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Tooling (Re)Organization

fartymarty

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You want to try buy that stuff here in Australia. An 8x4 sheet of 3/4" is $185!

I look at you guys with envy...

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Is that before or after the $ conversion?

currently $185 AUD = $123.81 USD which if we are still talking about the real Baltic Birch isn't too bad when you compare a 4x8 sheet to a 5x5 sheet. .....or
are we doing the apple and orange thing here and I wasn't told?
 
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Heifer Boy

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Is that before or after the $ conversion?



currently $185 AUD = $123.81 USD which if we are still talking about the real Baltic Birch isn't too bad when you compare a 4x8 sheet to a 5x5 sheet. .....or

are we doing the apple and orange thing here and I wasn't told?
Yes AUD. A cheap CD sheet from Bunnings (Lowes or Home Depot equivalent) is about AUD$79 and marine ply about AUD$177.

How does that compare?

I always thought your ply was much cheaper than here.

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icecactus

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No, it isn’t cheap,you’re right. Think the 3/4 x 5x 5 is about $75 per sheet which is about $8 - $10 more per sheet than unfinished. I like finished cabinets inside and out so it’s much easier to justify the additional spend to have no finish work.

I have purchased pre-finished ply at Home Depot for about half as much but it was half the ply’s and 1/4 the density. For cabinets that need to hold significant weight and last a lifetime, there’s no comparison to Baltic birch and to me, worth the additional cost.

Every one of these cabinets go with me if I move. They’re mine and not a feature of the house so I view the material as a possession I’ll have forever and not a disposable upgrade.

This right here!

Once I tried using BB I no longer want to use anything else. The stuff at the big box stores is garbage. It twists, it moves, theres voids in all the right places so your screws wont hold etc...The only way I will use it is if what I am making is something that I know im going to throw away. Then I feel like I am wasting the precious BB and wont use it. But I curse every moment I am working with it. :lol_hitti
 

fartymarty

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Yes AUD. A cheap CD sheet from Bunnings (Lowes or Home Depot equivalent) is about AUD$79 and marine ply about AUD$177.

How does that compare?

I always thought your ply was much cheaper than here.

I think you win then...or lose actually. I thought we were talking about the good birch stuff. I don't know about CD plywood, but BC here is $31.18 USD at Home Depot for a 4' X 8' X 23/32" sheet. That would be about $46.74 AUD for roughly a 1300mm X 2440mm x 18 mm equivalent depending on my math of course. :headscrat
 

fartymarty

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This right here!

Once I tried using BB I no longer want to use anything else. The stuff at the big box stores is garbage. It twists, it moves, theres voids in all the right places so your screws wont hold etc...The only way I will use it is if what I am making is something that I know im going to throw away. Then I feel like I am wasting the precious BB and wont use it. But I curse every moment I am working with it. :lol_hitti

Maybe if we ask nice enough {Pretty birch please?.. with top quality pre-finish on it?) Someone that uses this stuff quite a bit would start a Birch plywood only thread just about the quality stuff and where to get it and we could use that thread to compare sources and prices and quality from around the country or even the world since we are an international group sorta. Pretty Birch please?..with luxurious satin pre-finish?
 

fartymarty

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Someone was looking at all the beautiful pictures and not doing the required reading?:lol_hitti

Great work lil' scorp' !

You know what's worse... I remember reading that now :confused:

Feel free to safely ignore me :)

Nah, wouldn't ignore you. You might make another perfectly human mistake that I could call you out on. :lol_hitti Not that I ever make any. (pinocchio emoticon goes here)

..anyway, lilscorp' a question about those shelves...you didn't mention pre-drilling pin holes, so I assume that your cabinets are just screwed and domino-ed per usual and that once you decide how to go you are going to disassemble them and ...what?..daddo them or domino and screw them in place or still haven't decided ..or?
-----------------------------------
I should have said something earlier lilscorpion, but I really love how you made the band saw work with that aluminum plate that you can drop in various holes for different applications. I'm definitely stealing that idea so I can either have the saw hanging on the wall on a small platform and available for quick little cuts or dropping it into my router table plate opening for more production type cutting projects. Very well done! :thumbup:
 
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lilscorpion

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..anyway, lilscorp' a question about those shelves...you didn't mention pre-drilling pin holes, so I assume that your cabinets are just screwed and domino-ed per usual and that once you decide how to go you are going to disassemble them and ...what?..daddo them or domino and screw them in place or still haven't decided ..or?

-----------------------------------


Sigh...since you asked - I normally domino as my joinery method and then counter sink and screw. This is a completely temporary but extremely strong way to assemble cabinets. I like temporary because I can always disassemble and modify down the road if my layout changes - e.g. I kind and the new garage has a different layout. Ghat being said, this project, on machining the first cabinet (like three dominos in), I managed to break off one of the internal pins on the twist-loc inside my domino. Like F%#K!!

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After a Saturday if driving and calling all over Denver, I accepted that the only place to get the part is Festool USA direct...Monday.

Now there was a time where I used to build cabinets without a Domino but it was a while ago and reverting for an entire project is like having to ride a donkey 2 miles to the grocery store through a blizzard wearing no pants. Yeah, stone ages ****.

So this time I got by. I hand fit all parts with a narrow crown stapler and then drill and screw. The narrrow crowns aren’t permanent but more permanent than a domino down the road.

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None of the surfaces end up with visible staples but they are obvious.

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Shelf pins are added where a shelf needs to be while they’re hung. I could use the LR 32 system to pre-machine but I’ve learned that I rarely move the shelves over time. When I do holes are added as needed with the fixture. Easy enough and saves a heap of time.
 

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lilscorpion

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I should have said something earlier lilscorpion, but I really love how you made the band saw work with that aluminum plate that you can drop in various holes for different applications. I'm definitely stealing that idea so I can either have the saw hanging on the wall on a small platform and available for quick little cuts or dropping it into my router table plate opening for more production type cutting projects. Very well done! :thumbup:


Thanks, it’s appreciated and steal away. I’m a sharer, it’s why I’m here. I really like the small bandsaw hanging there when needed. It takes up so little space. Doesn’t have great throat depth but for about 80% of what I do, it works great.

Speaking of sharing, I’ve just recently learned that someone has taken a few of my ideas from back in 2010 and decided to try to monetize them...another form of flattery I suppose. If he’s watching now (and I bet he is), thanks for subscribing, more ideas to come. :)
 

fartymarty

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Sigh...since you asked - ..... being said, this project, on machining the first cabinet (like three dominos in), I managed to break off one of the internal pins on the twist-loc inside my domino. Like F%#K!!

Well **** :(, I try to ask what I think is a mildly intelligent question and I end up being a Debbie Downer. Sorry to cause you to share and relive that all. Next time just say you prefer to drill the shelf pin holes after it's up. Which is true apparently, even if it had been assembled with dominoes as originally planned.
 

Fractoggen

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Wow this is quite informative, you went down to the size, quality and their service. This would render a lot of people's future judgement on the place.
 
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lilscorpion

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Well **** :(, I try to ask what I think is a mildly intelligent question and I end up being a Debbie Downer. Sorry to cause you to share and relive that all. Next time just say you prefer to drill the shelf pin holes after it's up. Which is true apparently, even if it had been assembled with dominoes as originally planned.


Meh, I find humor in it actually. It was actually quite nice building the way I used to. Reminded me that I don’t really need fancy tools. I enjoy the process.
 

Heifer Boy

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I think you win then...or lose actually. I thought we were talking about the good birch stuff. I don't know about CD plywood, but BC here is $31.18 USD at Home Depot for a 4' X 8' X 23/32" sheet. That would be about $46.74 AUD for roughly a 1300mm X 2440mm x 18 mm equivalent depending on my math of course. :headscrat
Sorry to come back late to this but because of the costs here it makes it harder for us to experiment as much as you guys. If we get a design or plan a bit wrong it can be many hundreds of dollars down the drain so you hesitate a bit sometimes.

I built a camper a while back and it took a huge amount of pre-planning because I couldn't afford to make it up as I went along. Planning is good but so is winging it sometimes.


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lilscorpion

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Sorry to come back late to this but because of the costs here it makes it harder for us to experiment as much as you guys. If we get a design or plan a bit wrong it can be many hundreds of dollars down the drain so you hesitate a bit sometimes.

I built a camper a while back and it took a huge amount of pre-planning because I couldn't afford to make it up as I went along. Planning is good but so is winging it sometimes.


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I hear you. I tend to wing it but it can be costly. If I plan I can make better use of the sheets I have. Sometimes though, you just have to assume that waste is a part of the process as long as you accomplish the goal. Big picture for me is optimizing the space I have. I’d love to do it the most cost effective way but if I end up spending $1k more because I have to fumble through things a bit to get to the ideal setup, so be it.
 
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lilscorpion

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Got more done on the shelving today. Emptied the shelving over the bench and removed the floating shelves.

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Anytime you take everything off of the shelves and pile it up I’m available space, the shop just becomes a huge mess. Can’t avoid it.

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Built some cabinets and this little organizer which gives me a place to store < 18” and 18” - 36” material like wood, aluminum, rod, tubing, etc.

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And above I can store anything 4 - 9’ in length. Out of the way until I’m ready for it during a project. Right now there’s a bunch of S4S maple and some inset LED channel/extrusions.

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Here’s what makes it work. I use this PVC material in a few sizes. The round shape makes the material settle to the bottom so it’s easier to load up.

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I encase it in wood using 3/4” thick on the back so I can attach it to the wall.

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After it’s assembled, I slide in the full length PVC.

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Built another shelving unit specifically for the pocket hole machine, the tile saw, and the smaller dust collector. Got them Installed and loaded up.

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Shifted gears and began to cut the shelves out for all of the cabinets. I use 1/2-inch pre-finished Baltic birch. The pre-finished helps let the containers slide just enough and allows the shelves to be cleaned easily. This size shelf is used in 90% of my cabinets in the shop so I keep a shelf template so they’re easy to cut. I keep them square for the bins and route out the shelf if I plan to keep a sustainer on it. All of these shelves will be for bins so I can go fairly quickly.

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I’d been using a wood fixture to drill the shelf dowels for years but the constant usage caused the holes to wobble out and it was starting to lose accuracy. This is a much better version I made out of aluminum and drill guides.

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A little spaced over the box works to get the shelf just over the top with enough room to get it in and out easily.

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After drilling the holes, the shelf easily slides in and is screwed into place.

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This cabinet is perfect for three 8-inch tall bins stacked. Dumb luck, not planned.

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When I don’t fully plan out a project this is what happens. I have about a hundred shelves to install and only NINE shelving feet. Needless to say, I ran out immediately after starting which feels anti-climatic. Guess I gotta order some more.

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zanyad

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I’d been using a wood fixture to drill the shelf dowels for years but the constant usage caused the holes to wobble out and it was starting to lose accuracy. This is a much better version I made out of aluminum and drill guides.

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After drilling the holes, the shelf easily slides in and is screwed into place.

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When I don’t fully plan out a project this is what happens. I have about a hundred shelves to install and only NINE shelving feet. Needless to say, I ran out immediately after starting which feels anti-climatic. Guess I gotta order some more.

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Looks like a very nice system. Can you share what kind of shelf support you use for these?
 

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lilscorpion

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This is the shelf support, it’s a 1/4-inch L-shelf pin. All of the weight is on only 4 of these per shelf.

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zanyad

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This is the shelf support, it’s a 1/4-inch L-shelf pin. All of the weight is on only 4 of these per shelf.

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Thank you. I thought you were using something more exotic (like your systainers :bounce:)
 

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lilscorpion

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Seem to have much time around the house.. I’m ready to start organizing what goes on/in all the shelves I’ve been building. A few years back I made an organizer for my paint cups that utilized drawer slides and wood/dowel stand-offs to keep them where I want them.

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I’ve really liked how it works so I’ve decided to make additional organizers for those things which I use and need to access frequently. Since HDPE/Starboard machines really easily, I decided to use it to make all of the organizers and, instead of wood dowels for the stand-offs, I found these 1/4” aluminum threaded units I’ll give a try. I’m using 3/4-inch baltic birch as my fixture trays which allow me to swap in and out rough pieces and machine them as needed. Each blank is first drilled for mounting holes on the vise and then attached to the fixture board so the profile (and inner shapes) can be cut.

First organizer will be for my pressure washer stuff - foam cannons, soap bottles, nozzles, etc.

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I’m able to cut fairly quickly. Full depth of cut (about 1/2 inch) and 3k rpm. I don’t run at excessive feed rates though as the lateral pressure on the material can be too much for the screws which affix the part to the fixture plate. I’ve been using the shop vac “dust collection” method for years and it works especially well on HDPE.

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With the piece done, I then take it to the bench and use a hand router to break the edge. Nothing fancy, just a subtle break.

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Each organizer is made of multiple layers so I have to think about how I want everything to come together in advance. The above piece is a lateral support for the foam cannon guns I have. Next is the main board which has the same profile for the soap cannons as well as provisions for the nozzles.

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Skipping a bit ahead to test fit. The rack on the left can support 2 foam cannons which are fairly top heavy. The tall piece is spaced just right to prevent them from falling over. The yellow rack is for squeeze bottles we put our various soaps in and the right black rack is for a stubby pressure washer gun. During the test fit I learned that the yellow rack has a slight interference with the adjoining racks. All adjoining plates will need to be clearance by 3/16-inch.

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Fortunately all of the pieces are the same length (or depth in relationship to the drawer assembly) so it was easy to put them back on the fixture and clearance them one at a time. If you look down I in the hold you can see the slight back-cut.

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Re-assembled and ready to be loaded up.

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Here’s how the foam cannon assembly works. At the very bottom is a piece that was cut only 3/8-inch deep as to create a pocket to collect water. This will allow us to not worry about damaging the wood drawer base if we don’t totally dry it before we putting it away. The cannon nozzle is most of the weight so it wants to tip forward making it want to rest against the upper support.

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We have 2…not because we really needed 2, but because we’ve sometime washed multiple vehicles at a time…or used multiple foam cycles on a single car. The yellow rack is now (mostly) full of the soaps we use. The two currently loaded are Chemical Guys Honeydew and Meguiar’s Gold Class. I tend to use the Honeydew for the pre-wash and Gold Class for the 2 bucket wash. The 4 additional slots behind will be used for cheaper foams/wash one with wax and one just to quick-wash during the winter-is days.

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Here’s the stubby gun holder. Same principle is used with a lower plate not cut all the way through so water has a place to drain, collect if need be.

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The nozzles loaded up and the drawer is ready for service. Much more organized.

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Having more ideas now...thanks for following along.
 

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icecactus

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Fine job...every time i come to this thread i want to buy a CNC router to do stuff like this.
 
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lilscorpion

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That has turned out freakin' awesome Matt.

:bowdown::bowdown:

Thanks! Am super happy at how organized it keeps things. Those stupid foam cannons don’t stand up right on their own so before the rack, they took up most of the space and it wasn’t easy to get them off the shelf. Now I can grab anything in one motion.

Fine job...every time i come to this thread i want to buy a CNC router to do stuff like this.


Thank yuh. I’d love to have the lager footprint if a CNC router table too (even a 2’x 2’). Can’t even imagine setting up a whole sheet and cutting it all at once. The way I do it now is very one-off in nature sometimes performing one op at a time to make an entire piece. Additional ones ate easy tho.
 
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lilscorpion

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Alright, another one - this is a spray bottle organizer
For cleaning supplies.

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Now I’m needing a spray bottle every time something needs to be disinfected before bringing it into the house.

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nitroracer20

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As always, love your projects and work.

That HDPE is a great touch.

How do you like the chemical guys sprayer? Ive always eyed them up - even the DIY versions
 
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lilscorpion

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Your creative organization skills are out of this world amazing!!! I spent hours last night going through many of your projects! Do you organize everything in the house the same way? [emoji1]

Thanks. Over the years I’ve found hyper-organization extremely therapeutic and stimulating. A happy place if you will.

Yep, many of the ideas I come up with in the garage get incorporated in the house. Organizers like these will be made for a hand full of locations like under the kitchen sink, in bathroom drawers, and in our pantry. All of those will be made out of white HDPE though.

As always, love your projects and work.

That HDPE is a great touch.

How do you like the chemical guys sprayer? Ive always eyed them up - even the DIY versions


I love machining HDPE. Much of these organizers are made out of scrap but I’m having so much fun I think I’ll order a few more sheets. [emoji41]

After much research I didn’t end up getting the Chemicals Guys foam cannon. The two shown are made by MATCC and cost about half as much ($32 vs $60). I’ve used these for about a year now and I can’t imagine needing anymore foam than these create.

Thanks for following along!
 

sakurama

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Thanks. Over the years I’ve found hyper-organization extremely therapeutic and stimulating. A happy place if you will.

You have been an inspiration for years now. I'm now taking this time at home to try to instill my shop with a tiny bit of the organization that you've brought. I hope that I can someday incorporate some CNC into my work flow but for now I'm going to just keep drawing inspiration here.

Thanks Matt!

Gregor
 
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lilscorpion

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You have been an inspiration for years now. I'm now taking this time at home to try to instill my shop with a tiny bit of the organization that you've brought. I hope that I can someday incorporate some CNC into my work flow but for now I'm going to just keep drawing inspiration here.



Thanks Matt!



Gregor


Thanks Gregor, much appreciated. That collet rack is really nice and fits so well in its place. I’ve always been partial to the wood look too. Reminds me of the job shops i hung out in when I was learning to machine. Those shops were frugal in design as compared to the big CNC shops but man could those guys build complicated stuff with a manual Bridgeport!!!

Maybe you need to do some “shop-time” videos on your channel. You’ve shared so many little tips and tricks on the bike build, kinda curious as to your wood fan hacks. You coulda totally done a
vid on the material rack modification and collet rack build...don’t replace to bike build vids though, those are hella awesome.

Matt
 

jake28

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[mention]lilscorpion [/mention]
A small favor from another fan: would you do a quick review of how you apply the laminate to ply?
- contact cement, spray adhesive, some other manic?
- are you applying to pre-finished ply, or non-finished?

Cheers,
Jake
 

cycle61

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Signed up for GarageJournal a couple days ago and now have spent the last two nights working through this masterpiece. Amazing work! Wife has been reading over my shoulder a bit, loves what she's seeing, and I have full permission to go nuts on our garage.
 
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lilscorpion

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[mention]lilscorpion [/mention]
A small favor from another fan: would you do a quick review of how you apply the laminate to ply?
- contact cement, spray adhesive, some other manic?
- are you applying to pre-finished ply, or non-finished?

Cheers,
Jake


Jake - happy to:

The adhesive I use is a contact cement made for laminate. I’ve used Dap’s Weldwood Comtsft Cement (DAP 0072) and Wilsonart 600 with equal success. They both come in gallon or quart sizes I think. For large surfaces I roll it on with a mini-sponge roller and wait the advertised setup time before dropping on the laminate. No magic. For small pieces, I use a 3m aerosol product. It works the same but is much less involved and faster.

Material: Lamination works best when it has something to grip on like bare plywood, particle board, MDF, etc. Any surface that already has a finish on it, like the pre-finished Baltic birch I use for cabinet making, wouldn’t work well. In the rare case I’ve had to use pre-finished, I sand through the finish before I laminate it.

I have a surface I need to laminate tomorrow (a corona virus use my shop as an office because my wife is gonna kill me desk). I’ll post up the step by step. It’s a fast easy way to have a really nice and durable work surface for not a lot of money.

~ Matt
 
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lilscorpion

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Signed up for GarageJournal a couple days ago and now have spent the last two nights working through this masterpiece. Amazing work! Wife has been reading over my shoulder a bit, loves what she's seeing, and I have full permission to go nuts on our garage.


Welcome to the thread and thank you! Glad to hear your wife is onboard. Having my wife onboard was key to making what I’ve done, and continue to do, possible. If you feel like sharing your build progress, start a thread. I enjoy seeing what others come up with.
 

Dusty.Tools

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Jake - happy to:

The adhesive I use is a contact cement made for laminate. I’ve used Dap’s Weldwood Comtsft Cement (DAP 0072) and Wilsonart 600 with equal success. They both come in gallon or quart sizes I think. For large surfaces I roll it on with a mini-sponge roller and wait the advertised setup time before dropping on the laminate. No magic. For small pieces, I use a 3m aerosol product. It works the same but is much less involved and faster.

Material: Lamination works best when it has something to grip on like bare plywood, particle board, MDF, etc. Any surface that already has a finish on it, like the pre-finished Baltic birch I use for cabinet making, wouldn’t work well. In the rare case I’ve had to use pre-finished, I sand through the finish before I laminate it.

I have a surface I need to laminate tomorrow (a corona virus use my shop as an office because my wife is gonna kill me desk). I’ll post up the step by step. It’s a fast easy way to have a really nice and durable work surface for not a lot of money.

~ Matt


If you are laminating MDF I was recommended to do two coats on the MDF, with 20 min dry time in between.

I did some a few years ago with one coat and ‘cold’ wood (it should be +65F for 24h) and the laminate peeled off a week later!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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lilscorpion

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If you are laminating MDF I was recommended to do two coats on the MDF, with 20 min dry time in between.

I did some a few years ago with one coat and ‘cold’ wood (it should be +65F for 24h) and the laminate peeled off a week later!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Ah yes, agreed. Missed those two elements because my shop is always warmer than 65 and I don’t like/use MDF. Completely right on both account - temperature and how absorbent the material is.
 

jake28

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[mention]lilscorpion [/mention] thank you so much. I’m going to experiment with doing some laminate-clad door fronts for the cabinets you’ve inspired me to build
 

cycle61

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Welcome to the thread and thank you! Glad to hear your wife is onboard. Having my wife onboard was key to making what I’ve done, and continue to do, possible. If you feel like sharing your build progress, start a thread. I enjoy seeing what others come up with.

Will do! My dad is a now-retired master marine carpenter, he spent a career doing everything from hull repairs on the Navy's wooden minesweepers to finish cabinetry on $100 million megayachts.

I'm an electrician by trade and a hack carpenter/mechanic, but it's fun learning. :)
 
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lilscorpion

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[mention]lilscorpion [/mention] thank you so much. I’m going to experiment with doing some laminate-clad door fronts for the cabinets you’ve inspired me to build


Awesome, can’t wait to see them.

Oh and black laminate kinda *****. It’s easy to got so I used it for the drawer fronts on my cabinets but they never look clean even after they clean them. If I were to pick again, I’d probably go with something lighter.
 

Jdsmith

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...Oh and black laminate kinda *****. It’s easy to got so I used it for the drawer fronts on my cabinets but they never look clean even after they clean them. If I were to pick again, I’d probably go with something lighter.

Hmm, I was about to buy some black laminate for the top of a Ron Paulk chop saw bench. Toledo Plywood has white and black in stock, I haven't asked how much more costly other colors are. What do you recommend that won't show a lot of wear? White seems like not a very good idea either.



Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 
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lilscorpion

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Hmm, I was about to buy some black laminate for the top of a Ron Paulk chop saw bench. Toledo Plywood has white and black in stock, I haven't asked how much more costly other colors are. What do you recommend that won't show a lot of wear? White seems like not a very good idea either.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk


Honestly I like black and (like you) it’s readily available (in stock) and that’s why I used it. Black shoes scratches and dust but it does look better long term than white. To me it’s a durable work surface than looks nice even after it’s abused. Since that what’s important, I used why I could get.

If I picked any color for the next bench I wonder if a lighter tone might hide scratches better. The granite look may work well but is **** ugly. Before this black I had a medium blue and it was ok. Maybe a tad better at hiding scratches. A wood grain could be good as long as it’s not glossy. Almost needs to be satin or matte.

Some might argue it’s a damn bench. Pick any laminate color and use the **** out of it...
 
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lilscorpion

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Played a little more with the HDPE organizers. This time it’s spray paint racks.

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No more will I be digging in the back of a shelf looking to see what I have.

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Shelving is spaced correctly for the tall or the short cans. This g round I used 1/4” thick HDPE sheet and it worked equally as well which is awesome because it’s about 60% the cost.

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