sized bolts that are used on the timing chain covers.

For R&R of under-body panels, get yourself some long 1/4" hex shank 8mm nutrunners (you may find having a built-in magnet to be useful, or you can go with a Ko-ken Nut Grip). Also for your cordless impact/driver, I'd suggest a long flex-shaft so that you can use your 8mm nutrunner or any 1/4" drive hex bit on the end of it.

If you do alignments, a XL pattern ratcheting wrench in 16/18/21mm will be handy.

a good bit driver is essential.

hook/pick set in long and short sizes

a hefty, soft-face deadblow mallet for removing wheels stuck onto the hub

trim clip removal tools, both short and long is very handy, not just for it's intended purpose either.

I realize now that these aren't BMW specific tools...nonetheless, they are all needed to make your job go easier.
 

bimmerTEK

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Aug 25, 2013
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texas
Basic quality hand tools(vim and snp on) and oil filter tool for n5xx engines, tire gauge and tool cart.. snap on 3/8's cordless impact and conrwell 1/4 cordless ratchet and small cordless 1/4 impact(cheap one will do) is all you need for couple months or years. don't buy diagnostic stuff since now they have diag techs in most bmw dealers
 
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92integra

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wow thanks alot superautobacs i was looking at the nut setter's you posted in the ko-ken thread but i have no idea where i can buy some of there stuff, stealing part numbers off their website and putting them in google gave me nothing. thanks alot guy's ill be working on grabbing up some tools you guy's have talked about and post back up when i need more!
 

Adam.C

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For specialty out-hex sockets, concentrate on these sizes: 10/11/13/16/17/18mm sockets.

Strongly consider getting a few Ko-ken Nut Grip sockets like 8/10/11/13 in 1/4" drive shallow; a 10/11 in deep will be helpful too (like R&R of intake manifolds)
Just for my curiosity, are the 11mm heads you are encountering metric fasteners?

I don't believe 11mm is a CURRENT std size for any metric hardware. If you are encountering the need for 11mm, it is possible the bolt head is actually 7/16" (std for 1/4" bolt). 11mm = .433 7/16 = .437. I wouldn't throw away an 11mm socket, but I wouldn't recommend paying a premium for a specialty 11mm socket, when a 7/16" (swivel for example) could be had cheaper. Ditto for wrenches.

Does anybody have any opinions on 11mm vs 7/16? Are there any other sizes like this? I can only think of 5.5mm BTW, I'm not looking for the near equivalents, only the metric sizes that we may be using on truly inch sized fasteners.
 

MLB0611

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Just for my curiosity, are the 11mm heads you are encountering metric fasteners?

I don't believe 11mm is a CURRENT std size for any metric hardware. If you are encountering the need for 11mm, it is possible the bolt head is actually 7/16" (std for 1/4" bolt). 11mm = .433 7/16 = .437. I wouldn't throw away an 11mm socket, but I wouldn't recommend paying a premium for a specialty 11mm socket, when a 7/16" (swivel for example) could be had cheaper. Ditto for wrenches.

Does anybody have any opinions on 11mm vs 7/16? Are there any other sizes like this? I can only think of 5.5mm BTW, I'm not looking for the near equivalents, only the metric sizes that we may be using on truly inch sized fasteners.



11 MM is getting to be a common size fastener, GM uses them on steering shaft bolts, and yes they are metric. Volvo uses 11mm lines on master cylinders too. Nothing on a BMW is SAE. 9mm is used too on Saab. Just did a Hydraulic fan pump on a Lincoln LS the pressure line was 20mm
 
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92integra

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Adam c

Yes 11mm on intake manifold bolts / nuts magnetic deep socket is recommended so you have a smaller chance of dropping them
 

bimmer630

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I bought a snapon 7/16" 1/4 drive magnetic socket just for BMW intakes, which are 11mm nuts on m62/m52 etc but snappy doesn't make those sockets in 11
 
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92integra

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GP is my go to socket choice already have the 1/4" shallow magnetic sockets! thanks tho shockwave i plan on getting some GP hex and torx sockets down the road as well......... just got my first tool i need for the dealer, astro pneumatic tire infiltrator with digital read out and back light
 

bimmerTEK

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As for intake 11mm bolt removal.. I will get the snap on 11mm swivel and extension integrated as one. I don't have a part number..it works out better..
 
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