I have been looking to buy my first real box and up until the past few days, was set on a 56" roll cab. I started to think about the amount that could be stored in a 56" and have started thinking I may be better off saving a bit more and getting something like a KRA2432 (classic 96). Let me hear some opinions on 56" vs 72". Garage space is not a issue, and I am pretty set on just a roll cab with work top to use as a bench for small things, so please don't say "get a top and bottom". Even though there is a show your toolbox thread, and I have read every page, post some pics if you have a 56" or 72". and how much you have stuffed in it.
Toolbox size concerns
- Thread starter m_hatcher
- Start date
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Whether it is a 56" or a 72 is not the question nor the answer.
Most box Mfg/Sellers also push Cubic Inches, but we are not talking about engines here.
IMO look at the drawers and how many there are, and calculate if need be how many square inches of drawer space you are buying. A drawer that is 6-8" deep is usually simply wasting your space. Think about how high the things you want to store actually need, and don't waste space with unneeded drawer volume....
Most box Mfg/Sellers also push Cubic Inches, but we are not talking about engines here.
IMO look at the drawers and how many there are, and calculate if need be how many square inches of drawer space you are buying. A drawer that is 6-8" deep is usually simply wasting your space. Think about how high the things you want to store actually need, and don't waste space with unneeded drawer volume....
Murphy4570
Well-known member
I agree with that. Usually only the top most drawer is that tall, anything over 4-5" is a waste of space, unless you are a heavy line mechanic.
Also keep in mind drawer configuration. There are some designs that are more efficient than others.
el tanque prohibido
Banned
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2012
- Messages
- 470
The deep drawers are for storing test equipment that's kept in blow moulded plastic cases. Unless you have a lot of plastic cases, you're better off having more thinner drawers.
Super Sport
Well-known member
As is often said on here, you can never go too big! If you honestly see yourself needing the space of a 72" then you should probably keep looking. Although, HF boxes hold their value quite well so if you bought one and outgrew it you should get most of your investment back.
Fedwrench
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Bigger is not always better. Cubic inches is great if you're loading your tool box drawers with rice or beans but, odd shaped tools or storage cases eat up cubic inches quickly. However, you need to look at how you like to store your tools. Is there a drawer deep enoough to hold your 1/2 drive impact sockets upright on a rail? are there drawers deep enough to stand your wrenches up in rails on their edges? Pry bars and other long tools? Test equipment? Laptop power and security?
Mobility is also important to consider, not just moving the box but, how hard would it be to move it switching jobs or moving homes?
I think if I had to do it over again, I would opt for a 46 inch or so wide tool cart that was at least 24 inches deep. Or perhaps simply a tool cart with 7 drawers and a deep top till like Cornwell's , and add two wallockers for plastic cases, test equipment, and other specialty tools not used daily.
Regardless of what size you choose, you'll outgrow it eventually.
Mobility is also important to consider, not just moving the box but, how hard would it be to move it switching jobs or moving homes?
I think if I had to do it over again, I would opt for a 46 inch or so wide tool cart that was at least 24 inches deep. Or perhaps simply a tool cart with 7 drawers and a deep top till like Cornwell's , and add two wallockers for plastic cases, test equipment, and other specialty tools not used daily.
Regardless of what size you choose, you'll outgrow it eventually.
Givl Reggin
Banned
I have a standard 3-piece 26" wide Craftsman bottom box, with an intermediate and a top unit to match.
Looking at other's larger boxes I think I have as much as or more in my 26" box than they do in their big box... space management is key.
The bottom 3 drawers are extra deep so I made an insert drawer that hangs on the top lip to better utilize the space. The insert drawer can be easily taken out or slid to the front or back to gain access to the drawer bottom.
Pictures are going from top to bottom;
At this point downwards, just about everything you see is Craftsman brand, the drawer liner is an open weave mat that keeps everything in place nicely;
Top drawer of intermediate box;
Top drawer of bottom box, socket rails are Craftsman, black for inch. gray for metric;
Insert box to hold crowfeet & Whitworth;
Insert box with 3/8" impacts;
Insert box for automotive tools;
Looking at other's larger boxes I think I have as much as or more in my 26" box than they do in their big box... space management is key.
The bottom 3 drawers are extra deep so I made an insert drawer that hangs on the top lip to better utilize the space. The insert drawer can be easily taken out or slid to the front or back to gain access to the drawer bottom.
Pictures are going from top to bottom;
At this point downwards, just about everything you see is Craftsman brand, the drawer liner is an open weave mat that keeps everything in place nicely;
Top drawer of intermediate box;
Top drawer of bottom box, socket rails are Craftsman, black for inch. gray for metric;
Insert box to hold crowfeet & Whitworth;
Insert box with 3/8" impacts;
Insert box for automotive tools;
earlthegoat2
Well-known member
I think you will be a happier person if you do the Givl Reggin approach above. Not saying you need a 26" roll cab with an intermediate and a top box but....I think the smaller of a box you can get by with the better.
The best boxes in my opinion have only a few deep drawers and very many shallow ones. I would like to have nearly 30% of my cubic inches to be 2" drawers. 30% be 3" and the rest maybe 4-5" Unfortunately these are also the boxes companies market as their most expensive. Think Snap On Epiq or KRL. For some reason they cannot use the same hardware they use to make the drawer slides in their less expensive boxes to make those same less expensive boxes with more shallow drawers at a modest price increase. Instead you have to upgrade to an Epiq. Way to go.
Currently I am searching for a 40"-50" roll cab to be my primary work box. Just the roll cab mind you. The bottom drawer on a classic 60 can hold quite a few of those cased tools (or in my case, golf balls)
The trend is to just buy bigger and hope you grow into it. The truth is you dont need to grow into it at all. You only need to come up with better storage solutions. It is very important to figure out your right size of box because you can save thousands of dollars by buying the right size box the first time and not just "get the bigger one"
The best boxes in my opinion have only a few deep drawers and very many shallow ones. I would like to have nearly 30% of my cubic inches to be 2" drawers. 30% be 3" and the rest maybe 4-5" Unfortunately these are also the boxes companies market as their most expensive. Think Snap On Epiq or KRL. For some reason they cannot use the same hardware they use to make the drawer slides in their less expensive boxes to make those same less expensive boxes with more shallow drawers at a modest price increase. Instead you have to upgrade to an Epiq. Way to go.
Currently I am searching for a 40"-50" roll cab to be my primary work box. Just the roll cab mind you. The bottom drawer on a classic 60 can hold quite a few of those cased tools (or in my case, golf balls)
The trend is to just buy bigger and hope you grow into it. The truth is you dont need to grow into it at all. You only need to come up with better storage solutions. It is very important to figure out your right size of box because you can save thousands of dollars by buying the right size box the first time and not just "get the bigger one"
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