Toolbox lifting

[Sumboodie]

Have a KRA Snap On box that the wheel folded over and bent the bottom up.

Going to put together a base with angle 1/4" iron and set the box on it before it tips over.
Bottom steel is so thin it's a wonder it held up for as long as it did!

How do I lift the box and set it on the frame?

 

[BTL-A4]

I've used a engine hoist to lift by tool boxes. Make sure to balance it really well. Lock or take out the drawers.

 

[619DioFan]

I've used a engine hoist to lift by tool boxes. Make sure to balance it really well. Lock or take out the drawers.

Same here. I have several sets of the lifting straps from HF. I also use an engine leveler with them.

 

[bb29510]

take the tools out first

 

[Sumboodie]

Same here. I have several sets of the lifting straps from HF. I also use an engine leveler with them.

If it's strapped from under, how am I going to get the straps out?

I have forklifts if that matters. 5k, ~30k and tines for a skid steer

 

[Sumboodie]

take the tools out first

Did that when I moved it, talk about a huge PITA! Took the better part of a day to put it all back.

 

[Sumboodie]

Box is lower, upper and side cabinet.

Side just hangs off the lower. Should I consider framing under the side, put 2 of the wheels there vs under the lower?

Wish I had pics, but you all can probably visualize it.

 

[619DioFan]

If it's strapped from under, how am I going to get the straps out?

I have forklifts if that matters. 5k, ~30k and tines for a skid steer

You could design the frame with some built in cut outs to let the straps slide out or simply empty the box , remove top drawer and lift with fork lift via removed drawer slot .

 

[Radio Flyer]

Box is lower, upper and side cabinet.

Side just hangs off the lower. Should I consider framing under the side, put 2 of the wheels there vs under the lower?

Wish I had pics, but you all can probably visualize it.

I have made several frames over the years for boxes with wonky casters. Depending on drawer layout, I have removed the top drawer, and some of the heavy items. Then I would creatively set some 2x4s or scrap wood on the forks of the forklift a gently lift from the opening where the top drawer was.



This is a picture of a frame that we put together at home to teach my som how to use the welder. It’s the one with 4 swivels that I hate. The box was a little “tippy” with casters only on the main portion.

one other tip….. make the frame just a little bit larger than you think. In makes the box easier to set in, and keeps you from having to clean up the welds to fit it in. I got a little goofy with the last one, a three bay. I welded D-rings to the frame for transport and that gave me the ability to chain it to the wall.

 

[seber]

Don't unload the tools, Just remove the drawers while full. Two people can make this really easy.

 

[Sumboodie]

Don't unload the tools, Just remove the drawers while full. Two people can make this really easy.

They are a PITA to get back in. I'll probably just lift it as it. It breaks, oh well, it's already junk Snap On overpriced junk anyhow.

 

[Sumboodie]

It's a bottom, top and side cabinet.

Should I build the frame to include the side cabinet? Put the wheels at the end?

 

[nadogail]

I emptied the failed box and bolted it to a stout frame welded up from pallet beams,the resulting tool box was capable of being lifted by a forklift; it actually was lifted and loaded onto a truck, several times at different places of employment.

 

[NUTTSGT]

It's a bottom, top and side cabinet.

Should I build the frame to include the side cabinet? Put the wheels at the end?

If you are building a frame with casters for the box to ride on, Yes, I would build it to include the side cabinet.

 

[AEAdam]

The frame as shown above will do something, but it’s not efficient. Caster attachments are the weak points on all sheet metal boxes.

I would yank the drawers tip the box on its back and straighten what you can. Then, make a base out of something thick and stiff. 1/2” aluminum plate would be ideal. 3/4” cabinet grade plywood would work. The boiler plate needs to come flush to the outside edges (under the sheet metal sides), and really is best if one piece.

The root problem is that (you over loaded, over stressed your box) the weight of the box, plus contents, plus whatever is on top travels down the thin sheet metal sides. But the casters are not directly in line with the sides. So there is a rolling/ overturning moment looking to roll the casters in toward the center of the box. So the boiler plate (could be a 2x8) needs to run side by side at least.

 

[Sumboodie]

Not understanding why id need A516 plate.

 

[308guru]

Assuming you're making a frame with an open bottom......Lift it up with straps and hoist/forklift/whatever. Slide frame underneath and put some sort of spacer (woodworkers call them stickers when gluing or stacking) in between the bottom and the frame. Could be pretty much anything that gives you just enough space to get the straps to slide out. Bring a floor jack in from underneath, lift up just enough to get the spacers out and then set it down. Done.

Be careful.

 

[Cruzan80]

Remember, lift with your legs, not your back...

 

[tarmy]

Being that this is GJ…you need some unhelpful suggestions for new tools for this task.

I actually have built frames for large tools like table saws and used this. Otherwise, empty the box and crib it and slide in.

 

[AEAdam]

Not understanding why id need A516 plate.

Stiffening the edge of the box with angle iron can help. But the root problem is often the spot where the tops of the casters mount. My KRL has these box beams (shown above) that are supposed to stiffen the bottom of the box. But the casters don't extend to the edges of the box beam and can bend it locally.

This is a detail no one much talks about until they have a problem like yours, but its pretty important.

 

[bugnut]

years ago we'd remove the casters and fabricate a 3/8 or 1/2 aluminum plate to the outline of the box. Then transfer hole pattern and bolt the caster thru the plate and bottom of the box. When full it wheeled around the facilities bumpy old floors with no damage. All parts side cabinets etc were 100% supported by the aluminum plate. No caster failures ever that I recall.

 

[seber]

I've done this with so many Kennedys I couldn't count them. I use 3/4" plywood to reinforce the bottom of the box. Then mount the casters to that. 1/2" plate would be better but might cost more than the box is worth. If you want to move the box without removing the weight, you can rock it back and forth on ever increasing heights. Plywood shims would be my choice for this. Still a little risky as you are putting all the weight on just the back or the front uprights at an angle.

 

[Sumboodie]

1/2" plate would be ridiculous.

 

[Sumboodie]

Make more sense to use a plate of steel, like maybe 1/8" vs an angle iron frame?

Can see how super thin the box it. Maybe 16 gauge, if that.
I bought it about 20 yrs ago for $1k and overpaid for how **** it is. But fell into the "it's Snap On, do it's good" brainwash.
The side cabinet I got years later out of the trash bin at work. They lost the keys and had nothing it matched so it got trashed.
I got keys, hammered out some dents and put black trim on the drawers to match.

Nothing overly heavy in it, maybe 300lbs total of tools, if that. Fairly small box.

Have 2 Husky boxes i bought for about $600 new that are much larger and built a but better that have alot of my stuff.

 

[2oolhound]

The skirt of the box hangs down about an inch below the deck where the wheels mount. I took the wheels off the box and screwed in long strips of wood so they were flush with the flimsy skirt that hangs down. Then I lowered it into the angle iron frame that has the casters. This way nothing is sitting on the flimsy skirt, the weight is on the deck the wheels used to mount to.