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Tooling up for Jap motor cycles

-Z-

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Apr 16, 2009
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UK
I’m looking at dismantling motor cycles for parts, as a new business venture (in the UK). Now what fasteners to expect?

Hex nuts/bolts obviously, Torx T20/25/27/30 and Hex 3/4/5/6mm. Any others I need I might regularly run into?

I’m looking at getting one of those 171 piece socket sets, which has just about every fastener solution, or if I knew better what to expect, I could pick-n-choose a smaller but better quality kit.
 
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Big Pete

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Jul 7, 2009
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new stuff or old stuff? If it's old stuff you are going to need a hot wrench, otherwise most of it will be covered by one of the Halfords pro sets. You will prolly want some impact drivers (power and hand) and some big sizes for sprocket /rear spindle nuts.
 

Westly

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8-19mm will take care of 90% of it. Get larger sockets as needed 27mm, 36mm, etc. Won't need a lot of those. A hand impact driver that you hit with a hammer will let you remove some phillips screws instead of stripping the heads. A 1/2" electric impact will be useful for some things. Buy stuff as you need it. It will all be easy to get just up the street except maybe the hand impact driver. If you sell the carbs complete you won't have to take those apart.
 

Deskmechanic

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You don't need many tools for bikes, even newer ones. Jap bikes use bunches of 8/10/12/14/17 mm bolts, as well as 4/5/6/8mm hex head bolts. A few torx depending on the year. You could get one of those T-handle wrench sets instead of sockets.

Might want a chain breaker to get chains off. And a couple of large impact sockets for axle nuts and sprocket nuts.
 

Westly

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I forgot the Allen head bolts. One of those metric sets that fold into the handle is good enough. 5mm is real common.

I haven't found anything finicky enough for JIS drivers except inside carbs. Don't take carbs apart untill you get a LOT more experience or you'll just ruin them.
 

APEowner

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The big must have is an impact driver. The kind you whack with a big hammer. When I was a motorcycle tech in the 80s I wore out one of those a year I used it so often.
 

2oolhound

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I presume you are referring to Japanese motorcycles. The term "Jap Motorcycle" is a little confusing these days. Jap bikes were 1st made in England in the very early 1900's. The engines were around for another 50 years. "Metric" is a more modern term for Japanese motorcycles these days but it also encompasses european motorcycles too. Metric is the term we use in North America to represent Japanese bikes. Then there are Harley (SAE) and British Bikes (usually Whitworth and Whitworth/SAE thread form).

Here is a new Jap bike:

http://thekneeslider.com/j-a-prestwich-motorcycle/

Regarding your question though, an important consideration are the new environmental laws. Here in Canada you need a stainless steel deck with raised edges (like a big baking pan) to disassemble the bikes on. That way EVERY DROP of oil or other excreetment is collected and can be recycled. Your floors and counter tops must be kept clean and dry and free of oil or petrol.
 

bczygan

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DETROIT! Arsenal of Scrappers
I presume you are referring to Japanese motorcycles. The term "Jap Motorcycle" is a little confusing these days. Jap bikes were 1st made in England in the very early 1900's. The engines were around for another 50 years. "Metric" is a more modern term for Japanese motorcycles these days but it also encompasses european motorcycles too. Metric is the term we use in North America to represent Japanese bikes. Then there are Harley (SAE) and British Bikes (usually Whitworth and Whitworth/SAE thread form).

Here is a new Jap bike:

http://thekneeslider.com/j-a-prestwich-motorcycle/

Regarding your question though, an important consideration are the new environmental laws. Here in Canada you need a stainless steel deck with raised edges (like a big baking pan) to disassemble the bikes on. That way EVERY DROP of oil or other excreetment is collected and can be recycled. Your floors and counter tops must be kept clean and dry and free of oil or petrol.

I bet you can't even use waste oil to keep the weeds and dust down on your gravel drive...
 

kawtoy

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May 12, 2010
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81
Impact philips screwdriver for sure. I buy and sell old bike here (complete, not the parts) and you will use the impact on every bike guaranteed. Imagine a philips screw on the ignition cover for instance. If the bike has points then that cover had been on and off a few dozen times and the owner likely used whatever crappy screwdriver he had laying around. Now the head is all chewed up. The bike has been sitting for 10 years and now that screw is rusted on good. You are not going to get it off with a regular screwdriver but one whack with a dead blow hammer on the impact will free it up.

If you want to freshen the parts up a bit then WD40 on 0000 steel wool works wonders on chrome. Wire wheel on a grinder for and rusty parts or to shine up aluminum on pieces that don't need a perfect finish. A buffing wheel on a bench grinder will make aluminum side covers shine like chrome with enough time spent on it. PM me is you have any specific questions. I have fixed up literally 100's of bikes. Just sold a 75 XS650 to a fellow in Australia and now working on a 74 RD250, one owner and only 2,900 miles. Runs great now and just need to get it cleaned up to sell then on to the next find.
 

skiingman

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Apr 25, 2010
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The Jap is not the issue here. Also, dude, Jap is not the preferred nomenclature. Asian motorcycle, please.
 

DieselSaves

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Big Sky Country
You don't need many tools for bikes, even newer ones. Jap bikes use bunches of 8/10/12/14/17 mm bolts, as well as 4/5/6/8mm hex head bolts. A few torx depending on the year. You could get one of those T-handle wrench sets instead of sockets.

Might want a chain breaker to get chains off. And a couple of large impact sockets for axle nuts and sprocket nuts.

++ on the long T-handles, chain breakers, also the impact drivers.

Motion Pro offers a slew of bike specific tool as well, all pullers you'll need for flywheels and the sockets to pull primary gear nuts.

I'm pretty sure JAP is the way to represent that particular manufacturer.
 

gunner3773

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Feb 7, 2009
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Minnesota
"JIS screwdrivers for all the "+" screws."


+1

I can't tell you the night and day difference in using JIS specific screwdrivers and impact bits. I wish I would have JIS tooled years ago. It would have saved me much aggravation.
 
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ibedayank

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J.A.P. motorcycles use whitworth or british cycle standard threads

made in JAPAN uses metric

VERY differnt tooling and very specialized tooling for some things like removing cluthes and disassembling forks
 

Deskmechanic

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The Jap is not the issue here. Also, dude, Jap is not the preferred nomenclature. Asian motorcycle, please.

In UK English (which I assume the OP speaks), "jap" is not pejorative like it is in American English. It's just short for "Japanese". In American English it's a racial slur.
 

Westly

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^You mean whoever is offended by it isn't offended unless an American says it? That's par for the course :)
 

bareass172

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N'awlins
Been working on bikes almost 15 years now, the above recommendations are spot on. A basic set of sockets, wrenches, and allens will go a long way and an impact driver is a must. Outside of that I'd buy specialty stuff (or make it) as you need it. Motion Pro (and several others) make an all-in-one tool for the large axles:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009D3FPSM/?tag=atomicindus08-20

You'll likely eventually need a 12, 14, 17, 19, 22, and 24mm allen depending on your application. I have a list of common tools I've fabbed myself that may help give you ideas if you run into similar issues on my website here:
http://tech.bareasschoppers.com/resources/handy-motorcycle-tools/

I've made a lot of the larger allen "sockets" by welding nuts or bolts to old sockets. It's cheaper and, in a bind, faster.

Over the years I've supplemented my basic kit with things like crowsfeet wrenches, 1/4" sockets, etc for getting into tight or awkward spots. I have a set of allen wrenches and a set of 1/4" screwdriver allen bits shaved down super short for when I need to get in a tight spot behind something else. Once I get the screwdriver bit in the fastener I can turn it with a 1/4" box end wrench. If I'm not clear about that, I have pictures about half-way down in this write-up:
http://tech.bareasschoppers.com/engine/valve-adjustment-vtx-1800/

The larger size hex stuff I typically keep crescent wrenches around for.

If I can ever help you, shoot me a PM. Good luck! :beer:
 

outdoorsman310

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Aug 23, 2013
Messages
915
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DE
p3 screwdriver, impact driver if possible, impact gun, prybars, get a good screwdriver set. hammers, tire irons, gasket paper, about a 4oz ball peen hammer, gasket maker, razor blades, sandpaper, extensions, test light, wire, crimp connectors that have heat shrink on them, big pliers, and big adjustable wrench, threadlocker, magnet, flywheel puller(I still don't have one) brake grease, dykes, other pliers, kex keyes, dremel/cutoff wheel, torch, wax and penetrating oil, snap ring pliers, threadchasers, tap and die set, oil, many other tools that you might have already. what are you working on? oh, get metric and standard. many people put sae fasteners on the old bikes.
 

outdoorsman310

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ignition wrenches for spokes, zip ties, electrical tape, duct tape, fresh gas and oil, wrenches, sockets, extensions
 

gearhead1

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+1 for the impact you hit with a hammer if you're going to deal with anything that have the Phillips '+' head just as others have posted. I had older bikes (CB400T, SL100, DS125) and there was no way to get the covers off or split cases without one - an absolute must have tool in that case. They used to be $19.99 at Sears.... Good Luck in your venture!
 

Westly

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Jan 17, 2014
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Its a joke. From a movie. You guys need to get out more.

Well, my humble excuse is I'm often forced to watch MSNBC for some seconds until I can get out of ear shot. I figured you were for real.

HA!

The Big Lebowski:
Walter Sobchak: What the **** are you talking about? The chinaman is not the issue here, Dude. I'm talking about drawing a line in the sand, Dude. Across this line, you DO NOT... Also, Dude, chinaman is not the preferred nomenclature. Asian-American, please.
 
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