Toolbox Paiting Help

[maximus20895]

Hello,

I recently bought a HF 44" Toolbox and I am looking to paint it. I've looked online to find out the process, but I keep getting different methods.

Can you guys help me out on what would be a good process in order to prep and paint a brand new toolbox?

I would appreciate it greatly.

Thanks!

 

[DIC]

aluminum ....

 

[maximus20895]

aluminum ....

I'm sorry. I wasn't thinking straight thanks for pointing that out.

 

[Cruzomatic]

I painted my craftsman boxes to match their super expensive Harley Davidson boxes. I just used rattle can and it was pretty simple. Primer and then the color....looks great. Don't have pics now, but I can add them later if you wish.

 

[JimVonBaden]

New paint, sand with 1000 grit wet and spray with rattle cans or roll with a foam roller.

 

[maximus20895]

Pictures would be great if you're willing to upload them.

I'm not sure how much or if I need to sand and if primer is necessary nor if I need a special type of primer.

 

[countryroad82]

Yes you do need to sand. Sand everything that is getting paint until there is no shine left. Primer is debatable. If you are wanting to go to a lighter color, you could use a grey or white sealer to help with coverage. If your wanting to go darker, heck I wouldn't fool with primer, just paint it. Check out some youtube vids on painting a car, same concept.

 

[holleyrj]

I'm not sure how much or if I need to sand and if primer is necessary nor if I need a special type of primer.

I use Rustoleum rattle cans for most of my small projects where an identical match is not that important. The self etching primers work well, sand between coats, and take your time. Doesn't really matter what kind of paint or methods you use to repaint, if your prep isn't up to it. A good scuff sanding and priming will ensure a good bond.
I'm new here, so I haven't any pics available of any of my projects, but they're coming

 

[holleyrj]

Yes you do need to sand. Sand everything that is getting paint until there is no shine left. Primer is debatable. If you are wanting to go to a lighter color, you could use a grey or white sealer to help with coverage. If your wanting to go darker, heck I wouldn't fool with primer, just paint it. Check out some youtube vids on painting a car, same concept.

 

[Cruzomatic]

I'll take the pics and post when I get home....at work now.

 

[maximus20895]

Thanks everyone I really appreciate it. I would assume 1000 grit would suffice?

Also, what would I need to make the paint last? Could I use some spray lacquer or something else?

 

[holleyrj]

Thanks everyone I really appreciate it. I would assume 1000 grit would suffice?

Also, what would I need to make the paint last? Could I use some spray lacquer or something else?

We're talking about a new box re-paint right ? I'd just use some 0000 steel wool (lightly) and then prime, sand with 400 / 600 grit between coats and finish. If you're using Rustoleum like I do, its hard to chip once it cures. No need for a lacquer or whatever. IMHO

 

[maximus20895]

What kinda odd primer do you use?

I'm assuming you mean sand between the primer and each coat of paint?

The paint I'm going to use it comes in an engine paint that resists heat so it should be good!

 

[holleyrj]

What kinda odd primer do you use?

I'm assuming you mean sand between the primer and each coat of paint?

The paint I'm going to use it comes in an engine paint that resists heat so it should be good!

Rustoleum self etching primer.
Sure, any enamel will work.

 

[JimVonBaden]

These new boxes are powder coated, so no primer is necessary. You do need to sand to take off the shine, or the paint may peal in places. What you paint with is up to you, but go quality.

 

[mojo_13]

I painted the drawer fronts of my HF rolling tool box. I scuffed with a green sos pad and then sprayed it with a self etching primer, then sprayed with an enamel. It has held up well so far and I like the look better than all red.

Here is a link to how mine turned out.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1010028&postcount=11

 

[Cruzomatic]

Hey Max......sorry I didn't post the pics of my painted boxes as promised. I scored some tickets to the Spurs game last night and did take the pics. Today for sure!!!

 

[mayday0017]

It doesn't cost hardly anything to step out of the rattle can game and into some quality paint... You can buy cheap single stage automotive paint that will be 100x better then rattle can. If you are going to buy rattle cans don't buy the junk at the big box stores, go to an automotive paint supplier and buy a quality product like SEM.

Rattle can scratches so easy, it doesn't bond as well, it doesn't last as long, the only exception to this I have found is automotive grade paint from paint suppliers selling products such as SEM. Personally I visit the paint supplier by my work regularly and buy their discount paint which is just paint someone didn't pick up or that didn't match the color well enough so it was scrapped. This allows me to have a stock of high quality paint for a relitivly low price.

 

[Joanders24]

I did this exact thing last week with my HF cabinets. My garage is a work in progress, but it will be complete soon enough. I scuffed all surfaces that were going to be painted with scotch-brite pads, then wiped down. Sprayed with rustoleum spray paint. Just take your time and do multiple light coats.
Good luck!

 

[joshs74nova]

Joanders24 that looks great! That's exactly what I've been debating on. Thank you for posting this.

 

[maximus20895]

I painted the drawer fronts of my HF rolling tool box. I scuffed with a green sos pad and then sprayed it with a self etching primer, then sprayed with an enamel. It has held up well so far and I like the look better than all red.

Here is a link to how mine turned out.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1010028&postcount=11

That look great! I might need to get some sos pads.

Hey Max......sorry I didn't post the pics of my painted boxes as promised. I scored some tickets to the Spurs game last night and did take the pics. Today for sure!!!

No problem! Thanks for the update!

It doesn't cost hardly anything to step out of the rattle can game and into some quality paint... You can buy cheap single stage automotive paint that will be 100x better then rattle can. If you are going to buy rattle cans don't buy the junk at the big box stores, go to an automotive paint supplier and buy a quality product like SEM.

Rattle can scratches so easy, it doesn't bond as well, it doesn't last as long, the only exception to this I have found is automotive grade paint from paint suppliers selling products such as SEM. Personally I visit the paint supplier by my work regularly and buy their discount paint which is just paint someone didn't pick up or that didn't match the color well enough so it was scrapped. This allows me to have a stock of high quality paint for a relitivly low price.

What kind of paint are you talking about?

I did this exact thing last week with my HF cabinets. My garage is a work in progress, but it will be complete soon enough. I scuffed all surfaces that were going to be painted with scotch-brite pads, then wiped down. Sprayed with rustoleum spray paint. Just take your time and do multiple light coats.
Good luck!

Awesome work!

I'm excited to get this going.


Did any one sand between coats? If so, when and what grit? I've never sanded between paint coats before.


Thanks everyone for your help!

 

[Joanders24]

I didn't sand in between coats, and my finish turned out perfect (at least to my standards). I know there are probably some that will swear that you need to, but I have had good success in the past painting this way. Would it be better to sand in between each coat? Sure, there are probably some benefits. For me it wasn't worth it to take the extra steps/time for this particular instance. Hope this helps!

 

[maximus20895]

Would you mind sharing the exact method you used?

I just want to get it right and I'd rather not mess up a $400 box!

Thanks!

 

[Joanders24]

1) scuff entire area to be painted with scotch brite pads (or similar, steel wool etc). Make sure you get a couple packs as I found that the paint starts to build up in them as you are etching the surface. You know you are doing it properly when you see the glossy sheen has been removed

2) wipe surfaces clean with clean cloth/wet cloth. Just try to remove as much of the paint residue that you scuffed off

3) wipe with a clean rag and acetone (or similar solvent/degreaser) to remove oils, etc.

4) spray paint. Nice light, even coats. Don't try to get it done in one shot. Take your time, it will get there and be a much better finish if you are patient

5) open a can of your favorite beer and enjoy your new toolbox

 

[maximus20895]

Seems simple enough!

I previously sanded the paint down with 220 grit. I'm not sure if I should continue doing that or scotch brite pads or if it even matters.

Is the paint pretty smooth when you finished? What kind of paint did you use?

Sorry for all the questions, I tend do that that!

I really appreciate taking the time to give me a step by step!

 

[WarrenJ]

Like that shade of Blue.

 

[NUTTSGT]

This was a thread I did a few years back when I painted my box.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=68893


I wet sanded the outside with 400 and the inside with 320.

 

[csp]

What kind of paint are you talking about?

It says right in the part you quoted, single stage automotive paint. Google it if you don't know what that means. It's referring to paint for cars that isn't a color coat/clear coat system. Auto paint supply houses have it as well as some better auto parts stores like NAPA and CarQuest.

 

[blklegend]

Sorry to jump onto your thread maximus, but didnt think a new thread would be necessary. My question to the guys here, is what about the old HF 44" with the textured red surface?

 

[67carl]

I did this exact thing last week with my HF cabinets. My garage is a work in progress, but it will be complete soon enough. I scuffed all surfaces that were going to be painted with scotch-brite pads, then wiped down. Sprayed with rustoleum spray paint. Just take your time and do multiple light coats.
Good luck!

Wow! That looks fantastic. I was happy with my red box but after seeing how awesome yours turned out I am feeling the need to paint them just to be different. Great, another project on the list!

I didn't see anyone else ask this question - did you take the drawers out and paint the inside as well?

 

[Joanders24]

The finish is very smooth. As far as i can tell it is as smooth as the original finish. I used the rustoleum 2x cover paint. I think the color was "deep blue" or something like that. I have found the coverage and finish on this brand to be excellent.

 

[Joanders24]

I took the drawers out only to paint the inside edge of the toolbox that can be seen when the drawers are opened/closed. I did not paint all the way inside. Same goes for the sides/back of the boxes, I didn't paint them since they are completely covered by my workbench structure.

 

[Cruzomatic]

Here ya go Max.


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[Cruzomatic]

Couple more


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[southalabama]

Hmmm. I've got a mix match of craftsman cabinets. They range from black/red, gray, gray/black and all red. After reviewing this thread and looking at the pics gonna have to add painting the boxes to the long list of things to do.

 

[mojo_13]

1) scuff entire area to be painted with scotch brite pads (or similar, steel wool etc). Make sure you get a couple packs as I found that the paint starts to build up in them as you are etching the surface. You know you are doing it properly when you see the glossy sheen has been removed

2) wipe surfaces clean with clean cloth/wet cloth. Just try to remove as much of the paint residue that you scuffed off

3) wipe with a clean rag and acetone (or similar solvent/degreaser) to remove oils, etc.

4) spray paint. Nice light, even coats. Don't try to get it done in one shot. Take your time, it will get there and be a much better finish if you are patient

5) open a can of your favorite beer and enjoy your new toolbox

This is how I did mine only I used a self etching primer first and then an enamel after. I also only did the fronts, if you open the drawers you can still see the red but it was already together and I didn't want to full take it apart.

 

[Joanders24]

Same here, you can see the red on the drawer sides when you open the drawers. I figure that only lasts for about 6 seconds when I am grabbing my tool...and then quickly shut, not a huge deal to me.

I entertained using some self-etching primer but from what I could tell that is most beneficial for bare metal preparation. Since I was working on an already-painted surface that had been properly prepped, I figured I could go straight to my top coat. That being said, I think using self-etching primer will still give you great results on the top coat adhesion.

 

[vpogv]

Sorry, but 1000 grit won't do anything. Sand with 220 or 400, clean then paint. Scotch brite would work as well but it's a preference thing. Foam roller and your choice of paint will get you a nice smooth coat, spray or other roller for different texture.

 

[ScurvyPete]

I don't know if this has been said already, but if you decide to go the roller route instead of spraying, be sure to use the "pro" quality rollers that don't have the large pores. They will roll the paint on much more evenly and cut down greatly on the bubbles. That being said, you'll also want to roll it on in really thin coats.

Edit: I believe the term I was looking for would be "high density" or "closed cell" roller

 

[maximus20895]

Here ya go Max.


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Thanks! It looks really good! I'm impressed!

Sorry, but 1000 grit won't do anything. Sand with 220 or 400, clean then paint. Scotch brite would work as well but it's a preference thing. Foam roller and your choice of paint will get you a nice smooth coat, spray or other roller for different texture.

What about steel wool? I have some of that laying around.

I don't know if this has been said already, but if you decide to go the roller route instead of spraying, be sure to use the "pro" quality rollers that don't have the large pores. They will roll the paint on much more evenly and cut down greatly on the bubbles. That being said, you'll also want to roll it on in really thin coats.

Edit: I believe the term I was looking for would be "high density" or "closed cell" roller

I was not going to use a roller, but I appreciate your comment. I will definitely keep that in mind for future projects!


As of right now, the green I am wanting to paint it isn't really that glossy, I considered using a clear to make it glossy, but it just didn't feel smooth this could be due to it being old or just the nature of the clear paint. Time to experiment more to get the right look!

Thanks again everyone for your comments!