Toolbox hutch lighting switch

[smittyjones]

So my work neighbor has the Snap On KEWLED setup in his hutch. He was able to talk the dealer into it for cheap when he bought his box.

I didn't want to spend that kind of cheddar, and didn't buy my box from him, so I'm looking for a cheaper alternative. I took some pictures of the "switch" and power transfer contact the Snap On setup uses. This device prevents the need to have a wire hanging out in the back of the hutch when the door is open.

But I can't find anything even remotely similar in hardware stores or while browsing online. Snap On guy said he can't get just the switch, but I don't think he likes me since I bought someone else's toolbox instead of another Snap On.

Part of my problem is how the door on my Extreme Tools hutch opens. Rather than the KRL, which is like a single panel garage door, mine pulls out flat, then rolls in.

I feel like running a wire to power the lights would require a lot of slack in the wire. One thing I considered was to just run the wire along the roof of the hutch (above the door while it's open), and affix it to the middle of the roof panel (or even the front). I crudely drew that in the fourth image I uploaded, and would probably just hook it to a manual toggle switch, rather than a limit switch or something.

 

[KSB]

Have you considered making as set up similar to the motion sensing one offered by Mac?

http://www.mactools.ca/en-ca/Pages/Media/Mac Tools Videos/Product Videos/MB97853.aspx

A quick google search showed quite a few options. I don't have a hutch on my box but I would want a light if I did, and would not be paying retail/truck prices.

Another idea would be to install a magnetic switch that turn on the lights when the door is open.

 

[smittyjones]

Have you considered making as set up similar to the motion sensing one offered by Mac?

http://www.mactools.ca/en-ca/Pages/Media/Mac Tools Videos/Product Videos/MB97853.aspx

A quick google search showed quite a few options. I don't have a hutch on my box but I would want a light if I did, and would not be paying retail/truck prices.

Another idea would be to install a magnetic switch that turn on the lights when the door is open.

I have plenty of LEDs, I got 8 20" strips in aluminum housings for $25, and I have a power supply. I also have some 5 amp limit switches, which I planned to use to turn it on if I didn't find something like the Snap On setup, but the inside of the hutch (and all of my ****) doesn't leave me much room to mount said switches. The more i think about it, though, the more I think that's what I'll do. My crudely drawn situation above with the limit switches mounted in the back somewhere.

 

[SquareLJ]

Why not just use a small pin switch?

 

[afazz]

Is this switch installed after the power supply? If the voltage is already stepped down, maybe something like this would work?

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Shop/Street-Rod-Door-Harness-Connectors/15.html

 

[mdbeck1]

mercury switch? Mount it to the door so that when the door is open the circuit is closed???

I've always wanted to get the sensor for my truck and set up the toolbox to unlock when it is near. I seem to remember someone on the forum that did that.

 

[smittyjones]

Is this switch installed after the power supply? If the voltage is already stepped down, maybe something like this would work?

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Shop/Street-Rod-Door-Harness-Connectors/15.html

From what I've read, those pogo pin connectors aren't meant to transfer power, only a signal, or instantaneous or something. There's also not much travel in them, and there's a bit of slop for the door while it's at the top (I could always drill a new hole and a new plug thing for the stops to keep the door pushed back, I guess). A limit switch will let me put it on the side, facing up, so when the door goes by, it has a long contact area to switch on.

Drew a poor picture again, yellow being door, and red being the switch. I think that's what I'll do.

Magnetic normally off switch and magnet. They also come as normally on switches.
Used for windows and doors in alarm systems.
Maybe a dollar at radio shack-type store.
All over ebay.
I put the switch in waterproof housings and use a magnet to activate so that there is no hole for a standard switch when making scuba lights and actuators and pingers. (I tell you the process just so you know this isn't google search one hit knowledge.)
Small
Easy
Cheap

Those switches aren't rated for any real amount of amperage though, right? It would just be to send a signal to a relay to switch them on. Even more wiring. I looked into this a bit already, but didn't really want the extra wiring and having to hide it, especially when I already have the limit switch handy.

I really wanted to be able to find that Snap On switch, but alas...